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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / July 2006Battery Question
I have an Electric Traxxas Rustler truck and am trying to figure out how to extend the runtime, starting with the battery, right now I use a Megatech Megavolt 3300 mAh NiMH 7.2v. Is there a battery out there that will last longer? On Megatech.com I think I saw a 3600 mAh, that would last longer right? Anyone know how much longer an extra 300 mAh will go for? I also found http://www.nightmarechassis.com/ which is a new aluminum chassis, supposedly it is lighter for longer battery life and more durable than the plastic, also it is aluminum which is a better heatsink and this should help keep the battery cooler while in use. All of this is from the site so I could be wrong. This is my first RC model so I really know nothing about it yet. I was hoping to eventually upgrade the model to be more durable a little at a time when I can afford it. Is there a list of RC clubs on the net that I can look at to locate one where I live? > I have an Electric Traxxas Rustler truck and am trying to figure out how to > extend the runtime, starting with the battery, right now I use a Megatech > Megavolt 3300 mAh NiMH 7.2v. Is there a battery out there that will last > longer? On Megatech.com I think I saw a 3600 mAh, that would last longer > right? Anyone know how much longer an extra 300 mAh will go for? Probably not worth investing in the better batteries. I believe the stock rustler does not have ball bearings on the axles. If it has bushings, replace them with ball bearings. Also try different pinion gears. Both of these suggestions are cheap to try. How much runtime are you getting? What kind of battery charger do you use? > Is there a list of RC clubs on the net that I can look at to locate one > where I live? Where do you live? Also, if you're still using the stock "Stinger" 20-turn motor, I recommend switching it out for a better made motor. You'll gain efficiency and longer run times without switching to a new battery. A good 16 or 17 turn motor, with conservative gearing and modest timing advance, will easily outperform the Stinger motor in run time and performance. As an example, I've got an RC10T3 with a Reedy 16x5 (5 winds = extra efficient) handwound motor that just runs and runs and runs. I probably get 7 or 8 minutes of crazy performance on a 2400mah NiCd pack. Of course, the RC10T3 is lighter than the Rustler too. Rick R. > Also, if you're still using the stock "Stinger" 20-turn motor, I > recommend switching it out for a better made motor. You'll gain > efficiency and longer run times without switching to a new battery. A > good 16 or 17 turn motor, with conservative gearing and modest timing > advance, will easily outperform the Stinger motor in run time and > performance. Yes, it is a completely stock car. That is why I was looking at the aluminum chassis to help lighten it a little and make it more durable in case I wreck it. How much is a new motor? Is it a good idea to go to a lower turn motor, not sure what you mean by conservative gearing. This is my first RC model so I don't know much about it yet. > As an example, I've got an RC10T3 with a Reedy 16x5 (5 winds = extra > efficient) handwound motor that just runs and runs and runs. I > probably get 7 or 8 minutes of crazy performance on a 2400mah NiCd > pack. Of course, the RC10T3 is lighter than the Rustler too. Should I look into getting a different model? Did some looking on the web at the RC10T3 it is about 100 dollars more than the rustler, not sure how much lighter it is. Or if the Rustler can be upgraded to be just as light and durable. I was looking for a RTR that I could use offroad as well as on, so the salesman at the hobbyshop reccomended a stadium racer. If I were to get a new motor is how many turns it is the only thing I need to worry about? Would I have to change out the ESC? > Rick R. >> I have an Electric Traxxas Rustler truck and am trying to figure out how >> to [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > How much runtime are you getting? What kind of battery charger do you > use? I'm only getting 10 - 15 minutes runtime, I am using a MegaPeak charger from Megatech, it says AC/DC 4-8 Cell Peak Charger. >> Is there a list of RC clubs on the net that I can look at to locate one >> where I live? > > Where do you live? I am located in Columbus, Ohio. > I'm only getting 10 - 15 minutes runtime, I am using a MegaPeak charger > from Megatech, it says AC/DC 4-8 Cell Peak Charger. ONLY 10-15 mins?? That's GREAT! Anything over 10 minutes should be considered a bonus.................. BTW, I have no idea about the quality of Megatech's batteries and chargers, but their land and air models are CRAP (ask me how I know!), so I wouldn't expect their other stuff to be much better. I'd be willing to wager that with some non-Megatech batteries of similar capacity you'd see even longer runtimes. > I am located in Columbus, Ohio. Howdy neighbor. I'm about 2 hours east of you in New Philly. Doc >> I'm only getting 10 - 15 minutes runtime, I am using a MegaPeak charger >> from Megatech, it says AC/DC 4-8 Cell Peak Charger. > > ONLY 10-15 mins?? That's GREAT! Anything over 10 minutes should be > considered a bonus.................. Heh, sorry, Im new to this so I didn't know, it just seemed rather short to me. I'll go out and purchase another brand battery to check it out, any reccomendations? I'd like to hold onto the Megatech charger though for now since it seems to be working fine. The model number is MTC3812 I think. Is 3600 mAh the max for a NiMH battery or is there a larger mAh rating I should look for? > BTW, I have no idea about the quality of Megatech's batteries and > chargers, but their land and air models are CRAP (ask me how I know!), so [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Howdy neighbor. I'm about 2 hours east of you in New Philly. Not bad, if you learn of any clubs I can join, let me know, I'd like to learn more about upgrades and such. > Doc > I'll go out and purchase another brand battery to check it out, any > reccomendations? Reedy Black Label, stick pack, 6 cells. Should be about 40 bucks. It's a 3300mah, 7.2V >> I'll go out and purchase another brand battery to check it out, any >> reccomendations? > > Reedy Black Label, stick pack, 6 cells. Should be about 40 bucks. It's a > 3300mah, 7.2V Another poster mentioned LiPO in a different thread. Is this a good option for the extra money? If it dramatically extends my runtime then I wouldn't mind paying the extra cash. > >> I'll go out and purchase another brand battery to check it out, any > >> reccomendations? [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > for the extra money? If it dramatically extends my runtime then I wouldn't > mind paying the extra cash. nope bad idea. you'd need a new charger, and at this point LiPO is kinda dangerous. And it takes a long time to charge. 10 minutes of runtime is alot. Get a Dynamite Twin Peaks Charger, and two of the Reedy batteries, that and the battery you already own will give you more than 30 minutes. Depending on how you are geared running a long time on brushed motors, especially if the motor gets hot, you'll wear the crap out of the motor having to clean, rebuild it and cut the comm, and change the brushes. >> >> I'll go out and purchase another brand battery to check it out, any >> >> reccomendations? [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > especially if the motor gets hot, you'll wear the crap out of the motor > having to clean, rebuild it and cut the comm, and change the brushes. The motor does get hot when the truck runs for more than 12 minutes or so, I was thinking of getting a brushless motor, someone recomended a Novak Super Stock Brushelss System. > >> >> I'll go out and purchase another brand battery to check it out, any > >> >> reccomendations? [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > was thinking of getting a brushless motor, someone recomended a Novak Super > Stock Brushelss System. jeeze man, you mentioned you are totally new to this. For what it's worth it's really easy to get carried away spending money on this hobby/sport. If you want to be able to have maximum runtime buy a nitro vehicle, and just keep filling up the tank before it stalls. > If you want to be able to have maximum runtime buy a nitro vehicle, and > just keep filling up the tank before it stalls. Now yer' talkin' my language! Doc >> >> >> I'll go out and purchase another brand battery to check it out, any >> >> >> reccomendations? [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > If you want to be able to have maximum runtime buy a nitro vehicle, and > just keep filling up the tank before it stalls. What would be a good nitro to buy? Im looking for something really good, I only want to make this purchase once ;p, I'd like to spend less than $600 if possible though. > What would be a good nitro to buy? Im looking for something really good, > I only want to make this purchase once ;p, I'd like to spend less than > $600 if possible though. You're going to get a different answer from lots of people based on their brand loyalties and personal experiences.............my loyalty is to the HPI Savage. The Savage 25 RTR kit is right around $400 delivered and you'd only need 12AA batteries, a fuel filler bottle, fuel, glow plug wrench, glow ignitor + batteries and a few spare glow plugs to have everything you need. I absolutely torture mine and have yet to break anything except a spur gear, which is really my own fault anyways as I leave the slipper clutch cranked all the way down for max power to the wheels. Run about 2 gallons thru her so far. Since adding the 3-speed auto tranny and high performance air filter she's become a real wheelie machine and tops out around 38 mph with stock gearing (built for off-roading more than all-out speed). Doc > and high performance air > filter what does this do any different than the stock filter, to the performance of the truck? >> and high performance air >> filter > > what does this do any different than the stock filter, to the > performance of the truck? First off, it flows more air than stock (actually had to richen HSN 1/4 turn). More air and more fuel entering the motor equals more power. It doesn't affect top speed at all, but made a huge difference in off-the line power and gets up to speed much more quickly. From a dead stop I'm at full speed in under 3 seconds. Second, it filters the air better (3 stage as compared to the factory single stage) and requires MUCH less cleaning. With the stock filter, running in dusty consitions, I was having to clean the filter every 3-4 tanks. With this filter, I can get about 7-8 tanks thru her before I need to clean it. Well worth the $7.50 I paid for it on E-Bay! Doc If you want nitro, go nitro. I don't see me ever getting another one but this is not a nitro-v-electric debate so I will leave it at that. I have a HV-Maxx Brushless kit. With two 3300 packs in my Twin Force I can run for at least 15 minutes and the motor and ESC do not get real hot, unlike the dual 550 system I had before. I drag-race nitro trucks and keep with them no problem. Traction and keeping the front wheels on the ground decide the winner, not power. If I gun it at start the truck will simply flip over on it's roof. The power increase was dramatic and instead of losing runtime, I gained it! Talk about best of both worlds! I am currently putting the kit in a Thunder Tiger 1/8 scale buggy. So far it's been super fast but I keep blowing the gears out of it. For those that have not seen brushelss in action you really can't grasp how much of a difference it makes. If you have the money, it will be WELL worth it. Get tired of the Rustler you can move it to your next vehicle. > If you want nitro, go nitro. I don't see me ever getting another one > but this is not a nitro-v-electric debate so I will leave it at that. > > I have a HV-Maxx Brushless kit. With two 3300 packs in my Twin Force I > can run for at least 15 minutes and the motor and ESC do not get real How do you put two battery packs in the car? > hot, unlike the dual 550 system I had before. I drag-race nitro trucks > and keep with them no problem. Traction and keeping the front wheels [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > WELL worth it. Get tired of the Rustler you can move it to your next > vehicle. The Twin Force is designed to hold two batteries. It has 2 battery holders and the HV-Maxx speed controller has 2 battery plugs. The E-Maxx and E-Zilla are the same way. Yeah, stay away from cellphones since they can explode without warning! Cellphones, laptop computers, digital cameras, my GameBoy SP and lots of other things have LiPo batteries and have had them for years. Years ago when people first started playing with LiPo batteries in RC planes they did not use proper equipment (since it was not available yet) and as a result they blew things up. Modern battery packs with low-voltage cutoffs and LiPo chargers have made them as safe as NiMh packs. The newest chargers can charge LiPo batteries to 90% in 20 minutes. With the lower weight of the LiPo you will have more speed and longer runtimes even if you have a few less MAHs. Match batteries oz for oz and in 20 minutes you will have far more juice in the LiPo battery. When I say lighter I am not talking fractions of an oz, I mean cut your battery weight by almost half! See why the airplane guys went there first? Price is also coming down. It is still more expensive then NiMh and I would say if LiPo has a down side, this is it, for now. Check out this LiPo E-Maxx with 45 minutes of runtime! No, not a slow creepy crawler it is much-much faster then a stock E-Maxx. Again, price is a problem, the batteries alone are $180. I bet his brushless system cost more then the truck did new. The electronics mumbo-jumbo sounds scary but a modern voltage protector circut is $15 and will provide all the protection you would need. http://www.kmcsonline.com/casemod/emaxx/ > Price is also coming down. It is still more expensive then NiMh and I > would say if LiPo has a down side, this is it, for now. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > provide all the protection you would need. > http://www.kmcsonline.com/casemod/emaxx/ So, can Li-Po cells now provide the sort of current draw (100+ amps) that we're using in R/C cars? AIUI that was one of the main reasons we stuck with Ni-Cad for so long - they were better at delivering current than anything else. Ni-MH have caught up, though, so I'm prepared to believe the Li-Po is on the way too. Jonny > Heh, sorry, Im new to this you should check out all the forums at: http://www.rctech.net also check this out: http://www.crcrc.com/forums/index.php >> I'm only getting 10 - 15 minutes runtime, I am using a MegaPeak charger >> from Megatech, it says AC/DC 4-8 Cell Peak Charger. > > ONLY 10-15 mins?? That's GREAT! Anything over 10 minutes should be > considered a bonus.................. Well a few days ago I charged the battery but was too busy to run the truck, so before I ran it today I charged it up again real quick incase it had lost some juice from just sitting, after a few minutes it beeped and I put the battery in the car and took it outside, it ran for a half hour, I couldnt believe it. One thing I've noticed is the tires have a tendency to slip off of the rim from all the sliding I make the car do, Is there a better tire I could buy that won't do this or should I try superglueing the tire edge inside the groove on the rim so it won't come out? > BTW, I have no idea about the quality of Megatech's batteries and > chargers, but their land and air models are CRAP (ask me how I know!), Forgot to do it in my last post so here it is in this one, How do you know? ;p > so I wouldn't expect their other stuff to be much better. I'd be willing > to wager that with some non-Megatech batteries of similar capacity you'd [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Doc > Is there a better > tire I could buy that won't do this or should I try superglueing the tire > edge inside the groove on the rim so it won't come out? go to the hobby shop and get some CA tire glue. Ask them to show you how to use it before you do the job. Hopefully your hobbyshop is a good RC car shop. If not and you are really interested in this hobby/sport I'd find the best track in the area go there and tell the regulars that you are a newbie. They'll help you find local suppliers who are knowledgeable. > Well a few days ago I charged the battery but was too busy to run the > truck, so before I ran it today I charged it up again real quick incase it [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > better tire I could buy that won't do this or should I try superglueing > the tire edge inside the groove on the rim so it won't come out? New batteries take a couple charge/discharge cycles to reach their full potential, so it may get even better yet. Like the other person who replied said, use CA Tire glue. Bear in mind that CA will bond ANYTHING, including your fingers to the tire, rim, workbench, etc. Glue both the inner and outer beads. >> BTW, I have no idea about the quality of Megatech's batteries and >> chargers, but their land and air models are CRAP (ask me how I know!), > > Forgot to do it in my last post so here it is in this one, How do you > know? ;p Had two Megatech Gladiator (nitro) Monster Trucks. Biggest pieces of crap I've ever owned from the tires to the engine and everything in between. I averaged 1 hour runtime for every 4 hours repairing them. Biggest problems were motors constantly overheating, differentials stripping and transmission main shaft constantly wearing down to the point the one-way bearing wouldn't catch and move the truck. Several hundreds of dollars later I gave up and grabbed a HPI Savage which is indestructible IMO. 2 gallons thru her so far driving like a maniac and the only thing I've needed to replace is my antenna tube ($0.50) and a spur gear ($4.00). Have fun! Won't be too long till' you're in here asking about nitro vehix I wager............ Doc "Or if the Rustler can be upgraded to be just as light and durable." Ok, that made me laugh. The Rustler is far more durable then any T3 ever made. The Rustler is a brick! The bad news is it handles like one as well but if your not racing, then don't worry about it. I race a T4 but have a Ruslter also. I let new people race the Rustler so they can get a feel for what it's like without them tearing up my T4. The Rustler has NEVER been pulled from a race for breakage. Once a screw fell out, but I don't count that as breaking. I have seen it launched off a jump and get caught in mid-air on a piece of lumber by the front wheel. As it hung by the single tire the race announcer said, "Now THAT is a demonstration of Traxxas durability right there!" The turn marshall tossed the truck back on the track and it drove away. Enjoy the Rustler. It's a great first truck! Check out... http://www.ultimatetraxxas.com >> Well a few days ago I charged the battery but was too busy to run the >> truck, so before I ran it today I charged it up again real quick incase [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > New batteries take a couple charge/discharge cycles to reach their full > potential, so it may get even better yet. Yeah, I've been noticing the run times are kind of erratic, 7 minutes one charge 15 the next and then 10 after that etc. > Like the other person who replied said, use CA Tire glue. Bear in mind > that CA will bond ANYTHING, including your fingers to the tire, rim, [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > gallons thru her so far driving like a maniac and the only thing I've > needed to replace is my antenna tube ($0.50) and a spur gear ($4.00). I'll look into the HPI Savage for my next purchase then ;p, do they come in electric or only nitro? I avoided nitro because I know literally nothing about it. Are nitro models hard to maintain and tune? > Have fun! Won't be too long till' you're in here asking about nitro vehix > I wager............ > > Doc Angel this web site has a lot of tuning tips for the Rustler. I cant remember did you ever say if you have bearings yet?They will help run time. >>> Well a few days ago I charged the battery but was too busy to run the >>> truck, so before I ran it today I charged it up again real quick incase >>> it had lost some juice from just sitting, after a few minutes it beeped >>> and I put the battery in the car and took it outside, it ran for a half |
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