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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / June 2005Savage 25 is on the way............
Howdy y'all, Just ordered me a Savage 25 RTR from Tower...........should be here on Tuesday. Any model-specific problems I should look for or things I should do off the bat to prevent any failures? Next pay I'm gunna order the new 3-speed tranny, reverse module + servo, engine plate and engine mount heatsinks and a motorsaver air cleaner assembley. Also considering a nova products heatsink as I tend to run em' hard to the point of overheating. Might also upgrade to the bevel-gear diffs. Any advise or suggestions? Doc All your ideas sound good.. Just got back from playing in the dirt with my new/used Savage... The Nova Race head is good...running same speeds as my buddies Savage and he was running 40* hotter with the factory head and a ribbed pipe..I have a Nova head and a Cvec pipe... Golden Horizons has what appears to be some nice heads as well... If you go with a steel spur gear..make sure to get a super hard or steel clutch bell...shredded the factory 15 tooth today.. The adjustable aluminum hot bodies shocks did well ..and I was running some TRC Paq Man tires today..handled/jumped/gripped very well. My truck has the dual brake setup and they stop the truck instantly, although the factory brakes are very good as well. Just ordered the 4spider gear diffs the other day as well as some extra replacement parts like arms and knuckles and a screw set and motor saver filter ..pretty cheap off of ebay.. The only thing I have seen break so far (other than my clutch bell) is my buddies front knuckle after landing on the front tire while turned out after a jump... Only suggestions I can think of off the top of my head is to put some thick weather stripping on the top of the roll handle or the inside of the roof of the body , cause its gonna get dented for sure. Possibly also turn the rear body mount around backwards (drill new holes in body) to help prevent the rear of the body from folding when turning over... and if using a hump rx pack.. make a hole in the rx box and put the plugs on the outside for quick recharge without having to fiddle with removing the box. Mine had a hole in it from previous owner where they had an external failsafe..I moved the failsafe inside and ran the plugs through the hole and wrapped a bit of weather stripping around the wires and crammed back in hole with the plugs left external..I however would suggest with a new rx box making two notches over the on/off switch and putting the hump pack plug there.. Cut out the front window of the body so you can easily turn your truck on and off as well as get more air... Guess i need to go and order me a new clutch bell now........... Have Fun! > Howdy y'all, > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Doc Sorry if this is a double post as it didn't show up on my end.......... All your ideas sound good.. Just got back from playing in the dirt with my new/used Savage... The Nova Race head is good...running same speeds as my buddies Savage and he was running 40* hotter with the factory head and a ribbed pipe..I have a Nova head and a Cvec pipe... Golden Horizons has what appears to be some nice heads as well... If you go with a steel spur gear..make sure to get a super hard or steel clutch bell...shredded the factory 15 tooth today.. The adjustable aluminum hot bodies shocks did well ..and I was running some TRC Paq Man tires today..handled/jumped/gripped very well. My truck has the dual brake setup and they stop the truck instantly, although the factory brakes are very good as well. Just ordered the 4spider gear diffs the other day as well as some extra replacement parts like arms and knuckles and a screw set and motor saver filter ..pretty cheap off of ebay.. The only thing I have seen break so far (other than my clutch bell) is my buddies front knuckle after landing on the front tire while turned out after a jump... Only suggestions I can think of off the top of my head is to put some thick weather stripping on the top of the roll handle or the inside of the roof of the body , cause its gonna get dented for sure. Possibly also turn the rear body mount around backwards (drill new holes in body) to help prevent the rear of the body from folding when turning over... and if using a hump rx pack.. make a hole in the rx box and put the plugs on the outside for quick recharge without having to fiddle with removing the box. Mine had a hole in it from previous owner where they had an external failsafe..I moved the failsafe inside and ran the plugs through the hole and wrapped a bit of weather stripping around the wires and crammed back in hole with the plugs left external..I however would suggest with a new rx box making two notches over the on/off switch and putting the hump pack plug there.. Cut out the front window of the body so you can easily turn your truck on and off as well as get more air... Guess i need to go and order me a new clutch bell now........... Have Fun! > Howdy y'all, > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Doc Inline............ > Sorry if this is a double post as it didn't show up on my end.......... Both of em' came thru on my end. Out of curiosity, what fuel were you and your buddy running and what head temps were you (Nova) and your buddy (stock) seeing? Guess I'm scarred from the terminally overheating Megatech pieces of garbage I've been running for the past few months........... Doc ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// > All your ideas sound good.. > Just got back from playing in the dirt with my new/used Savage... [quoted text clipped - 58 lines] >> >> Doc We run O'donnells 20% with a MC9 glowplug... He was running temps of 260-280 degrees.. I was averaging around 220 degrees. It was a slighty to mild humid 87 degree day.. >Out of curiosity, what fuel were you and >your buddy running and what head temps were you (Nova) and your buddy >(stock) seeing? > We run O'donnells 20% with a MC9 glowplug... > He was running temps of 260-280 degrees.. I was averaging around 220 [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >>your buddy running and what head temps were you (Nova) and your buddy >>(stock) seeing? I'd say that was pretty cool :) S25 is a very good engine at being tuned and holding a tune though. Should be happy anywhere up to 300f really. At 220, i'd be tempted to lean her out for a bit more speed ;-)  SignatureDan > Sorry if this is a double post as it didn't show up on my end.......... > [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > Guess i need to go and order me a new clutch bell now........... > Have Fun! Personally, i'd suggest you change the steel spur for a plastic one. Plastic spurs, when meshed right, last for aaaaages and are much cheaper to replace than a clutch bell when things do go wrong. There needs to be a weak point, something will always have to give with enough impact, it may as well be a £3 spur gear that is quite easy to change :) I run plastic spurs and K4.6, and have had various other big engines in there, and i've only killed one when my engine got moved by a heavy landing. As long as you always make sure the mesh is good, and the engine screws are tight. Of course, this is all just my opinion :-) Personally, i'd also recommend a centre skid plate, just for a bit more reinforcement and dirt protection, alloy shock towers can be handy, as it is possible to break them with a bad landing. 6v hump is a very good thing. Also, if you don't have it, the cam style servo saver and a nice more powerful steering servo (i run a Hitec 645mg) makes the steering SO MUCH better its amazing. Annnnnnnd if you've still got a few £ left over, 40 series wheels and tyres improve the handling no end :) SignatureDan > > Sorry if this is a double post as it didn't show up on my end.......... <snip> > Personally, i'd also recommend a centre skid plate, just for a bit more > reinforcement and dirt protection, alloy shock towers can be handy, as it is [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > better its amazing. Annnnnnnd if you've still got a few £ left over, 40 > series wheels and tyres improve the handling no end :) Hi, I'm actually just about to go out and get a battery pack for the Savage. How did you manage to fit a hump pack in there?? Mines allready got the cam style steering and I've got a massive servo in there :) I love my steering as well! Cheers Dre >> > Sorry if this is a double post as it didn't show up on my end.......... > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Cheers Dre 5 cell 6v hump pack just fits perfectly in the space for the 4AA battery box :) SignatureDan > >> > Sorry if this is a double post as it didn't show up on my end.......... > > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > 5 cell 6v hump pack just fits perfectly in the space for the 4AA battery box > :) Nice! I've got my battery box here with me today at work and at lunch I'm off to the local model shop to get a pack for it. Thanks for the info! Cheers Dre >> >> > Sorry if this is a double post as it didn't show up on my > end.......... [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > > Cheers Dre No problem :) Not sure why i didn't find this newsgroup earlier really :) Must get some pics together of the truck at the moment and post it up with a nice spec list... SignatureDan > No problem :) Not sure why i didn't find this newsgroup earlier really :) > Must get some pics together of the truck at the moment and post it up with > a nice spec list... Dan, Glad to have you aboard! I wish this ng was more active as I much prefer NNTP to web-based forums. Maybe we can get a few savage-central.com guys over here as well eh? Doc > > No problem :) Not sure why i didn't find this newsgroup earlier really :) [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Doc Me too, no graphics, just plain ol text, fast no fuss and easy on the eyes :) Cheers Dre > >> >> > Sorry if this is a double post as it didn't show up on my > > end.......... [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > Must get some pics together of the truck at the moment and post it up with a > nice spec list... Yeah me too, pics will be up as soon as its more assembled, the bench in my workshop is covered in bits atm :) I ended up getting the battery pack at lunch, fits like a glove and will supply my servos with a nice strong 6v! I really need to get a body organised actually, thats one thing I dont have. Oh and a set of wheels, I need a stock set, the truck I ended up with had none as the previous owner had put stoooopid massive things on it and he kept em (good thing too, blegh!) I reckon, give me 2 weeks and I'll have it going, but probably with my T-maxx body and wheels :) hehehe Cheers Dre > "DanTXD" <dan405@SdanPontAherMun.com> wrote in message > Yeah me too, pics will be up as soon as its more assembled, the bench in [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Cheers Dre T-Maxx bits?! Sacrilage! ;-) SignatureDan > > "DanTXD" <dan405@SdanPontAherMun.com> wrote in message > > Yeah me too, pics will be up as soon as its more assembled, the bench in [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > ;-) LOL, yeah yeah yeah, it'd only be a loaner till I get real wheels and a new body :) Hell, I can sit there and look at this truck sitting on the bench with no wheels! I wanna drive the thing!! Cheers Dre Got the center skid and tank guard,cam steering with bearings,jr mg steering servo,6v hump and offset trc wheels ...and a robinson 49/16 steel spur and bell, which I personally suggest ;o) Also have some replacement complete diffs from the 4.6 with hardened ouputs just for when the diffs blow out...... Currently looking for polyamide bearings for the diffs in 10x16x5 (all I can find is the factory HPI B032..have already seen these shred on a Savage..anyone else have trouble with the factory diff bearings?) great tips! > Personally, i'd suggest you change the steel spur for a plastic one. > Plastic spurs, when meshed right, last for aaaaages and are much cheaper to [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > better its amazing. Annnnnnnd if you've still got a few £ left over, 40 > series wheels and tyres improve the handling no end :) > Got the center skid and tank guard,cam steering with bearings,jr mg > steering [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Savage..anyone else have trouble with the factory diff bearings?) > great tips! Personally havn't killed a bearing yet, but they do go in time. Personally, i get mine from www.jespares.com but they're UK located and might not be any use to you US guys - although i do beleive they ship internationally - you may be appauled at prices we have to pay for stuff though :-) SignatureDan Unable to find polyamide or even teflon sealed in 10x16x5 bearings..so.. instead of ordering metal shielded or factory rubber sealed HPI for $4.50-$6.00 + s/h for (2), I found some rubber sealed 10x16x5 at www.avidrc.com for a $1 each (halo bearings) We'll see if they hold up any better than the factory HPI B032 bearings........ > > Got the center skid and tank guard,cam steering with bearings,jr mg > > steering [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > use to you US guys - although i do beleive they ship internationally - you > may be appauled at prices we have to pay for stuff though :-) > Personally, i'd suggest you change the steel spur for a plastic one. > Plastic spurs, when meshed right, last for aaaaages and are much cheaper to > replace than a clutch bell when things do go wrong. > Dan DanTXD, Any tips on how to check the clearance between the spur and clutch bell? I can't seem to bend my eyeball to the right angle to get a good look. CaliberX >> Personally, i'd suggest you change the steel spur for a plastic one. >> Plastic spurs, when meshed right, last for aaaaages and are much cheaper [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > CaliberX I find if you shine a torch round and sort of look from above, and the side a bit, you can just see it, but it is a bit of lottery. I usually go by how it feels and sounds - of course, this takes time to get used to :) Another tip i've heard is that you should be able to run a piece of paper through it without ripping it, and should crinkle up nicely. SignatureDan |
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