Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
Home
Discussion Groups
General
ModelsRailroadsRockets
Radio Controlled
Air ModelsHelicoptersLand ModelsWater Models
ModelGeeks.com
Contact UsLink To UsSearch & Site Map

Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / September 2006



Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

MTA4 / Monster GT run in

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Gary - 05 Sep 2006 15:20 GMT
Hello,

Read the manual and took advice from the LHS with regards to running in the
"Thunder Tiger PRO-28BD-R (4.6cc)" engine on the MTA4.  The manual suggests
setting the engine to its richest setting and driving around a flat hard
surface for the first tank, slow driving .  The LHS suggests the same, but
says instead of driving, to idle the tank for the first tank, then slowly
drive the truck around for the next 4 or 5 tanks.

The manual says the engine WILL stall at many points during this procedure
(no kidding!).

So far I have emptied one tank of fuel with the truck not quite moving, but
it's at the point where it looks like it wants to launch forward and away,
sort of bobs back and forth...the engine stalled 5 or 6 times in 5 minutes
before it stayed on the whole way.  I had to keep adjusting a little dial on
the Transmitter to try and get the sound of the engine the way I thought
sounded healthiest....not to high or low, just a constant pitch....

During the first tank, blue smoke was fairly obvious as was a small but
constant dribble of dark brown gunk from the exhaust - presumably this is
due to the "richest setting"?

I have not started the second tank yet....does it sound like I am doing this
right so far?  I am sh.tting myself from the prospect of breaking my new toy
(again!) :)

Gary.
Gary - 05 Sep 2006 15:32 GMT
Page 13 of this document has the break in instructions:

PDF:
http://trp-modellbau.de/download/bauanleitungen/mta4-english.pdf#search=%22MTA4%
20break%20in%22


Or via GOOGLE HTML:
http://66.102.9.104/search?q=cache:85Z_gFcUPEwJ:trp-modellbau.de/download/bauanl
eitungen/mta4-english.pdf+MTA4+break+in&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=23


Cheers,

Gary.

> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> Gary.
Gary - 05 Sep 2006 15:41 GMT
I just read this is for the .21 engine, the instructions look identical
though...

G.

> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> Gary.
DanTXD - 05 Sep 2006 16:12 GMT
>I just read this is for the .21 engine, the instructions look identical
>though...

Yea they will be, big block engines are much of a muchness.

Signature

Dan - on his PC

DanTXD - 05 Sep 2006 16:12 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> this right so far?  I am sh.tting myself from the prospect of breaking my
> new toy (again!) :)

Yup all good so far.  You want it to idle at the lowest revs it will really.
The brown gunk is all the excess unburnt fuel dripping out, that's due to
the super rich setting.  It's going well so far.  If it won't move then it's
probably even too rich.  Consider leaning it just enough so you can drive it
round slowly - using 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, varying the speed.

Signature

Dan - on his PC

Dre - 06 Sep 2006 06:23 GMT
>> Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> then it's probably even too rich.  Consider leaning it just enough so you
> can drive it round slowly - using 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, varying the speed.

Only being hellishly picky here, but the brown goop would be the caster oil
(which as you know, they mix into the fuel)

Cheers Dre
Richard - 05 Sep 2006 20:50 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Gary.

Yep, sounds like your doing everything right, but I would just check and
make sure the HSN is set to 2.5 turns out, count the turns as your screwing
the needle in and then just wind it back out to 2.5 turns.

Also I vaguely remember you saying you are in Scotland and if its been humid
while you've been breaking the truck in then this will play a part in how
rich or lean its running.  High humidity means it should be set a little
leaners and this could be the reason that it keeps stalling.

One of the hardest things when your new to the hobby is doing things by the
book, its a game of patients.  At the moment the manual is your bible,
it'll tell you almost everything you need to no.  If you've read it from
front to back twice then you should be a little more fimilar with the truck
and the controls, dials and settings.

You just got to keep doing what the manual tells you. until your through
with the break-in then you can start tuning for performance and even then
you will find that until you get to about 10 tanks of fuel through it, that
it will still be getting stronger and faster.

Good Luck and let us know when your finished with the break-in procedure.

Cheers
Badass - 05 Sep 2006 21:54 GMT
> Good Luck and let us know when your finished with the break-in procedure.
>
> Cheers

Ta,

Lots of rain today so still only 1 tank down...hopefully will get it out
tomorrow night if the office doesnt prove to be as hectic as today!!!
Straight to the pub for a few pints this evening, STRESSED!

Gary.
carlhako - 06 Sep 2006 08:18 GMT
> > Good Luck and let us know when your finished with the break-in procedure.
> >
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Gary.

Why does everyone use this as an excuse? whats wrong with driving it in
the wet? would make it more fun imo sliding it around :) i know it is
in a real car
Richard - 06 Sep 2006 11:28 GMT
> > > Good Luck and let us know when your finished with the break-in procedure.
> > >
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> the wet? would make it more fun imo sliding it around :) i know it is
> in a real car

If you read the original post he only has one tank through the new truck
(break-in requires 4 or 5 tanks).  Sliding it around in the wet would
require more than slow, idle running speed.

During the break-in procedure the purpose is to slowly heat the motor up to
running temp to seat the piston into the cylinder sleave, running the motor
with rain pouring down on top of the cooling head is defeating the purpose
by cooling the head back down.

Despite all your thinking electronics and water don't mix and unless you
have a endless budget I wouldn't recommend doing so.  Drowning your servos
in water may not stop them working immediately but over time and with heat
build-up they will sizzle on you and probably take out more than just your
servos in the destruction.

If you would like a example of this take your battery pack out of your
truck/car connect a think plastic coated wire to the positive (+) and then
to the negative(-) leads of the battery pack and hold the wire between your
fingers, when you smell skin burning you have succeeded in the reasoning of
why you don't run your car/truck in the rain.

End of lesson.

Cheers
halatos@gmail.com - 06 Sep 2006 20:55 GMT
> During the first tank, blue smoke was fairly obvious as was a small but
> constant dribble of dark brown gunk from the exhaust - presumably this is
> due to the "richest setting"?

You're running plenty rich if you have oil running out of the exhaust.
Depending upon the layout of your truck you might be able to leave the
glo-heater attached or rig it to remain energized if you have one of
the removable starter packs which will help keep it from stalling
during the first tank or two. After that you can start leaning it down
and then it will keep running on its own.

I had the same problem with stalling/etc with my OS .18TZST until I
left the heater attached and got through the first two tanks.

Chris
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.