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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Air Models / February 2004Tower 46
I know this has been discussed already, but there's something not right here. I got no 418 Tower 46 engine off the line, problems and all. I threw it in a box after I just couldn't get it tuned and it crashed a plane of mine. Then I saw the posts on how to fix the stupid thing, so I dug it up, cleaned it out, sealed every single place with gasket sealer, and guess what - the STUPID thing idles with the throttle fully closed!!!!!!! Damn it. Do I throw this thing away for good or is there something I'm missing?? OS rules. Cornelis > the >STUPID thing idles with the throttle fully closed!!!!!!! I got a Webra Speed .40 that does that. It it idles well, transitions well, and runs at full throttle well; don't worry about it. Put your finger over the exhaust to stop it. Dr.1 Driver "There's a Hun in the sun!" >I got no 418 Tower 46 engine off the line, problems and all. I threw it in a >box after I just couldn't get it tuned and it crashed a plane of mine. Then [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >OS rules. Yep, what you missed was all those engines in the past that we were lucky to get to idle. Now when one can't cut it off, they get iritated. I have three Tower 75's and two 46's and I am tickled how well they idle. I'll give up that cutting off for a reliable and slow idle. A rag in the prob at 2K stops it very reliably. Dan Thompson (AMA 32873, EAA 60974, WB4GUK, GROL) remove POST in address for email On 2/19/2004 12:57 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge: DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT THROW ANYTHING IN THE PROP OF A RUNNING ENGINE!!! This is hazardous to EVERYONE in the immediate area. Tower engines are well known for their inability to not shut off with the transmitter. Your best bet is to either: 1st choice, pinch the fuel line closed (if accessible); 2nd choice, put your finger over the exhaust (wear a glove or use a cloth to avoid a burn); 3rd choice, shut the high speed needle valve, 4th choice, replace the front bearing with a sealed bearing. The Tower engines are a decent engine - plenty of power for their size. They do have some "idiosyncrasies", as you have found out. > I know this has been discussed already, but there's something not right > here. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Cornelis I am not even sure a sealed bearing wil work. This is the same crankcase and crankshaft used on the Raptor and that engine never seemed to have the same problem. I would look at the spiral slot on the barrel to see if it is still slightly exposed when the carb is completely shut. > On 2/19/2004 12:57 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these > great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge: [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > > > Cornelis >DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT THROW ANYTHING IN THE PROP OF A RUNNING >ENGINE!!! Thank you, Ted! This act is almost as stupid as stopping it with the sole of your shoe. Not even considering the danger to yourself and onlookers, the OOB prop might literally tear the engine off the mount, or shake the plane apart. Yes, I know there will be many of you who "have done this for ??? years without an accident." To you I say...IT'S STILL STUPID! Dr.1 Driver "There's a Hun in the sun!" > >DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT THROW ANYTHING IN THE PROP OF A RUNNING > >ENGINE!!! [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Dr.1 Driver > "There's a Hun in the sun!" Yep Dr. You're right. The rag ranks right up there with placing a finger extremely close to the back side of that spinning prop. Relying of course on the prop to knock away the finger should it get too close. But you still tempt fate anyway. And I've know people who have been bit good by such a stunt. Stupid is as Stupid does! Chuck If you want to try a sealed front bearing, give me your address and I'll send you one free. Then report back if it helps. > I know this has been discussed already, but there's something not right > here. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Cornelis I have a TH .75 and it does the same thing, can not get it to cut off with barrell completely closed. But it runs very well. I just pinch the fuel line, throttle it up a tad then shuts right off. I lkke the engine, the only other engine i have other then the TH is a OS .40 LA and I was constantly tinkering with it to keep it running well, the TH i never have to fool with it at all, starts right up and runs all day long without a hiccup!.... >If you want to try a sealed front bearing, give me your address and I'll >send you one free. Then report back if it helps. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >> >> Cornelis Hello all, I don't understand with ALL the reliable engines out there and for only a few dollars more.. why go the tower routine? I'm still new to this hobby and have been lurking around here for a little while even i know to stay away from tower anything...... guys at my field AND here -most of the people i know don't mess with that stuff... now for all i know OS(what i use) is a OS with the tower name slapped on it....and naturally some of you will say that they have never had a problem with a tower engine - well to you I say your lucky.. I know of too many folks who say they are not worth the money I'm not taking chances... gig >I know this has been discussed already, but there's something not right >here. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >Cornelis On 2/19/2004 6:03 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge: The last I heard, Tower engines were made by GMS, but used a different carb. I don't know if the GMS has the shutdown problem or not. Perhaps Paul McIntosh can let us know - he is very familiar with the GMS line. For a GOOD, RELIABLE, INEXPENSIVE engine, take a look at the Thunder Tiger. I have a Pro 46 and a Pro 1.20. Once you break them in they are great. They do take a little longer to break in than an OS though. > Hello all, > I don't understand with ALL the reliable engines out there and [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >> >>Cornelis The Tower ball bearing engines are indeed made by GMS. It also appears that the newer, larger Tower engines may be Supertigres. They are using different castings than the GMS line. I have heard reports that some GMS engines will not shut off but I have not experienced it myself. I have run a couple dozen GMS engines of various sizes. > On 2/19/2004 6:03 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these > great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge: [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > >> > >>Cornelis I have a TT Pro 46 and haven't had any problems with it. I bought a GMS 47, and although it hasn't been in the air yet, it kept idling with the throttle shut off until I richened the idle needle a touch. It now dies about 15 seconds after the throttle is closed. Morris > I have heard reports that some GMS engines will not shut off but I have not > experienced it myself. I have run a couple dozen GMS engines of various > sizes. > > > On 2/19/2004 6:03 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these > > great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge: > > For a GOOD, RELIABLE, INEXPENSIVE engine, take a look at the Thunder > > Tiger. >I have heard reports that some GMS engines will not shut off but I have not >experienced it myself. I have run a couple dozen GMS engines of various >sizes. My .47 didn't shut down at idle until I tightened the hex nut on the needle assembly. No big deal. Texas Pete AMA 59376 One of the best running engines I own is a GMS .76 ringed. It does seem to react a bit to changing humidity/temp (did one day at least), but it screams when I want it to, purrs in the mid range, will idle forever, transitions instantly, and, importantly for this thread, shuts off instantly with a flip of the tx switch. Will probably put it on my Killer Kaos whenever I finally get around to building it.  SignatureDan KE6ERB AMA605992 I've heard the screams of the vegetables... http://fubar1.freeservers.com > The Tower ball bearing engines are indeed made by GMS. It also appears that > the newer, larger Tower engines may be Supertigres. They are using [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > > >> > > >>Cornelis The GMS ringed engines are some of the best around. They are the first I ever owned that would idle reliably under 2K right out of the box. > One of the best running engines I own is a GMS .76 ringed. It does seem to > react a bit to changing humidity/temp (did one day at least), but it screams [quoted text clipped - 68 lines] > > > >> > > > >>Cornelis Ya got THAT right! Speaking of GMS engines, you sell bearing sets for them if I recall? I have a .32 that I need to replace the bearings in due to faulty installation. Mine. SignatureDan KE6ERB AMA605992 I've heard the screams of the vegetables... http://fubar1.freeservers.com > The GMS ringed engines are some of the best around. They are the first I > ever owned that would idle reliably under 2K right out of the box. [quoted text clipped - 80 lines] > > > > >> > > > > >>Cornelis Fubar, I have the steel bearings in stock. I am waiting for more 6901 ceramic rear bearings to arrive. > Ya got THAT right! > Speaking of GMS engines, you sell bearing sets for them if I recall? I have [quoted text clipped - 104 lines] > > > > > >> > > > > > >>Cornelis Good deal. Will get in touch with you soon. I think the steel bearings will be fine for my needs. Thanks! SignatureDan KE6ERB AMA605992 I've heard the screams of the vegetables... http://fubar1.freeservers.com > Fubar, > [quoted text clipped - 123 lines] > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >>Cornelis Paul, > GMS engines Any background info on GMS the company? Who ~is~ 'GMS', where are they made, how long they been around, etc??? Their web site says little.... http://www.mecoa.com/gms/ http://www.bestrc.com/gms/index.html http://www.gmsengines.com/ I got a used GMS 2000 - .47 off e-bay. Runs fair, has LOADS of power ( far more than a TH .46 I have), but cuts out/dies/runs hot even set rich. Former owner had put JB Weld around base of carb:-( Air leaks? Crappy carb? -- Jim L. https://sourceforge.net/projects/virtual-access/ Using - Virtual Access(OLR), ZAP 4.5, & WinXP Pro w/SP1 GMS has been around for well over 15 years that I am aware of. They originally just rebadged ASPs but then Jim Goad (Indy RC) got together with a couple others over there and designed the next generation. Those were really good engined at the time but never really sold well. Kinda like early Magnums. The newest of the GMS line are VERY good engines and well worth the money. People who bought the Raptor found out just how good they could be. Unfortunately, Tower made it part of their contract with GMS to not sell that engine to anyone. At least, this is what I was told when I attempted to import lots of them. Although I am no longer selling engines, I still have several GMS sizes on my shelf waiting for suitable airframes. > Paul, > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > https://sourceforge.net/projects/virtual-access/ > Using - Virtual Access(OLR), ZAP 4.5, & WinXP Pro w/SP1 Paul, > The newest of the GMS line are VERY good engines and well worth the money. Hmm, hopefully the brand new one I just ordered for my Ultra Stik 40, will be better than the used one I described above/below. > I got a used GMS 2000 - .47 off e-bay. Runs fair, has LOADS of power ( > far more than a TH .46 I have), but cuts out/dies/runs hot even set > rich. Former owner had put JB Weld around base of carb:-( Air leaks? > Crappy carb? I might try fixes on the used GMS .47 described at http://mywebpages.comcast.net/TipsTricksLinks/tip_gms.htm -- Jim L. https://sourceforge.net/projects/virtual-access/ Using - Virtual Access(OLR), ZAP 4.5, & WinXP Pro w/SP1 One thing to note about GMS engines is that they run just as well on 5% nitro as 10%. If you want to run 10-15% nitro, add one more head shim. Also, this engine is very happy with a 10X6 but easily pulls an 11X6 0r 12X5. > Paul, > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > https://sourceforge.net/projects/virtual-access/ > Using - Virtual Access(OLR), ZAP 4.5, & WinXP Pro w/SP1 air leaks, maybe back plate or head mk > Paul, > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > https://sourceforge.net/projects/virtual-access/ > Using - Virtual Access(OLR), ZAP 4.5, & WinXP Pro w/SP1 > I don't understand with ALL the reliable engines out there and >for only a few dollars more.. why go the tower routine? That's a legitimate question. Over the years I've seen countless modelers buying low-priced stuff, only to have to replace it when it wears out or cannot be made to perform. Let's not be penny-wise and pound-foolish. Buy PROVEN, GOOD equipment that will last you many years, and give you many hours of pleasure, rather than tinkering and frustration. Dr.1 Driver "There's a Hun in the sun!" Amen to that. As I said, OS rules. And it really does. I've had a LOT of OS engines over the years, and I've never had problems with a single one. The extra $$'s are well worth it. > > I don't understand with ALL the reliable engines out there and > >for only a few dollars more.. why go the tower routine? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Dr.1 Driver > "There's a Hun in the sun!" if money is no object, Webra kicks OS's tail. Well, my speed 50 is great anyway. mk > > I don't understand with ALL the reliable engines out there and > >for only a few dollars more.. why go the tower routine? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Dr.1 Driver > "There's a Hun in the sun!" So, when a new product comes out you just ignore it? When does it become "proven" if it is not used? > > I don't understand with ALL the reliable engines out there and > >for only a few dollars more.. why go the tower routine? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Dr.1 Driver > "There's a Hun in the sun!" |
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