
Signature
Beav
Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)
Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk
> > What is the best CA to use in the assembly of my new heli (blades and
> > other parts)? I have heard fast, slow, thick, and thin. I also want to
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> each other when you apply the glue. That'd be things like blade root
> doublers and suchlike.
I went to a local hobby shop (they do have a small Heli section) and
the guy there told me to use Plasti-ZAP instead of Slo-ZAP on the
blade roots will that be ok? I hope so because I glued them when I got
home.
> Use the thin Zap in areas to be bonded if it's already partially assembled.
> The thin stuff "wicks" into the joint, even if it's closed pretty tightly.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Blue (242). Use Red Loctite ONLY if you can get a blowlamp on the parts when
> it comes time to dis-assemble them.
He also told me to use Red on the engine nut holding on the clutch and
use Blue everywhere else. Will Blue be better for the engine nut?
Thanks,
--
Sean U.
P.H. - 30 Dec 2003 19:24 GMT
The green lactate is the strongest, for things that you want to stay where
you would want em to stay
david - 30 Dec 2003 20:42 GMT
> The green lactate is the strongest, for things that you want to stay where
> you would want em to stay
LACTATE???? My, my, you have a useful wife!
David
Markus Gysin - 30 Dec 2003 21:49 GMT
Listen to Beav....
If you use red loctite you never will get that clutch assy apart anymore,
btw, I never use any loctite on the
clutch assy at all.
best regards
Markus
> The green lactate is the strongest, for things that you want to stay where
> you would want em to stay
JB - 31 Dec 2003 01:42 GMT
In the manual for my Century heli,they recommend using thin CA for thread
locker.
Did this and have flown it for 4 seasons now with absolutely No problems.
Just a suggestion!
> Listen to Beav....
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> > The green lactate is the strongest, for things that you want to stay where
> > you would want em to stay
JB - 31 Dec 2003 01:42 GMT
In the manual for my Century heli,they recommend using thin CA for thread
locker.
Did this and have flown it for 4 seasons now with absolutely No problems.
Just a suggestion!
> Listen to Beav....
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> > The green lactate is the strongest, for things that you want to stay where
> > you would want em to stay
Beav - 31 Dec 2003 01:08 GMT
> The green lactate is the strongest, for things that you want to stay where
> you would want em to stay
Yeah, but that green lactate tastes absolutely f.cking gruesome!

Signature
Beav
Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)
Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk
Mike - 30 Dec 2003 22:12 GMT
Just thought I would mention... sometimes a soldering iron can be used on heads
of bolts, or on nuts, when a blowtorch would be inappropriate.
Happy New Year
Beav - 31 Dec 2003 01:07 GMT
> > > What is the best CA to use in the assembly of my new heli (blades and
> > > other parts)? I have heard fast, slow, thick, and thin. I also want to
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> blade roots will that be ok? I hope so because I glued them when I got
> home.
I hope so too:-) Actually I've not heard of Plsti-Zap, but I can't imagine
it WOULDN'T work, given that the blade doublers are plastic:-)
> > Use the thin Zap in areas to be bonded if it's already partially assembled.
> > The thin stuff "wicks" into the joint, even if it's closed pretty tightly.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> He also told me to use Red on the engine nut holding on the clutch and
> use Blue everywhere else. Will Blue be better for the engine nut?
Red is normally known as "StudLock" and if you use it you WILL need a lot of
heat on the parts if you need to rip them apart at some time. It certainly
holds things, but there does come a time when "Holding" is distinct from
"hlding" if you get me drift. I only use blue (242) on crank nuts and they
don't come adrift.

Signature
Beav
Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)
Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk