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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Air Models / April 2006stripped muffler bolt
Hi all, I just purchased a used OS .46 SF on eBay last week, and it ran great for the first 5 tankfuls or so, but one of the muffler bolts came loose in-flight and the engine died from lack of tank backpressure. Put the bolt back in, tightened both, and it happened again next flight. This time, I noticed that about half the threads and some locking compound came off with the bolt. Now it won't tighten at all, of course. What are my options? Thanks. Clean out the hole, tap it oversize and fit a fatter bolt. > Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > What are my options? Thanks. That was my first inclination, but the hole through the engine for the bolt doesn't look like there's much room for error if i drill it out for a larger bolt. > Clean out the hole, tap it oversize and fit a fatter bolt. > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> >> What are my options? Thanks. > That was my first inclination, but the hole through the engine for the > bolt doesn't look like there's much room for error if i drill it out for a > larger bolt. I have TT49 pros and I tap the mufflers and drill out the engine to take 6-32. then I engrave 6-32 on the muffler. You could buy a Macs muffler. mk I just stripped a bolt-on engine muffler holes, dern that!(mvvs.91) > I just purchased a used OS .46 SF on eBay last week, (deleted) one of the muffler bolts came loose (deleted) I noticed that about half the threads and some locking compound came off with the bolt. (deleted) What are my options?< Stanley, It's easiest to just replace the muffler. You can either order a new one from OS -or- order the replacement muffler for a Tower Hobbies 46. The muffler is slightly larger, and slightly louder, than the stock OS muffler. It is also less expensive (under $20.00), and your motor will make more power with it, than with the stock muffler. Ken You could helicoil it if there's enough material around the stripped hole. The repaired threads will be much stronger than the original one. > > You could helicoil it if there's enough material around the stripped hole. > The repaired threads will be much stronger than the original one. Ended up buying longer screws and locknuts. Works great now. What's "helicoil" ??? >> You could helicoil it if there's enough material around the stripped >> hole. The repaired threads will be much stronger than the original one. > > Ended up buying longer screws and locknuts. Works great now. What's > "helicoil" ??? http://www.paintain.co.uk/helicoil_kits/helicoil_usage.htm this might be easier than trying to explain >>> You could helicoil it if there's enough material around >>> the stripped hole. The repaired threads will be much [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > http://www.paintain.co.uk/helicoil_kits/helicoil_usage.htm > this might be easier than trying to explain Helicoil works great for larger holes. I think the original post was regarding a carburetor screw, which are small diameter (like 5 mm and smaller). For smaller holes, sometimes it is just better to retap and use a slightly larger diameter bolt. Making a deeper hole helps if the situation permits without compromising function or strength. I have also replaced a stripped out small metric threaded hole by retapping and using a slightly larger SAE bolt.  SignatureHPT You drill and tap the hole to a larger size. The helicoil is like a spring that threads down into the larger drilled and tapped hole that brings it back down to the original size. I have never done this to model engines but it worked bitchin for the exhaust header studs on my '84 Toyota 22R engine. Never came loose the whole time I had that truck. >>> You could helicoil it if there's enough material around the stripped >>> hole. The repaired threads will be much stronger than the original one. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > http://www.paintain.co.uk/helicoil_kits/helicoil_usage.htm > this might be easier than trying to explain |
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