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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / November 2006soldering irons
want to know a good brand of cordless soldering iron. I've seen alot of gas ones used at my club. Don't know what makes a good one or a bad one. I've got small electric ones but i've been told i need a big one for soldering batteries together. Using a small one takes too long and you end up heating up the cells as well as the solder. 60-70watts required. Any thoughts guys? > want to know a good brand of cordless soldering iron. I've seen alot of gas > ones used at my club. Don't know what makes a good one or a bad one. I've > got small electric ones but i've been told i need a big one for soldering > batteries together. Using a small one takes too long and you end up heating > up the cells as well as the solder. 60-70watts required. Get a solder station where you can regulate the temperature. But for your purpose I'd recommend to get welded, shrunk-tube battery packs anyway. HTH Marc  SignatureSwitzerland/Europe <http://www.heusser.com> remove CHEERS and from MERCIAL to get valid e-mail : > want to know a good brand of cordless soldering iron. I've seen alot of gas : > ones used at my club. Don't know what makes a good one or a bad one. I've [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] : : Marc a normal stick pack battery has a nasty habit of falling out. Both my chassis are designed for racing cells with the compartment and clamp moulded that way. I am actually remaking the stick packs cos i don't believe individual cells needed to make your own pack are worth more than twice the price. > : > want to know a good brand of cordless soldering iron. I've seen alot > of [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > the > price. Well that totally depends on the cell your talking about. I'm quite happy to spend 120AUS on a set of loose cells *if* they are closely matched. Packs with matched cells SNOT on normal off the shelf packs. Plus when you make your own cells you can use really fat battery bars and thick wire which all help the performance of the pack. I pretty much dont buy premade packs anymore, I prefer to spend more on loose cells (matched of course :) and build my own (allthough I had to get some for the Zilla as it has moulded battery housings, the maxx has ladders). I have yet to find an off the shelf pre-made pack that can keep up! Cheers Dre : > a normal stick pack battery has a nasty habit of falling out. Both my : > chassis are designed for racing cells with the compartment and clamp [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] : : Cheers Dre like i said. an off the shelf premade pack is half the price. Then buy the bars and wire. Doing that at the moment. As for matched cells, they are only matched for one race. After that its down to the charger and your discharge equipment. The only one i know of is getting quite scarce and they take a bit o getting used to,they made two different models one with inbuilt batter and one with long good quality leads to be connected to a ca battery,made by scope industries wich i think is now defunct bu spares are available from witronics research p/l ps i still run min occaisonally they can do big boy jobs : -- olmo > : > a normal stick pack battery has a nasty habit of falling out. Both my > : > chassis are designed for racing cells with the compartment and clamp [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > only matched for one race. After that its down to the charger and your > discharge equipment. This isn't completely correct. Matched cells are matched cells no matter how many races you run. Normal packs can have one or 2 cells that aren't as good as the others. In these packs the whole pack is as good as their worse cell. Matched packs have cells with are individually matched to each other. This means the entire pack is made up of cells very close to each other, in other words, it makes the pack very very efficient (worst cell is very close to best cell performance). This is what gives them the edge, and the edge for much more than one race! Cheers Dre : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message : This isn't completely correct. Matched cells are matched cells no matter [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] : : Cheers Dre thanks mate. So basically the quality control is much better. I suppose with the right equipment you could match your own if you buy more than 2 sets of identical rating batteries. I've been very happy with the vapex tech. They usually last longer than the race, and i can't handle the car when its going full pelt anyway. Probably more of an issue for drivers running modifed and at the top level. > : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message > : This isn't completely correct. Matched cells are matched cells no [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > when its going full pelt anyway. Probably more of an issue for drivers > running modifed and at the top level. You could, but you would probably have to buy more than 2 packs to get enough cells to choose from, yes they are that different. I doubt you could get 6 cells closely matched cells out of 2 packs that are anywhere near as close as proper matched cells. You could buy 6 packs, split them all up and rebuild all the cells into 6 new packs and still not have as good a battery as a proper matched set. Cheers Dre : > : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message : > : This isn't completely correct. Matched cells are matched cells no [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] : : Cheers Dre hmm more of an issue when i get better and more competitive. my ezilla would probably liked matched packs too. Battery bars and better wire will help my stick packs. oh and swapping tamiya for deans connectors. > : > : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message > : > : This isn't completely correct. Matched cells are matched cells no [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] > would probably liked matched packs too. Battery bars and better wire will > help my stick packs. oh and swapping tamiya for deans connectors. Yep totally agree, wider/thicker battery bars (the ones I use are 1mm thick!), thicker wire (Deans wet noodle for example) and Deans plugs also give great improvements and I dont run anything less :) Those big electric trucks (E-zilla and E-maxx) like the biggest baddest packs you can throw at them :) The first thing I did when I got my Zilla (before I even drove it in fact) was to change the bullet plugs on the motors and the tamiya plugs on the batteries over to Deans. Oh and to give you an idea what I run in mine, the Zilla gets 3300mah matched packs. Of these I have 2 *labelled* pairs, 1 and 2 run together, 3 and 4 run together, if I run either odd numbers or even numbers I notice a big drop in runtime and initial punch, 1 and 2 are the better packs and all 4 use matched cells! The Maxx has 3000mah matched packs, same deal with the numbering and same deal with the performance. Thats the kind of variance you get and I use expensive matched cells! Cheers Dre : > hmm more of an issue when i get better and more competitive. my ezilla : > would probably liked matched packs too. Battery bars and better wire will [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] : : Cheers Dre yikes. I do 1/10 touring seriously but only pratt about with my zilla. Do you monster truck race or something? > : > hmm more of an issue when i get better and more competitive. my > ezilla [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > Do > you monster truck race or something? Nope, I wish there were truck races around here (Tassie). If there were I'd be there in a second :) I used to race 1/10 scale touring nitro and electric, I guess somethings dont rub off :) I just bash around, but I love fiddling around with them and I've been involved with batteries for a long time. I hate seeing big ineffiencies in those trucks like the battery and motor plugs and like to fix. Every single time I see an improvement and that makes it all worthwhile. Half the fun for me is driving, the other half is pulling things apart and either repairing or upgrading, hehehehe Cheers Dre :: > : Cheers Dre : > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] : : Cheers Dre I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use something that looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke doesn't even do that but simply solders his batteries directly to the car every race. > :: > : Cheers Dre > : > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke doesn't even do > that but simply solders his batteries directly to the car every race. Are the Corellis those tube style plugs?? I've allways used Deans ultras when I was at the club, but a lot of people used those Corellis plugs too. I remember one guy wouldn't move from them, and after every single race (if he finished), he would get the car back only to find that the end connected to the wire would work its way out and allmost come out! Because of that reason I stuck with Deans and have never looked back... LOL at the dude who soldered his batts :) Cheers Dre : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use something that : > looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke doesn't even do [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] : : Cheers Dre The attitude of the club was that correllis (yes the tube things) were superior to deans. Deans were for novices. I've also attempted my first bit of soldering. I had to get my dad to help cos i need at least 3 hands. 1 hold iron, 2 hold dean connector, 3 hold wire to connector 4th hand feed solder. I 'tinned' the wire and the connector but when it comes to holding one to the other i tried the push down hard with iron approach. revolting result but quite firm. Dad tried and it is the light press the wire to the connector (which i hold) then when one face of each has a dry joint then push iron between too and get me to push solder in. 1 hour later, 2 deans connector finally soldered. after unsoldering to slip on heat shrink wrap of course :) Considering how rough the connection probably is the factory fitted tamiya connection probably does a better job at the moment. > : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use something > that [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > rough the connection probably is the factory fitted tamiya connection > probably does a better job at the moment. Same at my club, but in my case I couldn't find any noticable improvement. There was however between Tamyia and Deans. Deans can take a bit of practise to get right, but once you get the hang of it its easy. I have no problem soldering up a pair of Deans plugs in a couple of minutes, but then I have done an absolute bucket load of soldering over the years :) First off you have to use a big tip in the iron, second you have to have a hot iron and one that doesn't cool down when you do big solder work. I tin the wire so that you cannot see any strands left, then tin the contact on the plug. Then put a nice blob of solder on the tip. I then put the wire onto the contact, then push it all together with the tip of the iron. You hold the iron on as long as it takes for the solder on the wire, the solder on the contact and the solder on the tip to all melt together and flow into all the gaps. Take heat away without disturbing the wire and hold until cool. Then put the heatshrink on. Cheers Dre : > : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use something : > that [quoted text clipped - 64 lines] : : Cheers Dre I pretty much do that but when i take the iron away the wire comes away too. somehow clamping the wire to the connector without getting in the way or heat-syncing away the heat is the tricky part. Someone has suggested binding the wire and connector with fine fuse wire. > : > : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use > something [quoted text clipped - 85 lines] > heat-syncing away the heat is the tricky part. Someone has suggested > binding the wire and connector with fine fuse wire. I hold it there with my fingers :) further down the wire of course, otherwise burnt fingers! 3 fingers and a thumb is needed! The only finger I dont use is my pinky :) Left hand second in little finger and thumb holds the plug, index and middle finger holds the wire. Right hand gets it easy and only has to hold the iron. Told ya I've had a lot of practise with these, LOL :) OTOH, if you can get something to clamp the plug, you can use your left hand to hold the wire, right hand to solder... Cheers Dre > > : > : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use > > something [quoted text clipped - 100 lines] > > Cheers Dre I just use a pair of vise grips or an adjustable wrench to simply hold the plug which leaves both hands free! Tin the wire end and make a bead on the deans ends,heat the under side of the Deans end (opposite the solder) and simply press the wire down until solder flows into a single bead from tinned wire end and prong bead. Very easy after you get used to it. Don't over do it with the solder and don't keep the plug too hot for too long of a time as you can melt the plastic and the prongs will shift. You can plug the Deans together about halfway to help with keeping prongs straight and dispersing a little heat. >> > : > : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use >> > something [quoted text clipped - 133 lines] > the prongs will shift. You can plug the Deans together about halfway to > help with keeping prongs straight and dispersing a little heat. Good points. I dont heat the underside though cause I dont like getting solder on those sides, prefer to keep them goldy coloured, LOL :) (yes I know, I'm a freak) Cheers Dre > > > : > : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use > > > something [quoted text clipped - 120 lines] > I just use a pair of vise grips or an adjustable wrench to simply hold the > plug which leaves both hands free! I made a soldering jig with some lead that I had sitting around that I make fishing weights out of and I simply drilled a hole in the lead and put a alligator clip in the hole. I use this for all my soldering jobs, it looks a bit dodgy but it does the job and you don't need a spare hand. Cheers : > > Cheers Dre : > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] : : Cheers All good tips. I'm off to maplins today to look for any useful bits and pieces. :: > > Cheers Dre :: > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] : All good tips. I'm off to maplins today to look for any useful bits and : pieces. The hottest mains power soldering iron is 50watts http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016&TabID=1&source=23&doy=9m11 > :: > > Cheers Dre > :: > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > The hottest mains power soldering iron is 50watts > http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016&TabID=1&source=23&doy=9m11 Umm, you can get hotter, I have an 80watt and my father has a 150watt! (complete with 1/2" tip!!) Cheers Dre : > :: > > Cheers Dre : > :: > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] : > : > The hottest mains power soldering iron is 50watts http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016&TabID=1&source=23&doy=9m11 : Umm, you can get hotter, I have an 80watt and my father has a 150watt! : (complete with 1/2" tip!!) : : Cheers Dre got an email from r brewster himself "the art of soldering by r brewster" http://www.brewstersbatteries.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=37 ... > : > The hottest mains power soldering iron is 50watts > : > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > got an email from r brewster himself "the art of soldering by r brewster" > http://www.brewstersbatteries.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=37 There are very nice solder stations with 72W, 6 seconds from cold to perfectly regulated 350°C (or any other temperature you might need): http://www.adola.com/products/loten/lotstation_rx802_as.html (This particular page is not in english unfortunately but you'll get the key points of the data - call them if interested (http://www.adola.com/e/contact/index.html). I use a more than 15y old predecessor of this one and it works really well. From comparing lead free solder this should be cheaper than the above company. HTH Marc SignatureSwitzerland/Europe <http://www.heusser.com> remove CHEERS and from MERCIAL to get valid e-mail > ... >> : > The hottest mains power soldering iron is 50watts [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > Marc SIX SECONDS!!!! damn I need a new soldering iron :) Thats very impressive though, allthough mine is hot within a minute so not too bad :) Cheers Dre "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> : > Switzerland/Europe : > <http://www.heusser.com> yikes another foreign site. Don't anybody in the uk do decent price stuff? : > remove CHEERS and from MERCIAL to get valid e-mail : [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] : : Cheers Dre doing even better. Found someone with several different sized soldering irons and more importantly knows how to use them. Just gonna keep him topped up with his favourite beer and leave my stuff over the weekend. :P > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> : > Switzerland/Europe > : > <http://www.heusser.com> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > irons and more importantly knows how to use them. Just gonna keep him > topped up with his favourite beer and leave my stuff over the weekend. :P ROFL, good work :) Plan with no drawbacks! Cheers Dre > LOL at the dude who soldered his batts :) > > Cheers Dre- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text - I'm thinking about going back to connectors for the battery, now that I'm more into the "hobby" aspect of this thing. But back in the day when I was racing Modified, I learned from the sponsored and factory drivers, "hard wire" everything. To let you know how long ago "back in the day" was, I just dug my Associated RC-10T, Kyosho Lazer ZX-R, and Associated-RPM "Team Car" conversion out of the moth balls. |
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