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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Helicopters / August 2006



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Recommendation on Micro Helo

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jt - 05 Aug 2006 21:17 GMT
I'm looking for a micro electric helo. Any suggestions on brand &
model? Fixed wing flyer...green at helo flying.

Thanks
John
funfly3 - 05 Aug 2006 23:25 GMT
> I'm looking for a micro electric helo. Any suggestions on brand &
> model? Fixed wing flyer...green at helo flying.
>
> Thanks
> John
T-rex or slightly bigger but unless you have a indoor site to fly in go
for a  30 powered helicopter these are so much easier and stable than a
honey bee or similar,  forget the little cheap electric ones they are
not worth the bother IMHO and this is from a fixed wing pilot dabbling
in helicopters I have flown a nexus 30 a honey bee 2 and a T-rex XL CDE
CCPM and I would go for a T-rex again, but I would spend more time on a
sim than you would first imagine so your comfortable with the controls
before even trying a hover, this I believe helped me to ditch the
training gear after 3 tank fulls of fuel and now I can quite apply hover
a tank dry,this was learning hovering a helicopter using a FMS and a
microsoft 3D joystick with twist for tail and separate throttle now I
have real flight G2 and a proper TX I can fly circuits do limited 3D but
all I need now are some big balls and 3d the real ones
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 06 Aug 2006 05:45 GMT
>> I'm looking for a micro electric helo. Any suggestions on brand &
>> model? Fixed wing flyer...green at helo flying.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>have real flight G2 and a proper TX I can fly circuits do limited 3D but
>all I need now are some big balls and 3d the real ones

I disagree.  A T-rex is NOT a micro and is another order of magnitude
more expensive to start with.  Yes, it will be more stable than a
HoneyBee or Blade CP, but a Raptor 90 will be much more stable than a
T-rex.  (and even more expensive)

I would suggest an E-Flite Blade CX or an Esky llama.  Both are dual,
counter-rotating rotor designs and come ready to fly.  Just add
batteries to the included transmitter and charge the battery for the
helo.  Roughly $200 and you're airborne.  Easy to fly and replacement
parts are pretty cheap.  Definitely not for outdoors unless it's dead
calm.

A Trex will run you around $600 to get airborne as you'll need the
kit, the radio gear, a gyro, batteries and a battery charger.  My Trex
(450SE V2)  cost right around $1,000 to get into the air, NOT
including the transmitter or battery charger.

My Raptor 50 cost about $1,500 to get airborne, again, not counting
the transmitter.

My Trex 600 will probably end up pushing the $2,000 range by the time
I get two battery packs for it and the charger capable of charging
them - again, NOT including the transmitter.

My micro is a highly modified Blade CP and flies well for a micro, but
I would not reccommend a collective pitch helo as a 1st bird.  Very
twitchy to fly.  Again, try the Blade CX or the Esky Llama.  Your
local shop should let you try it out in the store.

Good luck!!
funfly3 - 06 Aug 2006 10:45 GMT
>>> I'm looking for a micro electric helo. Any suggestions on brand &
>>> model? Fixed wing flyer...green at helo flying.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>> have real flight G2 and a proper TX I can fly circuits do limited 3D but
>> all I need now are some big balls and 3d the real ones

I disagree.  A T-rex is NOT a micro and is another order of magnitude
> more expensive to start with.  Yes, it will be more stable than a
> HoneyBee or Blade CP, but a Raptor 90 will be much more stable than a
> T-rex.  (and even more expensive)

trouble is a lot of people see the micros as a cheap easy way to get
into helicopters but they are not,the price of a t-rex on ebay is £120
or $230 then all you need is a tx rx and a charger as everything else is
included   but unless you need or can only fly indoors buy the biggest
one you can afford & you wont regret it

> I would suggest an E-Flite Blade CX or an Esky llama.  Both are dual,
> counter-rotating rotor designs and come ready to fly.  Just add
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Good luck!!
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 06 Aug 2006 22:25 GMT
>trouble is a lot of people see the micros as a cheap easy way to get
>into helicopters but they are not,the price of a t-rex on ebay is £120
>or $230 then all you need is a tx rx and a charger as everything else is
>included   but unless you need or can only fly indoors buy the biggest
>one you can afford & you wont regret it

Well, they are cheap and "easy" - "easy" being relative.  Buying off
ebay introduces an entirely new set of problems.  I've read thread
after thread on various forums about perfect Trex's from Ebay showing
as piles of crap.  

Let's say you buy a Trex off Ebay for $200.  A decent Tx/Rx another
$250 with servos.  2100mah battery, another $75.  Decent charger,
another $75.  You probably need a gyro too.  There's another $80 for a
low-end unit.  What's that?  $680 and you have no idea how good/bad
the Trex is, or how to put it all together and get it set up.

Buy an RTF micro out of the box and you're looking at $200 and you're
in the air.
funfly3 - 07 Aug 2006 10:17 GMT
>> trouble is a lot of people see the micros as a cheap easy way to get
>> into helicopters but they are not,the price of a t-rex on ebay is £120
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Buy an RTF micro out of the box and you're looking at $200 and you're
> in the air.  

or not as the case might be I brought a Honey bee 2 that was un-flyable
out of the box due to problems with the servos moving at different
speeds which was a right pain in the arse when you used the collective
it affected  cyclic as well, as you raised the collective it would go
say forward and right and lowering it it would go aft and left   the TX
have all the servo reverser's in the wrong sense and the gyro was way
off so as for out of the box and your in the air not in my case and this
was brought new from a seller who claimed they test flew every
helicopter that left them ?
I just think unless you have a big enough room/hall to fly circuits in
daily forget the micros and buy something bigger, the OP is not a raw
beginner in modelling and I doubt if he's flown aircraft straight out of
the box and I would have thought he's met at least one person who can
set up a helicopter
If I would have based my whole experience of helicopters with my honey
bee being my first helicopter I would have not bothered continuing in
trying to fly as I would have thought it was two hard but as I already
could hover my nexus for 15 mins straight I realised how hard the micros
are , so I sold it and asked the experienced people in my club what to
buy and it was a zoom 400 or a T-rex and brought my rex which is so much
easier to fly  and it will fly hands off for quite a few seconds which
the honey bee would never do
Kevin (yes another one in England)
ian - 07 Aug 2006 14:36 GMT
>> On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 09:53:15 GMT, funfly3 <dontemailme@ntlworld.com>
> or not as the case might be I brought a Honey bee 2 that was un-flyable
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> to fly as I would have thought it was two hard but as I already could
> hover my nexus for 15 mins straight I realised how hard the micros are ,

I've been warned against buying expensive machines as it is most likely i
wouldn't be able to fly them.  I was actually recommended the jpdistribution
version of the honey bee 2 which is the twister cp.

Did you manage to correct all the problems with this machine?
It would seem from my researches that if you want true ready to fly out of
the box you buy a venom air corps model.  They are exact duplicates of the
walkera craft except that they really are setup to fly properly out of the
box.
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 07 Aug 2006 20:47 GMT
>or not as the case might be I brought a Honey bee 2 that was un-flyable
>out of the box due to problems with the servos moving at different
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>was brought new from a seller who claimed they test flew every
>helicopter that left them ?

There's a thread on RunRyder that's entitled something like "test
flown by drunks".  My Blade CP did fly right out of the box and only
required a slight tracking adjustment.  Granted, it didn't fly nearly
as smooth or as stable as my Trex, but it did fly.

>I just think unless you have a big enough room/hall to fly circuits in
>daily forget the micros and buy something bigger, the OP is not a raw
>beginner in modelling and I doubt if he's flown aircraft straight out of
>the box and I would have thought he's met at least one person who can
>set up a helicopter

Perhaps not.  Flying planks is different than helicopters and very
little transfers over when learning helis.

>If I would have based my whole experience of helicopters with my honey
>bee being my first helicopter I would have not bothered continuing in
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>the honey bee would never do
>Kevin (yes another one in England)

My CP will hover hands off for 3-4 seconds, but it's far from stock
and it's taken me quite some time to get it to this point.  I also
ditched the stock Tx and set it up on my Futaba 9CHP.  My point was
for around $200, the OP could get a CX or a Llama and be in the air
right out of the box.
Doug McLaren - 09 Aug 2006 22:22 GMT
| There's a thread on RunRyder that's entitled something like "test
| flown by drunks".

Heh!  http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/t276427p1/

| Perhaps not.  Flying planks is different than helicopters and very
| little transfers over when learning helis.

As a guy who recently picked up helicopters after years of flying R/C
planes, I can say that a lot transfers.  For example, in forward
flight, your reflexes will probably be pretty close to right.

However, there's still a whole lot to learn.  Hovering is totally
alien, and if you're flying backwards, your reflexes tend to cause you
to do the totally wrong thing and crash hard.

And most of what you know about setting up planes, trimming, dealing
with the radio gear, batteries, etc. transfers too.

But the #1 piece of advice I can give you?  Simulator!  Learn to fly
on the simulator first!  Turn up the turbulence and wind a bit, and if
you're using RFG3, remove the heading hold gyro from your models and
put in a rate gyro instead!  Especially if you want to start with
something like a Blade CP, the simulator helicopters are far easier to
fly.  Going back to a less functional gyro will help make things more
realistic.

Also, spend some time practicing with the trims out of whack, and also
spend some time on putting the heli into wierd positions and then
recovering once you get down hovering -- but start with hovering,
first tail (where the tail faces you) and then tail out (the nose
faces you) then random orientations.

Signature

Doug McLaren, dougmc@frenzied.us
I'll make the money by selling one of my livers. I can get by with one.
--Homer Simpson

The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 12 Aug 2006 07:20 GMT
>| There's a thread on RunRyder that's entitled something like "test
>| flown by drunks".
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>planes, I can say that a lot transfers.  For example, in forward
>flight, your reflexes will probably be pretty close to right.

I'll agree with that, but like you say below, there's a LOT more to
learn.  Unless you're doing tailslides, you can pretty much bet the
nose of an airplane will always be pointed forward.  (I too am a plank
flyer)

>However, there's still a whole lot to learn.  Hovering is totally
>alien, and if you're flying backwards, your reflexes tend to cause you
>to do the totally wrong thing and crash hard.

Absolutely!

>And most of what you know about setting up planes, trimming, dealing
>with the radio gear, batteries, etc. transfers too.

I'll agree with the radio gear, but trimming a helo is a LOT more
involved than an airplane.

>But the #1 piece of advice I can give you?  Simulator!  Learn to fly
>on the simulator first!  Turn up the turbulence and wind a bit, and if
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>fly.  Going back to a less functional gyro will help make things more
>realistic.

I agree 100% here.  If you're going to get even remotely past the
"Gee, that looks fun" stage and want to avoid learning the old school
"Crash, Buy Parts, Repair, Repeat" method, buy a good sim.  

>Also, spend some time practicing with the trims out of whack, and also
>spend some time on putting the heli into wierd positions and then
>recovering once you get down hovering -- but start with hovering,
>first tail (where the tail faces you) and then tail out (the nose
>faces you) then random orientations.

I've been practicing my nose-in stuff on the sim with high wind and
gusts to build muscle memory.  Can't quite nose-in a full battery on
my Trex, but it's kept me from wadding it up in my attempts to do so.
Doug McLaren - 06 Aug 2006 20:27 GMT
| I would suggest an E-Flite Blade CX or an Esky llama.  Both are dual,
| counter-rotating rotor designs and come ready to fly.  Just add
| batteries to the included transmitter and charge the battery for the
| helo.  Roughly $200 and you're airborne.  Easy to fly and replacement
| parts are pretty cheap.  Definitely not for outdoors unless it's dead
| calm.

I've got a Blade CX.  It's extremely easy to fly -- it never really
lets itself tilt very far, and the moment you let up on the controls
it's back to level.  It's just the thing for flying around around the
house.

However, as Kevin said, for outside it just doesn't work.  Not only
does it have very little control authority and is therefore very easy
to lose to just a bit of wind.  But it gets worse than that -- a bit
of turbulence can easily cause the top and bottom blades to collide --
they call it `blade clash' on the forums.

If you're lucky, not much will happen.  If you're not lucky, several
things can happen --

1- blades can break, which usually leads to a crash
2- you can much of the momentum in the blades, causing you to lose
   lift, often causing a crash.

This happens most often when you have the right stick pushed all the
way in one direction, but it can happen even when the sticks are in
the middle.

My CX is sitting in the garage right now, with a smashed 3-in-1 unit
(damage seems to just be to the case), pretty much destroyed canopy
and two bent drive shafts, because of a clash that caused #2 and it
came down from about 20 feeet and I couldn't get it back in time.

But inside, it works great.

Blades are cheap -- $1 each.  I'm guessing that my crash cost me about
$20 for shafts, maybe $40 if I buy a new canopy.  (It's torn up, but
tape can fix that.  I don't really care how it looks.)

An added bonus is that the hobby shop has parts for the CX, CP and the
T-Rex helis.  You might want to check and see what your hobby shop has
parts for -- you'll be going there a lot.

The Blade CP is MUCH harder to fly.  In fact, it's one of the hardest
helicopters out there to fly -- not because it's bad, so much, as that
it's twitchy.  I'll bet a heading hold gyro would help a lot, but if
you're going to hack that in, why not just get a better helicopter to
start with?

Parts for the Blade CP are a bit more, and it's not nearly so
forgiving of mistakes.  You can crash the CX and it'll probably be OK.
Crash the CP and odds are much higher that you'll be going to the
hobby shop.  Any other brands are going to be a lot more expensive to
fix.

Signature

Doug McLaren, dougmc@frenzied.us
Everyone talks about apathy, but no one does anything about it.

The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 06 Aug 2006 22:31 GMT
>An added bonus is that the hobby shop has parts for the CX, CP and the
>T-Rex helis.  You might want to check and see what your hobby shop has
>parts for -- you'll be going there a lot.

That is a huge part of the equation right there.  If the local shop
has the parts, chances are someone there is flying the same machine
and can offer some help and get you back in the air ery quickly.

>The Blade CP is MUCH harder to fly.  In fact, it's one of the hardest
>helicopters out there to fly -- not because it's bad, so much, as that
>it's twitchy.  I'll bet a heading hold gyro would help a lot, but if
>you're going to hack that in, why not just get a better helicopter to
>start with?

The stock CP is hard to fly because the response between stick input
and reaction of the helicopter is so slow.  The Bell-Hiller upgrade
helps quite a bit, but then it's a matter or keeping up with the
thing.  Definitely not a beginner's helo.  

I went to the local shop 2 days after Christmas to pick up parts for
an Edge 540 foamy I was building and the helo guys had a good half
dozen bent up CPs on the counter waiting to be repaired.  Seems a lot
of people got 'em for Christmas and wadded 'em on on their 1st
flights.  

>Parts for the Blade CP are a bit more, and it's not nearly so
>forgiving of mistakes.  You can crash the CX and it'll probably be OK.
>Crash the CP and odds are much higher that you'll be going to the
>hobby shop.  Any other brands are going to be a lot more expensive to
>fix.

My most expensive crash with my CP cost me about $30.  New blades, new
mainshaft, new tailrotor and a flybar.  Most crashes now involve a new
mainshaft (6 bucks) and an hour or so to rebuild and set it all up
again.
jt - 06 Aug 2006 22:55 GMT
All responding: Your dialog is great and I'm getting a lot of good
info. Still watching the posts.

Thanks much!!

John

>>An added bonus is that the hobby shop has parts for the CX, CP and the
>>T-Rex helis.  You might want to check and see what your hobby shop has
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>mainshaft (6 bucks) and an hour or so to rebuild and set it all up
>again.
TXHELIJR@dbzmail.com - 07 Aug 2006 06:44 GMT
For beginners, you can go for the Esky Lama 2 or Blade CX, these are
the great beginners rc helicopters.

If you want more challenge helicopters, then go for the Trext, Esky
CP2, or Blade CP

You can check the flying videos for all the helicopters here:
http://www.linknety.com/modevideos/demo/index.php

If you want to go into the nitro helicopter, then go for the Raptor
ian - 06 Aug 2006 03:39 GMT
> I'm looking for a micro electric helo. Any suggestions on brand &
> model? Fixed wing flyer...green at helo flying.

For newbies i would recommend dual rotor systems.  Esky llama.  These are so
small they are strictly indoor.  Slightest breath of wind and they get away
from you.  All this type of design get through rotor blades quite quickly.
At least with esky you can get 8 blades for £8.50.  you will have to buy
packs of upper and lower seperately.  If you are looking for outdoor then go
for the ones with two 370 motors.  They aren't that more expensive.  £130
ish instead of £100.  Don't even consider single rotor 3d models until you
are an accomplished flyer.
Nigel Heather - 06 Aug 2006 17:18 GMT
The Twister Medevac is reviewed in the current edition of RotorWorld
magazine.

This is a new improved vesrsion of the Twister and has addressed the
criticsims that were levelled at the previous version.

The 'Medevac' bit is that like the previous version it is made to look like
a Bell 47, but to distinguish it, this version is coloured in the US Medevac
colour scheme of MASH fame - looks very nice.

The review is very complimentary and sounds like just the thing you are
after.

Also, the term micro heli isbeginning to take on a new meaning.  Also
reviewed in RotorWorld is Buzzflyer Micro which is one of the new generation
tiny helicopters which are small enough to sit in the palm of your hand.
These make the Hummingbirds and Dragonflys look like giants.

All the small helicopters (Twister Medevac included) are really only suited
for indoor flight.  If you have a really still day then they can be flown
outside but are really susceptible to gusts.

Cheers,

Nigel
 
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