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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Air Models / August 2004



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Beginner Question - Where to Solder Capacitors to Elec. Motor

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Gerald Dunn - 03 Aug 2004 00:34 GMT
I'm building an electric model - the Graupner Tipsy. I have the speed
280 motor and the GS100 controller. It came with 2 capacitors. Where
do I solder the capacitors onto the motor:
- Do I solder both of them accross the two leads of the motor
- Or should I solder each capacitor from one lead on the motor to the
motor housing

Thanks for your help!

Matt Dunn
gdunnjr@yahoo.com
Doug McLaren - 03 Aug 2004 00:51 GMT
| I'm building an electric model - the Graupner Tipsy. I have the speed
| 280 motor and the GS100 controller. It came with 2 capacitors. Where
| do I solder the capacitors onto the motor:
| - Do I solder both of them accross the two leads of the motor
| - Or should I solder each capacitor from one lead on the motor to the
| motor housing

The latter.  

Solder one between the positive terminal and the motor case, and
solder the other between the negative terminal and the motor case.

This way, they'll reduce RF noise generated between any of these three
connections.  If you just do them from terminal to terminal, they'll
help, but not as much.

Signature

Doug McLaren, dougmc@frenzy.com
Meet the Girls with the Thermo-Nuclear Navels!
  -- Dr. Goldfoot and the Girl Bombs (1966)

Bill Sheppard - 03 Aug 2004 02:40 GMT
Matt,
            As a veteran Tipsy driver of 2½ years, I can give you a
couple of tips.<g>  The plane is incredibly fragile and you'll snap the
tailboom off in the first less-than-perfect touchdown. To be 'landing
survivable' at all, the fuz must be beefed up from nose to tail with CF
tape and/or packing tape (I use Scotch brand clear packing tape). Also,
the wing must be similarly reinforced or it will soon develop stress
cracks right at the root from flexing.
              And by all means get rid of that rediculous folding prop
(it has a shallow pitch of 2.3"), and go to a prop of at least 3" pitch.
It'll make a world of difference in performance, and the plane will
maintain level flight at a much lower throttle setting. It will even
ROG, which was impossible with the old prop. I finally settled on the
Gunther 4.9 X 4.3, commonly known as the 'Wingo' prop (also used on
Zagis). The motor is the stock 280.  
               Previous to the prop change, I had assumed a higher
pitch would stress the motor too much, and received dire warnings to
that effect from the folks on EZone. But the exact opposite has been the
case. So far the motor shows no signs of stress, and is barely warm to
the touch after 45 minute flights. With the old prop, max run time was
only a half hour. Run time is substantially _increased_ with a decent
prop match.
               The caveat is to not use high throttle except in short
bursts, such as ROGing, accelerating to loop (yeah, it will loop from
level flight now), and getting out of tight spots. I can confidently
launch into turbulence I would never have dreamed of flying in before.
The plane just powers right thru the turbulence, and flys in winds up to
12-15 mph.
                With the aforementioned mods, the plane suffers no
breakage and flies great on the stock motor. i still can't understand
Graupner's rationale for using (and continuing to use) that rediculous
prop. To fly the plane at all, it had to run at very high RPM, wailing
away loudly like a banshee. It must've been wasting additional power
just in radiated sonic energy. The new prop just emits a benign whirr.      
     
        Bill(oc)            
Hawkey - 03 Aug 2004 22:32 GMT
I suggest that you do as stated in other reply, AND solder a capacitor
across the terminals as well.
This is reckoned good practice to virtually eliminate radiated
interference -:)
> I'm building an electric model - the Graupner Tipsy. I have the speed
> 280 motor and the GS100 controller. It came with 2 capacitors. Where
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> Matt Dunn
> gdunnjr@yahoo.com
 
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