> Hi I have a rotor head that I need to disassemble but has the very strong
> (permanent) threadlock liquid holding it together. Does anyone know of a
> threadlock remover that wont spoil anodised aluminium?
> Thanks - Gaz
Best way I've always heard is a heat gun. Warm it up enough and the thread
lock should soften a bit and it shouldn't adversely effect the anodizing.
When you put it back together, use the blue (242 I think) stuff, "not" the
red (271) thread lock.
Also, I'm assuming you're talking about allen head bolts? If that's the
case, try to find a good set of hardened allen drivers. They'll hang onto
the bolt a lot better. The standard tools like what you'd find in a set at
an auto parts store are generally more flexible and don't hold as well.
Good luck,
Steve R.
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 30 Nov 2007 17:09 GMT
>> Hi I have a rotor head that I need to disassemble but has the very strong
>> (permanent) threadlock liquid holding it together. Does anyone know of a
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>the bolt a lot better. The standard tools like what you'd find in a set at
>an auto parts store are generally more flexible and don't hold as well.
The drivers the RC car guys use work well - as do those drivers
available for us heli guys. The "L" drivers are usually junk and will
round out the heads of the bolts.
Stick a soldering iron tip into the top of the screw in question. That will
loosen the thread lock in short order.
> Hi I have a rotor head that I need to disassemble but has the very strong
> (permanent) threadlock liquid holding it together. Does anyone know of a
> threadlock remover that wont spoil anodised aluminium?
> Thanks - Gaz
Steve R - 01 Dec 2007 02:52 GMT
> Stick a soldering iron tip into the top of the screw in question. That
> will loosen the thread lock in short order.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> threadlock remover that wont spoil anodised aluminium?
>> Thanks - Gaz
Hmmm, hadn't heard of that method before. Sounds like it should work pretty
good and a LOT faster than my heat gun suggestion.
Thanks!
Chris Dugan - 01 Dec 2007 11:14 GMT
> Hmmm, hadn't heard of that method before. Sounds like it should work pretty
> good and a LOT faster than my heat gun suggestion.
>
> Thanks!
I can see a small problem with that: make sure you have a high output
soldering iron i.e. 50W or greater and a good sized tip to it. Trying this
with a 25W electronics iron with a delicate tip (desigend just for small
wires and light duty soldering) may not put enough heat into the job.
You want a high localised heat for a short time or the heat will soak into
the rest of the head (including any plastic parts) and could soften/warp
them too.
Chris
Beav - 20 Dec 2007 22:35 GMT
>> Stick a soldering iron tip into the top of the screw in question. That
>> will loosen the thread lock in short order.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Hmmm, hadn't heard of that method before. Sounds like it should work
> pretty good and a LOT faster than my heat gun suggestion.
I've heated up shitty allen keys to red hot for taking the bite out of
threadlock (271). Works a treat and does no damage to anything apart from
your table top when you drop it. My soldering irons are too girlie for
threadlock.

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