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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Air Models / March 2008



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Hinges

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rich - 28 Mar 2008 15:32 GMT
I've always hated cutting slots for hinges.  CA or plastic.  Got
that slot cutter from Dubro or sombody, and my chainsaw could do a
better job.  (Possibly operator error)  X-acto blades by themselves
cut too small a slot.  Yesterday I cut up a hacksaw blade to give me a
blade 1/8 inch wide by about 1 inch long, tapering to full width with
the Dremmel.  Sharpened the point, and tried it out.

  The sharp end pushes in easily, and the teeth on the blade remove
material easily.  When I got done, a plastic hinge slid in with a snug
fit.  The slot was "sawn" to shape, not gouged out or crushed.   It
seems that the thichness of a hacksaw blade is just right for a hinge.

  I'll still use CA for gluing, but will also use a toothpick dowell
thru each side, just in case the glue fails in flight.  BTW, when the
elevator  hinges come out in flight, you won't have to worry about
remaining fuel or battery charge. (Cheap Chinese RTF!)

  Now back to that Sr Telemaster that's taking up a good poprtion of
my wood shop!  I may need another ticket from the FAA to fly this
monster!
The Natural Philosopher - 28 Mar 2008 15:42 GMT
>    I've always hated cutting slots for hinges.  CA or plastic.  Got
> that slot cutter from Dubro or sombody, and my chainsaw could do a
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> my wood shop!  I may need another ticket from the FAA to fly this
> monster!

Try two passes of a laser cutter 1/64" apart..oh the sheer JOY of it.

For 'top' hinging, get a file as wide as the hinge, and file a recess in
the wood, then cap with 1/16" balsa. Or thin ply.
rich - 29 Mar 2008 00:24 GMT
> Try two passes of a laser cutter 1/64" apart..oh the sheer JOY of it.
>
> For 'top' hinging, get a file as wide as the hinge, and file a recess in
> the wood, then cap with 1/16" balsa. Or thin ply.- Hide quoted text -

  Drool..... Laser cutter....  With enough power I could sell my
table saw, jointer, drill press and planer! Almost as good as a light
saber!

  Never thought about cutting a rabbit, then filling back in.  I'll
bet the router table would add some precision, too.  Just like a hinge
mortice, little deeper.  Thanks for the idea!!!!!
Six_O'Clock_High - 29 Mar 2008 06:59 GMT
>> Try two passes of a laser cutter 1/64" apart..oh the sheer JOY of it.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> bet the router table would add some precision, too.  Just like a hinge
> mortice, little deeper.  Thanks for the idea!!!!!

The only question I might have is the weakening of the rear 'spar' of the
surface.  When you create the hinge hole, there is a top and bottom spar
section that is not damaged from root to tip.  Both parts of this spar
section (top and bottom ) carries load.  The rabbit idea sounds good but it
sacrifices one of those spar sections.  YMMV
Ted Campanelli - 29 Mar 2008 19:24 GMT
Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not
so great) words of knowledge:

>>> Try two passes of a laser cutter 1/64" apart..oh the sheer JOY of it.
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> section (top and bottom ) carries load.  The rabbit idea sounds good but it
> sacrifices one of those spar sections.  YMMV

If you are that concerned about the "weakening" of the TE spar, CA a
1/8" wide strip of carbon fiber to the back of the spar.  If the spar
breaks/fails after that, it was A LOT MORE than just a hinge hole that
caused the failure.
The Natural Philosopher - 30 Mar 2008 11:47 GMT
> Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not
> so great) words of knowledge:
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> breaks/fails after that, it was A LOT MORE than just a hinge hole that
> caused the failure.

That's why you glue th bit of balsa over the top..;)
The Natural Philosopher - 29 Mar 2008 10:56 GMT
>> Try two passes of a laser cutter 1/64" apart..oh the sheer JOY of it.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> table saw, jointer, drill press and planer! Almost as good as a light
> saber!

Around $15000 for a basic machine. Maybe less.

>    Never thought about cutting a rabbit, then filling back in.  I'll
> bet the router table would add some precision, too.  Just like a hinge
> mortice, little deeper.  Thanks for the idea!!!!!

Even centre hinged stiff can be made by using two half trailng edges,
notched and glued back together.

Once you start seeing complex cutting as essentially 'free' the whole
way of designing parts changes.

Self jigging egg crate structures, holes in sheet to save weight,
complex parts that come together with exactly placed holes for
snakes..totally correct servo trays..

Instead of fighting balsa with tools, one fights the CAD program with a
mouse..

The resultant jigsaw puzzle is unbelievably quick to assemble, and
usually only needs a belt sand to finish off.

If your CAD is good enough the laser companies set up is really pretty
low. One offs are not that expensive.

I am in the fortunate position of being able to drive over, and watch
the cut..any gross mistakes can be corrected whilst there, more or less.

Highly recommended for the CAD literate.

YMMV, as always.
 
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