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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / September 2006Got me LST2 Running
Hi Guys I finally got my lst2 running started running the engine in so far here are my experiences as a noob First starting the engine was a pain first filled the tank with fuel tried to prime it, i took the hose off the exhaust and blew in it waiting to see the fuel enter the carby i didnt see it and blew really hard still couldnt see it so i hooked the hose back up, put my finger over the exhaust and turned the engine over, fuel starting comming out around the glow plug. I flooded the hell outa the engine so much the air filter was dripping with fuel. i drained the fuel outa the engine spent ages trying to start it and nothing i gave up. I tried a few hrs later i worked out the glow plug wasnt glowing, crappy cheap a.s c batteries from the supermarket go flat after about 5 seconds on the glow plug, i ended up shoving a AA into the glow starter engine fired up straight away. The engine on lst2s are great for noobs i had the thing running so blubbering rich it wouldnt rev high enough to engage the clutch i kept leaning the hsn about 2-3hrs at a time until it would start to move i ran it around untill getting it upto temp, im doing the heat cycle run in method. During my first run when the engine was very rich and wouldnt move, when it idled the engine would slowly keep reving up until i blipped the throttle which would rev higher the car would move a few meters then drop down to a slow idle after releasing the throttle, then slowly increase again. Im guessing i had the lsn too lean so after the engine cooled at bdc i tried again this time with the lsn a little richer, this time it idled fine. Man the car flies and its still in its first ltr and tuned really rich. Would my diagnosis be correct lsn too lean? > Hi Guys > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > this time it idled fine. Man the car flies and its still in its first > ltr and tuned really rich. Would my diagnosis be correct lsn too lean? Did you touch the LSN at all from factory settings? Mach engines have a super rich LSN from the factory and the tendency is to lean the LSN while breaking in. NEVER, EVER touch the LSN until HSN has been adjusted. EVER!!! If you did touch the LSN, I'd crack open your engine manual, restore the LSN to factory needle settings before continuing. Now then, the idle speed will increase as the engine warms up (this is most pronounced when breaking in a new motor when it's running rich), so it is possible that this was just the engine heating up and becoming more efficient at making the slobbery-rich mixture go boom. Blipping the throttle blasted cool fuel into the motor, cooled it a bit and hence lowered the idle. Until you've run 5-6 tanks thru it the idle will be erratic anyways. One sign I use to let me know the engine is almost broke in is when the idle calms down and stabilizes. You do have a temp gauge of some sort right? If so, what temps were you running? Doc > You do have a temp gauge of some sort right? If so, what temps were you > running? yup a duratrax one, 1st run 108'C 2nd run 98'C i think the second run was cooler due to the lsn being richer. The manual says hsn 4 turns out, lsn 2 turns out. the motor came lsn - 4 turns out, hsn - 6 turns out. because i had so many problems getting it running the first time i did touch them thinking it was running too rich when it was just the battery. i will l get as many runs as i can this arvo, cooling the engine with a fan. >> You do have a temp gauge of some sort right? If so, what temps were you >> running? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > i will l get as many runs as i can this arvo, cooling the engine with a > fan. Don't use a fan, let it get hot and then let it cool SSSLLLLOOOWWLLLYYY. That's the secret of heat cycling. Those temps are right on the money BTW! The temps will actually start to decline once some of the pinch is worked out during break in. The Mach's start producing power 240-250-ish (farenheit) and seem most comfortable between 260-280*. My buggy and truggy will both push 300* on a long main or long bash session; it don't bother them one bit. Doc > Don't use a fan, let it get hot and then let it cool SSSLLLLOOOWWLLLYYY. some people suggest wrapping the head in alfoil to heat the bugger up i didnt try this >> Don't use a fan, let it get hot and then let it cool SSSLLLLOOOWWLLLYYY. > > some people suggest wrapping the head in alfoil to heat the bugger up i > didnt try this Generally speaking you need to get the engine 200-220-ish (which you have!) before it'll start breaking in. Some motors will run 140-180-ish when really rich; it is useful to wrap the head in alu foil in these situations as it'll allow the motor to heat better. During the winter months, when there is snow on the ground I put a tube sock over my cylinder head to allow it to reach running temp quicker; same principle. Doc im upto my 6th run now about 3 more to go before i start hammering it :) wow it goes fast the last run i did after about 2min it suddenly took off like a rocket ive got it set to low range so its a little easier on the engine driving on the grass, for the first time it kicked into 2nd. I cant imagine how fast this thing will go when set to high range and engine tuned. > im upto my 6th run now about 3 more to go before i start hammering it > :) [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I cant imagine how fast this thing will go when set to high range and > engine tuned. The Mach engines are INSANE! I ran the first two break-in tanks thru my new Sportwerks .26 (aka Mach .26) this evening and.....damn! Thing is already faster than the S-25 ever was and is still blubbering rich. 1/4 throttle blips bring the front wheels off the ground. Seems to like the HPI polished pipe thus far, and if it continues to run this good I might throw a polished pipe on my truggy as well. In my experience, Mach engines are the easiest to break in and tune other than O.S. engines <actually about equal>. Once I got the needles adjusted to where it would stay running the damn thing is practically breaking itself in. They do break in much, much quicker than most engines. If you've run 6 full tanks thru it and heat cycled after each tank, she's ready to rock and roll. Doc Ive probably got around 2 full tanks through it. Going by the heat cycling guide im following im nearly ready to start thrashing the engine. Ive got 2 more cycles to do at 4min. I think i have probably been pushing the engine a little too hard during break in and running a little too lean. Will see how it goes > Ive probably got around 2 full tanks through it. Going by the heat > cycling guide im following im nearly ready to start thrashing the > engine. Ive got 2 more cycles to do at 4min. I think i have probably > been pushing the engine a little too hard during break in and running a > little too lean. Will see how it goes I think you're doing fine. I break mine in rather aggressively and they still last forever. As long as you're not doing balls-to-the-walls, full throttle driving during break-in it'll be just fine. Hell, on break-in tank two I was popping rolling wheelies up my driveway! I've only been into 2nd gear twice, haven't hit 3rd yet. I have to run out and grab some more fuel this AM and once the dew burns off I'm going to finish breaking her in and give her the final lean. Doc Took it out today for its first bashing. First tank was in some short/medium grass i wasnt impressed with the speed it didnt seem to kick into 2nd. 2nd run on a gravel driveway with a mini round about, it ran awesome! screaming up and down the driveway ripping the driveway to shreds lol. I think i need to lean it out a little i have a definit smoke trail through entire rev range but i cannot get it to lift front wheels off the ground. The things pretty durable i hit a tree which stoped it dead in its tracks at a fairly high speed, just chucked it in reverse and kept going :) I managed to break something i hit some rocks at about 1/2 speed the engine instantly stopped i thought it ran outa fuel but there was a little bit left. When i push the car along the ground a metal to metal grinding noise comes from the clutch bell im guessing i snapped the spring in there. Ill pull the gears and clutchbell off and check tomorrow, hopefully the lhs will have something that fits. > Took it out today for its first bashing. First tank was in some > short/medium grass i wasnt impressed with the speed it didnt seem to [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > spring in there. Ill pull the gears and clutchbell off and check > tomorrow, hopefully the lhs will have something that fits. Engines stopping dead from impact is often not a good sign :-) The LST has one of those 2 cog clutch bells doesn't it? Had a chance to take it apart yet?  SignatureDan > Took it out today for its first bashing. First tank was in some > short/medium grass i wasnt impressed with the speed it didnt seem to [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > spring in there. Ill pull the gears and clutchbell off and check > tomorrow, hopefully the lhs will have something that fits. The only time my engines stop instantly is when I have a small rock or piece of gravel stuck between the flywheel and the chassis. Check for obvious obstrutctions before you start ripping her apart. Doc Yup i think it was something jammed in there the outside of the clutch bell is all scratched and the noise has stopped, it may have been a small stone/stick or something that also jammed the flywheel. Yup they have 2 big cogs ill take some pics pics of 2 big cogs with cover off, can also see scratches on clutch bell http://www.users.on.net/~annecarl/IMG_3365.jpg pic of whole car http://www.users.on.net/~annecarl/IMG_3366.jpg > pics of 2 big cogs with cover off, can also see scratches on clutch > bell > http://www.users.on.net/~annecarl/IMG_3365.jpg > > pic of whole car > http://www.users.on.net/~annecarl/IMG_3366.jpg Nice lookin' truck there bud! It must have been a rock (stick would have just broken and not scratched the cb). I have that happen to my buggy and truggy quite frequently; it has never happened to the ol' ssavage as the engine just sits up too high. Doc Yup pulled it apart nothing appears to be broken inside the clutch bell i was expecting a 1 long spring around the clutch shoes but each shoe seems to have its own spring http://www.users.on.net/~annecarl/IMG_3367.jpg > Yup pulled it apart nothing appears to be broken inside the clutch bell > i was expecting a 1 long spring around the clutch shoes but each shoe > seems to have its own spring > > http://www.users.on.net/~annecarl/IMG_3367.jpg Yup, that's a much better setup than the one long spring thing. Alu shoes as stock on the LST2 I see - that's quite nice of them. SignatureDan - on his PC >> Yup pulled it apart nothing appears to be broken inside the clutch bell >> i was expecting a 1 long spring around the clutch shoes but each shoe [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Yup, that's a much better setup than the one long spring thing. Alu shoes > as stock on the LST2 I see - that's quite nice of them. That is nice! and necessary. The high revving Mach's are carbon clutch destroying machines! Doc |
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