 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
| HomeDiscussion Groups General ModelsRailroadsRocketsRadio Controlled Air ModelsHelicoptersLand ModelsWater ModelsModelGeeks.com Contact UsLink To UsSearch & Site Map |
Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / August 2006Cleaning bearings
I started to pull my car apart last night to do maintenance after my run on the weekend. The wheels have a gritty sound after running it around on the dirt. I'm assuming its best to clean these out. Is this something you should do after every run? Or after a sandy/dusty run that results in the gritty sound in the bearings? How often do you do it? Also, not being familiar with bearings, what is the best way to clean them? Do you stray them out with some mechanical spray cleaner and then re-grease them? I'm assuming in re-greasing you just try to force grease into the bearing? As you can tell I really don't have much of a clue here so I'm trying to make it up and also rely on any info I get off here. I was also thinking, how often do you have to pull the drift shaft apart and re-grease that? After every gritty run also or does it last a bit longer? Ta Dean >I started to pull my car apart last night to do maintenance after my > run on the weekend. The wheels have a gritty sound after running it [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > Ta > Dean The bearings are all metal or rubber sealed so it shouldn't be a problem. When I do clean mine, and frankly, it's rare hehehe :-) I tend to just blast some water in the bearing areas, to get all the crap out, then douse it with a little WD-40 to stop it all seizing up. DO NOT grease the bearings, or indeed any external gears - as the grease collects dust/sand/grit and just becomes a grinding paste.  SignatureDan - on Laptop >DO NOT grease the bearings, or indeed any external gears - as the grease >collects dust/sand/grit and just becomes a grinding paste. ................and creates drag <grease>, hence creating more rolling resistance and slowing the car down! WD40 or another light oil is best at keeping them healthy and FAST! Doc >>DO NOT grease the bearings, or indeed any external gears - as the grease >>collects dust/sand/grit and just becomes a grinding paste. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Doc Hey a bit of maintenance we agree on hehe :) Although to be fair, I've only even been bothered to do it twice, and never on the Sav :) SignatureDan - on his PC Thanks guys. I have to admit this advice suprises me. The car I got came with little tubs of silicon grease for this purpose, and when pulling apart the bearings they were greased. But I do see the logic in your argument. I have some WD40 type spray which is designed for nitro cars. I sprayed them out initially with that and they were pretty spinning pretty free. So I just leave it at that, no grease then huh? I have some cycle oil which I used to use for my bike chain. Would that be better? Dean > Thanks guys. I have to admit this advice suprises me. The car I got > came with little tubs of silicon grease for this purpose, and when [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Dean Most racers will REMOVE the grease and run the bearings dry as it makes the bearings faster. Running them dry kills the life of the bearing, but if you're racing for money or sponsorship it's a small price to pay. Here's how I do mine: 1) Remove rubber or teflon seals to expose bearings. If metal sheilded, skip to #2. 2) Blast the bearings with dechlorinated brake parts cleaner. 3) Blow bearings out with compressed air 4) Oil bearings with 3-in-1 20W oil. 5) Replace sheilds. I do this...................rarely..................<Dan, I can hear ya' applauding!> Prolly should do it more often, but I just forget to be honest. Wheel bearings are the ones that wear the fastest, followed by the diff outdrive bearings and diff pinion bearings. I've never had to replace a center diff bearing. HTH, Doc Thanks Doc. I'm finding this information invaluable! This is all the stuff you need to know that should come in a manual. Dean > Thanks Doc. I'm finding this information invaluable! This is all the > stuff you need to know that should come in a manual. > > Dean But wheres the fun in that :) I think half the fun is working it all out... Cheers Dre >> Thanks Doc. I'm finding this information invaluable! This is all the >> stuff you need to know that should come in a manual. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Cheers Dre I was wondering where you'd gone to dude, look at all these posters :-) SignatureDan - on Laptop >>> Thanks Doc. I'm finding this information invaluable! This is all the >>> stuff you need to know that should come in a manual. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > I was wondering where you'd gone to dude, look at all these posters :-) I've asked several hobby shops and several club members. Every damn one recommended a different model and make of car to start with. Looks like to join a club and start racing you need to spend a minimum of £300. A half hour quick charger with auto cut off, that runs on mains or 12volt car battery power. Fully ball raced wheels with carpet wheels and a stick of some kind of resin to increase grip. two or more sets of frequency crystals. 3 sets of 3700 nimh batteries. Carbon fibre chassis. 27 turn motor. fully ballraced wheels and inner bits. Belt driven 4 wheel drive. A radio set alone costing 2 or 3 hundred pounds. > I've asked several hobby shops and several club members. Every damn one > recommended a different model and make of car to start with. Looks like [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > motor. fully ballraced wheels and inner bits. Belt driven 4 wheel drive. > A radio set alone costing 2 or 3 hundred pounds. Depends what you wanna do - I guess we're talking about some kind of indoor leccy touring car racing, so my knowledge ends here :-) If you wanna race though, sure you'll be looking at some investment I guess. For example, Nitro monster trucks start around the £250-£300 mark. If you wanted to race, you'd do yourself no harm starting with a Revo - if you go 2nd harm (dig around a few forums, and eBay) you can probably get something race ready and all in for £300. The advantage here of course been your leccy indoor racer can only be used somewhere inside and big, or outside and smooooooth, whereas the nitro truck can be used just for fun anywhere outside (inside if you have a barn or summet I suppose!) and doesn't have to just be used for racing. The initial investment isn't the whole cost either, you'll need spares, and other consumables, also, you will want to modify it with upgrades :) If you wanna start out though, my advice would not be to dive in with an all singing all dancing top of the range beast, start with summet cheap and cheerful, get some skills first so you're less likely to stack the expensive one, and more likely to make good use of what it can do. The driver makes much more difference than the car in my experience. Also, you might find you don't enjoy it and don't want to persue it, and you'll lose less money selling on a stock and un-modded lower end car than you would something high end and expensive. SignatureDan >> I've asked several hobby shops and several club members. Every damn one >> recommended a different model and make of car to start with. Looks like [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > lose less money selling on a stock and un-modded lower end car than you > would something high end and expensive. Sound advice. you are indeed correct that it is indoor leccy touring cars. The touring car track is closer than the nearest nitro track. The nitro track is also outdoors. I also know sod all about tuning. Then there is the antisocial noise of the things. I imagine an outdoor nitro needs even more open space than a leccy. I briefly had a cen mini monster. That was still powerful enough to break itself on tarmac when i tried to jump a curb. All that happened is that i ripped a tyre off and damaged a servo. I had a nikko racer a while ago. Drove it to perfection round my own street but it was not up to spec for racing. Got bored with it and sold it. Going round a proper track in organised races seems more challenging/rewarding and much less likely to become passe' so easily. >>> I've asked several hobby shops and several club members. Every damn one >>> recommended a different model and make of car to start with. Looks like [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > itself on tarmac when i tried to jump a curb. All that happened is that i > ripped a tyre off and damaged a servo. AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-) > I had a nikko racer a while ago. Drove it to perfection round my own > street but it was not up to spec for racing. Got bored with it and sold > it. > > Going round a proper track in organised races seems more > challenging/rewarding and much less likely to become passe' so easily. Yea you're probably right, racing's racing at the end of the day :) SignatureDan - on his PC >> I briefly had a cen mini monster. That was still powerful enough to >> break itself on tarmac when i tried to jump a curb. All that happened is >> that i ripped a tyre off and damaged a servo. > > AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-) What about Schumacher racing? >>> I briefly had a cen mini monster. That was still powerful enough to >>> break itself on tarmac when i tried to jump a curb. All that happened [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > What about Schumacher racing? Durability issues as well. CEN and Schumacher are in the same "league" from what I've read and heard. Doc >>> AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-) >> [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Doc What would you guys recommend as a starting point for a beginner dipping his toe into leccy touring car racing? >>>> AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-) >>> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > What would you guys recommend as a starting point for a beginner dipping > his toe into leccy touring car racing? H.....P.....I! Without question! Cheers Dre >>>>> AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-) >>>> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Without question! This one? http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/product.asp?productid=17715&catCode=265&tamiya=268 >>>>>> AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-) >>>>> [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > This one? > http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/product.asp?productid=17715&catCode=265&tamiya=268 Thats one of their cars yep, HPI make some really good stuff (Savage anyone?) and they make some very very good sedans (I have 4 of them :) They are competitively priced and IMHO are made from very good quality components. If you want to get into electric racing, see if you can pick up a second hand HPI Pro 2 off ebay or somewhere. That car is AWESOME and you should be able to pick one up cheap. Still be competitive in racing no worries. Anyway thats my pick of the bunch, cheap, plenty of spares and one HELL of a car. Cheers Dre >>> I briefly had a cen mini monster. That was still powerful enough to >>> break itself on tarmac when i tried to jump a curb. All that happened [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > What about Schumacher racing? I echo what the other said, but I do hear that apparently the leccy touring car stuff is a bit better. Your best bet would be to go down the club, see what people there run, what your local hobby shop stocks (it's always handy to have immeidiate spares availability) and what you just like the look of. It helps if you've got something a few people there run, because they'll be able to help you out with their knowledge and experience of the beast when it comes to maintaining and fixing etc, also you'll end up lending spares from each other when things go awry! SignatureDan > I echo what the other said, but I do hear that apparently the leccy > touring car stuff is a bit better. Your best bet would be to go down the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > experience of the beast when it comes to maintaining and fixing etc, also > you'll end up lending spares from each other when things go awry! Everybody different. guys running tamiya, schumacher, hotbodies, team Losi. Everyone slagging off schumacher but lots of people using them cos of the price. the team losi xxxs recommended to me for £109 RTR turned out to cost £300. Locall hobby shop recommended tamiya TB01. which isn't even ball raced. Next was TB02. Everyone at the club said that was ' a tub!' whatever that means but it didn't sound good. Forgive my ignorance...but what the hell is LECCY touring car? >> Belt driven 4 wheel drive. >> A radio set alone costing 2 or 3 hundred pounds. > Depends what you wanna do - I guess we're talking about some kind of indoor > leccy touring car racing, SNIP >Forgive my ignorance...but what the hell is LECCY touring car? Electric. SignatureDan - on his PC >>> Thanks Doc. I'm finding this information invaluable! This is all the >>> stuff you need to know that should come in a manual. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > I was wondering where you'd gone to dude, look at all these posters :-) Hehe :) I've been around, just been lurking. Havnt taken the cars out much lately, been mountain biking too much... Planning to tune up the old MP6 on the w/e though, as long as it doesn't rain (fingers crossed) Savage has been sitting in the corner for ages, last time I took it out was in a massive concrete car park. I remember one stack quite fondly, punched the throttle from standstill, did a massive mono (bouncing it off the wheelie bar, so for a second or 2, all 4 wheels were off the ground and it was running on the wheelir bar wheel :) well into 2nd, front wheels ballooning like crazy, fronts hit the ground unevenly, the whole thing started getting out of control, then at allmost full speed it looses it and flips over sliding down the carpark for ages on the side of the roof. The concrete wore a nice hole in the corner of the body :) Was pretty funny though! Cheers Dre ><snip>well into 2nd, front wheels ballooning like crazy, fronts hit the >ground unevenly, the whole thing started getting out of control, then at [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Cheers Dre Dude, that is AWESOME! I laugh my a.s off everytime my 3rd gear wheelies go gonzo on me, the rear starts diffing out and she kinda bucks a few times before attempting to destroy herself by sliding up or down the driveway. I gotta give the wifey credit, she can wheelie that thing better than me! She's running 40 mph, 3rd gear wheelies accross my entire property (1.5 acres) and has to let off only to avoid the neighbors fence. That lil' S-25 sure does hum when it's geared and tuned right. Doc >><snip>well into 2nd, front wheels ballooning like crazy, fronts hit the >>ground unevenly, the whole thing started getting out of control, then at [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Doc Do you find that when you punch it from standstill, it'll hit the wheelie bar so hard that it bounces a couple of times on teh wheel??? (if it doesn't flip over that is) Mine does which makes doing consistant wheelies hard, specially on hard ground. Grass isn't a problem at all. Its like trying to balance an entire Savage on the wheelie bar wheel :) Btw, found some old pics I took of my T-maxx when I bought it, the pics were dated Feb 2000 so she's over 6 years old! Last year I converted it to an E-maxx and ever since doing that its broken more driveline parts than it ever did in the 5 years of being a T-maxx :) Anyway, I decided to give it a birthday pressy, new MIP wide axles all round, new wide arms, new wheels/tires, a new body and a full service. Hmmm, all this talk, now I'm in the mood to take the Savage out, no wait, the 7.5, erm, sav, inferno, sav, inferno, sh.t, I cant decide!!!! Cheers Dre >>><snip>well into 2nd, front wheels ballooning like crazy, fronts hit the >>>ground unevenly, the whole thing started getting out of control, then at [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >>> >>> Cheers Dre I do love a big crash :-) >> Dude, that is AWESOME! I laugh my a.s off everytime my 3rd gear wheelies >> go gonzo on me, the rear starts diffing out and she kinda bucks a few [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> acres) and has to let off only to avoid the neighbors fence. That lil' >> S-25 sure does hum when it's geared and tuned right. Mine has been worked so it won't wheelie now. Suspension sooooooft and low end a little rich (just enough to take the edge off). They were starting to annoy me :-) Now it just launches, hard. > Do you find that when you punch it from standstill, it'll hit the wheelie > bar so hard that it bounces a couple of times on teh wheel??? (if it [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > give it a birthday pressy, new MIP wide axles all round, new wide arms, > new wheels/tires, a new body and a full service. Pics :D ? > Hmmm, all this talk, now I'm in the mood to take the Savage out, no wait, > the 7.5, erm, sav, inferno, sav, inferno, sh.t, I cant decide!!!! Just take the Sav, then you know you won't have to buy any spares when you get in :) SignatureDan |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2009 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.