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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / November 2006Bloody nitros and rotostarts
Well last night I tried again for the 2nd time to go out and test the idle in my Savage. Ever since I put the 1.1mm springs in there its had a hell high idle (which I couldn't lower with the idle screw), so stockers go back in there and now I cant get the bloody thing started. For 2 nights I've had (what I thought) we full batteries in the roto, both nights its had extreme trouble turning the motor over. I'm hoping its the batteries but if not, its buggered. Gives me a chance to try out the new rotostart 2 I've got. The first thing I noticed was HPI have changed the switch over on this one, bought bloody time cause the switch on a rotostart is a piece of sh.t (keeps stickin on due to shitty contact design). Second thing is its a much nicer unit, for starters you can stash the shaft on the bottom of it (which is half way there on the old one) and it has a bigger casing so its easier to grab. Plus the door at the back doesn't come off when you open it like the old one did. OTOH, I tuned out the K46 now that it has a Nova head on it, DAMN those heads cool. Previously I couldn't keep the temps below 140, it would get to 150 at the end of the tank. Now I have a stable 110degC *and* I have leaned the bugger out a HEAP, so now it screams! If I can get the idle sorted I'm done. Finally I took the Zilla out on the w/e. Put my 2 good packs in there (two 3300mah packs with matched cells) and gave it a big run, 25 minutes later it dumped on me so rapidly I allmost couldn't drive it back to where I was standing! When I pulled the batteries they were stinking hot, the motors and speedy were hot also, but fine. The batteries however got so hot, the bar at the end of the pack (opposite from the wires) had heated up so much, the plastic end cap now as a warped bit in the middle the size of the bar!!! Moral of the story, the Zilla can take bigger/better batteries :) Cheers Dre > Well last night I tried again for the 2nd time to go out and test the idle > in my Savage. Ever since I put the 1.1mm springs in there its had a hell [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > nights its had extreme trouble turning the motor over. I'm hoping its the > batteries but if not, its buggered. Seems very odd that a clutch would stop it starting... > Gives me a chance to try out the new rotostart 2 I've got. The first > thing I noticed was HPI have changed the switch over on this one, bought [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > leaned the bugger out a HEAP, so now it screams! If I can get the idle > sorted I'm done. Sweet :-) Sure it's not a lean low end now ? > Finally I took the Zilla out on the w/e. Put my 2 good packs in there > (two 3300mah packs with matched cells) and gave it a big run, 25 minutes [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Moral of the story, the Zilla can take bigger/better batteries :) Nah moral is leccy things are gay ;-)  SignatureDan Formerly DanTXD >> Well last night I tried again for the 2nd time to go out and test the >> idle in my Savage. Ever since I put the 1.1mm springs in there its had a [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Seems very odd that a clutch would stop it starting... Oh it doesn't, my bloody rotostart is stopping it from starting, hence the subject name :) >> Gives me a chance to try out the new rotostart 2 I've got. The first >> thing I noticed was HPI have changed the switch over on this one, bought [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Sweet :-) Sure it's not a lean low end now ? Nope, have been richening that up to compensate. Also just arrived is my new high perf air filter so will most likely need to richen even further. All batteries are charged, weather is looking good so tonight is a goer! >> Finally I took the Zilla out on the w/e. Put my 2 good packs in there >> (two 3300mah packs with matched cells) and gave it a big run, 25 minutes [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Nah moral is leccy things are gay ;-) ROFL! you have electric remotes and servos and stuff so ner :P Cheers Dre > Well last night I tried again for the 2nd time to go out and test the idle > in my Savage. Ever since I put the 1.1mm springs in there its had a hell [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Cheers Dre If idle screw won't lower idle: 1. Check to see that throttle linkage will allow carb to close past where it is right now. You might have to bump the horn down a tooth. 2. Richen the LSN. Clutch springs didn't have a thing to do with the idle my friend! Doc >> Well last night I tried again for the 2nd time to go out and test the >> idle in my Savage. Ever since I put the 1.1mm springs in there its had a [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > > Doc Yeah I know the springs shouldn't have anything to do with it, but its the only thing left that I changed last time I messed around with it. I can change springs easy as so it was only 20 minutes work to get the old ones in there. If it does exactly the same thing, the bigger ones go back in there, I just want to totally eliminate it. The thing is, I've tried all of that, and I can screw the idle down so the carb throat is shut completely. Stalls out just before. Tried richening the LSN, doesn't seem to change it. You know how a top fuel dragster sounds just before its about to launch? you get that sort of bounce off the revlimiter sort of sound, thats what it sounds like at idle and the clutch isn't engaged at this high idle either... Its a wierd one and the only issue with it atm... Cheers Dre > The thing is, I've tried all of that, and I can screw the idle down so the > carb throat is shut completely. Stalls out just before. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Cheers Dre If richening the LSN doesn't fix the problem, and closing the idle screw doesn't lower the idle, the only reasonable conclusion would be a small air leak somewhere. Is your carb and backplate siliconed to the motor? Doc >> The thing is, I've tried all of that, and I can screw the idle down so >> the carb throat is shut completely. Stalls out just before. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Doc I suppose it could be an air leak, buuuuuuuut, it wasn't there before I did the clutch springs :) Nope, haven't siliconed those bits (doens't the carb and backplate have an o-ring for that purpose?). Tonight I'm planning to see how it goes. I have a feeling its going to be the same so after that test, I'll pull the motor out again, silicon the backplate and carb base and change the springs back. I might try richening the LSN even more than I did last time and see. I'll need to do a bit of a tune anyway as it has its new air filter on it now. Cheers Dre >> If richening the LSN doesn't fix the problem, and closing the idle screw >> doesn't lower the idle, the only reasonable conclusion would be a small >> air leak somewhere. Is your carb and backplate siliconed to the motor? > I suppose it could be an air leak, buuuuuuuut, it wasn't there before I > did the clutch springs :) Coincidence! I replaced the intake manifold gaskets on my 1:1 SUV a few weeks back and immediately afterwards 2 of my parking lamps blew out. Would we conclude that the new gaskets caused the bulbs to blow? ;-) Hell, my 1:1 stuff is always doing dumb sh.t like that. Work on something underhood and two days later something in the a.s end goes out.........................work on something on the a.s end and three days later something underhood goes............... If it has tits or tires, it's gunna be trouble! Doc > >> If richening the LSN doesn't fix the problem, and closing the idle screw > >> doesn't lower the idle, the only reasonable conclusion would be a small [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Doc HAHAHA Sounds like my missus, she came home from work last week and says there is clunking noise coming from the back diff every time she goes around a corner and since I put a new diff lock in the rear end only a couple of months ago I was worried it might have sheared a axle. I did a oil change, the oil that came out was like new and no metal bits in the oil. She had reversed into the driveway so I didn't even look at the front of the 4x4 but when I eventually made it to the front, I find the front bumper bracket was SNAFU and it was the bumper hitting on the tyre every time she went around the corner not the rear diff at all. Cheers >>> If richening the LSN doesn't fix the problem, and closing the idle screw >>> doesn't lower the idle, the only reasonable conclusion would be a small [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > weeks back and immediately afterwards 2 of my parking lamps blew out. > Would we conclude that the new gaskets caused the bulbs to blow? ;-) LOL, I know, hence the smiley :) > Hell, my 1:1 stuff is always doing dumb sh.t like that. Work on something > underhood and two days later something in the a.s end goes [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Doc Totally, my daily runabout has been in a competition with me, can it break more than I can fix it, I'm only *just* winning :) Cheers Dre |
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