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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / August 2006Well it was bound to happen............
Despite my admittedly anal maintenance and tuning regimen, I managed to cook a motor at the track yesterday evening. DOH! I blew the fubar out of my Sportwerks .26 7-port in my buggy at the track yesterday. Not happy about that, but sh.t happens I guess. Somehow the air filter element wasn't seated against the bottom of the air filter housing and this really fine dust was making it's way into the engine. 4 tanks later she just quit. Took her apart trackside and the piston and sleeve were ghandi. The dust was so fine that the bearings were unaffected. Luckily the hobby shop had a replacement piston/sleeve handy, so I bought it and installed last night. Gotta light her up tonite and break her in. M78Ultra................you warned me about this with the Motor Saver filters AGES ago! I guess the inner filter gets compressed after time and then doesn't make good contact with the bottom of the housing? I pulled up that message you sent me from way back and I had the same thing happen that your bud did; first indication of a problem was a dirt trail down the back of the filter neck, next symptom was bang, pop, fizzle, flameout. What really pisses me off was I was doing quite well before she quit! I really need to start packing a backup mill with me when I go. Doc Not good. Sorry to here about the .26 going kaput. Yeah, I stopped using the Motor Saver filters and went back to regular large 2 stage filters with capped ends. I got tired of the forward facing screen end gumming all up and collecting dirt. Yep, you have to make sure the inner filter is seated all the way down on the MS filters.One little lift at the bottom of the filter becomes a dirt vacuum trail straight to the motor. I think the mesh screen also will slighty snag the filters and hold them from seating well. Also, though not real common, I have seen the front screen pop off and the filter come out upon a top lunch. Hopefully the new piston/sleeve wasn't too expensive. I would think there's a point where a new motor would be more cost effective. Good Luck Man! > Despite my admittedly anal maintenance and tuning regimen, I managed to cook > a motor at the track yesterday evening. DOH! I blew the fubar out of my [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Doc Inline.................... > Not good. > Sorry to here about the .26 going kaput. > Yeah, I stopped using the Motor Saver filters and went back to regular > large > 2 stage filters with capped ends. I thought about that yesterday while I was in the shop getting the piston/sleeve. Then I remembered that I've run MS stuff on everything since new and I've never had a problem before. I've run out there in the extreme dust many a time w/o fail, and it's kept my Savage motor going for almost 16 gallons. So, chalk it up to a fluke. If it happens again I'll switch back to capped filters. > I got tired of the forward facing screen end gumming all up and collecting > dirt. Yep, you have to make sure the inner filter is seated all the way [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > real common, I have seen the front screen pop off and the filter come out > upon a top lunch. Never had a top pop off before!! > Hopefully the new piston/sleeve wasn't too expensive. I would think > there's > a point where a new motor would be more cost effective. The psiton/sleeve was $49.99. New motor was $129.99. Had the bearings got cooked or the head button got etched from the dust I would have just bought a new motor, but they were still smooth and quiet and the head button was unaffected so I took the cheaper route. This dust is super fine, almost like talc, so all it really did was wet-sand the piston and left everything else alone. > Good Luck Man! Got her all broke in and screaming again! I ran my idle tank thru it last night, and then ran my tuning tanks this afternoon. The Sportwerks .26 engines really are a pleasure to break in and super easy to tune. She was tight and twitchy for the first 3 tanks or so, started loosening up by the 4th tank, and by tank 6 was running quite well. Tank 7 and 8 were spent brutalizing it. Temps were 240*-270*. Doc ////////////////////////////////////////////////////// >> Despite my admittedly anal maintenance and tuning regimen, I managed to > cook [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] >> >> Doc > Despite my admittedly anal maintenance and tuning regimen, I managed to > cook a motor at the track yesterday evening. DOH! I blew the fubar out of [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > What really pisses me off was I was doing quite well before she quit! I > really need to start packing a backup mill with me when I go. Had to happen in the end :-) The STS is loosening up nicely now, ran a few more tanks through tonight, but my manifold kept popping oout of the coupler, then the spring managed to eat through the manifold itself which was annoying as I didn't have a spare :( Never mind - a new one has been sourced and should be here tuesday :-) Now its closer to a proper tune, bloody hell it *goes*. Even on 18/48 gearing... Although the stock HPi teflon 3 shoe doesn't seem to be up to the job, lot of slip, the bell has gone blue with the heat! Recommendations? Has to be something that will wear well.  SignatureDan - on his PC >> Despite my admittedly anal maintenance and tuning regimen, I managed to >> cook a motor at the track yesterday evening. DOH! I blew the fubar out [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > the job, lot of slip, the bell has gone blue with the heat! > Recommendations? Has to be something that will wear well. Aluminum with 1.0 or 1.1 springs should do the trick. With all that power on tap the poor teflon shoes will be ghandi in no time! Doc >>> Despite my admittedly anal maintenance and tuning regimen, I managed to >>> cook a motor at the track yesterday evening. DOH! I blew the fubar out [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > Aluminum with 1.0 or 1.1 springs should do the trick. With all that power > on tap the poor teflon shoes will be ghandi in no time! Yea this has been suggested to me :-) A Hong Nor longlife alu 3 shoe set and springs is on its way to me. It comes with some thick springs and some thin ones, I assume the thick are a better bet for such a big torquey motor? >> Aluminum with 1.0 or 1.1 springs should do the trick. With all that >> power on tap the poor teflon shoes will be ghandi in no time! [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > some thin ones, I assume the thick are a better bet for such a big torquey > motor? The thicker ones will engage later for more off-the line punch and will hold harder at full tilt for less slippage at WOT. For bashing I'd go with the thick ones. The only time I run thinner springs is when I want some slippage such as when racing on a really loose track. Doc >>> Aluminum with 1.0 or 1.1 springs should do the trick. With all that >>> power on tap the poor teflon shoes will be ghandi in no time! [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Doc Thick it is then! I'll bang em on and take a pic next week! SignatureDan - on his PC |
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