 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
| HomeDiscussion Groups General ModelsRailroadsRocketsRadio Controlled Air ModelsHelicoptersLand ModelsWater ModelsModelGeeks.com Contact UsLink To UsSearch & Site Map |
Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Air Models / December 2006Starting an engine
Okay, so I'm kind of a beginner... so what materials do you absolutly NEED to start a glow engine? The manual says I need a glow starter and a propeller spinner, but I've had people tell me that I don't really need either. If possible I would like to spare as much of that possibly huge expense as I can (not to sound cheap or anything). So what do you really need? > Okay, so I'm kind of a beginner... so what materials do you absolutly > NEED to start a glow engine? The manual says I need a glow starter and > a propeller spinner, but I've had people tell me that I don't really > need either. If possible I would like to spare as much of that possibly > huge expense as I can (not to sound cheap or anything). So what do you > really need? You need a fuel tank, fuel line, 1.5 VDC source with ample current capacity, a means of applying the 1.5 VDC to the proper connections on the glow plug, something to mount the engine to (do not hold in a vise or other clamping device), a propeller, fuel, fuel tank, fuel line, a means of transferring fuel to the fuel tank and the nut and washer to hold the propeller (tightly) to the engine, which should have came with the engine. Depending upon the type of mount you use, you may need machine screws to hold the engine in place. The more of this stuff you already have, the less you will have to buy or barter for. Ed Cregger So do I need something that spins the propeller to start it? As you probably know, they sell glow starters that heat the plug, but can you just use some sort of battery? If so, what voltage? > So do I need something that spins the propeller to start it? As you > probably know, they sell glow starters that heat the plug, but can you > just use some sort of battery? If so, what voltage? You probably got lost in Ed's extensive list, but he mentioned that you need 1.5 volts. You can flip the propeller with a screwdriver if you want. A lot of old timers and those of us too cheap to buy an electric starter have used our fingers, but this is like playing with snakes. Sooner or later they bite you. After I got tired of cutting my fingers I started using a screwdriver. I held onto the pointy end and used the handle to flip the prop. It worked very well. Later I graduated to an electric starter. It made me wonder why I would ever want to use anything else. All of the common starting gear is like that. They make a small variety of attachments to get the 1.5 volts to the glow plug. I've used a lot of weird setups to fire up a glowplug, and they all make me realize how nice it is to have the real thing. Well, thanks a lot guys. I've been held up for a long time on this. I'm on my first project, so I didn't know to buy CA glue, and I wanted to buy anything else I needed in that order. I didn't know what else I needed, so it held me up a couple weeks. Thanks for the advice. > So do I need something that spins the propeller to start it? As you > probably know, they sell glow starters that heat the plug, but can you > just use some sort of battery? If so, what voltage? used to be 1.5v, now its generally 1.2v from a Nicd cell. We used to use 2.2v lead acid in my day. They ALWAYS started...till the plugs burned out anyway. | used to be 1.5v, now its generally 1.2v from a Nicd cell. Of course, that NiCd cell could be anywhere from 1.4 volts to 1.0 volts or so. (And that 1.5 volt battery starts at 1.5 volts and goes downhill from there.) | We used to use 2.2v lead acid in my day. They ALWAYS started...till | the plugs burned out anyway. I'm not so sure that having glow plug burning extra hot would make the engine that much easier to start. The hard part is getting the right amount of fuel and air into the carb -- once that's done, as long as the glow plug is working properly, the engine will start. (Of course, getting that part done isn't that easy.) In any event, I agree with the others -- an electric starter is well worth it. A properly tuned and primed engine will start just fine with a chicken stick, but getting it to that point is hard, and a starter will make things a lot easier. If money is an issue, scan your local craiglist, local *.forsale group, even the local club bulliten board -- people sell used starters quite often, sometimes even giving them away. Often you can find a whole box of almost new plane accessories and a smashed up trainer for next to nothing :) If you can't get a starter, at least get a stick or something -- don't use your hand unless you use a thick glove, and even that's a bit risky. Even a little 0.061 can cut you up nicely. I'd suggest not using a screwdriver -- if the engine backfires or you accidently put it back into the prop, it can become a projectile and could take out an eye. A dowel or a broom handle cut off will work fine and isn't quite so sharp. As for the glow ignitor, get something that holds on good to the glow plug -- anything less will just aggrivate you. The ones with the meters are well worth it too -- they'll tell you if the battery is dead or the glow plug has been burned out. (Note that there's two parts to a glow plug -- the coils, and the catalyst coating. If the coating fouls, then the engine will start as long as the glow plug has power, but will die when it's removed. Just because a glow plug lights up, that doesn't mean it's good!)  SignatureDoug McLaren, dougmc@frenzied.us He's trying to hypnotize me, and it's not in that good Las Vegas kind of way. --Homer Simpson > | used to be 1.5v, now its generally 1.2v from a Nicd cell. > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > I'm not so sure that having glow plug burning extra hot would make the > engine that much easier to start. I am. Engines would run on the clip, but not off it, if e.g. very rich. >The hard part is getting the right > amount of fuel and air into the carb -- once that's done, as long as [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > with a chicken stick, but getting it to that point is hard, and a > starter will make things a lot easier. Indeed. You weren't brought up on Diesels obviously. Glo engines were childs play after hand flicked Diesels. > If money is an issue, scan your local craiglist, local *.forsale > group, even the local club bulliten board -- people sell used starters [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > use your hand unless you use a thick glove, and even that's a bit > risky. Even a little 0.061 can cut you up nicely. It won't cut the fingers off though. > I'd suggest not using a screwdriver -- if the engine backfires or you > accidently put it back into the prop, it can become a projectile and [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > power, but will die when it's removed. Just because a glow plug > lights up, that doesn't mean it's good!) > So do I need something that spins the propeller to start it? As you > probably know, they sell glow starters that heat the plug, but can you > just use some sort of battery? If so, what voltage? You can start the engine by flipping the propeller with your finger, but I don't recommend doing it that way. It is too easy to be struck with the propeller and injured. Some folks use a stick-like device called a "Chicken Stick" and use that the force the propeller around, instead of their finger. A fancier way to start it is with an electric motor with a special cup on the end of the shaft that contains a rubber insert. This rubber insert in the end of the "starter" can be placed in the cup one of two ways. One way reveals a larger opening that is useful for starting engines with what is known as a spinner mounted over the propeller and on the end of the engine's crankshaft. Lacking a spinner and having just the engine's nut and bolt exposed, reversing the rubber insert in the starter's cup reveals a smaller hole that can be placed over the engine's crankshaft and against the propeller's face in order to acquire friction sufficient to start the engine. The electric starter will require a power source of some kind. Usually Nicad batteries or a single lead acid/calcium 12 volt battery. Ed Cregger >> So do I need something that spins the propeller to start it? As you >> probably know, they sell glow starters that heat the plug, but can you [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Ed Cregger I have always hand started all my engines I always use a finger stool (if that's the right word) and until recently I never owned a electric starter I have owned glow engines from a cox 049 to a ASP 80FS and several diesels including DC darts PAW's and all I can hand start them all so you don't "need" a electric starter the bare minimum you need is 1, chicken finger or a chicken stick (which just need to be a short length of dowel with a piece of hose pipe on one end) 2, a c sized battery and glow clip 3, a means of get the fuel in the tank could be a hand pump or a washing up liquid bottle but I would recommend getting a proper glow starter as in the following link > http://www.alshobbiesstore.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eal shobbiesstore%2ecom%2facatalog%2f&WD=glow%20starter&SHOP=%20&PN=Online_Catalogue _Glow_Starts_72%2ehtml%23a1417#a1417 but a 12v starter is nice to have but then you need a 12v battery and charger and then you have to carry it ? >>Okay, so I'm kind of a beginner... so what materials do you absolutly >>NEED to start a glow engine? The manual says I need a glow starter and [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Ed Cregger Assuming that you already have the engine properly mounted in an airplane that has all the plumbing, and that you have fuel in the fuel tank: * You need a _big_ 1.5 volt dry cell battery and a glow plug adapter * If you're really cheap you can use alligator clips. * If you're really cheaper you can use a bunch of 'D' cells in parallel. * I highly recommend springing for a rechargeable nicad glow starter. This will set you back 2-3 times as much as the glow plug wiring + battery above but (a) you can find it and (b) you will have a more reliable source of watts to the plug. * You need your hand (you didn't say "start safely"). * Folks who use their hands to start engines, but who are safety minded use leather gloves -- after a propeller strike this keeps all the bits together, which makes it easier on your flying field buddies and emergency room personnel. * You can use a "chicken stick", which is basically a dowel fit to a piece of rubber hose -- you put the chicken stick in the line of danger, and the worst that can happen is that _it_ gets smacked by the prop. * You need patience. If your engine is set up correctly and your glow starter battery is well charged and your glow plug is working correctly and you correctly prime the engine _and_ Bill Brown's ghost is in heaven interceding on your behalf -- the engine will start right up. You _can_ get the engine started this way, but it can take time. In particular there is no way of knowing whether you have set things up too rich or too lean -- I find that purposely setting it up a bit too lean then over-priming it will start me out with a flooded engine, but as I try to start it I'll go through the band where it'll run. If I'm lucky it'll run long enough for me to find a running needle valve setting, then I can go from there. There's lots of burps and bumps and belches that an experienced hand-starter of engines learns to recognize and respond to that you never have to bother with if you have an electric starter in your hand. I have found that if you bring a nice airplane to the field, make sure that everyone knows you're a beginner, then struggle with it for a while someone will show up at your side with a fresh glow starter and an electric starter. This can be very handy getting an engine going the first time. SignatureTim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com Posting from Google? See http://cfaj.freeshell.org/google/ "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" came out in April. See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html The main thing to have for starting a glow aircraft engine is the knowledge of how to do the original setting up of the equipment, ( Mount - Fuel tank - throttle linkage - glow igniter - prop - prop size for the engine and proper starting point for needle valves setting ) I therefore strongly suggest you seek out a club and at least observe what is going on even if you don't want to get acquainted with the members and the club. However if you think you are serious about this hobby ( yes it can be expensive and if this is a problem DON"T START ) I strongly suggest you get acquainted and join the club. I am sure the club can in the end save you a lot of $ by you not making the wrong decisions without the guidance of the experienced flyers. Another side of the club is that there is usually equipment that the members have outgrown or changed types of planes they desire. Good used equipment usually goes for about 1/2 the new price. Just my views. >>>Okay, so I'm kind of a beginner... so what materials do you absolutly >>>NEED to start a glow engine? The manual says I need a glow starter and [quoted text clipped - 56 lines] > electric starter. This can be very handy getting an engine going the > first time. > Okay, so I'm kind of a beginner... so what materials do you absolutly > NEED to start a glow engine? The manual says I need a glow starter and > a propeller spinner, but I've had people tell me that I don't really > need either. If possible I would like to spare as much of that possibly > huge expense as I can (not to sound cheap or anything). So what do you > really need? Glow starter and fuel And tough fingers. And patience. > > Okay, so I'm kind of a beginner... so what materials do you absolutly > > NEED to start a glow engine? The manual says I need a glow starter and [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > And tough fingers. > And patience. I've found with .40 and larger 2-strokes that once the engine is run in, you can hand start them by gripping just the nosecone (so no fingers in the prop) and flicking the prop backwards, bouncing it back off the compression. It takes a little practice and technique, and you have to have a reliable priming routine, but it makes for a very quick and safe way to start a motor. Of course, if the needle valve is out of whack, or it's flooded, all bets are off :( Somebody wrote "Grip the nose cone...". Come on now, gentlemen. Nose cones are on rockets and SPINNERS are attached to the propellor..... Let's call it what it is....and this instance is almost as bad as the people who call their R/C Transmitter a "Controller". My gosh, it is a transmitter, and to be specific, the operator is the "controller".... This ought to get things started.......... Frank Schwartz > Somebody wrote "Grip the nose cone...". Come on now, gentlemen. Nose > cones are on rockets and SPINNERS are attached to the propellor..... [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > This ought to get things started.......... > Frank Schwartz Yeah, I'll bite. So does the P-38 have a nose cone? Does my glider? :) mk >> Somebody wrote "Grip the nose cone...". Come on now, gentlemen. Nose >> cones are on rockets and SPINNERS are attached to the propellor..... [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >:) >mk Well, if my information is correct, a spinner has ALWAYS referred to the rounded or pointed fitting on the propellor. As for nose cones, I, again, without historical backup, have to rely on the information at hand and that is, that a nose cone is the front end of a rocket. As for the front end of the P-38 and your glider...I suggest that it is called simply, "the nose"....but never a nose cone... Actually, I dont think the word "nose cone" came into being until rockets... Frank Frank >>> Somebody wrote "Grip the nose cone...". Come on now, gentlemen. Nose >>> cones are on rockets and SPINNERS are attached to the propellor..... [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > dont think the word "nose cone" came into being until rockets... > Frank Ah, you must be speaking in "old school". Today's models are powered by nitroglycerine burning engines and are equipped with nose cones. <G> Ed Cregger > Somebody wrote "Grip the nose cone...". Come on now, gentlemen. Nose > cones are on rockets and SPINNERS are attached to the propellor..... > Let's call it what it is....and this instance is almost as bad as the > people who call their R/C Transmitter a "Controller". My gosh, it is > a transmitter, and to be specific, the operator is the > "controller".... This coming from someone who I suspect puts a petroleum-derived fuel in its liquid state into his vehicle and refers to said fuel as "gas"? I used the term because I thought the original poster might find it easier to understand what I was referring to than "spinner". i admit, i didnt know it was called a "spinner".yes yes, im a newb >> Somebody wrote "Grip the nose cone...". Come on now, gentlemen. Nose >> cones are on rockets and SPINNERS are attached to the propellor..... [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > I used the term because I thought the original poster might find it easier > to understand what I was referring to than "spinner". >Okay, so I'm kind of a beginner... so what materials do you absolutly >NEED to start a glow engine? The manual says I need a glow starter and >a propeller spinner, but I've had people tell me that I don't really >need either. If possible I would like to spare as much of that possibly >huge expense as I can (not to sound cheap or anything). So what do you >really need? You have been given lists of everything but the kitchen sink, but the best idea is to find a helpful local modeller. It all seems a nightmare at the start, but is like riding a bike after a little while. Personally, I use a small 2 volt GellCell and a glo-clip, and a rubber finger guard, several folk used to make these, but they are hard to find nowadays. I get the occasional crack on the finger, but it hardly hurts. OTOH, without the guard, I'm sure I would bleed, esp with some of the very sharp-edged props. I have never found the need for a starter and don't own one, except for a tiny home-made high-speed one for Cox .049 engines. But I don't use anything over a .90 size engine. Barry Lennox > Okay, so I'm kind of a beginner... so what materials do you absolutly > NEED to start a glow engine? The manual says I need a glow starter and > a propeller spinner, but I've had people tell me that I don't really > need either. If possible I would like to spare as much of that possibly > huge expense as I can (not to sound cheap or anything). So what do you > really need? I started out with control liners hand starting diesel engines many years ago. When i moved to R/C electric starters were quite expensive so i used to start my OS25 with a chicken stick. Recently i have bought an irvine 53 now made by OS. OS have made a small change to the irvine design which means that if you hand start it it will almost certainly at some time result in minor engine damage curtailing a days flying. The change consists of replacing the tapered crankshaft and prop driver with a D type crankshaft and prop driver. If the engine is slightly over primed it can kick, on my old OS this just caused the prop to come undone, on the irvine it broke the D in the prop driver. The instructions with most modern 2 stroke engines advise using an electric starter, i would advise you follow those instructions. SignatureRick -- >> Okay, so I'm kind of a beginner... so what materials do you absolutly >> NEED to start a glow engine? The manual says I need a glow starter and [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > instructions with most modern 2 stroke engines advise using an electric > starter, i would advise you follow those instructions. you can do the same damage or even more with a electric starter and if your still over priming the engine now with years of experience you need to change your starting technique I have never damaged an engine with either the d type or a tapered driver by hand starting from the web and its basically the same for me with the changes by me in brackets{} http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/model_aircraft_engines/starting.htm To Hand Start any Engine 1. Move the throttle to idle, hook up the glow igniter and turn over the engine slowly by hand{I would have a good hold on the prop at this point}. If it kicks then skip to step 7. If you do not feel a slight kick then disconnect the igniter and continue with the next step. 2. Open the throttle all the way. Put a finger or thumb over the carburetor to seal it. {or if its fully cowled then a finger over the exhaust does a similar trick} Turn over the prop by hand — you will see fuel moving up the fuel line toward the carb. This is called choking. Continue doing this until you see the fuel enter the carburetor. After you see the fuel enter the carburetor give it only one more flip. If you flip it more than once you will probably flood the engine.(and this is how you damage your engine buy then flicking by hand if you have flooded it, aim the exhaust at the ground and empty all the extra fuel out first} 3. Remove your finger from the carb and move the throttle to the idle setting. 4. Flip the propeller over sharply a half dozen times to get the fuel distributed throughout the engine. 5. Connect the glow igniter. 6. While holding the propeller, turn (do not flip) the engine over several times until you feel a definite "kick." The kick means that it is ready to start. If the engine is flooded then be careful when you flip the prop — it may backfire and smack your hand pretty hard giving you a nice cut. 7. Give the propeller a good flip and it should start immediately. If it does not start continue to flip the prop until it no longer kicks. If it still does not start then disconnect the glow igniter and go back to step 1. Once or twice through these steps only does not even take a minute and your engine should start >>> Okay, so I'm kind of a beginner... so what materials do you absolutly >>> NEED to start a glow engine? The manual says I need a glow starter and [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > from the web and its basically the same for me with the changes by me in > brackets{} I have until recently not damaged an engine by hand starting and always started them using that procedure. Possibly you can damage an engine with an electric starter, though i have not come across anyone who has (perhaps using a starter for large engines on a small engine?) Modern engines like the irvine are highly tuned (a 53 producing the same power as a 60), its also new so i have it running a few clicks rich and many models have the engine mounted upside down. I believe it was this along with hand starting which led to the damage (the flat on the prop driver looks a little inadequate too.) As a beginner Erik's best source of advice is those experienced model flyer's at his club. Where he can ask someone to demonstrate or teach him hand or electric starting. The majority of model flyer's are happy to aid beginners. My next outing to the local power field will be my first time with an electric starter, you can bet i will be enlisting the aid of someone with a few years experience to illuminate possible pitfalls and demonstrate the correct technique. I note even those with electric starters mostly start four strokes by hand. Starting equipment: 1.2v - 2v power source for the glow plug, most model shops carry a re-chargeable nicad unit, around 10 - 14GBP ideal for this purpose. And either: An electric starter with suitable 12v battery, most at our club use a 7ah sealed lead acid battery around 15GBP. Or A chicken stick, i use a length of dowel wrapped in a piece of old inner tube. SignatureRick -- Oh the slander of the diesels! Actually, I've recently been exposed to and love RC diesel engines. Fuel is cheap and ultra easy to make. No matter what engine...a IO-540 in a private plane or a .15 in a RC the key is KNOWING YOUR ENGINE. When I first started the diesels, an electric starter was the only way. Now....after a few months, I can hand flip them cold or hot in just a few flicks. I learned the correct prime/choke. How it should "feel" and sound. Again...the key is KNOWING YOUR ENGINE. > >>> Okay, so I'm kind of a beginner... so what materials do you absolutly > >>> NEED to start a glow engine? The manual says I need a glow starter and [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] > Or A chicken stick, i use a length of dowel wrapped in a piece of old > inner tube. > My next outing to the local power field will be my first time with an electric > starter, you can bet i will be enlisting the aid of someone with a few years > experience to illuminate possible pitfalls and demonstrate the correct > technique. I note even those with electric starters mostly start four strokes > by hand. By far, the BIGGEST danger of damaging an engine with an electric starter is trying to start it when the engine gets flooded. Whatever you do for priming, I would suggest not using a squirt of fuel in the carb. That can fill the combustion chamber with enough fuel to cause hydraulic lock, which simply stated, is that if you have enough fuel in the cylinder that is attempted to compress by turning over the engine with the starter, the liquid will not compress, and you bend a rod, or crankshaft. The cure is to turn it through a couple revolutions by hand (important: without the glow battery hooked up) and make sure it turns easily. You can then use the electric starter, assuming that you do not have fuel siphoning in rapidly, or something strange like that. My favorite method of starting is to hold the engine by the muffler, (that gives you a good grip on the motor, to resist the pressing on with the starter cone, without damaging the aircraft fuselage or wing) After it gets spinning good, put your thumb on and off of the muffler outlet, to feed in the necessary extra fuel to get it starting. This assumes you have muffler pressure on the tank, which I personally thing is the far superior way of plumbing it. There are exceptions for engines with pulse fuel pumps, and other unusual plumbing jobs. Good Luck!!! SignatureJim in NC > My favorite method of starting is to hold the engine by the muffler, > (that gives you a good grip on the motor, to resist the pressing on with [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > is the far superior way of plumbing it. There are exceptions for > engines with pulse fuel pumps, and other unusual plumbing jobs. Thanx for the info, I went to the field yesterday and asked one of the younger members to talk me through electric starting, this is the same method he suggested. :) After spending some time setting the engine up again (i had stripped the carb to inspect and clean in case there was anything wrong) all went well. SignatureRick -- >> My favorite method of starting is to hold the engine by the muffler, >> (that gives you a good grip on the motor, to resist the pressing on with [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > again (i had stripped the carb to inspect and clean in case there was > anything wrong) all went well. This is a dangerous (for the engine) way for a beginner to start an engine (and specifically warned against in some engine manuals). It is not advisable to use any kind of priming technique while you're turning the engine with an electric starter. If the engine floods and hydrolocks, you can damage the engine. Good flying, desmobob > This is a dangerous (for the engine) way for a beginner to start an engine > (and specifically warned against in some engine manuals). It is not advisable > to use any kind of priming technique while you're turning the engine with an > electric starter. If the engine floods and hydrolocks, you can damage the > engine. I didn't say to put the thumb or finger on and off the outlet quickly, in short pulses, but that is what I do. I've been doing this for 15 years, and never even come close to hydro lock, or been bitten by the prop. Common sense must prevail, as always. I stand by my recommendation. SignatureJim in NC >I didn't say to put the thumb or finger on and off the outlet quickly, in short >pulses, but that is what I do. I've been doing this for 15 years, and never >even come close to hydro lock, or been bitten by the prop. >Common sense must prevail, as always. I stand by my recommendation. I've done it, too, though not habitually. I usually try to prime the old-fashioned way, if the carb is accessible: glow driver off, thumb or finger over carb, flip prop until I can see fuel come up the tube or until the engine seems wet. Marty > I usually try to prime the old-fashioned way, > if the carb is accessible: glow driver off, > thumb or finger over carb, flip prop until > I can see fuel come up the tube or until > the engine seems wet. I do a good bit of my flying with an air cleaner over the carb, so that is a hard thing for me to do. SignatureJim in NC >> I usually try to prime the old-fashioned way, >> if the carb is accessible: glow driver off, >> thumb or finger over carb, flip prop until >> I can see fuel come up the tube or until >> the engine seems wet. >I do a good bit of my flying with an air cleaner over the carb, so that is a >hard thing for me to do. Yep. I seem to misremember having a Saito that was mounted inverted and mostly cowled in. I think I used to use the block-the-stinger method to prime it. I may have done that when flipping the prop by hand. It seems to me that I was able to get that engine (a .91) started mostly by flipping the prop backwards after priming it. Marty > > This is a dangerous (for the engine) way for a beginner to start an engine > > (and specifically warned against in some engine manuals). It is not advisable [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > pulses, but that is what I do. I've been doing this for 15 years, and never > even come close to hydro lock, or been bitten by the prop. I'd agree, but a bit of experience helps to know when it's needed. If the damn thing isn't firing, a brief bit of pressure into the tank to force fuel into the carb often does the trick. You certainly wouldn't initiate starting with the muffler blocked. On the subject of hydraulic lock, in my younger days I used OS .10 size engines in airboats which often got dunked and were a bastard to get started again, but with all the warnings about breaking the conrod etc.in a flooded engine it never happened, and I wasn't exactly gentle when jamming on the starter. In fact, one of the same, regularly dunked and generally mistreated engines now, 15 years later, happily pulls a little Extra around the sky. Your change in Step 2 is true only if you are using muffler pressure. Otherwise putting your finger over the exhaust won't do anything -- CafeenMa > Your change in Step 2 is true only if you are using muffler pressure. > Otherwise putting your finger over the exhaust won't do anything. true but I never have not used muffler pressure apart from years ago when we never had then |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2012 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.