Nice looking airplane with decent hardware included with the kit. The
quality of the wood is also good.
I have one that I'm currently building hopefully I will have time in the
next few weeks to finish the build and then cover it.
John
> Any pros or cons??Thinking about getting one.
> Thanx
Great outfit to work with. Very responsive to questions. Wood is good,
instructions and plans are pretty good. On the down side, the company
assertions may be a little optimistic as regards required building
experience. I'm nearly finished with an AD-1 Skyraider and I've had my
share of problems that arise squarely out of lack of model building
experience...generally not as a consequence of plan shortcomings. With a
couple of fairly minor exceptions, I've no beef with either the plans or
with the building instructions. They seemed to be pretty much what one
could reasonably expect.
This is my 3rd kit since I started, and I've assembled a couple of ARFs and
done a good measure of rebuilding and covering since the first kit (yes,
I've had a number of crashes). To boot, I am retired civil engineer and
when it comes to a variety of do-it-yourself projects, reasonably good with
my hands. Therefore, you might think that maybe I was ready to undertake a
building project whose experience requirements are "basic" (suggested level
of experience that Skyshark lists for this kit).
However, I managed to screw up my first wing (had to buy another) because I
thought I could take the warp out of the leading edge spar by soaking it,
gluing it to the ribs, and pinning it in place until it dried. Wrong!!!
Also, I failed to pin the rib tabs (aft edge) to the building board so
between that and the warped leading edge I managed to come up with a twisted
wing the first time around.
This was my first balsa sheeting project so I thoroughly soaked the sheeting
so as to make it conform easily to the wing ribs and to the fuse formers.
It worked beautifully except the sheeting sags between ribs and formers
instead of forming a smooth, continuous surface like the prototype aircraft
skin. Also, because I intended to cover the sheeting with Koverall followed
by paint, and because I was a little leery of getting too carried away with
sanding 1/32" balsa sheeting, I didn't take enough care in filling/finishing
the sheeting prior to covering with Koverall. Now every little construction
flaw shows up as if magnified.
Finally, the learning curve for finishing a model with dope is very steep.
I've done a lot of smearing paint on house walls and other stuff, but
getting a good finish on my AD has been a major source of frustration. And
yes, I am using a high quality brush (at least it is expensive). So far,
I've put on 1.5 qts to 2 qts. of dope...nitrate based clear to stick the
covering and to fill the weave, and butyrate to finish. I've gone through
a couple of packs of 400 grit sandpaper and now that I'm using thinned
(50-50) dope and fine steel wool, the paint finish is beginning to look like
it should. At the rate I work, my plane will be ready for its maiden flight
in a month or so. I expect it to be a reasonably good flyer. However, in
terms of looks it will be strictly a "stand way, way off" scale model. I
name all my planes...Yellow Peril, Spastic Plastic, Green Weenie... and for
reasons you can imagine this one will be "Lumpy" .
So...if you really know your stuff, or if you're situated where you can
easily avail yourself of advice from experienced builders, go for it.
Otherwise, stand by for a major learning experience. Me? Now that I'm near
the end, I'm lusting after either the SBD or the TBM. Like I say, good kit,
good folks to deal with.
Good flying,
Jerry
> Nice looking airplane with decent hardware included with the kit. The
> quality of the wood is also good.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> > Any pros or cons??Thinking about getting one.
> > Thanx
Ted Campanelli - 23 Apr 2004 15:15 GMT
On 4/22/2004 9:37 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these
great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:
The next time around, try using .5 or .75 oz fiberglass cloth applied
with a WATER BASE polyurethane (MinWax PolyCrylic). Fill the weave with
a second coat of poly and micro balloons and wet sand with 320/400. For
a finish I use (with excellent results) latex paint sprayed on and clear
coated with water base poly. Very light finish (compared to dope), easy
to use, NO FUMES, water clean up AND if you don't like the finish, just
wipe it off with a damp cloth and redo it.
> Great outfit to work with. Very responsive to questions. Wood is good,
> instructions and plans are pretty good. On the down side, the company
[quoted text clipped - 62 lines]
>> > Any pros or cons??Thinking about getting one.
>> > Thanx