I recently converted a weedeater Ryobi 33cc to an airplane engine. The
conversion went smoothly and it started and ran (past tense) like a charm.
After about one hour of accumulated time on the test bench (32:1 break-in
mixture) it now will only run at half choke at full throttle!! It dies at
no choke but I can throttle it down. When I go from half choke to no choke,
it revs up to about 6,200 RPM (on a 18x10 Zinger) and then dies out. This
model Ryobi has only one needle valve for the high speed mixture. I have
adjusted it to no end and still get the same die off.
I'm pretty sure it is a fuel problem but I'm afraid to tear into the Walbro
carb. Any suggestions?
>I'm pretty sure it is a fuel problem but I'm afraid to tear into the Walbro
>carb. Any suggestions?
Do a Deja searcjh for my thread "Zenoah G-23 Help". Also my reply "Zenoah G-23
Help - Thanks" It was a similar problem.
Rebuilding a Walbro-type carb is easy. Buy a reduild kit and take it slow when
you open it. There are little parts that can easily get lost. Note which way
things go before you take them apart. Be sure the filter screens are clean.
Dirty gas is the bane of these engines.
Dr.1 Driver
"There's a Hun in the sun!"
Marlowe - 30 Jun 2004 22:34 GMT
Good suggestion and a lot of info on your past thread, but most of it
pertains to running too large a prop. I did learn a lot about fuel mixes
though. I think your suggestion about disassembling the Walbro carb and
cleaning is the possible solution. Do I need a rebuild kit just to clean
it?
> >I'm pretty sure it is a fuel problem but I'm afraid to tear into the Walbro
> >carb. Any suggestions?
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> Dr.1 Driver
> "There's a Hun in the sun!"
Dr1Driver - 01 Jul 2004 02:03 GMT
> Do I need a rebuild kit just to clean
>it?
Not unless you open and clean the filter screens. They are under soft metal
covers that must be replaced with new ones when removed.
My problem was fuel draw related, too. It wouldn't draw enough fuel to pull
the load I had on it. I removed the bronze filter from the tank, the Final
Filter from the line, and the Dubro filler from the line. It picked up 200 RPM
even on the too-large prop. As my chemical engineer wife reminded me; any
resistance in the supply line, including sharp bends, increases the pressure
drop
.
Dr.1 Driver
"There's a Hun in the sun!"
Sound like a fuel starvation problem. I'd check the fuel delivery system
from the tank to the needle assembly. It sounds like a clogged fuel screen
or the needle jet has a blockage of some sort.
Jim W
> I recently converted a weedeater Ryobi 33cc to an airplane engine. The
> conversion went smoothly and it started and ran (past tense) like a charm.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> I'm pretty sure it is a fuel problem but I'm afraid to tear into the Walbro
> carb. Any suggestions?
Thanks for all the good suggestions from DR and BC. As suspected it was a
fuel problem. I took off the cover to the Walbro carb and discovered that
the fuel screen had a lot of crap in it. I cleaned it out and then blew air
through the lines and the needle valve port. I then went to my tank and
found the rubber stopper was dissolving from the gas environment! What kind
of tanks are you suppose to use for gas? I then hastily built a tank from a
small plastic water bottle and within minutes I had the Ryobi purring like a
kitten. Top RPM 6,300 and idle 2,500 RPM on an 18x10 prop. Back to its old
sweet self.
In addition to my question about tank type, what about an inline fuel
filter? I have one for my glow engine and I will check if it is metal with
no internal rubber. And how about the sintered clunk? Oh little
grasshopper, there is so much to learn.
> I recently converted a weedeater Ryobi 33cc to an airplane engine. The
> conversion went smoothly and it started and ran (past tense) like a charm.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> I'm pretty sure it is a fuel problem but I'm afraid to tear into the Walbro
> carb. Any suggestions?
Steve - 01 Jul 2004 04:32 GMT
Check with the LHS for a stopper made for Gas and also line for gas The
gas will dissolve the lines used for glow fuel as well
> Thanks for all the good suggestions from DR and BC. As suspected it was a
> fuel problem. I took off the cover to the Walbro carb and discovered that
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> Walbro
> > carb. Any suggestions?
Carrell - 01 Jul 2004 04:42 GMT
Thanks for all the good suggestions from DR and BC. As suspected it was a
fuel problem. I took off the cover to the Walbro carb and discovered that
the fuel screen had a lot of crap in it. I cleaned it out and then blew air
through the lines and the needle valve port. I then went to my tank and
found the rubber stopper was dissolving from the gas environment! What kind
of tanks are you suppose to use for gas? I then hastily built a tank from a
small plastic water bottle and within minutes I had the Ryobi purring like a
kitten. Top RPM 6,300 and idle 2,500 RPM on an 18x10 prop. Back to its old
sweet self.
In addition to my question about tank type, what about an inline fuel
filter? I have one for my glow engine and I will check if it is metal with
no internal rubber. And how about the sintered clunk? Oh little
grasshopper, there is so much to learn.
====================================
Some tanks come with a stopper that's supposed to be compatible with glow
fuel or gas; others require you to buy a gas stopper.
Here's a link to tanks on Tower's site
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=QCA&P=0
Find the brand/size/shape you're interested in. The part notes will tell
you if a special stopper is needed.
Fuel tank stoppers
http://www.towerhobbies.com/listings/cat-cat-p2.html
Dr1Driver - 01 Jul 2004 12:10 GMT
> what about an inline fuel
>filter?
I took everything out of the gas supply line on my plane. I filter the gas
twice coming out of the supply can, so it's clean when it goes into the tank.
Dr.1 Driver
"There's a Hun in the sun!"
Dr1Driver - 01 Jul 2004 12:09 GMT
> What kind
>of tanks are you suppose to use for gas?
You need a standard tank with a "gas" neoprene stopper. This is black rubber,
not grey or brown like glow stoppers.
Dr.1 Driver
"There's a Hun in the sun!"
Mike R. - 02 Jul 2004 04:22 GMT
> Thanks for all the good suggestions from DR and BC. As suspected it was a
> fuel problem. I took off the cover to the Walbro carb and discovered that
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> no internal rubber. And how about the sintered clunk? Oh little
> grasshopper, there is so much to learn.
You may have your problem come back to haunt you: When you
blew air into carb to clean it its possible that some trapped dirt may
have worked its way up into a chamber just below a welch plug. This
dirt will lay there and depending if the passage is for metering
fuel/air the dirt can work its way back into that passage. You would
not want this to happen when your plane is in the air. I would say you
have a 50/50 chance of nothing or something bad happening. When you
give a carb a thorough rebuild; you remove the welch plugs and replace
them with new ones. Now you have 100% in your favor of nothing bad
happening. I replied on your other post explaining about welch plugs.
I dont want to scare you, but just trying to help you. I have been
in the small engine service feild for 15 yrs and I am wroking at
cemetery maintaining there equipment....also digging graves, trmming,
cutting, ect, ect ,ect....
Out of those 15 yrs 4 yrs I raced go-karts (yamaha kt100s/ yamaha
heavy class).....I learned from the best and did my own engine
work......have a nice trophy collection and among those trophies I
have my championship points trophy ( stroking the ego alittle :-)
).....so i know what I am doing. Please feel free to email if you need
any further help.
Good luck
Mike
A grasshopper???? Are you teathering that plane down at the feild
like the fullsize at the airport??? :-)
> I recently converted a weedeater Ryobi 33cc to an airplane engine. The
> conversion went smoothly and it started and ran (past tense) like a charm.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> I'm pretty sure it is a fuel problem but I'm afraid to tear into the Walbro
> carb. Any suggestions?
Tear into it rebuild it....make sure you remove any welch plugs
and after removal soak and clean the pi%@ out of it then put the new
kit in; otherwise if you just throw a rebuild kit in it your wasting
your money and time. Check the "pop off" and adjust for performance.
Good luck
Mike
Marlowe - 01 Jul 2004 04:34 GMT
Mike thanks for the info, but you lost me on some of the terminology. Welch
plugs and pop off are parts I'm not familiar with. We have our monthly R/C
club meeting this Friday and we have some members who are gas knowledgeable,
so I will be asking them many questions. If you see my earlier reply, you
will note that I did a quick and dirty (bad choice of words) carb and fuel
system cleanup and now its humming. I do want to be more gas savvy so that
I can overhaul the Walbro carb in the future.
My next project is building a PIC based electronic CDI ignition. I've got
all the hardware together and tonight I start on the software.
> > I recently converted a weedeater Ryobi 33cc to an airplane engine. The
> > conversion went smoothly and it started and ran (past tense) like a charm.
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Good luck
> Mike
Six_O'Clock_High - 01 Jul 2004 05:51 GMT
> Mike thanks for the info, but you lost me on some of the terminology. Welch
> plugs and pop off are parts I'm not familiar with. We have our monthly R/C
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> My next project is building a PIC based electronic CDI ignition. I've got
> all the hardware together and tonight I start on the software.
#1. Keep us apraised of the results of your CDI system. Be aware the C&H
Ignitions are sold for that very engine.
#2. Get some Tygon line for your gas and a gas stopper (Dubro makes a
change out gas stopper that will need a clunk [sintered bronze]) for gas.
Silicon will melt and the junk that 'weeps' off it may be part of what is
giving you a problem with the carb.
Mike R. - 02 Jul 2004 02:43 GMT
> Mike thanks for the info, but you lost me on some of the terminology. Welch
> plugs and pop off are parts I'm not familiar with. We have our monthly R/C
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> My next project is building a PIC based electronic CDI ignition. I've got
> all the hardware together and tonight I start on the software.
The welch plugs are small round covers with either an
indentation or slight bulge made from alum,steel or brass. When the
manufacturere has to drill a passageway connecting another on the
outside of the carb or in he has to cover that hole.....so he uses
welch plugs.
"pop off" is the measurement in psi that the inlet needle will
open.
Check out some small engine supply companies.....they have special
tools for removal of welch plugs and checking "pop off"....there not
expensive.
Feel free to email if you need any more info
Mike