??? before first attempt

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dh@. - 24 Oct 2006 17:05 GMT

I'm about ready to try trying to operate a CP2 a little bit for the first
time, beginning with trying not to wreck it in a one foot square on the
ground. Before making an attempt there are some questions I hope
people can help me with.

The main blades were loose for shipping, so is there a specific way of
lining them up with each other before tightening? It has wood blades and
the manual says to adjust their pitch control links. Do the sockets just
pop off and on the ball at the joint? If so, how many times can you do
that? How to align the paddles on top?

The controller looks like this one:

http://www.flingwing.net/transmitter.html

I want to be in mode 2 with the throttle on the left. Is that controlled
by the switches in the bottom right corner of the controller? If not,
what are they for? This one came set like the ones in the pic.

When the heli is powered off, does it hurt anything to move servo arms
or will all that re-set at power-up?

Thanks!
David

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The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 24 Oct 2006 17:40 GMT

>I'm about ready to try trying to operate a CP2 a little bit for the first
>time, beginning with trying not to wreck it in a one foot square on the
>ground. Before making an attempt there are some questions I hope
>people can help me with.

Step 1. Buy or make a set of training gear. Well worth the $10 or
$15 it'll cost you..

>The main blades were loose for shipping, so is there a specific way of
>lining them up with each other before tightening? It has wood blades and
>the manual says to adjust their pitch control links. Do the sockets just
>pop off and on the ball at the joint? If so, how many times can you do
>that? How to align the paddles on top?

Everyone's got their own way of setting blade tightness. What I do
(and this also seems to be how most people do it) is tighten the blade
bolts just until, when the helicopter is on it's side and the blades
are parallel to the ground, the blades won't move in the grips, but if
you give the helo a little shake, they will.

At spool up, just pull the blades out and eyeball 'em. Centrifugal
force will pull them into proper alignment when they're up to speed.

For the control links, buy a set of ball link pliers and have the shop
show you how to use them. The links can be popped off and on many
times. Some links are "one way" and will be marked as to which side
faces away from the ball.

As for paddle alignment, you can use a pitch gauge or just line 'em up
with your Mark-One eyeball.

>The controller looks like this one:
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>by the switches in the bottom right corner of the controller? If not,
>what are they for? This one came set like the ones in the pic.

The switches are for servo reversing. The manual will have the proper
switch orientation for each channel.

>When the heli is powered off, does it hurt anything to move servo arms
>or will all that re-set at power-up?

The servos will center when you power up the helo. Moving them by
hand won't hurt the elecronics, but you could strip a servo gear.
I've never had one strip moving them by hand, but it COULD happen.

**IMPORTANT** TURN ON THE TRANSMITTER BEFORE YOU PLUG IN THE BATTERY
ON THE HELICOPTER!!! UNPLUG THE BATTERY BEFORE TURNING THE
TRANSMITTER OFF.*** Remember, transmitter is on first and off last.
If you don't do this, the heli could spool up and get away from you.

Finally, see if you can get some help from an experienced heli guy.
it is possible to learn on your own, but some experienced help will
make it a much easier prospect.

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Richard - 25 Oct 2006 04:07 GMT

> >I'm about ready to try trying to operate a CP2 a little bit for the first
> >time, beginning with trying not to wreck it in a one foot square on the
[quoted text clipped - 53 lines]
> it is possible to learn on your own, but some experienced help will
> make it a much easier prospect.

A couple of other things to add, when you turn the transmitter on always
make sure the throttle trim and stick are in their lowest position (all the
way down).

Before connecting the battery, always make sure the CP is on the ground and
clear from foreign objects and wait for the 4 in 1 to arm, 3 red light
blinks then 5 green light blinks (this may vary from model to model).

As well as buying the crash kit you might want to get a set of plastic
blades as they are a lot stronger than the wooden blades.
http://jcshobbies.com/

There is also a wealth of information about setting up the BCP on here
http://bladecprepair.com/

Cheers

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The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 25 Oct 2006 16:14 GMT

>A couple of other things to add, when you turn the transmitter on always
>make sure the throttle trim and stick are in their lowest position (all the
>way down).

Good tip, but I can't think of a single 4-in-1/3-in-1 or ESC that'll
arm with the throttle in any position but all the way down.

>Before connecting the battery, always make sure the CP is on the ground and
>clear from foreign objects and wait for the 4 in 1 to arm, 3 red light
>blinks then 5 green light blinks (this may vary from model to model).

A bit unclear here.. The battery will need to be connected for the
4-in1/3-in-1 to arm. See your particular model's docs for specifics
on LED indicators.

>As well as buying the crash kit you might want to get a set of plastic
>blades as they are a lot stronger than the wooden blades.
>http://jcshobbies.com/

Not a good idea IMO. Yeah, they're stronger than wood blades, but
since they are, head parts will be more likely to break in a crash.
They're also heavy and some stock ships won't have the "oomph" to spin
'em up. Stick with the $8 woodies from helidirect..
http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=117_120&products_id=975

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Jennifer Smith - 25 Oct 2006 19:28 GMT

>> A couple of other things to add, when you turn the transmitter on always
>> make sure the throttle trim and stick are in their lowest position (all the
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> 'em up. Stick with the $8 woodies from helidirect..
> http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=117_120&products_id=975

I'm partial to foam blades... they can't even take a slight beating, but
they certainly don't damage anything either. After having a CF blade
slice my arm (stupid beginners mistake, don't ask) I appreciate blades
that break easily :)

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The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 26 Oct 2006 17:04 GMT

>I'm partial to foam blades... they can't even take a slight beating, but
> they certainly don't damage anything either. After having a CF blade
>slice my arm (stupid beginners mistake, don't ask) I appreciate blades
>that break easily :)

hehe, I walked into the blades of my old Schluter JR50 a long time
ago. Had just finished up a tank and the heli was spooling down and I
just walked over to pick it up. THWACK! right on the shin.. The only
damage was to my leg.. :)

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Steve R - 26 Oct 2006 17:10 GMT

>>I'm partial to foam blades... they can't even take a slight beating, but
>> they certainly don't damage anything either. After having a CF blade
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> just walked over to pick it up. THWACK! right on the shin.. The only
> damage was to my leg.. :)

Yup, been there, done that, except it was on an X-Cell 60. Fortunately, I
had let the rotor hub spool down a litte before leaning over to stop it
completely. I just got too close and whammo! Instant knot on the front of
my leg. I was more suprised than hurt but it certainly got my attention! I
don't "even" want to know what kind of damage that blade would have done had
it been anywhere "near" flight rpms! :-o

Fly safe out there,
Steve R.

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The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 26 Oct 2006 23:05 GMT

>> hehe, I walked into the blades of my old Schluter JR50 a long time
>> ago. Had just finished up a tank and the heli was spooling down and I
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>don't "even" want to know what kind of damage that blade would have done had
>it been anywhere "near" flight rpms! :-o

This one was at about 2/3 speed.. Just had a brain fart.. "Can't see
the blades so they must not be there.." duh...

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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Air Models / October 2006

??? before first attempt