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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / January 2007



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4WD is NOT really 4WD, pls help

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MatthewJ - 19 Jan 2007 15:57 GMT
I noticed today that on my e-savage (HPI) that only 2 of the wheels
really turn (one in the front, one in the back. If i hold one the other
turns). So i find that i get stuck a lot because one wheel is turning
freely (ie. in mud or snow) while the other wheel is on solid ground and
not moving.

Can i fix this? Is there a way to have constant power to all 4 wheels ?

Thanks

-Matt
GTD - 19 Jan 2007 18:51 GMT
> I noticed today that on my e-savage (HPI) that only 2 of the wheels
> really turn (one in the front, one in the back. If i hold one the other
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> -Matt

Matt, , just like full-size cars and trucks, these models have
differentials in the front and rear. A diff works by allowing the left
and right wheels to turn at different speeds to help steering and
handling, however, when one wheel has no load on it, it spins freely,
with the wheel with greater traction getting no power at all. In these
models, the grease or oil in the differential can limit the
differential effect, putting more power to the non-slipping wheel. I'm
not sure which the esavage uses, but there are oils and greases of
varying thickness that allow you to fine-tune this. Do a search for
"esavage diggerential lubrication" and such to see what you can come up
with. Keep in mind that it is all a trade-off, the thicker the lube,
the more the left and right want to turn at the same speed, but it also
makes the ride pigish in the turns. I had a buggy with the thickest
diff lube in all three diffs (a buggy also has a center diff, doing the
same function, except dividing the power from front to back, while
trucks like your sav have a gearbox that makes both front and read
drivelines turn at the samespeed always), anyways, when you peg the
throttle on this buggy, it went totally out of control, because one
tire would get no traction, but the outhe got equal power and greater
traction, pushing the rear end around to one side. I'm sure there are
others here that can articulate this a bit better. . .
MatthewJ - 19 Jan 2007 18:54 GMT
i have 2 differentials,front and back. i'm going to thicken up the
grease in the front. But in the back i'm going to lock the differential.
I don't see a point to have one there. Let me know if i'm wrong.

Thanks

-Matt

>> I noticed today that on my e-savage (HPI) that only 2 of the wheels
>> really turn (one in the front, one in the back. If i hold one the other
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> traction, pushing the rear end around to one side. I'm sure there are
> others here that can articulate this a bit better. . .
GTD - 19 Jan 2007 19:02 GMT
> i have 2 differentials,front and back. i'm going to thicken up the
> grease in the front. But in the back i'm going to lock the differential.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> -Matt
IME, with the rear diff locked, it will try and go straight in turns
and the a.s-end will try and slide out to the outside. Also, when you
stab the throttle, if one rear tire gets greater traction than the
other, it will push the truck from side to side.
Doc - 20 Jan 2007 06:24 GMT
> i have 2 differentials,front and back. i'm going to thicken up the grease
> in the front. But in the back i'm going to lock the differential. I don't
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> -Matt

It all depends on what you're doing with the vehicle (what type of driving,
what surface, etc.).

Grease will not help at all; you need silicone diff. fluid.

Locking the rear will virtually kill your steering.

Start small and work yer' way up.  On MT's that do not have a center diff
(such as your e-savage), I have found that 10,000 wt in the front and 7,500
wt in the back is a perfect blend of traction and steering.  Rear is always
thinner than the front, so if the above combo don't work, try 15,000 wt up
front and 10,000 wt in the rear.  You can go all the way up to 300,000 wt
which virtually locks the diff if you need to, but start small and get
thicker if needed.

HTH,

Doc
 
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