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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / August 2006Novarossi 528X: Not impressed at all. . .
I have an associated MGT that I put a Novarossi 528X engine in, along with a THS8015T pipe. The engine was broken in properly, and I have it tuned so it produces good smoke, and temps get up tp about 280 after a bit of hard running. The problem is that this motor makes no real increas in powr over the MGT's stock motor. I did gain a small amount when I added the pipe, , ,but it just does not perform any better than a RTR engine. I'm running a novarossi c5 plug, and Odonnels 20%. Am I expecting too much out of this motor? Are there any tricks to getting this motor to work well? As I said, it is new, and the compression is great, so I'm sure that it didn't get ruined during break-in. It doesn't even sound very powerful, like the RB engine in my kid's revo. you can tell just from hearing it idle that it makes buttloads of power. I'm not real happy so far, any help will be appreciated. Thanks. >I have an associated MGT that I put a Novarossi 528X engine in, along > with a THS8015T pipe. The engine was broken in properly, and I have it [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > I'm not real happy so far, any help will be appreciated. Thanks. No personal experience of this engine, but I'd heard lots of good things. Does it wheelie? What gearing are you running? Does it sound like it is revving out? You should find as you now have more power, you can increase the gearing, not lose any acceleration and just gain more top and mid range.  SignatureDan - on his PC > >I have an associated MGT that I put a Novarossi 528X engine in, along > > with a THS8015T pipe. The engine was broken in properly, and I have it [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > -- > Dan - on his PC Stock gearing, and new clutch shoes and springs. It does not wheelie, even with the extra-firm springs on the shocks. Like I said, all around it is on par with the stock engine in the power department. Low-end torque seemed about the same as stock, and only increased slightly when I added the pipe. mid to high end power seems pretty much the same as stock, with either the new or the stock mgt pipe. It does NOT sound like it is over-revving, like would be the case with a slipping clutch, the engine is being loaded, it just doesn't have much torque over stock. Thanks. >> >I have an associated MGT that I put a Novarossi 528X engine in, along >> > with a THS8015T pipe. The engine was broken in properly, and I have it [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > the engine is being loaded, it just doesn't have much torque over > stock. Thanks. Hmmm, is this the 8 port or 3 port version? What was the stock motor, TTR.28 ? I must admit, that is a little disappointing, try changing the gearing (bigger clutch bell and or smaller spur) to give it more top end - you might find you lose no acceleration - but from what you're saying I doubt it. Maybe you just had the stock motor dialled in *perfectly* ? SignatureDan - on his PC > >> >I have an associated MGT that I put a Novarossi 528X engine in, along > >> > with a THS8015T pipe. The engine was broken in properly, and I have it [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > -- > Dan - on his PC It's the 3 port version. As for having the stock motor dialed in perfectly, I guess that is possible, it is a totally simple motor to tune. Also, there is a red plastic restrictor in the carb of the Novarossi engine, that the manual does not say anything about. It is 8mm, and I have thought about taking it out to see if that helps, but I seriously doubt it will help on the low end. Thanks. >> >> >I have an associated MGT that I put a Novarossi 528X engine in, along >> >> > with a THS8015T pipe. The engine was broken in properly, and I have [quoted text clipped - 56 lines] > have thought about taking it out to see if that helps, but I seriously > doubt it will help on the low end. Thanks. Ah no, that's the issue, get it ripped out :-) Should liven her up nicely! SignatureDan - on his PC >> Also, there is a red plastic restrictor in the carb of the Novarossi >> engine, that the manual does not say anything about. It is 8mm, and I [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Ah no, that's the issue, get it ripped out :-) Should liven her up > nicely! I'll second that notion! Richen the HSN at LEAST 1/2 turn before running it as they get really thirsty with bigger restrictors (or in your case, no restrictor at all). No experience with this Novarossi engine so I can't help ya' there, but other motors I've run with carb restrictors really wake the hell up when I've removed them. I've put them all back for fuel economy purposes (less pit stops = more a-mains) but for bashing I'll yank em' out for maximum HP. Your stock motor, was this the AE .28 (4.6) motor? If so, it's a ballsy little thing and it doesn't suprise me the 3-port Novarossi doesn't out perform it. More $$$ doesn't always equal better. Doc >> It's the 3 port version. As for having the stock motor dialed in >> perfectly, I guess that is possible, it is a totally simple motor to [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >Ah no, that's the issue, get it ripped out :-) Should liven her up nicely! Took it out and it gave it a little more power and torque, but she's not wheelstanding. Even though it did help, it's still not a very impressive combination so far. Although the clutch shoes and springs are new, it still feels like it is coming in too soon. Unfortunately, there are no spring options for that clutch (stock associated clutch). >>> It's the 3 port version. As for having the stock motor dialed in >>> perfectly, I guess that is possible, it is a totally simple motor to [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > are new, it still feels like it is coming in too soon. Unfortunately, > there are no spring options for that clutch (stock associated clutch). Ahhhh man, you're running the stock springs!? Those things are WAY too light! I think they're like 0.7mm or something lame like that. When I was tuning my buds and I went to kick up his idle speed a bit I was amazed that his truck started crawling along at what I considered to be a "decent" idle speed. If they're standard-sized springs and shoes (which IIRC they are) Mugen 1.0 or 1.1 springs and carbon shoes should work. 1.0mm springs --> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNJ81&P=7 1.1mm springs--> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAN9&P=7 Carbon shoes--> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNJ80&P=7 While the shoes and springs might not be compatible with other shoe or spring combos (like running AE shoes with mugen springs or vice versa), as long as it's a 3-pin flywheel the Mugen shoes and springs should work ok. The HPI Savage clutch shoes are cheaper than the Mugen's and work with the Mugen 1.0 springs if you need to save a little coin after blowing a fat wad on that italian mill! HTH, Doc >>>> It's the 3 port version. As for having the stock motor dialed in >>>> perfectly, I guess that is possible, it is a totally simple motor to [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > > HTH, I second all he says there. Super thin springs are not cool for real meaty engines like these. If it's not a 3 pin flywheel (although I beleive it is on the MGT) seriously consider investing in one, just a cheapo used stock Savage 25 one will do the job. SignatureDan >>>> It's the 3 port version. As for having the stock motor dialed in >>>> perfectly, I guess that is possible, it is a totally simple motor to [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > > Doc Nice one, cheers for the links, have placed an order :) I didn't have any clutch shoes spare since the last spare set got put in the Savage after it ate the first set... Cheers Dre > Nice one, cheers for the links, have placed an order :) > > I didn't have any clutch shoes spare since the last spare set got put in > the Savage after it ate the first set... > > Cheers Dre You'll love em'! I run the 1.0mm springs w/ Savage shoes (they last forever!) on my Savage. After 15+ gallons with the slipper tightened all the way down, this is only my 3rd set of shoes. Doc >> Nice one, cheers for the links, have placed an order :) >> [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Doc Niiiiiiiiice, thats what I wanna hear! I actually did a little whoopsie the other day as well, I ended up winning the auction for a brand new in box E-Zilla :) One of those I'll never win it but lets see. About 15 minutes before the end I got outbidded, then promptly got an email saying that the high bidder retracted the bid so I got it, LOL! Cheap IMO @ $410aus Gonna have some fun with that me thinks, but what I'm sure it will do is get me back into the Savage, she's been sitting on the shelf for ages being neglected. I haven't done *any* RC since I got back on the bike but the bug is starting to bite :) Cheers Dre >Ahhhh man, you're running the stock springs!? Those things are WAY too >light! I think they're like 0.7mm or something lame like that. When I was [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > >Doc I got a set of Mugen carbon shoes and a set of 1.0 springs, those springs are the EXACT same wire dimeter as the stock springs, and the combination only worked slightly better than stock. My CB might be a little toasted though, any reccomendations for cleaning one up? I'm still using the stock 16 tooth CB and 52 tooth spur, but I really don't want to gear down any. This weekend I'll race my kid's revo with a tm323 and see how it does. Really would like to see it wheelie though. Thanks.. > I got a set of Mugen carbon shoes and a set of 1.0 springs, those > springs are the EXACT same wire dimeter as the stock springs, and the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > a tm323 and see how it does. Really would like to see it wheelie > though. Thanks.. I just use 220 grit sandpaper to clean up any carbon goo that is left by the clutch shoes. It's course enough to eat thru the goo, but not coarse enough to etch the inner surface of the clutchbell. Doc |
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