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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Air Models / September 2006question about fabric covering
I have a question about fabric covering, for those of you who have experience in such matters. This isn't about model airplanes, but I can't think of anybody who would know more about this topic than model airplane builders. I am starting a harmonica amplifier company, and I'm considering different ways to finish the speaker cabinets. I want something durable, good looking and reasonably easy to apply. I have an amplifier that I built for myself which I covered with an old bedsheet and clear butyrate dope. You can see photos of it here: http://www.kcnet.com/~robbie/bluesky1.jpg http://www.kcnet.com/~robbie/bluesky2.jpg http://www.kcnet.com/~robbie/bluesky3.jpg This project turned out very nicely. It is exactly what I had envisioned when I started, a finished surface where you can see the pattern in the fabric through a clear glaze, just like an airplane. The only problem I experienced was that I had a lot of trouble getting the edges to stick to the wood where they went around corners. I ended up cutting most of them off rather than rolling them over the edges. In fact, you can see the uncovered wood edge next to the metal chassis in the top view. This problem was especially annoying whenever I got an edge to stay down and the next coat made it lift back up. That's one of the biggest hassle factors with butyrate dope, as far as I can tell. But all in all, it turned out well because I painted the dope through moistened cotton, and it tightened up and made a nice finish. The large surfaces came through with no bubbles at all. However, I am looking for something better for my intended application. (By the way, I plan to offer plain black to the general public, unless a customer orders something more flashy. The blue amp was fun, and I get a lot of comments.) So far I've tried a few other methods. I tried polyurethane varnish, which was bad because it isn't thick enough to keep things held in place before it dries. I put the fabric in place with a tack coat of spray contact cement, but the polyurethane loosened it. I also tried polyester resin, which was not good at all. The finish is rough and ugly, it doesn't hold the edges down well, and it cures too fast. Then I decided to try plain old thinned white glue, topped off with a few coats of something waterproof. I thought I was on to something good because the fabric stretched out nicely and looked like it had been put on by a pro...until it dried. I was amazed to find the next morning that it had bubbled extensively. That took me by surprise. Anyway, now that you're caught up with what I've tried so far, what would an old fashioned model airplane builder use to stick bedsheet-type cotton fabric onto an amplifier cabinet with no wrinkles and a nice glazed finish? I don't necessarily want to fill the weave. I just want it to stand up to abuse. I want a musician to feel comfortable about dragging it in and out of car trunks and nightclubs, and I want it to handle the occasional spilled beer or cigarette burn. On a scale of one to ten (or should it be one to eleven?) I'd give the butyrate dope a 9 for finish and a 7 for ease of application. It would have scored a bit higher if the edges hadn't lifted. Can you recommend something better? Water based acrylic? Water based polyurethane? Epoxy glaze? I know that this type of finish used to be quite common, because my old saxophone cases are wood with a doped fabric finish, and they did a nice job. These cases date back to the 1920s and 1930s. Do you suppose they used nitrate dope? Would a base coat of nitrate make the butyrate method work any better? > ... what >would an old fashioned model airplane builder use to stick bedsheet-type >cotton fabric onto an amplifier cabinet with no wrinkles and a nice >glazed finish? I'd try an epoxy resin. Epoxies come in a multitiude of varieties. There is a pretty thin kind with long pot life that's good for gluing fiberglass to balsa wood. Problems: -- Would epoxy stain the cotton a different color? I see a slight yellowish tinge to all the epoxies I use. -- Getting a nice, even coat. Use an epoxy spreader or old credit cards or some other kind of scraper to distribute the epoxy evenly. This works moderately well with fiberglass on a properly prepared substrate. If I leave dings in the balsa or lite ply, they tend to fill with epoxy, of course. I don't know whether the scraper method would work with cotton. > ... Water based acrylic? Water based polyurethane? Epoxy glaze? A friend told me he had success with water based polyurethane and fiberglass. Once the first coat dries, it should be pretty impervious to the next coat (pure speculation). >I know that this type of finish used to be quite common, because my old >saxophone cases are wood with a doped fabric finish, and they did a nice >job. These cases date back to the 1920s and 1930s. Do you suppose they >used nitrate dope? Would a base coat of nitrate make the butyrate >method work any better? I never can remember the rule for which of those comes first. I always have to look it up when I fantasize about using dope. Perhaps some day I will actually try dope again and get the rule straight. One thing with dope: I think it dries from the outside in and takes a long time to dry completely. You might have better success just by giving the parts more time to dry. I don't know nothin' 'bout gettin' the fabric to fit nicely around corners. :o( Marty > I never can remember the rule for which of those comes first. > I always have to look it up when I fantasize about using dope. > Perhaps some day I will actually try dope again and get the > rule straight. Nitrate was the first dope, used on World War I aircraft. It has great adhesive strength and is generally good stuff, but it is also highly flammable. Then butyrate came along and solved the fire problem, but it doesn't adhere quite as well. On a large surface such as an amp this isn't a problem, but you want nitrate adhesive quality on wing ribs, etc. The next generation of airplanes used nitrate first, then butyrate on top. The other reason why is because the solvent in butyrate will soften nitrate to make a good bond, but you can't put nitrate over butyrate, not that you would want to. > One thing with dope: I think it dries from the outside in and > takes a long time to dry completely. You might have better > success just by giving the parts more time to dry. It does. It's not a chemical cure, it's a solvent evaporation cure. More drying time is probably a good suggestion. I can't smell the amp any more, but it stunk for a couple of weeks after I started using it to play at nightclubs. It really stunk up the garage while I was finishing it. (detached garage, fortunately) You're right that I should have waited longer between coats. Maybe that's my answer right there, although I recall that I had edge lifting problems on the first coat. Thanks for your other tips. The guy who is building my cabinets for me told me to try acrylic base that artists use on canvas. It's a water-based, thick, milky compound that forms polymer chains when the water evaporates. >It does. It's not a chemical cure, it's a solvent evaporation cure. >More drying time is probably a good suggestion. I can't smell the amp >any more, but it stunk for a couple of weeks after I started using it to >play at nightclubs. Ah--that may be a clue. I think I read that if you can still smell the solvent, the dope is not yet fully dry. >It really stunk up the garage while I was finishing >it. I love the smell of dope, at least in small quantitities. > I had edge lifting problems on the first coat. >Thanks for your other tips. The guy who is building my cabinets for me >told me to try acrylic base that artists use on canvas. It's a >water-based, thick, milky compound that forms polymer chains when the >water evaporates. Sounds like good stuff. If you want to stick with the dope, you might try putting a base coat on first, then come back with the doped cotton. Good luck--and let us know how it turns out. The blue amp certainly is eye-catching. Marty > > ... what > >would an old fashioned model airplane builder use to stick bedsheet-type [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > -- Would epoxy stain the cotton a different color? I see a slight > yellowish tinge to all the epoxies I use. Tinting is not a problem. I plan to use black or brown fabric. Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge: To get the fabric to stick to corners, you might want to try SIG "StixIt". This is lightly brushed on the area(s) you want adhered and let it dry. Then position the covering where you want it and apply heat to activate the adhesive. An iron set to about 225 - 250 degrees will activate it. The adhesive is quite strong. On models I have had the wood fibers separate when trying to remove the covering. If you do need to remove the covering, just apply heat again while keeping a tension on the covering. If the covering material overlaps itself, you will need to apply it to the overlap area. I have also had excellent results (again on models ) using 1/2 oz (0.5 oz) - 3/4 oz (0.75 oz) fiberglass cloth and Minwax "Polycrylic". I normally adhere the fiberglass with a thin coat of poly, working from the center of the piece out toward the edges. When dry (about 30 - 45 minutes), I then apply a second coat of poly. If you will be painting the item, the weave can be easily filled with a mixture of 1 part microballoons to 4 or 5 parts of poly. Sand when dry and then apply a final coat of poly. Be careful when sanding as it is easy to sand right through the fiberglass. Water base polyurethane does not yellow with age and is compatible with almost every type of paint. It will provide protection against the occasional beer spill, but not against cigarette burns. This type of finish has about 60% of the strength/hardness of a fiberglass resin type finish, but it is easier to apply, has no fumes and is a soap and water clean up. > I have a question about fabric covering, for those of you who have > experience in such matters. This isn't about model airplanes, but I [quoted text clipped - 58 lines] > used nitrate dope? Would a base coat of nitrate make the butyrate > method work any better? > Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not > so great) words of knowledge: [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > the covering. If the covering material overlaps itself, you will need > to apply it to the overlap area. Assuming that I use StixIt or Balsarite to stick the edges down, which is an excellent suggestion, can I apply dope right over it? How about water based polyurethane or acrylic? Has anybody tried this? I'll try it myself, but if somebody else has already done it that saves me a lot of trouble. > I have also had excellent results (again on models ) using 1/2 oz (0.5 > oz) - 3/4 oz (0.75 oz) fiberglass cloth and Minwax "Polycrylic". I [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > fiberglass resin type finish, but it is easier to apply, has no fumes > and is a soap and water clean up. The major idea here is to choose a cloth that has the correct look, and glaze it on so I can see the cloth. It is a classic look, like the old saxophone cases I mentioned, so I'm assuming that the blues community will embrace it. I think fiberglass is out, in favor of black cotton cloth. The problem with this is the bubbling tendency that you run into with cotton. I wonder if the problem I had with white glue was because although wet cotton would shrink tight, maybe the glue wanted to shrink more. The butyrate didn't have this problem, and if the water based products that you are referring to don't shrink, maybe they wouldn't bubble either. >> Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not >> so great) words of knowledge: [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > it myself, but if somebody else has already done it that saves me a lot > of trouble. I have used an acrylic clear wood varnish to hold silkk and glass cloth to foam. Worked well. Comes up hard as glass...starts milky dries clear. > The major idea here is to choose a cloth that has the correct look, and > glaze it on so I can see the cloth. It is a classic look, like the old > saxophone cases I mentioned, so I'm assuming that the blues community > will embrace it. Use denim for them. :-) >I think fiberglass is out, in favor of black cotton > cloth. The problem with this is the bubbling tendency that you run into [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > products that you are referring to don't shrink, maybe they wouldn't > bubble either. I think that if you can glue the edges down with something and then shrink the cloth, an acrylic over the top will stick it and fill the weave. Vacuum bagging is potentially useful too..put it in a plastic bag and remove the air..until it all sets. That works better on epoxy that sets rather than dries tho. Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge: A polyester fabric, stretched taut when initially fastening/gluing it down can be shrunk even tighter by using heat (a clothes iron will work fine for your applications ). You will need to play with the heat setting to find what temperature will shrink the cloth without burning/melting it, or over shrinking it. I suggest starting at about 225 degrees and work your way up in 5 degree increments to find the best temperature for whichever fabric you choose. Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge: >> Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not >> so great) words of knowledge: [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > it myself, but if somebody else has already done it that saves me a lot > of trouble. Yes. You can apply dope over it. The StixIt is a heat activated adhesive. I have used butyrate dope, acrylic enamel, acrylic lacquer, Rustoleum, Krylon and latex paints on fabric adhered with StixIt with no problems. Remember, you want a thin coating of the StixIt on the wood. If you put a heavy coat on you will see some bubbles when it has dried (the bubbles can be sanded off ) and the bubbles MAY cause some small bumps in the fabric. >snip I have used common Baking Soda mixed with the water base polyurethane to fill the weave it sands easily and leaves a smooth surface. I was surprised the first time I did this and after applying the Monokote covering the fiberglassed section is barely visiable, mainly due to the slight color difference between the bare wood and the fiberglassed section. Roy > Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not > so great) words of knowledge: [quoted text clipped - 80 lines] >> used nitrate dope? Would a base coat of nitrate make the butyrate >> method work any better?  SignatureUsing Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Robbie and Laura Reynolds Wrote: > I have a question about fabric covering, for those of you who have > experience in such matters. Hi Robbie . . . long time no yak. You might consider BalsaRite brushed directly on the wood. Works quit nicely for bonding fabric to just about anything. The BalsaRite will not fill the weave, and you can iron it on all edge and corners and then use a heat gun to shrink it everywhere else (o just iron it all over). Most fabric stores have polyester in every color under the sun, plus few dozen truly awful prints. The only 'down side' is that fabric stor polyester is not shrink controlled the way aircraft coverings are, s you could have as much as 35 - 40% shrink, depending on the fabric d jour. Sometimes the BalsaRite looks lumpy in the can and goes on lumpy. No to worry, under heat the stuff flows out and the lumps disappear. Sig Stix-It works the same way -- the-plumbe > Robbie and Laura Reynolds Wrote: > > I have a question about fabric covering, for those of you who have [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > you could have as much as 35 - 40% shrink, depending on the fabric du > jour. That's a good idea. We had a day devoted to Stitts Polyfabric in my aircraft classes when I got my A&P license. It's a polyester fabric with polymer dope to match. Can you use butyrate on it? I happen to have a gallon can of butyrate. Robbie and Laura Reynolds Wrote: > the-plumber wrote:[color=blue] > > > That's a good idea. We had a day devoted to Stitts Polyfabric in my > aircraft classes when I got my A&P license. It's a polyester fabric > with polymer dope to match. Can you use butyrate on it? I happen to > have a gallon can of butyrate. Not sure about the butyrate, but the PolyTak would serve nicely. -think- Stitts likes dope, but you'd want to check on it -- the-plumbe > Robbie and Laura Reynolds Wrote: > > the-plumber wrote:[color=blue] [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Not sure about the butyrate, but the PolyTak would serve nicely. I > -think- Stitts likes dope, but you'd want to check on it. The Stits process requires (on certified airplanes) that its own Poly-Tak be used. I have used both it and dope and contact cement, and the Poly-Tak is superior to the other adhesives. It's similar to styrene model airplane cement (judging by its odor, speed of setting, the mess it makes on your fingers, and for some, the heady buzz one can get in confined spaces) and is extremely strong. Heat-shrinking can pull the fabric loose from some cements, but not Poly-Tak unless you overheat the glued area itself. Dan > I have a question about fabric covering, for those of you who have > experience in such matters. This isn't about model airplanes, but I [quoted text clipped - 52 lines] > higher if the edges hadn't lifted. Can you recommend something better? > Water based acrylic? Water based polyurethane? Epoxy glaze? Well I used to design amplification equipment and teh cabninets for a small company some years back - we used leatherette of course - and the way we ended up doing it was this. I can;t say it will work as well with an open ave type finish First of all the cheap way to finish large surfaces was with PVA white glue in presses. Cheaper stuff was done this way and then cut later and we edged the stuff with alumnium angle to cover the joins For actual amp cabinets, we would wrap a striop around the case with PVA, and leave it. Once dry the girls then had the job of finishing the edges. Only one glue really worked - a rubber latex adhesive that smelt of ammonia. Copydex comes closest in 'brands' and I have seen similar glues in builders merchants. Its more or less a water based contact glue. Solvent based contact also worked, but was too expensive for production. I have to say that something like Balsaloc, or even ironing fabric onto drieed PVA may work for you. My worry is that the glues will contaminate the weave and you won;t be able to show it off.. If possible, just stretch it over and dope it down? > I know that this type of finish used to be quite common, because my old > saxophone cases are wood with a doped fabric finish, and they did a nice > job. These cases date back to the 1920s and 1930s. Do you suppose they > used nitrate dope? Would a base coat of nitrate make the butyrate > method work any better? > If possible, just stretch it over and dope it down? Well, that was the original idea, and it looks very good on the one that I already did this way. The only thing keeping me from being completely enthusiastic about it was the edge lifting problem, and if I can solve that with Balsarite I think I may have the problem licked. But I have a question about Balsarite. On the blue amp I moistened the cotton to make it stretch out, and I applied the dope right through the wet cloth. It tightened itself just like it's supposed to, which I thought was very exciting because I never actually did this on an airplane before. If I'm going to stick the edges down with Balsarite, I'm wondering if I can have the cloth wet, or if it needs to be dry. If it's going to be dry, I'd probably have to Balsarite the whole cabinet to prevent lifting. Come to think of it, maybe I could iron one edge down, spritz the whole thing, and the iron would dry the other edges as I stick them down. I'm getting excited again. I can't wait to try this. > > If possible, just stretch it over and dope it down? > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > I stick them down. I'm getting excited again. I can't wait to try > this. As one with experience in aircraft fabric covering, I would use the aircraft-grade polyester fabric. It's unshrunken, and you would glue down the edges first (use Stits Poly-tak or similar, which hardens quickly and is really strong) and then iron the fabric to shrink it tight. It's the same process we have to use on airplanes, which also have plenty of fairly sharp corners around the edges of end ribs, firewalls, trailing edges, and the like. Lumpiness caused by minor wrinkes or glue gobs are easily ironed flat. Use a calibrated iron, and no more than 350 degrees F. Better to do it in stages, with each pass a little hotter, to keep the weave relatively straight. With some practice you can straighten it out with intelligent application of the heat here and there. After shrinking, a clear finish can be applied to bond the whole thing to the surface, another technique used on fabric-covered wooden airplanes. Wet-sand with 220 grit silicon carbide waterproof paper, and give it a final spray coat. Comes up like glass. Dan I build speakers as a hobby. You might try Parts Express. They sell anything and everything for speaker building. www.partsexpress.com They have some material that is used for speakers that you iron on like model covering. I got my first ideas for cross-overs and cabinet building from... www.speakerbuilder.net Awesome designs ! My first pair were the Dayton DIII's. I love them and have not heard any speaker below $1K to match them. For $300, I think they are great ! >I have a question about fabric covering, for those of you who have > experience in such matters. This isn't about model airplanes, but I [quoted text clipped - 58 lines] > used nitrate dope? Would a base coat of nitrate make the butyrate > method work any better? >I build speakers as a hobby. You might try Parts Express. They sell >anything and everything for speaker building. [quoted text clipped - 73 lines] >> used nitrate dope? Would a base coat of nitrate make the butyrate >> method work any better? I use a utilitarian approach to performance grade speaker enclosures. I have decided to use the same material that is sprayed onto pickup truck beds to protect them. Performance grade speakers are moved constantly from one venue to another and suffer the slings and arrows of constant moving and handling. Appearance is not as important as function in this type of enclosure. Besides, in the long haul, I feel that this material will look better than any kind of pretty finish in a short period of use. Ed Cregger Ed, Parts Express has the iron on stuff that has a "rough" finish to it. I am told this is for toughness and to give those types of speakers something for you to grip with. It's the same stuff that is used on speakers for concerts and has to handle the "roadies" rough treatment. You are right, I wouldn't put a pretty finish (veneer/stain/etc.) on a speaker that was going to be handled and moved allot. >>I build speakers as a hobby. You might try Parts Express. They sell >>anything and everything for speaker building. [quoted text clipped - 85 lines] > > Ed Cregger The guy who is going to build my cabinets mentioned the finish on the Peavey cabinets that they used in the 1970s. He said that it was some kind of spray-on stuff like a truck bed liner, and he referred to it as "bulletproof". I have already thought about the fact that most amps look like crap after a couple of years of use, and the spray-on stuff seems like a good idea. Doped-on fabric is also very durable. It's certainly a lot better than the Tolex that they use on most stuff nowadays. > Ed, > [quoted text clipped - 94 lines] > > > > Ed Cregger > I am starting a harmonica amplifier company, and I'm considering > different ways to finish the speaker cabinets. I want something [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > http://www.kcnet.com/~robbie/bluesky2.jpg > http://www.kcnet.com/~robbie/bluesky3.jpg You know, the more I think about it, have you considered contact cement? It should work fantastic for this kind of application. It will probably need two coats on the fabric, but just one on the wood. Try it on a small sample, and let us know! SignatureJim in NC I took everybody's suggestions and came up with a way to stick the fabric on. First I painted all of the edges with StixIt. Then I put the cotton fabric on, stretching it tight like Monokote and ironing it at the edges. I painted on more adhesive to iron all of the seams down where they overlapped. When I had everything tight and in place, I brushed on a heavy coat of Minwax Polycrylic water based semi gloss acrylic. It's still wet, but it looks great so far. Tomorrow morning I'll see if it's still stuck in place. I figure about 3 or 4 coats ought to do the trick. I'll let you know if it bubbles or loosens. > I am starting a harmonica amplifier company, and I'm considering different ways to finish the speaker cabinets. If I may ask...... What is the difference in a speaker for a harmonica and a speaker for a guitar? Just curious! > > I am starting a harmonica amplifier company, and I'm considering > different ways to finish the speaker cabinets. > > If I may ask...... What is the difference in a speaker for a harmonica > and a speaker for a guitar? Just curious! There isn't any difference. However, there are lots of different makes and models of speakers on the market, and you have to choose the ones that have the performance that you are looking for. I have found a couple of specific speakers that have a nice Chicago blues sound when used with my amplifier designs. This kind of thing is best determined through trial and error. >>> I am starting a harmonica amplifier company, and I'm considering >> different ways to finish the speaker cabinets. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > used with my amplifier designs. This kind of thing is best determined > through trial and error. The is and should be lots of difference. Guitars - electric guitars of solid body design anyway - use the amplifier, speaker and cabinet as a 'sounding board' - it is an integral part of the instrument. The harmonica is merely 'amplified' and will need a far less distorted and colored loudspeaker. > > There isn't any difference. However, there are lots of different makes > > and models of speakers on the market, and you have to choose the ones > > that have the performance that you are looking for. I have found a > > couple of specific speakers that have a nice Chicago blues sound when > > used with my amplifier designs. This kind of thing is best determined > > through trial and error. > The is and should be lots of difference. > Guitars - electric guitars of solid body design anyway - use the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > The harmonica is merely 'amplified' and will need a far less distorted > and colored loudspeaker. As a matter of fact, if you're looking for a good blues tone the harmonica needs more help than a guitar does. A good amp has to change a harmonica from a squeaky toy into an authoritative voice. A clean guitar sound is nice, but the cleaner the harmonica, the more annoying it is. The general rule is that the best guitar amps and the best harmonica amps are usually in two different groups. >> > There isn't any difference. However, there are lots of different makes >> > and models of speakers on the market, and you have to choose the ones [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > it is. The general rule is that the best guitar amps and the best > harmonica amps are usually in two different groups. I have an Ampeg SJ-12T and an R-12R that sound good for harmonica and jazz guitar. The R-12R has a feature for dirtying up the signal via overdriving the preamp. Both are 60 watt tube amps with a single 12" speaker. Kind of gross overkill for most harmonica gigs, but I love them both for guitar and everything else I have plugged into them. Even if they do give you a hernia while moving them. A Behringer anti-feedback box would come in handy when using a harmonica. Ed Cregger > I have an Ampeg SJ-12T and an R-12R that sound good for harmonica and jazz > guitar. Ed, Is there a "rec.models.rc.air.binaries.mp3" newsgroup so you can play us all a tune? :-) Good flying, desmobob >> I have an Ampeg SJ-12T and an R-12R that sound good for harmonica and >> jazz guitar. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Good flying, > desmobob No, but if you go to www.soundclick.com and type Ed Cregger into the search window in the Artist category, you can hear four tunes that I wrote and recorded in 2003 while trying to learn a bit about Sonar recording software. All of the recording was done on my Dell laptop. I "played", if you can call it that, all of the instruments. No vocals. Don't expect anything fantastic. It was just an exercise to learn a bit about the program and there are some mistakes that I haven't bothered cleaning up. Ed Cregger >I took everybody's suggestions and came up with a way to stick the >fabric on. First I painted all of the edges with StixIt. Then I put [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >I'll see if it's still stuck in place. I figure about 3 or 4 coats >ought to do the trick. I'll let you know if it bubbles or loosens. You work fast! Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated. "One test is worth ten thousand expert opinions." Marty Robbie and Laura Reynolds Wrote: > When I had everything tight and in place, I brushed on a heavy coat o > Minwax Polycrylic water based semi gloss > acrylic. Um . . . polycrylic doesn't like alcohol -at all- (DAMHIKT). According to the MinWax folks, polycrylic is resistant to the dilute sort of alcohol in mixed drinks if it is wiped up -immediately-. These speaker enclosures won't ever see service in a bar, will they -- the-plumbe > Robbie and Laura Reynolds Wrote: > > When I had everything tight and in place, I brushed on a heavy coat of [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > These speaker enclosures won't ever see service in a bar, will they ? I just read the can, and it says it resists water, alcohol and other common household chemicals. If I remember correctly, Aero-Gloss dope is also an acrylic formula. |
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