I have just finished building an Eagle 2 trainer and I'm ready to install
the servos, receiver, push rods, etc.
My question is this --- the plans call for a 1/16" dia. pushrod for
controlling the throttle and the nose gear. Both push rods are supposed to
run through nylon guide tubes (probably because both of these particular
push rods need to bend a fair amount). Is it better to go with the flexible
type of push rods that are more like the cables on a bike? Its an added
expense, but it would seem to me that they would be easier to install and
not put as much load on the servos (which also means the battery won't be
'working' as hard.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Don Tanner
Oakville, Ontario
Six_O'Clock_High - 05 Apr 2004 03:10 GMT
Sure. Just use a Quick Connector on both ends and the adjustment becomes a
breeze. Make sure you solidly anchor both ends of the nylon tube, or things
will never have a reasonably adjustable geometry.
> I have just finished building an Eagle 2 trainer and I'm ready to install
> the servos, receiver, push rods, etc.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> Don Tanner
> Oakville, Ontario
jeboba - 05 Apr 2004 18:36 GMT
Be sure you do NOT use metal to metal connection at the throttle arm
(engine) If the throttle arm is plastic, then just use a z bend. If it is
metal, you will need to solder on a threaded coupler and use a nylon quick
link or nylon ball link.
> Sure. Just use a Quick Connector on both ends and the adjustment becomes a
> breeze. Make sure you solidly anchor both ends of the nylon tube, or things
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> > Don Tanner
> > Oakville, Ontario
Bob Bauer - 05 Apr 2004 03:14 GMT
I like the flex cable for the throttle with a ball socket at the throttle
arm. You don,t want metal to metal connection at the engine as it can cause
servo jitter. Bob
> I have just finished building an Eagle 2 trainer and I'm ready to install
> the servos, receiver, push rods, etc.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> Don Tanner
> Oakville, Ontario
Fred McClellan - 05 Apr 2004 03:42 GMT
>I have just finished building an Eagle 2 trainer and I'm ready to install
>the servos, receiver, push rods, etc.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>not put as much load on the servos (which also means the battery won't be
>'working' as hard.
Every version of the Eagle has had the same problem. Cheap design,
but it does work.
None of the solid wire push rods flex well at all.
The real issue on the nose gear is that the arm is so short it
requires a goodly bit of lateral travel by the push rod, and the exit
"wound" in the lower fire wall winds up being a slot rather than a
hole. Connecting both rudder and nose wheel to a single servo is
APITA as well.
A better albeit more expensive approach is to install a nose gear
servo and a rudder servo and drive them off one channel via a "Y"
cable.
You can use the lightest Sullivan S507 braided steel cable for the
throttle, just be sure you use nylon fittings on the engine end.
The nose steering will need a heavier Golden Rod.
See the "Pushrod Application Guide" at
http://www.sullivanproducts.com/GoldnRodMainFrame.htm
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
The House Of Balsa Dust
http://home.mindspring.com/~the-plumber
Don and Marion - 05 Apr 2004 23:53 GMT
I always try to use a metal pushrod for the throttle. After I was done
flying one day, I noticed that my plastic throttle pushrod was melted half
way through!
More work...less worry!
Don
> I have just finished building an Eagle 2 trainer and I'm ready to install
> the servos, receiver, push rods, etc.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> Don Tanner
> Oakville, Ontario
Fred McClellan - 06 Apr 2004 04:55 GMT
>I always try to use a metal pushrod for the throttle. After I was done
>flying one day, I noticed that my plastic throttle pushrod was melted half
>way through!
>More work...less worry!
Nothing wrong with a metal push rod on the throttle. I use the
Sullivan braided variety all the time, even on gassers.
RF issues can arise when the connection to the throttle arm itself is
metal, so the experience of many suggests using a nylon clevis or at
least a nylon/plastic ball joint to insulate the metal push rod from
the throttle arm, and thereby avoiding metal-to-metal induced RFI.
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
The House Of Balsa Dust
http://home.mindspring.com/~the-plumber
Don Tanner - 09 Apr 2004 17:40 GMT
Thanks to everyone who responded to my question --- you were very helpful.
Don Tanner
Oakville, Ontario
> >I always try to use a metal pushrod for the throttle. After I was done
> >flying one day, I noticed that my plastic throttle pushrod was melted half
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> The House Of Balsa Dust
> http://home.mindspring.com/~the-plumber