So I want to get a helicopter....
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Pete - 16 Mar 2006 22:15 GMT Hi
So, yep, been reading the articles (dating back to 2003), read a mag ;-) but still have one burning question. As everybody says, the heli i want is the one which does the stuff I want to do with it.
I want to learn to fly em. Pure and simple. Dont want to do 3d just yet, that will come with money. Sorry, ment experiance ;-)
What I would like to know is which heli is the most common, I hear everybody talking about the raptor. What i mean by common, is available parts and parts at a reasonable price. If there is such a beast.
The local shops around here dont do IC so im planning to go to Worthing, er... west essex model shop ? at the weekend, but would like to go kind of armed with questions and some knowledge and ideas of what im after...
so, what do you think ? Im not interested in how hard it is to fly (ok lieing) as im going to crash, I know I will, have done so many times with the hummingbird I got just after christmas... But what I am interested in is getting back up and fly worthy again as soon as posible.
Another question is - If i take BFMA insurance out, does that allow me to fly where I want - with permission of the land owner ??
Cheers Pete
davidnyuspri@yahoo.com - 16 Mar 2006 22:18 GMT You can consider the esky Lama 2 or Blade CX - check this flying movie to see how it fly: http://www.linknety.com/modevideos/demo/zoom.php?id=14
Both helicopters are easy to fly and it is designed for beginner.
Pete - 16 Mar 2006 22:26 GMT >You can consider the esky Lama 2 or Blade CX - check this flying movie >to see how it fly: >http://www.linknety.com/modevideos/demo/zoom.php?id=14 > >Both helicopters are easy to fly and it is designed for beginner. Hi,
Yep, got a hummingbird v3 indoor - they guy in the shop said its rearly easy to fly too ;-) almost paid the cost of a raptor in spare parts ;-)
Beav - 18 Mar 2006 00:16 GMT > You can consider the esky Lama 2 or Blade CX - check this flying movie > to see how it fly: > http://www.linknety.com/modevideos/demo/zoom.php?id=14 > > Both helicopters are easy to fly and it is designed for beginner. And they'll teach you as much about flying a "real" model heli as driving a car will.
 Signature Beav OMF#19 VN 750 Zed Thou
mail is beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com (with the obvious changes)
Nigel Heather - 16 Mar 2006 23:39 GMT Whereabouts in West Sussex are you?
I live in Horsham and after many years of fixed wing have recently made the move into rotary.
I know SMC well - excellent for fixed wing but not so great for rotary.
A few important points that I have learnt over the last year or so
(i) The little indoor jobs are not a good place to start. They are actually hard to fly, much harder than a Raptor for example. There only benefit in my opinion is that you can use them indoors - but you will quickly find how small your house is.
(ii) You are going to need help - so find a club first. Visit the club and find out what they fly. I started off with a Century Hawk - I still think it was a very good heli and better than a Raptor in some respects. But I was alone in a club of Raptors. I found that help was less abundant because
(a) They didn't have first hand experience with the Hawk (b) I couldn't make use of the abundant spares that helpful club mates have (c) Not sure about this one - but I felt that I had shunned them by going against their recommendation.
So I sold my perfectly good Hawk and bought a Raptor - which I really happy with and now one of the club
(iii) Helis are expensive to start with - make sure you price everything up (I'd guess around £750). Watch out for the 'buy cheap, buy twice' problem.
(iv) I came from fixed wing so helis seemed extremely expensive. However, it is not as bad as it first looks. The reason is that one heli can be your trainer, intermediate, expert, 3D, scale - its mostly a matter of how you set it up. So you can get away with one heli from beginner to 3D whereas you would need at least three aircraft to do the same in fixed wing.
(v) Be prepared to crash and the cost of repairs (I gather you already have experience with the Hummingbird). You won't crash an IC heli anywhere near as often but it will happen and can be expensive. Having come from fixed wing I still have difficulty with this - with fixed wing many crashes are free (just some glue and solarfilm) but with Helis there is no option but to buy new parts.
(vi) Buy or try a simulator first - see if are going to like it or have the aptitude.
(vii) You can save a lot of money by knowing where to buy from - SMC is not the right answer.
As for recommendations - you can't go far wrong with a Raptor 30 V2.
This is assuming you want to go the IC (Internal Combustion) route. I still think it is the most accessible way to go but electrics (the bigger ones - not the hummingbirds) are gaining pace and becoming a viable alternative.
Cheers,
Nigel
Pete - 17 Mar 2006 07:43 GMT >Whereabouts in West Sussex are you? er... southampton ;-) willing to travel ...
>I live in Horsham and after many years of fixed wing have recently made the >move into rotary. Ah, I have always wanted to fly heli - the "flying camera" always appealed to me.. went to fixed wing becasue it was cheaper at the time...
>I know SMC well - excellent for fixed wing but not so great for rotary. Anybody know of any good shops around the south coast?
>A few important points that I have learnt over the last year or so > >(i) The little indoor jobs are not a good place to start. They are actually >hard to fly, much harder than a Raptor for example. There only benefit in >my opinion is that you can use them indoors - but you will quickly find how >small your house is. hehe agree there.
>(ii) You are going to need help - so find a club first. Visit the club and >find out what they fly. I started off with a Century Hawk - I still think [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >So I sold my perfectly good Hawk and bought a Raptor - which I really happy >with and now one of the club The club i visited, just north of fareham, flew just about everything - it seemed... but saw a few raptors
>(iii) Helis are expensive to start with - make sure you price everything up >(I'd guess around £750). Watch out for the 'buy cheap, buy twice' problem. Yeah, this is why im going for a full sized model... alreay spent around £90 on the hummingbird where the kit costs 85 :-)
>(iv) I came from fixed wing so helis seemed extremely expensive. However, >it is not as bad as it first looks. The reason is that one heli can be your [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >free (just some glue and solarfilm) but with Helis there is no option but to >buy new parts. Yep, prepaired for this, but was wondering which heli cost the least to fix, at least while im training...
>(vi) Buy or try a simulator first - see if are going to like it or have the >aptitude. FMS - waiting for a compatable contrller :-) thinking about getting at least the radio this weekend so I can start praticeing...
>(vii) You can save a lot of money by knowing where to buy from - SMC is not >the right answer. Any suggestions ? please ?
>As for recommendations - you can't go far wrong with a Raptor 30 V2. Cool, thats what i was thinking but wanted someone to say.
>This is assuming you want to go the IC (Internal Combustion) route. I still >think it is the most accessible way to go but electrics (the bigger ones - >not the hummingbirds) are gaining pace and becoming a viable alternative. Oh yeah, the smell, cleaning the model after playing... the noise...
wouldnt go for anything else :-)
>Cheers, > >Nigel Thanks for your comments... Pete.
nigel@the-heathers.nildram.co.uk - 17 Mar 2006 09:35 GMT Southampton - sorry assumed you were in West Sussex - I grew up in Southhampton and my parents still live there so I know the area pretty well - still quite a distance from Horsham though.
I think IC is the way to go too. You can go for a 30 class Raptor. You need a reliable engine and since they are not as accessible as with fixed wing you don't want to have to fiddle. At the end of the day I've found that people who go for OS have less problems. In OS you have two choices - 32 or 37. It you can stretch to the extra £££ go for the 37. Helis aren't like fixed wing - bigger engine means they go faster - it just means there is more power when you need it - less chance of the engine bogging down - and of course when you become more experienced, more power for those extreme stunts.
In terms of cost of spares. None are cheap but Raptors and Hawks are about the cheapest and Raptors are by far the most available. You will also find that because Raptors are the most common you will find many more 3rd party products then any other heli.
Radio - if you are buying one then make sure it is a Heli radio. There is argument that PCM is a must for helis. I'm not convinced and was happy to fly on FM and never experienced any problems. Having said that I have now switched to PCM because of peer pressure from the club members - PCM is sort of an unwritten rule there.
Clubs - try to find a heli club if at all possible. Fixed wing and helis don't seem to mix. The owners don't seem to like each other. The flying patterns of each seem to conflict. In mixed clubs you will usually find helis are a minority - there is less help and if it hasn't happened already you will find that rules will get introduced to limit heli flying more and more. My fixed wing club started of as friendly, mixed, fly anything - helis are now only permitted two 1 hours sessions per week. I feel I can make these observations because I am still very much into fixed and rotary wing. I'm a member of two clubs and feel I can sit outside and view the actions of both with impartial independence.
Learning alone - I won't say its not possible because many have done it - and if you have a private flying site nearby that can be worth its weight in gold - because flying hours and fuel are by far the best upgrades for your heli. But setting up a heli does need some thought and going alone will almost certainly involve more crashes than if you get help.
BMFA Insurance - I beleive that you are covered to fly anywhere if you have the landowners permission and it doesn't contravine local bylaws or national laws (like airport airspace etc). So if you have a friendly farmer that should be no problem. Avoid public spaces - one you will probably find that the council will deny you had permission in the event of an accident and two, you will find that any empty public space becomes filled with children who appear from nowhere as soon as you start up. Apart from the danger it is very off-putting when you are trying to learn.
Shops - I'm afraid that in all the general model shops I have visited - SMC, Mick Charles, Slough, North West Models, HobbyStores etc - helis seem to play second fiddle. They probably all stock Raptor and the main parts but ultimately you will end up dealing through mail order for spares.
Heli specific shops are best - for variety and advice - but I don't know of any close to you. Two worth mentioning are
Skyline - www.skylinemodels.co.uk Midland - www.modelhelicopters.co.uk
Prices - generally there is little movement from RRP though you can usually drive deals if buying a starter package. In the UK we pay much more than US and Asia (upto double) so overseas mail order is quite common. I've not done this but I do have a couple of UK contacts who import and sell direct from the UK (this covers Raptor, OS and Futaba).
If you have a specific package in mind or want suggestions I would be happy to advise.
Cheers,
Nigel
Pete - 17 Mar 2006 21:51 GMT >Southampton - sorry assumed you were in West Sussex - I grew up in >Southhampton and my parents still live there so I know the area pretty >well - still quite a distance from Horsham though. > >I think IC is the way to go too. You can go for a 30 class Raptor. Mainly plaines and trains do the raptor30, i want to get a kit and build from nothing so I can get a "feel" for how it goes together..
>In terms of cost of spares. None are cheap but Raptors and Hawks are >about the cheapest and Raptors are by far the most available. hum, also available at mainly plaines and trains..
>Radio - if you are buying one then make sure it is a Heli radio. There >is argument that PCM is a must for helis. I'm not convinced and was >happy to fly on FM and never experienced any problems. Having said >that I have now switched to PCM because of peer pressure from the club >members - PCM is sort of an unwritten rule there. Ok, confused... I just brought a JR x2610, it says FM but it also has PCM settings... or PPM ? What is the difference ?
>Clubs - try to find a heli club if at all possible. Fixed wing and >helis don't seem to mix. The owners don't seem to like each other. >The flying patterns of each seem to conflict. In mixed clubs you will >usually find helis are a minority - there is less help and if it hasn't >happened already you will find that rules will get introduced to limit >heli flying more and more. Yep, the F-wing club i use to be a member of did at one time have heli's but I felt the feeling wasnt pro heli, having different landing techneique etc...
>Learning alone - I won't say its not possible because many have done it >- and if you have a private flying site nearby that can be worth its >weight in gold - because flying hours and fuel are by far the best >upgrades for your heli. But setting up a heli does need some thought >and going alone will almost certainly involve more crashes than if you >get help. I know a man who knows a man who knows........ who has a field.. And i have heard that there is some guy in Swindon who teaches flying at £30(ish) per hour... Might join the local club for the social side, have a few lessons, and make use of the field.
>BMFA Insurance - I beleive that you are covered to fly anywhere if you >have the landowners permission and it doesn't contravine local bylaws [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >you start up. Apart from the danger it is very off-putting when you >are trying to learn. Oh yeah, been there with my hummy, with in 5 minutes of finding a nice clear space, we had 4 kids watching. The park flyer I have is great fun for that also :-)
>Shops - I'm afraid that in all the general model shops I have visited - >SMC, Mick Charles, Slough, North West Models, HobbyStores etc - helis >seem to play second fiddle. They probably all stock Raptor and the >main parts but ultimately you will end up dealing through mail order >for spares. Already do this for my hummy...
>Heli specific shops are best - for variety and advice - but I don't >know of any close to you. Two worth mentioning are [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >common. I've not done this but I do have a couple of UK contacts who >import and sell direct from the UK (this covers Raptor, OS and Futaba). yeah, the tx I got, is £2 less via net (not inc P+P), the parts i have got for my hummy is also around the same price except for P+P
>If you have a specific package in mind or want suggestions I would be >happy to advise. Yep, heli, tx ;-)
Thanks for your advise, it is rearly appreciated...
>Cheers, > >Nigel Nigel Heather - 17 Mar 2006 22:48 GMT Raptor is by far the most common. The kits and common spares are available and pretty much every shop - but you will usually find that they don't stock some of the things you want - so don't be surprised if you have to mail order.
Yep get a kit everytime - it's important to know how it goes together because sooner or later you'll going to have to take it apart. Also, the ARTF versions are put together in sweat shops and they don't use the same care and attention that you would.
Radio - PPM and PCM are the proper names. PPM often gets called FM - this is historical from when you could only get AM and FM radios. In fact both PPM and PCM are both FM but use different encoding - put very simply PPM send the info as a pulse of differing widths whereas PCM sends it as a binary code. Being FM both can be effected by electrical noise (such as generated by electric motors or metal scraping against metal). With PPM this can result in a glitch where the intended signal gets changed to a different signal which effects the heli flight. With PCM the glitches are still there but because of the coding the receiver can tell that something weird has happened and ignores it. Likewise PCM can also tell when the radio signal is lost and instigate a failsafe mode. There are pros and cons to both PPM and PCM - I'm happy with either but some clubs can be a bit funny.
Not familiar with JR, but it looks like the the 2610 has both PPM and PCM - which you can use will depend on which receiver you have. BTW flight sims only work with PPM - a common mistake is that guys use PCM and compalin it isn't working.
The guy you are referring to is Paul Heckles - incredible flier and good teacher. He is good value at £30 per hour but beware that the hours and cost will mount up. I would figure on at least 3 hours to get you hovering then you can go and practice on your own. Then another 3 hours to start you on Forward Flight (FF). If you are a fast learning you may be able to take it on your own from then.
There is a guy who sells on eBay and lives in Wokingham who imports and sells Raptor kits with OS engines. I bought mine from him and he let me pick it up from his house - good guy and the saving I got was quite significant.
I have another contact who sells OS and Futaba stuff.
Does your email address work - I could send the details with a list of what other things you will need to buy or borrow.
Cheers,
Nigel
>>Southampton - sorry assumed you were in West Sussex - I grew up in >>Southhampton and my parents still live there so I know the area pretty [quoted text clipped - 79 lines] >> >>Nigel Pete - 18 Mar 2006 00:01 GMT >Raptor is by far the most common. <snip>
>Yep get a kit everytime - it's important to know how it goes together >because sooner or later you'll going to have to take it apart. Again, Richard, mainly plaines and trains, will trim up and check the build if you by from him.
>Radio - PPM and PCM are the proper names. PPM often gets called FM - this >is historical from when you could only get AM and FM radios. In fact both >PPM and PCM are both FM but use different encoding ah, right... I get it now.
>Not familiar with JR, but it looks like the the 2610 has both PPM and PCM - >which you can use will depend on which receiver you have. Hum... So, how do I tell... I got a combined - heli / plank just incase ... but I can change between pcm and ppm ... hum...
> BTW flight sims >only work with PPM - a common mistake is that guys use PCM and compalin it >isn't working. Yep, read about this already.
>The guy you are referring to is Paul Heckles Cool... found his website now... http://www.paulhecklesrc.co.uk/
>There is a guy who sells on eBay and lives in Wokingham who imports and >sells Raptor kits with OS engines. I bought mine from him and he let me >pick it up from his house - good guy and the saving I got was quite >significant. tempting, but i think, i might keep with Richard, at least he will check it over the first time to make sure its good.
>I have another contact who sells OS and Futaba stuff. > >Does your email address work - I could send the details with a list of what >other things you will need to buy or borrow. Yeah ? Cool.. thanks... email is good...
>Cheers, > >Nigel Thanks again Pete.
Mike Brophy - 20 Mar 2006 05:11 GMT I've never flown helis before last week and have my Blade CX now and am hovering and flying turns, etc. after just a week. It's the perfect starter and a very resilient aircraft. Today I had a blade fly off at about 60 ft altitude (it was a pretty beat up blade that probably wasn't airworthy) and I was able to get the heli into a controlled descent and landing with no damage. Recommend getting the training gear and a 2nd battery for sure.
Nick - 19 Mar 2006 12:35 GMT Can I suggest the best thing to do TODAY is the get the Esky flight sim.......cost me 25 quid...comes complete with dummy TX. Has the FMS flight sim which is MORE than adequate.....and download the free A109 heli, which is slowish to react. and GREAT for learning side in & nose in....and inverted ...later
:-) You will save alot of grief and dosh....plus it's feckin' freezing at the moment. Spend your time learning in the warm.......then...come the spring.......FUN time!!
Nick - 19 Mar 2006 13:58 GMT There's a load to download for free at http://babyznort.free.fr/index-fms.html . When you get FMS, try the hirobo shuttle in hanger 11....there're 3 version, one with trainers...on e normal, and another for 3D.
Good luck
> Can I suggest the best thing to do TODAY is the get the Esky flight > sim.......cost me 25 quid...comes complete with dummy TX. Has the FMS [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > moment. Spend your time learning in the warm.......then...come the > spring.......FUN time!! Nick - 19 Mar 2006 14:51 GMT Sorry...URL should be..... http://babyznort.free.fr/index-fms.htm
> There's a load to download for free at > http://babyznort.free.fr/index-fms.html . When you get FMS, try the [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >> moment. Spend your time learning in the warm.......then...come the >> spring.......FUN time!! Pete - 22 Mar 2006 07:44 GMT Well......
I went for it.
After work on Friday, I purchased a JR x2610. after 1.5 hours playing and reading manuals, i found how to change the model type to heli.
an hour later, I found how to do it again... havent tried a third time yet :-)
Saturday, a hole appeared in my trouser pocket - I was going to get a sim, a sim a sim and what did i get when i got to the shop ? a raptor 30 v2. then had to explain what the box was to the wife... hum...
Monday night, completed building the beast. No muffler, rearly on purpose... if it was 100% complete, i would play, and no doubt break...
So, after getting the missing pin for the tail rotor and the muffler, im off for a build check at the shop i got the kit from and a test flight at the club I have just joined.
The eingine is a SC. Talking to the guys at the club, they all recommended an OS32 or 39. talking to the guys at the shop, they said yep, os, good engine. get this cheap thing at half the price, because your be hovering for a long time, not far off the ground, that will pick up a lot of dust and killl the engine in a period of time. Yeah, makes sence.. so £50 engine instead of a £104 engine.
Got some training wheels. My god they are big... dont know why, but I expected something a little smaller, but thinking about it, i wish they were a little bigger ;-)
Now im in the "ah" part. Built the beast, got soooo many parts left over, little screws and bolts and washers.... like everything eh, there is always something left over and your thinking where on earth did that supposed to go... oh well.
Will let you know how the test flight went, might even video it :-)
Cheers all Pete.
RuralQLDCC - 24 Mar 2006 01:49 GMT Pete, Just my .02c, but there's a couple of reasons I disagree with the 'buy a cheap engine to start with' thing......
Firstly, a good strong reliable engine is a must in a heli. You need something that is going to be easy to tune and will run reliably at the generally richer settings required for run-in, unless you fancy lots of impromptu auto practice in the early stages of your learning curve due to engine flame-outs. Heli engines get worked pretty hard, often in less than ideal cooling conditions etc, so you need something that's going to stand up to the treatment.
Secondly, unless you're flying off a plain dirt field, you're simply not going to get that much 'stuff' sucked into the engine. You're better off buying yourself a good quality engine to start with, then replacing the piston/liner at a later stage *if required*. If you're really that concerned about the air quality entering your engine, you can get air filters that will do the job. But, be aware that these can radically alter the tuneability of your engine, particularly after they start getting soaked in oil etc. You can wind up chasing engine problems that aren't really there.
I've got a couple of other pearls of hard earned wisdom for you if you're interested?
Firstly, get a simulator. You *will* save yourself loads of cash in the long run. When I first started learning, I took my heli out with the 'training wheels' on and spent ages just hovering, tail in, in front of myself. I managed to bang the thing down really hard on the skids a number of times, trying to overcome that old fixed-wing habit of pulling back on the stick when you get into trouble, but thankfully didn't do any damage. Due to the 'fear factor' of doing anything more, I didn't make a lot of progress really and I was starting to wonder if I should have bothered. Enter the CSM simulator. About a week later, I was out doing my first loops and rolls and was hovering nose-in quite comfortably. To date, I've *never* dumb-thumbed the thing into the ground. I've had a couple of mechanical failures that resulted in minor crashes with 'affordable' repairs, but that's it. Now, I'm not saying you'll have the same level of success......it depends on your aptitude for the hobby and a whole pile of other things......but I guarantee you'll be a better flier sooner for it!
Secondly, hovering is easier if you don't hang around down near the ground. You're in ground effect when you're that low and stable hovering is a lot more difficult there. If you get the heli up around 1.5 metres or so, you'll find it a lot easier to maintain a steady hover. Of course, you're also more likely to roll it over and stick it in the dirt when you're above the height that your training wheels can successfully save you, so it's up to you when you decide to fly higher.
What sort of gyro did you get? If you don't have one yet, get a good quality heading hold job. You don't need hh in forward flight, but hovering is made easier to begin with when you don't have to worry about the tail or revo mixing etc. Particularly when you try nose-in or inverted hovering for the first time. It's invaluable when you start trying to fly backwards too!
If you can afford it (and you have a radio with enough channels), a head speed governor is nice to have. Pitch/throttle curves aren't difficult per se, but can be tedious and painfully boring to get right. Plus, even with perfect curves you can still experience head overspeeding during descents. A governor gets rid of both problems nicely :-)
Last but not least, learn how to auto as soon as you feel comfortable doing so. Better to know how to do it and not need it, than have a flame-out and not have a clue how to save it. Besides, I reckon autos are one of the coolest things you can do with a heli :-)
Good luck and welcome to the addiction!
MrBonk www.mrbonk.com
> Well...... > [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > Cheers all > Pete. The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 24 Mar 2006 05:19 GMT >Firstly, get a simulator. You *will* save yourself loads of cash in the >long run. When I first started learning, I took my heli out with the [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >success......it depends on your aptitude for the hobby and a whole pile of >other things......but I guarantee you'll be a better flier sooner for it! I agree with this wholeheartedly.. Back in the mid-90's, I tried it the same way - fired up the helo and tried to hover.. Didn't get far and ended up wadding the machine up and spares were VERY difficult to find for the helo (Schluter JR-50) so I shelved it.
Picked up Realflight G2 a couple years back and "practiced" quite a bit. Bought a Raptor 50V2 and got it all built, then discovered the Blade CP. The Raptor sits quietly on top of my bookcase in my office and I flog the Blade several evenings a week. No training gear and to date, 3 crashes with my most expensive repair being a new set of blades and a main shaft. Haven't done a lot of inverted stuff with it, but there's no way I'd have tried the little I've done without spending several thousand dollars of virtual money on the sim.
>Secondly, hovering is easier if you don't hang around down near the ground. >You're in ground effect when you're that low and stable hovering is a lot [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >the height that your training wheels can successfully save you, so it's up >to you when you decide to fly higher. Absolutely. Get up at least one rotor diameter to get out of ground effect. I started just getting the helo light on the skids and scooting it around the ground and maintaining heading with the tail rotor. A few tanks of that and I started to pick it up into a low hover. I didn't know about ground effect and had a helluva time keeping it steady and discovered if I hovered about eye level, it was much easier. Of course, landing requires a trip back through ground effect so you'll need to be fairly steady there as well.
>Last but not least, learn how to auto as soon as you feel comfortable doing >so. Better to know how to do it and not need it, than have a flame-out and >not have a clue how to save it. Besides, I reckon autos are one of the >coolest things you can do with a heli :-) Absolutely!! I love doing autos (both on the sim and in fullsize!) Haven't done 'em with the model yet 'cuz the Blade doesn't have a freewheeling unit on it. and I'm sure when I get the Raptor out my heart will be in my throat when I try an auto..
>Good luck and welcome to the addiction! If you think the models are addictive, go take an intro flight in the real thing at your local flight school... I'm slowly pissing away a big chunk of equity in my house as I earn my helo licenses.. eheheh
Pete - 24 Mar 2006 19:13 GMT Hi.
Hum.. sim eh...
I have played around with FMS, mainly for the FF i use to fly...
I have been looking for a cable for my JR x2610 but still looking... anybody got any idea where I can get one from ?
But, yeah, I know where your comming from, I have crashed my Hummingbird v3 so many times and luckly each repair is less than £5 - or should i say each bit is less than £5 ;-)
Im still looking for a sim because the fly times at the club are 3 hours sunday, and to learn, i dont think thats enough stick time - so, yeah, been hassleing local farmers ;-)
The gyro I have is not a HH gyro, but is sufficent enough - GWS01NP to allow me to learn to controll the beast with out it controlling its self. yeah ok, after the first crash ill proberly change my mind ;-)
Thanks for your advise...
so, if anybody knows where I can get a cable from, you know where i am
:-) Pete
Steve R - 24 Mar 2006 19:36 GMT Really good advice Mr.Bonk! I've only got a couple of comments. ;-)
> Pete, > Just my .02c, but there's a couple of reasons I disagree with the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > with perfect curves you can still experience head overspeeding during > descents. A governor gets rid of both problems nicely :-) Goverors are wonderful! I use them myself. But......don't use the governor as a crutch to get around learning how to properly setup those throttle and pitch curves. I've seen too many folks that just threw a govenor on there and expected everything to be just fine. Having a working understanding of the relationship between throttle and collective will go a LONG way to allowing you to diagnose and correct certain issues when you run into them. Yes, getting them right can be tedious, although I never personally considered it boring, but having that knowledge can only help in the future.
And another really good reason to set those throttle curves? Governors, like anything else, can fail. All it takes it a thrown magnet or whatever and now you're flying on the throttle curves and not the governor. Been there, done that! If your thottle curves are close, they don't need to be perfect, it'll be no problem. If they're not, things can get seriously hairy, "real" fast! :-o Bottom line is, the more you know and understand about the dynamics of the helicopter, the better off you'll be in the long run. It's your choice.
> Last but not least, learn how to auto as soon as you feel comfortable > doing so. Better to know how to do it and not need it, than have a > flame-out and not have a clue how to save it. Besides, I reckon autos are > one of the coolest things you can do with a heli :-) On that point, we're in 100% agreement! :-D Autos are nothing but fun once you get them down, no pun intended! ;-) They were the first thing I learned to do after getting somewhat comfortable in forward flight. Learned them before loops and rolls. Oddly enough, my first "oh sh*t" auto wasn't an engine failure. It was a tail rotor failure. The driver wire let go. Things were happening very quickly on the way down but the important part is that I was able the save the model from what would have more than likely been a total rebuild. Looking back on that one, there was a great deal of luck involved but if I hadn't been practicing auto's to begin with, I wouldn't have stood a chance. They're definitely worth learning!
> Good luck and welcome to the addiction! > > MrBonk > www.mrbonk.com Best of luck & Fly Safe, Steve R.
Pete - 28 Mar 2006 06:39 GMT Well the heli went for a build test. The flybar was off by a few mm which has been filxed.
All the controlls were back to front ;-) so reversed them all on the tx and all was good until we got to the throttle. There wasnt an extender bar to bring the bar out past the muffler, so it was fouling on the muffler and not shutting off fully. no test flight today.
looking around my spare room quickly becomming my workshop, I found a blanking pannel from the back of a pc which got drilled, sawed and bent and now works pretty well as a extension to the throttle control.
Now, the new extension works quite well, doesnt foul on anything, but, is there a defined length this thing should be oras im guessing, as long as it works as supposed to, its fine ?
Hope fully it will go for its first flight on this comming sunday, then I have a field i can practice in, when ever i want ... 104 miles away :-(
all good fun eh :-)
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 28 Mar 2006 06:45 GMT >looking around my spare room quickly becomming my workshop, I found a >blanking pannel from the back of a pc which got drilled, sawed and >bent and now works pretty well as a extension to the throttle >control. hehe, I built new radiator supports for the 240SX out of those things when the shroud's plastic mounts broke. Work like a charm and are WAY stronger than the original mounts. I'm glad I keep a pile of those things around.
>Hope fully it will go for its first flight on this comming sunday, >then I have a field i can practice in, when ever i want ... 104 miles >away :-( 104 miles?? Yeesh! I don't drive to the club field and it's only about 30 miles away.. I chuck the models out in the back yard or the schoolyard down the street. Only prob with the back yard is sometimes the neighbors complain about the noise of the glow powered stuff.
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