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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / April 2005.26 engine set up and tune
Hi there, I have a .26 engine that I need to set up and tune. I have tried to set the needles like the manual states but there seems to be a problem with the low end needle. Here is what I have done:- Close midrange needle and open 3 1/4 turns as directed by the manual. Close lowend needle and open 3 1/2 turns as directed by the manual. Doing this does not allow the throttle to open. I have to open the lowend srew about 7 turns from closed to get the throttle to open. Now I am confused, do I have the lowend open too far?, does closed really mean something different to in until resistance is felt? (i.e. in a certain position relating to the other needle). Please can someone help me to sort this out and ensure that I am not doing any damage to the engine? Is there a sequence that I should perform like ensuring that the throttle is open for example when the needles are closed then opened? Any help gratefully received. Thanks in advance > Hi there, > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Thanks in advance hi try taking off the airfilter and look inside the carb. the gap you should see on the throttle slide should be open by about one mm (1mm) if it is more (or less) than 1mm then adjust the low end screw to get the gap right.. then adjust the high end screw to the recommended amount by the manual.. next open the throttle slightly using the throttle arm from the servo (after replacing the air filter) and start the engine..you may have to adjust the setting on the high end after starting..read the manual for this bit.. steves-place@www.bigun.serverbox.org wrote: > > Hi there, > > [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > replacing the air filter) and start the engine..you may have to adjust the > setting on the high end after starting..read the manual for this bit.. Thanks for your reply. What about the midrange, do you think that it is OK at 3 1/4 turns as I have put it? I think there is about 1mm gap as you suggested but I am confused that the midrange is open so many turns when the manual says 3 1/2 or do you think that's a misprint? Thanks again Gary > steves-place@www.bigun.serverbox.org wrote: > > > Hi there, [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] > > Gary hi gary it may help alot more if you can let us know the make and type of engine you have as there are lots of them and they can be different, some have only two adjusters some have more etc. so if you could let us know the make and model that would be great steves-place@www.bigun.serverbox.org wrote: > > steves-place@www.bigun.serverbox.org wrote: > > > > Hi there, [quoted text clipped - 59 lines] > some have only two adjusters some have more etc. > so if you could let us know the make and model that would be great Hi thanks for the replies. The car is a Hotbodies lightening. There are four screws on the engine in total. High end, low end, mid range and idle. I am on the south coast near brighton, anyone near by that could have a look perhaps? Thanks again for the help it really good. Gary > steves-place@www.bigun.serverbox.org wrote: > > > [quoted text clipped - 87 lines] > > Gary sorry chap i have no expereance with carbs that have more than two adjusters for the mixture settings so i will sit this one out. but i will keep watching this post as it is going to be another learning curve when you set the low end needle... 1) OPEN the low end needle several turns (remove it even) 2) close the carb barrel fully, but not beyond fully shut. (some wil over-rotate) 3) carefully turn the low end needle in until EITHER you see the car barrel move slightly OR you feel any added resistance to turning it. 4) turn the low end needle out the specified amount in the manual. (o up to 2 turns MORE than they specify if you have still been havin problems.) ************ What happens if you don't follow these steps is... you might overl close the low end needle and have it controlling the high end fuel flo instead of the main needle. The whole engine power range would b messed up except full throttle. (and closing the carb could bend th idle needle) ********* Then tun the engine high end... THEN tune the low end. NEVER retun the low end if the high end is out of adjustment. ************ note.. someof your porblem description says... you are calling the car travel limit screw an adjustment needle... -- fhhuber50677 You aren't possibly counting a half of a turn (180 degrees) as a full turn (360 degrees) are you? > Hi there, > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Thanks in advance No, full 360 degrees as one turn. Gary Also... the multi-color quote system is driving me nuts : -- fhhuber50677 Yeh, I also thought that it would show your nickname not the email address or have i missed something on the sep-up? Not for the first time heh? Unfortunately... I can't find an on-line manual to SEE the carb of tha particular engine... (too new on the market) I am still fairly sure that you are identifying one or more of th screws incorrectly... and thus making it difficult to explain how t make the needed adjustments. ****************** MOST glow engines in the displacement range of .15ci to .32ci use basic types of carbs. Air bleed. and "Dual Needle" NEITHER of thes types have a mid-range adjustment screw... (there are other typ carbs... just very uncommon in this size) You can have a dual needle or an air bleed carb in either a "rotary" o "Slide" throttle configuration. (Slide carbs are more often found i cars and helis than in airplanes.... but most cars use the rotar throttle barrel.) My first response *assumed* (ooo there's a good thing to do...) you ha a dual needle type. If you can get a picture of the carb.. use a paint program to pu numbers beside EVERY visible screw (post 4 pictures of the carb if yo have to... just number the same screw the same in every picture) the tell em what you are calling them... I can solve your problem 99.9% fo sure. And PLEASE... no more of the multi-color quotes... its just driving m nuts. (I can scroll up) (I think this discussion is an e-mail or newsnet that is being repeate AND sent back to the net in a forum which I am visiting... the newsne style quotes are comming out in color and very distracting colors i this forum -- fhhuber50677 Just thought.. if this is forwarding to the newsnet... you may not b able to post a pic in the newsnet... I am seeing it here ::: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3529488#post352948 -- fhhuber50677 http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Instr_lightning2/page3.jpg http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/instr_stadium/6.jpg > http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Instr_lightning2/page3.jpg > http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/instr_stadium/6.jpg > > > http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Instr_lightning2/page3.jpg sorry wrong again the motor in question still has four adjusting points not three as on the HPI > http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Instr_lightning2/page3.jpg wrong settup the one in question has 4 settngs to adjust Yes thats the correct manual but if I open the low end screw 3 1/2 turns then I cannot open the throttle. Gary > Yes thats the correct manual but if I open the low end screw 3 1/2 > turns then I cannot open the throttle. > > Gary garry have you got a picture of the carb??? > > Yes thats the correct manual but if I open the low end screw 3 1/2 > > turns then I cannot open the throttle. > > > > Gary > > garry have you got a picture of the carb??? No, but it is the same as the drawing in the picture on page three of the manual you found. I also tried the customer support at Hotbodies a few weeks ago but they have not responded at all. Gary On this carb..when you pull the slide out (open) as far it goes and look inside do you still see the needle and needle channel on sides?..If so, the gap between them should be just about 2mm. (this is based from my carb). The idle gap when the slide is closed should be 1-2mm (this adjusts with the idle screw not the low end on my carb)... It is possible to over turn a low end needle (atleast on mine) and mess it up.Unscrew it, and with as little force as possible turn it in until you feel any resistance at all. I would guess in your case that the point where the slide actually opens would be the bottom. It is possible the slide or carb is defective. > > > Yes thats the correct manual but if I open the low end screw 3 1/2 > > > turns then I cannot open the throttle. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Gary hi gary it was someone ealse who found that manual, COME ON CHAPS THERE MUST BE SOMEONE WHO CAN HELP THIS CHAP.........pleeeeeaaaaaasssse > the manual you found. I also tried the customer support at Hotbodies a > few weeks ago but they have not responded at all. Might want to try them one more time. I spent some time with some of the HB support crew at a Hobbytown convention in (2003? 2004?) and they seemed like good people. I don't think they'd blow anyone off on purpose.  Signaturehttp://cbsrmt.mousetrap.net/RMTdb/ CBS Radio Mystery Theater database CBSRMT uploads each day in <news:alt.binaries.sounds.radio.cbsrmt> http://greyhound.mousetrap.net/altus/ our ex-racer greyhound http://www.mousetrap.net/~mouse/cs.html How to get good phone support I did try twice and had no response. I guess I could try once more. Had the car running this afternoon and it seems as though it is going OK but dont feel all rhat confident that things are where they should be. I will try again and see how it goes. Gary Gary, I'm closer than some of these guys (near Portsmouth), but not going to be much use to you as I'm away this weekend at Weston super-mare for the 1/10 IC BRCA meeting. Here are some things to try: Try setting the mid range screw (D in the manual page) head flush with the carb body, that should be a good starting point no matter what the manual says. The top end A and bottom end B set to factory settings (usually A is flush with the top of the tube or set in about 0.5mm and B is set about 0.5mm proud of the carb body or flush), make sure the carb is fully open when adjusting B or you might damage the needle seat. Screw C adjusts the airgap or idle speed (the factory set gap of 2mm as shown in the picture) unscrew this completley until it almost comes out and then screw it back in a couple of turns, the end of the screw sits in a slot on the movable part of the barrel (to stop rotation)and acts as an end stop to prevent the throttle from closing too much or running off the end of it's movement. Screw C can cause the carb to lock if you tighten it too much, one thing that beginners do is not realise that unlike on a plane you don't want to be able to pull back to full brakes and cut the engine. The throttle stop screw (C) keeps the engine ticking over even under brakes, if your carb closes from the idle position when you apply brakes then screw in C till it doesn't, then the engine won't stall when braking. If you need more help then holler, Chris from the manual re the midrange screw "It is recommended that you do no adjust the mdrange adjusting screw".... hmmm... and you say at 3 1/2 turns you can't OPEN the carb?.. hmm... and you have adjusted the mid-range before? OK.. open the midrange in 1/8 turn increments up to 7 trys and see i that frees up the carb. (stop if/when it does) If it does... you ben something. Its possible that it can be straightened if the bent par can be identified (maybe) This is probably something that I could fix in under 10 mn in person.. its just how to diagnose over the net when I can't SEE it : -- fhhuber50677 > from the manual re the midrange screw "It is recommended that you do not > adjust the mdrange adjusting screw".... hmmm... [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > This is probably something that I could fix in under 10 mn in person... > its just how to diagnose over the net when I can't SEE it :p see i told you it was not a good idea to sell your eyes on ebay :-) SignatureRemove *flaps* to reply > Hi there, > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Close midrange needle and open 3 1/4 turns as directed by the manual. closed, all the way clockwise and then you are turning mixture screw counter clockwise 3 and one quarter turns right? > Close lowend needle and open 3 1/2 turns as directed by the manual. I seldom read the books on how to do a engine break-in > Doing this does not allow the throttle to open. I have to open the what about the idle screw? u need to turn the idle screw in clockwise a little to increase the rpms. > lowend srew about 7 turns from closed to get the throttle to open. Now > I am confused, do I have the lowend open too far?, does closed really not entirely sure what you say i.e. u use the term "lowend" am using my basic 2 stroke engine knowledge as I am a (disabled vet) ex-mechanic by trade i.e. i have some knowledge when it comes to carburetor functions. lowend to me would mean idle screw. idle or throttle stop screw is what adjusts the idle or the rpm setting at idle. "Midrange" I guess that means the "metering valve" would be on the throttle lever side of the carb or maybe midrange means "mixture control valve" on the opposite side of the throttle lever. mixture control valve is for adjusting the fuel to air ratio at midrange. there is also the "needle valve" which controls the WOT (wide open throttle) mixture. > mean something different to in until resistance is felt? (i.e. in a > certain position relating to the other needle). Please can someone help [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Thanks in advance Thanks all, the response has been great. Spent yesterday PM trying some of the tning tip and I believe I have it going really well. Went out today with a bud from work and had the best fun for ages off roading on the south downs. Great great great. Thanks again all. Gary |
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