Denatured Alcohol for fuel?
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RogerN - 15 Apr 2009 04:32 GMT Is the denatured alcohol sold at hardware stores the same stuff you would use to blend your own fuel? I'm wondering because I have some 30% heli fuel with high oil content that I'd like to cut to maybe 15% to 20% with a lower oil content for model cars.
RogerN
Ed Cregger - 15 Apr 2009 04:54 GMT > Is the denatured alcohol sold at hardware stores the same stuff you would > use to blend your own fuel? I'm wondering because I have some 30% heli > fuel with high oil content that I'd like to cut to maybe 15% to 20% with a > lower oil content for model cars. > > RogerN It depends upon the other compounds included in the gallon of ethanol. Without a statement verifying a low water content, I don't think I would bother trying to use it.
On the other hand, if you have a fueling station selling automotive ethanol, that might be worth a try. Our local station that sells E85 is fifteen miles away and it sells for less than 87 octane gasoline (10% ethanol). I'm planning on buying some when I get over that way with the appropriate fuel container. E100 would be more attractive, but the E85 (15% gasoline) would be worth a try. I don't think that we will have any problem burning E85 with a standard glow plug.
One fellow I know who is in the know said that you can mix Klotz Techniplate with E85 ethanol based motor fuel without having mixing problems. You still have to use as much oil as you would have to with methanol (17% to 25%).
Ed Cregger
RogerN - 15 Apr 2009 05:29 GMT >> Is the denatured alcohol sold at hardware stores the same stuff you would >> use to blend your own fuel? I'm wondering because I have some 30% heli [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > Ed Cregger There is a small ethanol plant opening up in the area. They built the plant when gasoline was over $4 per gallon so I doubt they are doing very well right now. Anyway they might be interested in selling me a small quantity of ethanol for trying out for model airplane fuel. If it worked out I wouldn't mind purchasing enough ethanol, oils, and nitromethane to supply model fuel for the local area, they might even be interested in getting into the model fuel business themselves since gasoline prices dropped.
I looked up info on the internet and there are suppliers for home fuel ethanol production. They have something they call a microsieve that takes water out of alcohol and is reusable. I thought if I could experiment with Wal-Mart denatured alcohol it would be worth a try to blend my own.
RogerN
M-M - 15 Apr 2009 10:06 GMT > Is the denatured alcohol sold at hardware stores the same stuff you would > use to blend your own fuel? I'm wondering because I have some 30% heli fuel > with high oil content that I'd like to cut to maybe 15% to 20% with a lower > oil content for model cars. Model airplane fuels use methanol. Denatured alcohol is only part methanol.
 Signature m-m http://www.mhmyers.com
RogerN - 15 Apr 2009 12:52 GMT >> Is the denatured alcohol sold at hardware stores the same stuff you would >> use to blend your own fuel? I'm wondering because I have some 30% heli [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Model airplane fuels use methanol. Denatured alcohol is only part > methanol. If I understand correctly, methanol is wood alcohol and denatured alcohol is grain alcohol, i.e. ethanol. I think from what I've read, they take drinkable ethanol and poison it to make it non-drinkable and sell it as denatured alcohol. The ethanol plant in the area told me they have to mix a certain percent gasoline in their alcohol, to make it not drinkable, before they sell it. Perhaps Methanol is used in model fuel because you can get it pure since it's not suitable for drinking.
If ethanol would work for model fuel, a person can get a legal still and get about 3 gallons of ethanol per bushel of corn. It comes out of the still about 96% IIRC and then run it through a microsieve to remove the remaining water. Anyway, there is a small ethanol plant about 20 miles or so from here. If ethanol would make good model fuel maybe they could sell me some pure if I added nitromethane and/or oil before they let me have it.
The reason for my question is that I have some 30% heli fuel with 22% oil content that I would like to cut to maybe 15% oil to use in model cars, if denatured alcohol would work.
RogerN
M-M - 15 Apr 2009 15:37 GMT > If I understand correctly, methanol is wood alcohol and denatured alcohol is > grain alcohol, i.e. ethanol. I think from what I've read, they take [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > they sell it. Perhaps Methanol is used in model fuel because you can get it > pure since it's not suitable for drinking. Methanol is the cleanest burning alcohol. Everything else leaves residue.
 Signature m-m http://www.mhmyers.com
Ed Cregger - 16 Apr 2009 03:39 GMT >>> Is the denatured alcohol sold at hardware stores the same stuff you >>> would [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > RogerN Why not just go to a drag racing store and buy some racing methanol? Then you won't have to worry about compatibility issues chemically.
I did buy a gallon of universal thinner at the hardware store once, which turned out to be mostly methanol, according to the label. I mixed it with a quart of castor oil and the engines started and ran just fine. This was back when flying control line, so there were no throttling issues to test.
Ed Cregger
RogerN - 16 Apr 2009 04:52 GMT >>>> Is the denatured alcohol sold at hardware stores the same stuff you >>>> would [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > > Ed Cregger I'm trying to find a drag racing store in the area to see if I can buy some methanol. I have found a place around 50 miles away, I e-mailed them to get a price on methanol and nitromethane. I can get oils online without the hazmat charge (I hope). Anyway I don't like paying $32 per gallon of 20% RC car fuel and I'd like to use up some of my heli fuel. I have a small flying area now and it's more suitable for my small electrics than the 60 glow fuel heli's.
Thanks for the info! RogerN
# 42 - 16 Apr 2009 04:35 GMT > Is the denatured alcohol sold at hardware stores the same stuff you would > use to blend your own fuel? I'm wondering because I have some 30% heli > fuel with high oil content that I'd like to cut to maybe 15% to 20% with a > lower oil content for model cars. > > RogerN Denatured alcohol is ethanol alcohol with a denaturing agent ( some sort of poison) added to make it unfit to drink. Still it's basically ethanol alcohol. The glow plug equipped engines that we all know and love require methanol. That's because the ignition of the fuel is caused by a reaction between the methanol and the platinum in the glow plug wire element. It is this reaction that causes the fuel to combust and the engine to run. Simply stated, the engine won't run on ethanol (denatured alcohol) because ethanol doesn't react with the platinum in the glow plug. It just won't work.
RogerN - 16 Apr 2009 04:42 GMT >> Is the denatured alcohol sold at hardware stores the same stuff you would >> use to blend your own fuel? I'm wondering because I have some 30% heli [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > ethanol doesn't react with the platinum in the glow plug. It just won't > work. Thanks, that's what I was wanting to know. I knew there was something with the platinum in the glow plug that causes combustion but I didn't know if it worked with only methanol or also ethanol.
RogerN
M-M - 16 Apr 2009 04:44 GMT > Simply > stated, the engine won't run on ethanol (denatured alcohol) because ethanol > doesn't react with the platinum in the glow plug. It just won't work. I have run an engine on denatured alcohol- just briefly and by accident.
I was cleaning it and for some reason I attached a glow igniter- with barely a flip of the prop it started right up- just burning the alcohol in the carb and cylinder head- there was no fuel line connected.
Denatured alcohol has methanol in it.
 Signature m-m http://www.mhmyers.com
# 42 - 16 Apr 2009 05:22 GMT >> Simply >> stated, the engine won't run on ethanol (denatured alcohol) because [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Denatured alcohol has methanol in it. With the glow plug being heated by the igniter, the engine would probably run on a multitude of fuels. But to run _normally_, there needs to be methanol in the fuel, ethanol just ain't going to do it. As I understand it, the platinum acts as a catalyst causing the methanol to react with oxygen, i.e. burn.
RogerN - 16 Apr 2009 14:50 GMT >>> Simply >>> stated, the engine won't run on ethanol (denatured alcohol) because [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > it, the platinum acts as a catalyst causing the methanol to react with > oxygen, i.e. burn. I looked up denatured alcohol and found out one way they can denature/poison it is by mixing in methanol. There is a drag strip and a race track in the area, if I can find a methanol supply in the area then I'll be set. I just thought if I could use denatured alcohol then I already knew I could get it from Wal-Mart or the hardware store.
I thought I could buy a gallon of 30%, some klotz oil, and some methanol, and mix up 3 gallons of 10% or 2 gallons of 15%. If I can mix 3 gallons from $30 worth of fuel, $10 in oil, and less than $10 methanol, I can have 3 gallons of 10% for $50 without the hazmat fee. Actually I'm considering something more like buying 50% nitro and stretching it with Klotz and methanol.
RogerN
Ray Haddad - 16 Apr 2009 20:55 GMT >I thought I could buy a gallon of 30% Do you have any idea what the other 70% is? Take a guess. Hint: It doesn't burn. -- Ray
RogerN - 16 Apr 2009 21:54 GMT >>I thought I could buy a gallon of 30% > > Do you have any idea what the other 70% is? Take a guess. > Hint: It doesn't burn. > -- > Ray My 30% Cool Power is supposed to be 30% nitro, 22% oil, and the rest methanol. I'm guessing you thought I meant a gallon of 30% methanol with 70% water? For my model car sport fuel I thought I might try 10% nitro, 16% oil (may be revised between now and then, some use 9% oil in racing), and the remainder methanol.
RogerN
Ray Haddad - 16 Apr 2009 23:03 GMT >>>I thought I could buy a gallon of 30% >> [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >oil (may be revised between now and then, some use 9% oil in racing), and >the remainder methanol. Yes, I was referring to alcohol versus fuel. The 90% alcohol you get at a drug store, when opened, immediately becomes 87% just from being opened to the air. The longer you leave it open, the faster the alcohol evaporates. Within hours, you will find yourself at the 56% point which is where it seems the surface tension of the water can and will keep most of the alcohol from evaporating. The 30% alcohol is often used on those pads that doctors use to wipe your arm before you get the needle. The mix is such that the alcohol will stay in solution a long time. But there's heaps of water in the mix.
I've been following this thread with interest. I wouldn't advise using alcohol in model two stroke engines. What happens inside the engine is that the water in suspension in the fuel can cause a rapid expansion inside the chamber and actually crack a head. When people leave their weed whacker outside and moisture gets into the two stroke gas mix, the same thing often happens. You must be very careful when you introduce water into your fuel mix. Try experimenting with an old but serviceable engine that starts easily. The first thing that you will notice is that starting is very, very hard when you add alcohol. That's due to the water in the fuel/air mix. Unavoidable. -- Ray
bm459@scn.org - 16 Apr 2009 15:50 GMT > > use to blend your own fuel? I'm wondering because I have some 30% heli > > fuel with high oil content that I'd like to cut to maybe 15% to 20% with a [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > stated, the engine won't run on ethanol (denatured alcohol) because ethanol > doesn't react with the platinum in the glow plug. It just won't work. A glo plug will work just fine with ethanol. It will also work just fine with acetone or lots and lots of other light organics. That catalyst on the wire is NOT specific to methanol. In fact with acetone you do not even need a precious metal. A high temp copper alloy wire would be fully adequate. Something like monel for instance.
The reason glo engines use methanol as fuel is all engines run on heat. So the more BTUs of fuel air mix you can stuff into the cylinder per combustion cycle the more power you get out of the engine. It is simple high school chemistry to calculate if ethanol is as good as methanol and it is not. Nor is acetone. But your engine will run on either of them. You might have to change the compression ratio a little to get optimum performance from alternate fuels. The small amount of water in denatured ethanol is irrelevant. The only thing that matters is you must not have so much water in the fuel that it causes the oil to separate. If the oil stays in solution the water makes no meaningful difference. In fact tests on methanol based fuels show slightly increased performance with a few % of water in the fuel. Those test results were published in one of the model mags a few years ago.
So bottom line is if you do not mind giving up a little power lots of alternate fuels will work just fine. But every one of them will cost you power vs methanol.
Now, if you do not want to give up power you could experiment with real high nitro content ethanol. But the cost of the nitro will drive the fuel cost higher then methanol based fuel so why bother? You could also look at burning anhydrous hydrazine and get more power than methanol based fuels. Of course it is going to eat up your engine pretty fast. Still, you might get an hour or two out of it before it was totalled. Liquid ammonia is another possibility. Same corrosion problem and you also are dealing with a fuel tank under 40 or 50 psig. Acetylene would be another logical choice. Now you are dealing with a possible explosion if you do not know how to handle the stuff.
Bottom line is methanol is the best overall practical choice for max power output, ease of use, life of equipment and user safety. If there was a better choice the fuel manufacturers would be selling it.
M-M - 17 Apr 2009 02:23 GMT In article <df533d33-484d-4f0f-b3c7-98f8e3b3eaa5@r36g2000vbr.googlegroups.com>,
> It is simple high school chemistry to calculate if ethanol is > as good as methanol and it is not. Easier than calculating is to burn it in an alcohol lamp. Methanol burns with a pure blue almost invisible flame. Denatured alcohol or anything else burns with yellow in the flame.
 Signature m-m http://www.mhmyers.com
bm459@scn.org - 18 Apr 2009 02:05 GMT > In article > <df533d33-484d-4f0f-b3c7-98f8e3b3e...@r36g2000vbr.googlegroups.com>, [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > -- > m-mhttp://www.mhmyers.com Flame color is totally irrelevant. ie meaningless.
M-M - 18 Apr 2009 06:41 GMT In article <f8bd9aad-1bcf-4db7-a5c1-87f7ba37a207@b16g2000yqb.googlegroups.com>,
> > Easier than calculating is to burn it in an alcohol lamp. Methanol burns > > with a pure blue almost invisible flame. Denatured alcohol or anything > > else burns with yellow in the flame.
> Flame color is totally irrelevant. ie meaningless. That's not what I was taught in school. Yellow means it's not burning completely, leaving residue behind.
 Signature m-m http://www.mhmyers.com
bm459@scn.org - 19 Apr 2009 00:02 GMT > In article > <f8bd9aad-1bcf-4db7-a5c1-87f7ba37a...@b16g2000yqb.googlegroups.com>, [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > -- > m-mhttp://www.mhmyers.com What you were taught in school is more or less correct about why a flame is yellow. The yellow flame is either due to tiny carbon particles heated to incandescent temperatures or due to tiny amounts of sodium in the fuel that is flourescing. This has absolutely nothing at all to do with the value of any given fuel in an engine. In fact many very high energy density fuels burn quite yellow under any other then near perfect conditions. Some will burn yellow under perfect conditions. While other totally miserable fuels will burn very blue or even colorless under a fairly wide range of conditions. Flame color is 100% meaningless with respect to how much power you are going to get out of an internal combustion engine from that fuel. If you want to know how much energy to expect from a fuel you either do the simple high school calculations or you live in a dream world. No one is going to beat the laws of thermodynamics. Engines run on heat not color.
M-M - 19 Apr 2009 07:16 GMT In article <aaf186a6-665c-4a13-a524-084c56843222@v15g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>,
> Flame color is 100% meaningless with respect to how much power you are > going to get out of an internal combustion engine from that fuel. I was not talking about power. I was saying alcohols other than methanol leave residue.
 Signature m-m http://www.mhmyers.com
RogerN - 19 Apr 2009 12:41 GMT > In article > <aaf186a6-665c-4a13-a524-084c56843222@v15g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>, [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I was not talking about power. I was saying alcohols other than methanol > leave residue. That makes sense but what I've found so far is that methanol and ethanol seem to be similar in price but ethanol is what they add to our gasoline. I haven't found a place listing prices of a drum or ethanol and a drum of methanol for comparison though.
On a side note, I found a store selling 4 packs of Heet gas line antifreeze (Methanol), just under $5 for 48 oz. Expensive but still cheaper than model fuel, if I can't find Methanol locally, I could stretch my heli fuel to car fuel that way. I'd like to go from my 22% oil synthetic to maybe 14% synthetic and add 2% castor, my engine recommends 16% oil.
RogerN
MJKolodziej - 19 Apr 2009 17:50 GMT >> In article >> <aaf186a6-665c-4a13-a524-084c56843222@v15g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>, [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > RogerN The question in my mind is: Which costs more in parts, a Heli or a buggy? I know the LHS owner makes money from both. Let us know.
:) mk
RogerN - 19 Apr 2009 19:37 GMT <snip>
>> On a side note, I found a store selling 4 packs of Heet gas line >> antifreeze (Methanol), just under $5 for 48 oz. Expensive but still [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > :) > mk If I understand correctly, buggy fuel should be from around 9% to 16% oil and the helicopter fuel has 22% oil. It is supposed to be because the buggy is speeding and slowing from corner to corner whereas heli's and planes engines are producing power more constantly. My original thought was to just burn heli fuel in the buggy since I have some gallons that are getting old. I mostly fly heli's around home these days and the small battery operated heli's get the most flying. If I could find some methanol I could remix my 30% nitro, 22% oil heli fuel to be more suitable for the buggy. The Heli has more $$$ in parts but heli and buggy engines are in a similar price range.
RogerN
bm459@scn.org - 19 Apr 2009 15:02 GMT > In article > <aaf186a6-665c-4a13-a524-084c56843...@v15g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>, [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > -- > m-mhttp://www.mhmyers.com Bullshit
M-M - 20 Apr 2009 05:20 GMT In article <dddc746a-6576-42fc-a9ca-6fb0bfcba440@f19g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
> > In article > > <aaf186a6-665c-4a13-a524-084c56843...@v15g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>, [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > I was not talking about power. I was saying alcohols other than methanol > > leave residue.
> Bullshit Hold a glass over a methanol flame and then a denatured alcohol flame and see which one leaves soot.
 Signature m-m http://www.mhmyers.com
RogerN - 20 Apr 2009 12:20 GMT > In article > <dddc746a-6576-42fc-a9ca-6fb0bfcba440@f19g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>, [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Hold a glass over a methanol flame and then a denatured alcohol flame > and see which one leaves soot. But wouldn't a gasoline fire even be worse? In searching around on the internet, one reason they want to use methanol in race cars is in case there is a fire, it doesn't block the other drivers vision. On the other hand, with the right fuel to air ratio gasoline makes an acceptable motor fuel. Also on an oxygen acetylene torch, the acetylene sends a lot of soot into the air until you turn on the oxygen. This has me wondering if the ethanol burns with a yellow flame due to incorrect air/fuel ratio? No doubt that methanol is the alcohol of choice since ethanol is so widely available and possibly cheaper than methanol. But on the other hand ethanol plants were being built when gasoline was over $4 per gallon, it should be an acceptable motor fuel.
RogerN
bm459@scn.org - 21 Apr 2009 03:47 GMT > > In article > > <dddc746a-6576-42fc-a9ca-6fb0bfcba...@f19g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>, [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Actually the lowest cost way to make ethanol is from crude oil. You crack the crude to ethylene and hydrate the ethylene. That is how industrial grade ethanol is made. Fermentation is mandated by law as the way ethanol must be produced for additive to gasoline. It is illegal to use the cheap stuff to produce as a gasoline additive. It only survives at all in the market place due to the huge government subsidies handed out to the fuel ethanol producers. So if you buy ethanol for anything other then adding to gasoline or drinking is more then likely is not made by fermentation.
bm459@scn.org - 21 Apr 2009 03:38 GMT > In article > <dddc746a-6576-42fc-a9ca-6fb0bfcba...@f19g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>, [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > -- > m-mhttp://www.mhmyers.com Totally irrelevant bullshit by someone who has no clue. That soot has nothing at all to do with what happens in a properly running engine. Of course that assumes you get any soot from denatured ethanol in such a totally meaningless test. A miserable assumption to start with. It all depends on what it is denatured with.
If you did the same test with model fuel you would also get soot from the oil in the fuel. So I suppose that means we should all carefully run fuel that contains no oil?
The simple fact is ethanol is a perfectly good fuel in glo engines. It will not harm engine life a bit. A standard glo plug will work just fine. It has been used as engine fuel many times. It has no greater propensity to pick up water from the air then methanol has. It has a slightly higher flash point making it slightly safer to use. It is also less toxic so the fumes you breath are slightly less dangerous. Not that methanol is all that toxic in view of the fact that your own body makes a bit of methanol every day all by itself. You just do not get quite as much power from the engine running on ethanol as you get from methanol. That is the only reason model fuels are made from methanol.
RogerN - 16 Apr 2009 22:12 GMT Just wondering how "Choose your own blend" would work for clubs? A club could buy a drum of Methanol, a few gallons of Nitro, castor and synthetic oil. Out of that they could mix FAI, 10% sport fuel, heli fuel, high nitro, all synthetic, all castor, or mix synthetic and castor... all the popular mixes + club members could design their own custom mixes if they wanted. Club members could buy the fuel they liked the best or be able to buy the components to brew their own "secret" blends.
Just a thought, seems better than buying a drum of one kind of fuel to try to fit everybody.
RogerN
Tom Minger - 17 Apr 2009 01:51 GMT It's been my experience that mixing your own, even with buddies involved to split up expenses is not cost effective when you factor in the mess and trouble. A 55 gal drum of menthol would require about 15 gallons of oil and about the same in nitro (in 5 gal buckets). Then you have the storing/moving the big drum around, mixing, minimizing exposure to air, getting 85 - 90 bottles, getting rid of the drums, etc, etc. Much better to buy as you need it and eat the extra bucks a gallon. In addition, most commercial fuels have other additives that don't normally get added in home brews.
If you are trying to dilute down a high nitro bottle of fuel, the easiest way is to buy a gallon(s) of FAI (0 percent nitro) or 5% and blend together as needed to get the reduction you want. Prolly would not have to bother with buying extra oil, bottles or mixing equipment.
Just a thought......
Tom
> Just wondering how "Choose your own blend" would work for clubs? A club > could buy a drum of Methanol, a few gallons of Nitro, castor and synthetic [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > RogerN MJKolodziej - 17 Apr 2009 02:35 GMT > It's been my experience that mixing your own, even with buddies involved > to split up expenses is not cost effective when you factor in the mess and [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Tom I think he was trying to lower the OIL % for cars. mk
RogerN - 04 May 2009 02:15 GMT I looked around and was able to locate a person selling methanol locally. I bought a drum of 99% methanol for $80. I'm planning to get some gallon jugs and mix methanol and oil, fill the jugs 3/4 full and add a quart of 40% nitro fuel to get a gallon of 10% fuel. Since I probably won't be running through a drum of methanol right away I'm thinking I need to make a desiccant air dryer to use for the drum vent. Since some clubs purchase bulk fuel, I thought someone might have some tips or recommendations for mixing, pumps, keeping fuel fresh, etc. Thanks
RogerN
Vance Howard - 04 May 2009 02:44 GMT > I looked around and was able to locate a person selling methanol locally. I > bought a drum of 99% methanol for $80. I'm planning to get some gallon jugs [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > RogerN You would be better off getting enough gallon jugs together to mix all the methanol with oil and nitro. Leave very little air in the top of the jugs, seal them, and store in a cool, dark place.
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Martin X. Moleski, SJ - 04 May 2009 05:43 GMT >I looked around and was able to locate a person selling methanol locally. I >bought a drum of 99% methanol for $80. I'm planning to get some gallon jugs [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >bulk fuel, I thought someone might have some tips or recommendations for >mixing, pumps, keeping fuel fresh, etc. A friend of mine who inherited a drum of methanol used nitrogen to pump the stuff out as needed.
He's an engineer who worked on oil pipelines, so he knew how to handle the plumbing and keep things safe.
I don't know what kind of fittings you'd need to do the same or what the relevant safety issues might be.
Good luck!
Marty
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Morgans - 05 May 2009 02:48 GMT > A friend of mine who inherited a drum of methanol > used nitrogen to pump the stuff out as needed. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > do the same or what the relevant safety issues > might be. Key would be the strength of the container. If it is in a steel barrel, not as big an issue than if it is in a plastic barrel. Steel would deal with the pressure much better. I don't trust plastic, since it could split at the seams where the two piece molds close.
After that, a quality pressure regulator to keep pressure in control.
Also, he said something in one of his early posts about a dessicant for the vent. A much better solution would be using dry gas like nitrogen for makeup air, at least, even if it was not being used for pressurizing the container for forcing the methanol out.
Did that make any sense?
 Signature Jim in NC
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