>> Ok, here is the deal, I bought a Speed Gems Pro Amber 17T motor to put
>> into
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> brushes out faster. Most current ESC's have thermal protection and they
> shut down if overloaded so you don't ruin the ESC.
Even the stock X-1 ESC? Since it is stock I didn't think it would be that
nice of an ESC. The motor isn't even burning hot, but the ESC gets pretty
hot, the heat sinks are burning hot but the plastic housing is just warm.
Plus it's been about 95 F here this last week or so. How much is a new comm
and brushes? The motor was only 32 bucks on tower hobbies site. Some Dirt
Hawg tires are next on the list to buy then some rims and a body and I'm set
for a while, maybe get a brushless but that will be a long while since I
want to get a plane too.
> I say go up to a 20 and see how hot the motor gets. If it's too hot to
> keep your finger on it go down to a 19.
I might do that, I was thinking of getting a better ESC anyway so if I fry
this one, no big deal I guess. The motor barely even gets warm actually. I
havn't run it full throttle for the whole pack yet though, Ive been kind of
babing it since I was told you need to break in electric motors so the
brushes sit on the come right or something.
Techpriest - 22 Jul 2005 20:40 GMT
You break in electric motors by running it for a minute or so with
no-load (not in a vehicle). Your well past the point of worrying about
break-in if you have driven it around for a full pack. Go have fun
with it!
Running part throttle all the time is easier on motor, harder on ESC.
When you are part throttle the ESC has to restrict the amount of
electricity going to the motor and this resistance causes heat. Try
playing with it like you really want to and check the heat.
To install a pinion:
Loosen the motor screws.
Remove the current pinion.
Install the new pinion but don't tighten grub screw.
Look at the back of the truck and push the motor all the way in, as it
would be if the mounting screws were tight. Check gears line up
together. Tighten grub screw.
Put a piece of paper between the pinion and spur gear.
Move the motor so the pinion is against the spur with the paper pinched
between.
Tighten the motor screws.
Rotate gears so the paper comes out.
You should have the gears close, but not mashed together thanks to the
paper that was in the way. You should be able to just barely move the
spur without having the pinion move. It might take more then one try
to get it right. Before long you won't need the paper and will do it
by sight and feel.
Do not over tighten motor screws. The Rustler has a plastic motor
mount and it's easy to tighten the screw to much so they pull through
the mount, or warp the plastic so that you will only ever be able to
mount the motor in one position.
As you drive on different surfaces, change motors and do other changes
you will want to swap gears so it's a good skill to have. Don't be
afraid to try it, worst thing you can do is ruin a $3 spur gear.
kenji - 22 Jul 2005 21:37 GMT
>How much is a new comm
> and brushes?
You'd have the comm cut, not replace the armature. Bruches are about 3
bucks a pair. When it's time to get a new motor think about the Orion
Revolution or another brand with the same angled brush technology. You
get way more runs between motor cuts and brush replacements.
> Some Dirt
> Hawg tires are next on the list to buy then some rims and a body and I'm set
> for a while, maybe get a brushless but that will be a long while since I
> want to get a plane too.
Remember that if the Dirt Hawg tires have a larger diameter than your
current tires there will be more rollout which means the truck may go
faster but it may also make the motor run hotter.
> > I say go up to a 20 and see how hot the motor gets. If it's too hot to
> > keep your finger on it go down to a 19.
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> babing it since I was told you need to break in electric motors so the
> brushes sit on the come right or something.
Generally a few minutes of run time breaks in brushes.