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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / December 2005REQ: Soldering motor tips.
I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the angled brushes.) Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is the best way to do it? Paggle  SignatureTake note of the face, vacant, yet with a hint of sadness. Like a drunk that's lost a bet. > I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the angled > brushes.) > > Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is > the best way to do it? Use a soldering iron with a big chunky bit rated at least 50w and let it get up to temperature fully first. In the UK the ones to get used to be the Wasp iron, nowadays I believe there is one from the Trickbits range, I can't find a picture at the moment to show you but I'll look a bit longer. Chris >> I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the >> angled [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Chris Thing is, it's the one with the alum bell end. I'm a bit scared of buggering it up applying so much heat for such a long time. Would flux be of any help? Another thing, Going by what I'm doing, the bell end would get as hot as the tabs if the solder was to take. Pagey >> I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the >> angled [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Chris Oyo Very!! Stupid F**CKER that I am!! Didn't realise until just now that I was using a F**CKING 15W iron! Someone F**CKING kill me!! Pagey, (now rather disgruntled.) >>> I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the >>> angled [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Pagey, (now rather disgruntled.) BANG!!!!! <you're dead> ;-) Kinda the way I feel after fighting with getting my nitro engine started with a DEAD glow ignitor! Doc >>>> I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the >>>> angled [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > Doc I wondered I have having problems braiding the heavy gauge wire. 80. Must be one of those days. Paggle > Oyo Very!! > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Pagey, (now rather disgruntled.) DOH!!!! I bet the bit was a small 3.2mm electronics one as well! the one on my 50W is 10mm dia at the heater end going to about 8mm at the business end. Chris ;-) >> Oyo Very!! >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Chris ;-) The tip I was using was a flat tip about 5mm wide, (I thought it would do the trick at the time.) D'oh! indeed. Paggle >> I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the >> angled [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Chris Just out of curiosity, what would be the safest max wattage iron to use for a motor, (without destroying it?) Paggle > Just out of curiosity, what would be the safest max wattage iron to use for > a motor, (without destroying it?) > > Paggle You can use anyhting within reason, just hold the iron on the job for longer for a lower wattage irion and less time for a higher wattage iron. When I used to work in an R/C car shop we had a Weller 75W iron for building cells <VBG>: stand the cells up after cleaning the contacts, plug in the iron. go and boil the kettle to make a cup of tea/coffee and the iron would be at the correct temp when you got back, then just clean the tip and about a 1 second touch on each cell end with the iron and solder would tin it ready for building the pack. Soldering motor wires is a similar speed about 1.5 to 2 secs when the tabs and wires are already tinned. I must admit even my 50W iron does struggle with these V2 based motors as the endbell is such a good heatsink; I let the iron heat up fully and use it to preheat the brush holder for a few seconds before introducing the wire and solder then about a 15 second or more break to build the heat back up in the tip before doing the second connection. Solder guns just won't work as they don't have the thermal 'mass' i.e. the store of heat to warm up joints of that size properly and guarantee a good joint, you may get the wire attached but give it a good tug and I'd put money on it detaching, that's always a good test for any motor or cell connection. Chris >> Just out of curiosity, what would be the safest max wattage iron to use > for [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Chris Good advice, ta. My dad used to swear by Weller. I noticed that they've produced a 80W version to replace the old 75W iron. I was kinda hoping to pre-tin the connection, (just to make life a bit easier for myself, for when it's eventually installed into my car.) Paggle >> Just out of curiosity, what would be the safest max wattage iron to use > for [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Chris What soldering iron would you suggest I get, and more importantly where from? TIA Paggle > >> Just out of curiosity, what would be the safest max wattage iron to use > > for [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > > Paggle the Weller 40watt with the thick tip. Here in the US it's about 17 bucks. I got mine at Home Depot. I've had about 8 others in the past four years and nothing is as good as this one so far. I'd like to have a soldering station but this Weller has been just fine. > What soldering iron would you suggest I get, and more importantly where > from? > > TIA > > Paggle Sorry mate, been away from pc's (funny that, as fixing the things is my job!). Right, well if you can guarantee mains whenever you're likeley to use the iron then go for a Weller with a big chunky bit on it, that 75W one your dad had sounds perfect. Just get a new tip on it if he'll let you keep it. Failing that anything from Weller that's in excess of 40W will do both cells and motor connections just get two different sized tips.. one big one for cells and motor connections, one smaller for soldering wires to battery connectors and to speedo PCB's (e.g. LRP Quantum). If you need portability then Apex models sell both the Trickbits iron and their own branded one, theirs appears to be a copy of theWasp iron that I have. I know both use the same tips so any CML stockist can supply the Trickbits tips for you. Don't bother with gas powered ones they tend to have the same problem as soldering guns as there is very little thermal mass to heat up (why do you think they are sold as quick heat!) unless you like leaving the iron to build up a big head of 'steam' and the hold it on the joint burning your fingers whilst waiting for the solder to melt and then hopeing the joint is a good one. If you can afford it the the best option is a temperature controlled iron, again you'll need one about 50W and at least two different sized tips (or learn to be careful using the corner of the large chisel tip) but they will heat up faster, maintain a good heat in the tip and compensate a little for you sticking them onto a stone cold brush holder! Weller can be got from RS and Farnell, you can order from either online, the trickbits iron can be got from any CML stockist and the Apex own iron can only be got from Apex themselves (www.apexmodels.co.uk). Try http://rswww.com and search for soldering irons. Have a look at the Magnastat irons and if you do order one make sure you get a 230V and not a 120v iron! On Farnells website (http://uk.farnell.com) they have the Antex range as well which seems to have a greater selection than RS do still nothing more than a 30W 12v iron with a small tip though so stick with Apex/Trickbits for the 12v iron if you go that way. Chris >> What soldering iron would you suggest I get, and more importantly where >> from? [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > > Chris That information is perfect. I did find an 80W Weller. BUT, the chisel tip was bloody massive, (about 1cm wide I'd say that the tip was roughly at a 90 degree angle. The whole shaft is about 1 cm wide too! :0. I suppose I could use that one for the more demanding tasks and the crappy 12W one for the finer stuff? Ta again Paggle > That information is perfect. I did find an 80W Weller. BUT, the chisel tip > was bloody massive, (about 1cm wide I'd say that the tip was roughly at a 90 [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Paggle Good choice on the Weller :0) Keep that one for cells and motor connections, get another tip then file it down to a smaller point and use that for the motor connections if space is tight. If you already have a 12v iron you might as well keep on using it for the light duty tasks such as battery connector to lead joints, speedo connections and for replacing broken RX wires ;-) provided it has a small enough tip. No more than 3.2mm for replacing RX wires or soldering any servo wire, it is too difficult to control where the heat gets to and you can overheat things far too easily. Chris > Good choice on the Weller :0) Keep that one for cells and motor > connections, > get another tip then file it down to a smaller point and use that for the > motor connections if space is tight. I haven't got it yet, but going by your reccomendation, I will. Ta. :) > If you already have a 12v iron you might as well keep on using it for the > light duty tasks such as battery connector to lead joints, speedo [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Chris You've been a great help Chris. Ta again. Paggle >> That information is perfect. I did find an 80W Weller. BUT, the chisel > tip [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > get another tip then file it down to a smaller point and use that for the > motor connections if space is tight. Purchased and done, soldering that tab was easier than p*ssing in snow. ;) Admittedly time spent on the tab was mere seconds. Happy days. :) > If you already have a 12v iron you might as well keep on using it for the > light duty tasks such as battery connector to lead joints, speedo [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Chris At least I have two irons now. Paggle > Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is > the best way to do it? on mine, I use a 40watt iron. I take an exacto blade and put a bunch of scores into the metal tabs and I dab a little bit of flux onto the scores, I heat the tab quickly, touch my solder to the tab and it leaves a nice amount of solder there. > > Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is > > the best way to do it? [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > scores, I heat the tab quickly, touch my solder to the tab and it leaves > a nice amount of solder there. That is one of the better ways to solder, specially on a gold plated surface because most of the gold plating done these days is done over a nickel surface. This gives companies a cheap gold plating alternative but gold has been known to flake off of nickel plated items that are exposed to high temperatures. One of the best tips for soldering is a good clean tip on your soldering iron. Cleaned with either a damp sponge or using a desoldering wick or braid or a copper wire brush. I also try to tap my soldering tip into a little drip tray that is on my soldering station to get any little drips of solder hanging off the tip before wiping it with the sponge. Liquid flux is always handy to have in your soldering kit as it is used as a cleaning agent to get rid of any oxidation on the material that your about to solder to. If you are soldering on a motor with a adjustable end bell, it is sometimes best to remove the end bell which will help stop the heat dissipation into the can or hold the end bell just below the tab where you are soldering with a pair of needle nose pliers so that the heat moves into the pliers before the rest of the motor. Cheers Richard >> > Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What > is [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > Cheers > Richard Now I can remember my dad using flux to solder copper pipes together, (well he was a plumber.) ;) Paggle >> Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is >> the best way to do it? [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > scores, I heat the tab quickly, touch my solder to the tab and it leaves > a nice amount of solder there. Cheers for that. I have to traipse around town now to find a decent soldering iron. Paggle |
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