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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / March 2006Question about engine compatability
I have a few questions about engines. I've been looking into aftermarket engines, and don't see much information about what engine fits different trucks. Are all the engines slated as "Big Block" designed with the same motor mounts and hole spacing on the mounts? I notice there is quite a bit of info on what will and what will not fit a Revo, but I don't see much information about that for my MGT, or for the savages, warhead, ect and such. . I was looking at some of the bigger RB engines, as well as some others, but like I said, can't tell what fits what. Also, is there any stand or device or such that enables a person to break-in an engine WITHOUT having it in the vehicle? I like in Alaska, and in the winter for quite a few months it stays below the reccomended break-in tempature that most manufacturers suggest. If I could break in a motor OUT of the vehicke, I could at least do it in a semi-warm garage. Then I obviously, could put it back in and go driving. Also, what is the general consensus on the best break-in proceedure? I have heard of "heat cycling", but don't know exactly what that means. Thanks all Inline............................. >I have a few questions about engines. I've been looking into > aftermarket engines, and don't see much information about what engine > fits different trucks. Are all the engines slated as "Big Block" > designed with the same motor mounts and hole spacing on the mounts? Generally speaking, yes. Most motor mounts are adjustable forward/backwards to you can position the motor on the mounts to line up properly with the spur gear. If memory serves, the motor mounts on the Traxxas vehicles are "fixed" where the scrwes thread directly into the mount (as opposed to thru the mount into a nut) which is why you see so many custom motors designed specifically for Traxxas stuff. So long as the crankshaft is the same type (just about all of em' are SG/pilot these days) your OE flywheel and clutchbell will fit fine. Backplates on the other hand are almost always different, so a rotostart/drill start from a stock engine A won't necessarily fit aftermarket engine B. >I > notice there is quite a bit of info on what will and what will not fit [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Also, is there any stand or device or such that enables a person to > break-in an engine WITHOUT having it in the vehicle? Bench vise! >I like in Alaska, > and in the winter for quite a few months it stays below the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > have heard of "heat cycling", but don't know exactly what that means. > Thanks all Heat cycling is the process of letting the piston and sleeve heat up and then cool down repeatedly by starting the motor up, allowing it to reach operating temp and then shutting it off, setting the piston at the bottom of the stroke and allowing it to fully cool. I generally heat-cycle thru 2 tanks at idle on the bench, then run 4 tanks rish at less than 1/2 throttle. Next two tanks are spent tuning with moderately aggressive driving. After that it's balls-to-the-walls. FWIW, my HPI S-25 has 8+ gallons thru it and it still runs as good as it did on day one............even better perhaps. My Mayhem has around 3 gallons thru it and also runs good as new. Whatever I'm doing must be working! I keep them under 300* but tune aggressively and use Marvel Mystery Oil as after-run oil after each use. HTH, Doc >Inline............................. > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >different, so a rotostart/drill start from a stock engine A won't >necessarily fit aftermarket engine B. Cool. BTW, what's SG/Pilot mean? I remember seeing something, that I can not find anymore, explaining how to shorten the shaft on some motor in order to fit it into a certian drivetrain. Do you know what perticular application this was for, so I might avoid it? >>I >> notice there is quite a bit of info on what will and what will not fit [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >Bench vise! When you do that, what do you have connected to the shaft, if anything? >>I like in Alaska, >> and in the winter for quite a few months it stays below the [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >Next two tanks are spent tuning with moderately aggressive driving. After >that it's balls-to-the-walls. Are the 4 tanks at half-throttle in the vec, or still in the vise? >FWIW, my HPI S-25 has 8+ gallons thru it and it still runs as good as it did >on day one............even better perhaps. My Mayhem has around 3 gallons >thru it and also runs good as new. Whatever I'm doing must be working! I >keep them under 300* but tune aggressively and use Marvel Mystery Oil as >after-run oil after each use. seems like an easy plan, thanks. >HTH, > >Doc Inline again............. > Cool. BTW, what's SG/Pilot mean? I remember seeing something, that I > can not find anymore, explaining how to shorten the shaft on some > motor in order to fit it into a certian drivetrain. Do you know what > perticular application this was for, so I might avoid it? SG/Pilot shafts are all the same length and only threaded where the flywheel nut secures the flywheel to the shaft. The clutchbell screw threads directly into the crankshaft as opposed to the longer flywheel nut on non-SG engines. Non-SG cranks are usually of various lengths and threaded the entire length of the shaft. You were probably reading about the old TRX .15 T-Maxxes WRT shortening the shaft as the old skool Traxxas motors had really stumpy cranks. > When you do that, what do you have connected to the shaft, if > anything? I have the flywheel, clutch shoes and clutchbell all attached. Exhaust is attached and I use the stock fuel tank with longer fuel lines. I usually use a rubber band or zip tie to hold the throttle closed as it will vibrate open. I only run the engines out of vehicle when they are difficult to start, need a major retune and/or may be fubared. It is really preferable to do this in the vehicle as it is much much easier! Just put the truck on a box with all 4 wheels off the ground in your garage and break it in that way. > Are the 4 tanks at half-throttle in the vec, or still in the vise? All of my break-in is done with the motors in the vehicle. It is best to have at least some load on the engine so when you have to blip it to clear the excess oil out the engine doesn't rev up too fast. The 2 tanks idle/heat cycle are done with the wheels off the ground with the occasional blip to clear her out. The 4 tanks at 1/2 throttle or less are done putting around my driveway (avoid grass, dirt, etc. as this increases the load on the engine and requires more throttle) with occasional WOT bursts to clear her out. After that it's time to fine tune and beat the sh.t out of it. Doc Thanks, I appreciate the info (I am the OP, , , posting from work. .. . government jobs. . . you gotta love 'em) >I have a few questions about engines. I've been looking into > aftermarket engines, and don't see much information about what engine [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > have heard of "heat cycling", but don't know exactly what that means. > Thanks all Any 'big block' .21 sized crank case engine will fit your MGT (RB 728, Novarossi Top 28, O.S. .30, HPi K4.6 etc etc etc). You want SG shaft because that's what your clutch bell etc are all designed for and it just makes it easier. As for breaking in out of the vehicle, you could do it in a vice I suppose. Breakin procedure - I tend to follow whatever the instructions that come with the engine say. But I usually get bored after about 20 mins and just go to WOT :) Never killed one yet - some people say the best way is to thrash them from day one.... If you're looking for an engine - consider an SH .28 Pro 6 port - they have mental power and are cheap. Ignore all the comments about SH being unreliable - the very first batch of the old 3 port engines had some problems (although mine, and a few other experienced people I know had them and they were fine, so I suspect user error...), but they've since beefed up the internals anyway so they're hard as nails now, and make silly power.  SignatureDan > >I have a few questions about engines. I've been looking into > > aftermarket engines, and don't see much information about what engine [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > and they were fine, so I suspect user error...), but they've since beefed up > the internals anyway so they're hard as nails now, and make silly power. Sell me you sav ;) >> >I have a few questions about engines. I've been looking into >> > aftermarket engines, and don't see much information about what engine [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] >> > Sell me you sav ;) No way :D It doesn't have a Sh anymore, just a K4.6 now - I do long for an SH 6 port pro though... SignatureDan > >> >I have a few questions about engines. I've been looking into > >> > aftermarket engines, and don't see much information about what engine [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > No way :D It doesn't have a Sh anymore, just a K4.6 now - I do long for an > SH 6 port pro though... If you sold me ur sav. You could afford a SH6 port pro ;) >> No way :D It doesn't have a Sh anymore, just a K4.6 now - I do long for > an >> SH 6 port pro though... >> > If you sold me ur sav. You could afford a SH6 port pro ;) Ask me again in a few months, I'm going travelling in November when I finish Uni and could well be in need of the funds ;) <excuse to post random photos> http://www.danontherun.com/rccar_files/Sav_latest_1.jpg http://www.danontherun.com/rccar_files/Sav_latest_3.jpg http://www.danontherun.com/rccar_files/rc_hcr_group1.jpg SignatureDan >>> No way :D It doesn't have a Sh anymore, just a K4.6 now - I do long for >> an [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > http://www.danontherun.com/rccar_files/rc_hcr_group1.jpg Now if you go and do something stupid like that what the hell are we gunna play with when you swing down to Ohio for some good ol' redneck fun? ;-) Doc >>>> No way :D It doesn't have a Sh anymore, just a K4.6 now - I do long >>>> for [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Doc Your sav :-p SignatureDan >>>>> No way :D It doesn't have a Sh anymore, just a K4.6 now - I do long >>>>> for [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > Your sav :-p Actually on a more serious note, I don't think i could bring myself to part with it, so much time and folding green invested! And if I did flog it, I'd have to get another as soon as I got back :D SignatureDan > Actually on a more serious note, I don't think i could bring myself to > part with it, so much time and folding green invested! And if I did flog > it, I'd have to get another as soon as I got back :D I don't think I'll ever sell any of my toys as I know I'd just regret it later. If the Savage goes the way of the do-do I'll just shelf it and display it. Look at what the old school Kyosho and Tamiya stuff is worth these days! Some day our stuff may very well be worth the same. Doc >> Actually on a more serious note, I don't think i could bring myself to >> part with it, so much time and folding green invested! And if I did flog [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Doc If it does go, it'll be reverted to stock, then the pricy bits will be sold seperate on the bay. SignatureDan |
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