Hey, all you battery Guru's out there. I have access to a 9ZAP radio
system and I have some concerns about the Battery packs ability to hold
a charge. This pack is the 1200 mah standard pack for the xmitter.
When I charge it to what is considered a full charge, about 18 hours, I
get a high voltage reading of about 10.8 volts (About normal). Then I
let it sit unused for a week and when I turn it on I get a low battery
alarm. The voltage is less than 9.8 volts at this time. All other
transmitters that I have used will hold a charge for much longer, weeks
or even months. I called Hobbico and they said that this was normal,
but I have my doubts. This 9ZAP is approx 1 year old and actually been
used once to fly and several times to set up and adjust the controls on
an experimental UAV.
Any thoughts on this are welcome.
RCFlyr
d:^)
If the low voltage alarm goes off at 9.8 volts I can tell you that is to high.
RCFlyr - 23 Nov 2003 04:23 GMT
oops, lets make that 9.6!
RCFlyr
> If the low voltage alarm goes off at 9.8 volts I can tell you that is to high.
Cycle the battery a few times using an automatic cycler and find out what your
capacity in minutes and mAhs is. On a useable battery you should come up with
greater than 80% of capacity and more than 90 minutes of safe flying time. The
time is an estimate depending on how you stir the sticks, and I hesitated
before giving you a number because others I'm sure will disagree. You could
plot voltage vs. time in fifteen minute increments using an ESV to put a load
on your battery and draw a profile curve to see how your battery is
discharging. Your reading of 10.6 volts after a full charge seems kind of low.
My experience taking readings immediately after a good overnight charge has
been greater than 11 volts. This is however a surface charge and will
dissipate quickly to ~10.5 volts within several minutes under a typical load.
Joe L.
>Subject: Futaba 9ZAP battery pack.
>From: RCFlyr fsvcrv@whro.net
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>RCFlyr
>d:^)
Atwood Don - 23 Nov 2003 16:50 GMT
>Cycle the battery a few times using an automatic cycler and find out what
>your
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>dissipate quickly to ~10.5 volts within several minutes under a typical load.
> Joe L.
Cycling a 9ZAP is not as simple as other Futaba radios equipped with a diode
protection system. Since the diode is actually in the battery pack itself, you
have to remove the pack from the radio, (easily done thru the back battery
cover) then use a jumper thru the battery contacts to bypass the diode or
modify the internal circuit board using instructions from
www.siriuselectronics.com/fut9zd.htm. I do this to all my 9Z radios to enable
quick charging and battery cycling without the need to remove the battery. And
yes, it does bypass the diode protection, so there is additional risk. BE
CAREFUL!!!
Don
There have been three iterations of the 9Z; the 9Z, 9Z WC, and the 9Z WC2.
The first two came stock with a 700 ma battery pack, and the latest, the WC2
comes with a 1100 ma pack. So, if you really have a 1200 ma pack, it is a
replacement from somewhere and not original Futaba.
On all three of my 9Z's the LCD voltage reading with NiCad packs right after
removing the charger is 10.8 - 10.9; they never have shown 11+ as most other
radios seem to. On all three of my 9Z's the low voltage alarm sounds at
about 8.6v. I would think something is wrong with your system if you are
getting a low voltage alarm at voltages above the nominal rating of a eight
cell battery pack (9.6v).
If you are going to do some real battery cycling and testing, you need to
remove the battery case from the transmitter. While holding the case in
front of you, looking at the back of the case (i.e. the face that has the
female plug), with the connector to your right, you need to short the top
two connector holes to bypass the diode. This can be done by modifying an
old Futaba "G" connector pigtail, or Futaba sells a pre made jumper for this
purpose (appx $5). There are schemes around for bending pins in the xmtr,
modifying circuit boards, etc to accomplish this same end, but I do not
recommend going that far. A simple shorting jumper works just fine and
requires no hardware mods.
BTW, the 9Z is a energy hog. Do not expect the same power duration that most
lesser capable transmitters have. I have recently attempted to solve this
problem by installing NiMH packs. If you make this switch, then you will
need charging systems that recognize NiMH cells vice NiCad cells. The jury
is still out on this being a significant improvement. In any case, all my
9Z's will hold a charge for months
I am just wondering that if you are getting an alarm after just one week of
sitting idle, and the voltage is still reading over 9.0v, that your problem
may be the lithium battery that is in there to retain all your programming
data. In any case I doubt that the system is less than a year old. It may
have been sitting on a shelf somewhere for a very long time. The WC2 has
been out for over two years. An easy way to tell which version you have is
the programming buttons around the LCD. The original 9Z had the bottom strip
was gold in color, with the side strips are black. On the 9Z WC, all three
are black in color, and on the 9ZWC2 all three are blue in color. I you
have one of the earlier versions it could actually be ten or more years old.
In that case, you could have easily used up the rated five year lifespan of
the lithium battery.
Good luck,
Tom
> Hey, all you battery Guru's out there. I have access to a 9ZAP radio
> system and I have some concerns about the Battery packs ability to hold
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> RCFlyr
> d:^)
Doug McLaren - 23 Nov 2003 22:13 GMT
| BTW, the 9Z is a energy hog. Do not expect the same power duration that most
| lesser capable transmitters have. I have recently attempted to solve this
| problem by installing NiMH packs. If you make this switch, then you will
| need charging systems that recognize NiMH cells vice NiCad cells. The jury
| is still out on this being a significant improvement.
It is? Last I heard, that jury had already given out it's verdict,
and the verdict was `Big Improvement'.
Going from a 700 mAh pack to an 1800 mAh pack is a massive
improvement, especially for a battery hog like this one. Going from
an 1100 mAh pack is not such a big improvement, but it's still
substantial. My 9c now can fly all day long, where it required a
charge mid-day when it had the factory 600 mA pack.
NiMH cells don't always handle high drain applications as well as
NiCds, but this doesn't qualify -- yes, it's high drain for a
transmitter, but it's still less than an amp or so -- and AA NiMH
cells can handle that just fine.
You also don't need a special charger if you don't have one -- the
standard wall-wart will work fine. It's just that you'll need to
charge longer for a full charge. Up to 3x as long if you're going
from a 600 mA pack to a 1800 mA pack. Do the math, it's not hard.
It's less of an issue with transmitters, as they'll warn you when the
batteries are dying, but you want to *always* make sure your receiver
packs are fully charged when you fly.
(But if you're serious about R/C planes, you'll want a peak charger of
some sort, and when you get one, be sure you get one that can do NiMH
cells.)
Donwsides of NiMH cells? They self discharge faster (but they're
still good for several weeks) and cannot really be safely charged at
rates over 1C. Neither is a big issue in most cases.
NiMH cells are perfect for transmitters. I'm surprised that more
people aren't using them.

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Doug McLaren, dougmc@frenzy.com
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