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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / May 2005Question about SG and threaded shafts
Hello all, Gunna replace the motor in my Megatech Gladiator and am wondering if I should go with a pilot (SG) or full threaded shaft and use my existing clutch nut for the clutch bell. Here's the thing, the SG shaft is going to be too long and I'll need to cut it. Are SG shafts internally threaded from the end where the screw goes in to hold the clutch bell on clear back to the externally threaded portion? Thanks, Doc "Doc" wrote: > Hello all, > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Doc Easiest thing to do would be direct replacement on shaft style. That way, you know all your old clutch parts will work. Changing the shaft style usually ends up in replacing the whole clutch bell assembly. > Easiest thing to do would be direct replacement on shaft style. That way, > you know all your old clutch parts will work. Changing the shaft style > usually ends up in replacing the whole clutch bell assembly. Yeah, I know it would be easier, but the motors with the SG shaft have more HP for the same $$$. The way I see it, I could even use an SG-style motor and just lop off the entire pilot portion of the shaft, essentially making it a short, threaded crank. If I use the brass crank washer first, then the flywheel, then use my existing clutch nut to hold the flywheel on, I can do away with the entire smooth portion of the crank. As long as the threaded section of the shaft matches the internal threads of the clutch nut I'll be in good shape I think? Doc >As long as the threaded section of the shaft matches the internal threads >of the clutch nut I'll be in good shape I think? Verify the threads are the same BEFORE cutting the pilot shaft off of the new motor.<G> Also be sure the motor mounts, exhaust, & throttle linkage will work on a different engine. The throttle/brake linkage can be rigged, but the price of the motor swap might not be worth it if you need a new exhaust & motor mounts... Scott -- 1:8 Mugen Sting, Mugen MBX-XR, GS Storm Pro 1:10 Losi XXX-NT, OFNA Nitro OB4, Serpent Impulse, Losi XXX-KE, OFNA OB4 International Inline................. > >As long as the threaded section of the shaft matches the internal threads >>of the clutch nut I'll be in good shape I think? > > Verify the threads are the same BEFORE cutting the pilot shaft > off of the new motor.<G> No sh.t, already thought about that! I'd just lop off the smooth part of my existing clutch nut so it's truly a "nut" and check it that way, and if it fits use a new clutch nut. According to the specs I'm looking at the thread is 5mm, so I should be in good shape. > Also be sure the motor mounts, exhaust, & throttle linkage will > work on a different engine. The throttle/brake linkage can be > rigged, but the price of the motor swap might not be worth it if > you need a new exhaust & motor mounts. I have some universal motor mounts that will work with just about anything, so should be ok there. Some of the engines were rear exhaust, and I currently have side exhaust, so that would be an additional expense to consider. Thanks for the advice, Doc "Doc" wrote: >>Easiest thing to do would be direct replacement on shaft style. That way, >>you know all your old clutch parts will work. Changing the shaft style [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Doc The extra Horsepower comes from having a balanced clutch shaft, as well as saving weight from extra parts. If you cut it off and then screw on a seperate shaft, you'll just negate the horsepower you thought you would have. Just a thought. Justin > "Doc" wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > Justin A very good point my man! Found out why the M16's won't run. Took both of em' apart and found that the sleeves were worn and the pistons were torched. The used motor I can understand as it came with all the other stuff I bought and had no idea if it worked anyways. The new one was suprising, as it was worse looking inside than the older one. Little pieces of piston dust everywhere. Was using Trinity 20/12 and 20/18, broke in properly, never run that hard, maybe 4 quarts thru. Must have been defective. Doc "Doc" wrote: >>"Doc" wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Doc I feel for ya! In the past, I've had crank bearings come apart and do that. Also theres a round "G" spring retaining the pin in the piston, and that's come out a time or two. Has anyone ever figured out how to change air filters w/o droping dirt into the carb? I was having trouble with that yesterday. I hope my trusty old TRX Pro .15 isn't torched. On the other hand, it gave me a chance to try out the new .12 CVR. Sweet! > "Doc" wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] > > On the other hand, it gave me a chance to try out the new .12 CVR. Sweet! That CV-R ought to smoke the TRX like a pack of Cools! In the nitro class bracket races, the CV-Rs would usuall only have competition from a few Rossi engines in the .15 and below. > I feel for ya! In the past, I've had crank bearings come apart and do > that. Also theres a round "G" spring retaining the pin in the piston, and [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > On the other hand, it gave me a chance to try out the new .12 CVR. Sweet! I use my air compressor and blow gun to blast the sh.t out of that area before I pop the air filter neck off. If it's really gooey, I'll blast it with some nitro-clean first to remove the grime, then blow it dry. Doc Simple..hold your rc upside down...just as you should when removing a glowplug. Has anyone ever figured out how to change air filters w/o droping dirt into the carb? Never cut the shaft! Off balancing your motor can cause serious bearing failure.I used OFNA part # 10098 for my nut on a clutch mod for standard crank mod.Traxxas,ofna,serpent,mugen,hpi,ect... Also the shaft is never too long! Use fiber washers and or a extra bearing.Never cut the shaft! Never! If the fly wheel does not fit use a reamer.Also with a SG shaft you can get away from the Grip spacer.This allows for the length.Reaming out the flywheel with a tapered reamer does away with the grip spacer. Hope this helps! Atom |
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