Spur gears....

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Simon - 13 Apr 2006 21:13 GMT

why build them out of F***ing plastic when it butts upagainst a metal one?
Answer so we spend money on a metal one.

Few questions from your resident noob :)

How long should my plastic one of lasted? Lets try that in amount of fuel.
I've put just under a gallon of fuel through it.

Secondly..... The steel spur gears come in different number of teeth
options. Which one is best? What would 52t offer compared to the 47? I'm
thinking it's to do with acceleration/top speed.

Thirdly, wheres best to buy these spur gears (price wise) I'm looking to
wards dan on this one as he is felow UK.

--
Instead of a sig, here is a magic eye picture. Stare at these dots until
they merge into one.
. .
Great, now piss off you boss-eyed twat!

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ephedralover@hotmail.com - 13 Apr 2006 21:37 GMT

> why build them out of F***ing plastic when it butts upagainst a metal one?
> Answer so we spend money on a metal one.
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> There are 10 types of people in this world; those who understand the
> binary numbering system and those who don't.

Because its best to have the weak link on the outside and in a place
you can easily fix. A properly meshed spur will last a long time.

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nospam@noway.com - 13 Apr 2006 21:43 GMT

Inline...................

> why build them out of F***ing plastic when it butts upagainst a metal one?
> Answer so we spend money on a metal one.

Answer: so when the drivetrain takes a HUGE hit you only lunch a $5 spur
gear and not a $40 differential or $80 transmission.

> Few questions from your resident noob :)
>
> How long should my plastic one of lasted? Lets try that in amount of fuel.
> I've put just under a gallon of fuel through it.

I have 7 gallons on my current, 49T plastic spur gear. I got 3 gallons out
of the first 49T plastic one; it lunched when my slipper nut came loose and
she overheated and melted. If you've gone thru one that fast you have
wacked the motor doing something and thrown off the gear mesh or your
slipper is too loose.

If you check the gear mesh and slipper adjustment (leave it all the way
torqued tight!) after each bash session the plastic spurs will last
indefinitely.

> Secondly..... The steel spur gears come in different number of teeth
> options. Which one is best? What would 52t offer compared to the 47? I'm
> thinking it's to do with acceleration/top speed.

Different spur gear/clutchbell combos affect overall gear ratio and have an
effect on top speed vs. low end torque. Numerically lower gear ratios
produce more top speed at the expense of off-the line grunt, whereas
numerically higher gear ratios have lower top speed with more low end grunt.
Read about it here:

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/savagegears.jpg

> Thirdly, wheres best to buy these spur gears (price wise) I'm looking to
> wards dan on this one as he is felow UK.

Couldn't tell ya'; I'm in the US.

HTH,

Doc

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Pt1 - 14 Apr 2006 05:27 GMT

Dude....I have yet to strip out any Plastic Spur gears on my Nitro's. They
last quite well and keep the wear down on the Clutch bell. I'm all for metal
gears, but the only one I switched to metal was my Titan and it wasn't
because it broke. I just decided to put the upgrade kit for it in when I
added the Picco .26.

Actually, when I used to have a lot of electrics I wiped a few spurs, but
that was because they had a finner pitch then the Nitros do.

Patrick

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M78Ultra - 14 Apr 2006 05:41 GMT

To add to what others have already said...
IF you do go with a Steel Spur Gear...you will also need a Steel Clutch
Bell.
A steel spur will eat up a normal hardened clutch bell like butter.
I suggest a Robinson Racing combo if you do decide to get them.
With the Steel setup..wrench the slipper nut down completely tight and then
back off 1/8th or less of of turn.
(To allow for some slippage under high strain)
It's best to use a brand new nut so it won't get loose from a worn nylon
lock.

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Simon - 14 Apr 2006 20:46 GMT

God there's enough to learn :) I've brought a new plastic one and a new nut.
Whats the best way to set this up? Also "meshing" the engine to the spur.
How do I know if it is not close enough or too close?

> To add to what others have already said...
> IF you do go with a Steel Spur Gear...you will also need a Steel Clutch
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
> > There are 10 types of people in this world; those who understand the
> > binary numbering system and those who don't.

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Richard - 15 Apr 2006 03:26 GMT

> God there's enough to learn :) I've brought a new plastic one and a new nut.
> Whats the best way to set this up? Also "meshing" the engine to the spur.
> How do I know if it is not close enough or too close?

I start by tightening the motor mount screws down so they are just snug
enough to move the motor with a light tap on the motor mount and don't make
any checks final until the engine mount is tight. Thread lock is also
recommended on the mount screws. I have always adjust the pinion/spur by
feel, just so that I feel a little movement between the two gears. I also
check the gap for each 1/4 rotation of both the spur and the pinion just to
be sure that neither is off centre.

The other way as shown on the link below is the most common way for those
that don't no how to do the adjustment and of course the thickness of the
paper is of utter importance. The reason that the thickness of the paper is
important is because not all scales of RC cars and trucks use 32 pitch
gears, some use 48 or 64. These are much finer gears.

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/pinion-spur_gap/nsavage-pinion-spur_ga
p.asp

The method below for the slipper adjustment is pretty much the same for most
trucks. They just used the Stampede because they had a better view of the
slipper. Both Traxxas and HPI recommend a 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn out from all
the way tightened.

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/slipper-adjustment/tm-slipper-adjustme
nt.asp

If both are done correctly then you shouldn't have to worry about doing this
again for a long time. If you have a look around on the Misbehavin site you
find lots of other info that will help you out along the way.

Cheers
Richard

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nospam@noway.com - 15 Apr 2006 05:02 GMT

>> God there's enough to learn :) I've brought a new plastic one and a new
> nut.
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
> Cheers
> Richard

Excellent advice Richard; I will add that with the Sav it is very common for
the cylinder head to take a good whack on rollovers or bad landings, and
this can knock the motor off ever so slightly, but enough to screw up the
gear mesh. For this reason it is important to check the mesh after each
bash to make sure the motor hasn't moved.

Doc

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Richard - 15 Apr 2006 06:43 GMT

> >> God there's enough to learn :) I've brought a new plastic one and a new
> > nut.
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> > important is because not all scales of RC cars and trucks use 32 pitch
> > gears, some use 48 or 64. These are much finer gears.

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/pinion-spur_gap/nsavage-pinion-spur_ga

> > p.asp
> >
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> > all
> > the way tightened.

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/slipper-adjustment/tm-slipper-adjustme

> > nt.asp
> >
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Doc

LOL, This is the one and only time that I have ever munched a spur and ummm
the engine mount. Mind you this to be expected when trying to land a double
from only 10' in the air and going WOT. I knew it was stupid but we live
and learn.

Cheers
Richard

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DanTXD - 15 Apr 2006 21:40 GMT

<snip what I would have said>

Yup, that's all great advice, and taking 10' jumps at WOT is NEVER stupid
;-)

To add, I have a Robinson Racing 18/48 setup, they're holding up very, very
well. Got them from ModelSport, quite pricey but good stuff. Feel very well
made.

Plastic spurs, I usually just get them when I'm getting something else or
from eBay for convenience.

Signature

Dan

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Simon - 16 Apr 2006 09:56 GMT

> <snip what I would have said>
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> --

Well I paid £4.50 from a model shop for genuine HPI plastic spur. Alot
cheaper than modelsport, which surprised me. Haven't checked Ebay for prices
though.

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Simon - 16 Apr 2006 09:57 GMT

> Excellent advice Richard; I will add that with the Sav it is very common for
> the cylinder head to take a good whack on rollovers or bad landings,

Aye, I must post a picture of my not so shiny heatsink :(

> and
> this can knock the motor off ever so slightly, but enough to screw up the
> gear mesh. For this reason it is important to check the mesh after each
> bash to make sure the motor hasn't moved.

Also why I wanted to know about the savagex roll bar.

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Simon - 16 Apr 2006 09:58 GMT

> > God there's enough to learn :) I've brought a new plastic one and a new
> nut.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> important is because not all scales of RC cars and trucks use 32 pitch
> gears, some use 48 or 64. These are much finer gears.

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/pinion-spur_gap/nsavage-pinion-spur_ga

> p.asp
>
> The method below for the slipper adjustment is pretty much the same for most
> trucks. They just used the Stampede because they had a better view of the
> slipper. Both Traxxas and HPI recommend a 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn out from all
> the way tightened.

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/slipper-adjustment/tm-slipper-adjustme

> nt.asp
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Cheers
> Richard

Thanks richard.

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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / April 2006

Spur gears....