Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Air Models / October 2003

that is what I have been told , however have yet to try for myself. I only
have experience with the pre painted, and did not like it.

Both Coverite materials use a "soft" adhesive that will let go if reheated.
When using a heat gun, do NOT let the hot air stream hit the seam or it will
release.  Use a good amount of overlap (about 1/2") to help prevent this.  The
prepainted does seem to be worse.

Dr.1 Driver
"There's a Hun in the sun!"

John: Unpainted Coverite is my absolute favorite: Been using it for ages.
Covers well, blends well. However it will be heavyer that the pre painted to
mono cote. I do prime it and then paint.I guess I use it cause it just seem
a bit more realistic.

Denis Winters

On 10/16/2003 3:20 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these
great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:

I did one plane with painted Coverite (will never use it again).  You
will need to use "BalsaRite for Fabric" or Sig "Stix-It" on the airframe
if you want it to adhere RELIABLY (not come off in mid air, etc.).  I
did a scratch built FW-56 (Stosser) with a 65" span in the Coverite.
This was a prototype.  When I did the final model (all the bugs worked
out) I used Colered SolarTex (Balsa USA, etc.).  I did not have to use
anything on the airframe, the paint did not come off on the iron (sock),
it went around corners better than Coverite AND I shaved almost 7 oz off
the total weight by changing to SolarTex.

Unless you have already made the investment in Coverite, try one roll of
SolarTex (the colors match VERY close to Coverite) and I think you will
agree.

As with ANY fabric covered plane, make sure you seal the surface so the
oil and dirt do not get into the pores - I use a thin coat of MinWax
Poly-Acrylic applied with a foam brush.  When it dries you do not see
any brush marks and the surface is sealed.