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Steve & Chris Clark - 24 Oct 2004 01:57 GMT

I have installed a new .28 Wasp in my Savage. I feel secure in the
installation on my part, right from the flywheel Colette to the final output
shaft screw secured with blue locktite!. I have removed the pull starter
and replaced it with my roto starter socket and gear. (fits just fine)
Problems with this????
I'm not so comfortable with the single page of instruction it came with!
It is too vague for my liking. Does anyone have a www. that has a more
comprehensive in its approach to breaking in this motor? It seems as though
this single page is meant for some other motor???? I would like to read
more about this engine before I start the break-in. $16.00/gloplug though,
WOW!

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Thanks!
Steve

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Mark Stevens - 24 Oct 2004 23:58 GMT

>I have installed a new .28 Wasp in my Savage. I feel secure in the
> installation on my part, right from the flywheel Colette to the final
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> more about this engine before I start the break-in. $16.00/gloplug though,
> WOW!

How much do you need in the way of break in instructions..?? and what
exactly does your single page of instructions tell you...???

There is not much to breaking in an engine other than running a few tanks of
fuel through the engine at lower revs / lower speeds to loosen things up
before trying to go flat out with it..usually up to 5 tanks worth at max
although 3 to 4 tanks will do...how much more do you need...???? And I said
that in 2 lines...not 1 page..!!!

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Regards........Mark
(BlueWaveStudios)
www.scale-models.co.uk

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sbb78247 - 26 Oct 2004 02:37 GMT

>> I have installed a new .28 Wasp in my Savage. I feel secure in the
>> installation on my part, right from the flywheel Colette to the final
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> 5 tanks worth at max although 3 to 4 tanks will do...how much more do
> you need...???? And I said that in 2 lines...not 1 page..!!!

Agreed, you should tune it a bit and then damn the torpedoes! You have to
pay to play. If you break it, then don't do it again. If you don't then
you are catching on.

Shannon

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Steve & Chris Clark - 26 Oct 2004 02:59 GMT

OK....
Starting and breaking-in your engine.
Proper engine break-in is crucial. The engine must be installed in the
vehicle and connected to the transmission with the vehicle's wheels and
tires installed. The engine is not designed to rev freely without some
load. When starting the engine the first time, use a very rich mixture
setting (as rich as will allow the engine to run). This is approximately
4.5 to 5 turns from fully closed (tighten all the way then loosen the
appropriate number of turns) for the top end needle and 5.5 turns from fully
closed for the bottom end needle. Leave the mid-range needle untouched.

They show labelled diagrams but not of the mid-range adjustment?
--
Steve

> How much do you need in the way of break in instructions..?? and what
> exactly does your single page of instructions tell you...???
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> although 3 to 4 tanks will do...how much more do you need...???? And I said
> that in 2 lines...not 1 page..!!!

---
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sbb78247 - 26 Oct 2004 03:56 GMT

> OK....
> Starting and breaking-in your engine.
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
> Checked by AVG. anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.782 / Virus Database: 528 - Release Date: 10/22/04

Watch your temps. Obviously if the head is to hot and boils off a drop of
water instantly you have a problem.

Watch your smoke. No smoke = bad during break in, Lots of smoke but still
running = good. Oil is a good thing on a new motor especially during the
first few tanks.

Damn blow a plug or 2 because of a rich mixture, pay to play, remember?
Better than a siezed or damaged piston/sleeve.

These guys here are running almost 90 mph in the traps for the scale quarter
mile and lots of HP on the dirt tracks with .21s and lots of tuning. As
Nike said during the 90s - Just do it!

Really, good luck and happy running.

S

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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / October 2004

Not quite ready.....