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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Air Models / October 2006Krylon crystal clear 1301 Acrylic Coating
Yes it is available everywhere. However rather than just paying for spray cans has anyone come up with bulk item in pints or quarts that can be thinned and used in an airbrush. Is there a substitute for spray krylon that one can use in his own spray equipment. I am finding good uses for the spray on gampi tissue for light models. I am using Apple Barrell brands for airbrushing and it is water based which is great for spraying foam and tissue models. Cutting with alcohol speeds drying time and spreading evenly. Now if I could find the clear gloss like Krylon that would be great. I am sure someone has come up with a substitution instead of the cans of spray. Doc Ferguson >Yes it is available everywhere. However rather than just paying for >spray cans has anyone come up with bulk item in pints or quarts that [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >I am sure someone has come up with a substitution instead of the cans >of spray. Seems to me that any clear acrylic wood finish would work if thinned. Try the local hardware store. -- Ray Try Future floor finish. It's acrylic and can be cleaned up with ammonia.  SignatureBest regards, Mark Daughtry, SR > Yes it is available everywhere. However rather than just paying for > spray cans has anyone come up with bulk item in pints or quarts that [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > of spray. > Doc Ferguson >Try Future floor finish. It's acrylic and can be cleaned up with ammonia. Good idea. A few years back I built a 12 foot Telemaster and used Coverite 21st Century prepainted fabric. Fantastic stuff and easiest covering job I had ever done. I did, however, seal the edges with clear polyurethane. Worked for me. Frank Schwartz Try Minwax Polyurathane Clear Varnish...water cleans it up... >>Try Future floor finish. It's acrylic and can be cleaned up with ammonia. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > clear polyurethane. Worked for me. > Frank Schwartz Having been out of modeling since the late 50s, I joined this group to try and get caught up with technology. My question is, would these finishes be fuel proof or they for use with electric power only? Randy > Try Minwax Polyurathane Clear Varnish...water cleans it > up... [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> clear polyurethane. Worked for me. >> Frank Schwartz > Having been out of modeling since the late 50s, I joined > this group to try and get caught up with technology. My > question is, would these finishes be fuel proof or they for > use with electric power only? > > Randy This would be mainly for light framed electric powered. The spray would add strength and not suffer from weight gain if applied correctly. Doc Ferguson > > Try Minwax Polyurathane Clear Varnish...water cleans it > > up... [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > >> clear polyurethane. Worked for me. > >> Frank Schwartz If you let it cure properly and apply 2 coats, it is good. I know for sure that I have tested it at 10% on a regular basis. I think I have tested it at 15% but I don't recall for sure, it may have been on a bird that did not get the Minwax. Jim > Having been out of modeling since the late 50s, I joined this group to try > and get caught up with technology. My question is, would these finishes [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >>> clear polyurethane. Worked for me. >>> Frank Schwartz > Try Minwax Polyurathane Clear Varnish...water cleans it up... > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > clear polyurethane. Worked for me. > > Frank Schwartz The miniwax polyurathane sounds like the best idea. I am sure I could cut it with alcohol and aid in spraying thin coats and speed up drying time. Thanks Doc Ferguson Hmmm, Water soluble? Wouldn't it be better to thin it with water or am I wrong? >> Try Minwax Polyurathane Clear Varnish...water cleans it up... >> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Doc Ferguson Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge: >> Try Minwax Polyurathane Clear Varnish...water cleans it up... >> [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Doc Ferguson MinWax Polycrylic is fuel RESISTANT to 15% nitro as long as you follow the following caveats: 1. Let the poly dry a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing to exhaust residue. 2. Do not let the residue remain on the plane for more than 4 hours. At about 4 hours the finish begins to soften. As for thinning the poly, It is quite thin right out of the can. I really do not feel the poly needs any additional thinning. I do suggest adding 1 1/2 caps of Flotrol per quart of poly AND/OR latex paint PRIOR to any thinning. The Flotrol retards the drying time somewhat and allows the poly/paint more time to "level" itself out. |
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