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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / January 2007



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Air Bubble in fuel linke

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da_linuxguru - 23 Jan 2007 13:47 GMT
Hi Guys,

I have the below car: (Will buy kyosho once I am used to driving high
speed rc cars)
http://www.smartechracing.com/web_2006/product/cars/10343/main.php

After starting the car, in a few minutes...or sometimes in a few
seconds...the engine stops and I can see there are bubbles in the fuel
line.....

Cheers,
D
Doc - 24 Jan 2007 01:34 GMT
> Hi Guys,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Cheers,
> D

One of two things:

1) Small hole somewhere in the fuel tubing or fuel tank
2) Engine overheating and boiling fuel out of carb due to a lean tune

I'd wager it's number 2 due to the fact that the bubbling is accompanied by
the engine dying.  Richen up the LSN and HSN one full turn each and see if
it gets any better.

Doc
da_linuxguru - 24 Jan 2007 09:05 GMT
Hi,

Thanks for the reply...I really am new to this RC stuff and don' t
understand the terminology yet...what is LSM and HSM could you pls
elaborate...

Thanks,
D

> > Hi Guys,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> > Cheers,
> > DOne of two things:

> 1) Small hole somewhere in the fuel tubing or fuel tank
> 2) Engine overheating and boiling fuel out of carb due to a lean tune
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Doc
Rodolfo Barros - 24 Jan 2007 18:33 GMT
Hi there.
As Doc said, ot is probably a lean mixture, it happenned in my car. It comes
improperly adjusted from factory and you have to keep mixture way rich to
avoid over-heating the engine.
I'd advise you to get an onboard thermometer to keep an eye on runnig
temperature.

HSN (High Speed Needle) is the mais adjuster for the carb and is placed on
left side of engine, where the fuel hose attachs the carburator (part number
42 if you have the engine schematics).

LSN (Low Speed Needle) adjusts the mixture at low throtle use and is placed
in the arm that is activated by the servo (part 45 oh the same schematic).

To richen mixture you have to back out the adjuster (turning it
counter-clockwise) and to lean mixture you have to scren in the adjuster
(turning it clockwise). Usually this adjustments are made at 1/8 of turn at
a time.

If you do a search in this group and some 'net forums you can find a lot of
info about tuning your engine, as the included manuals are garbage.

By the way, prepare you to get a lot of spare parts, as these chinese
imitantions of an r/c car seem to desintegrate themselfes.

Hope it helps you out somehow.

Rodolfo Barros
louco_pt@hotmail.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "da_linuxguru" <dhavaljdesai@gmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.land
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 1:47 PM
Subject: Air Bubble in fuel linke

> Hi Guys,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Cheers,
> D

> Hi Guys,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Cheers,
> D
da_linuxguru - 25 Jan 2007 22:14 GMT
Hi,

Thanks for the detailed advise....I did a lot of reading online and now
I understand some of the technical terms too....
If an engine is properly tuned how long can it run for? I mean what is
the limit on the playtime? After running the car for over 5 minutes I
pinched the fuel line to stop...after that I noticed an air
bubble...and the car wouldn't start again...does this mean that th car
is still not tuned well or it means that I raced it for long enough to
heat the engine?

Kind Regards,
Dhaval

> Hi there.
> As Doc said, ot is probably a lean mixture, it happenned in my car. It comes
[quoted text clipped - 58 lines]
> > Cheers,
> > D- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -
Doc - 26 Jan 2007 03:27 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> Kind Regards,
> Dhaval

A well-tuned, quality-built engine will run forever without overheating as
long as you keep feeding it fuel.  I've run my Savage (powered by a Mach
.26) for as long as 2 hours without shutting it down.  The cheap engines
(like the one in your Smartech) will overheat if tuned "correctly"
performance-wise.  Like the other poster said, you have to run them rich and
slow to keep the motor temps under control; you will not get decent
performance out of your engine without overheating it.

Your engine wouldn't restart because the fuel was boiling out of the carb
before it could get sucked into the engine.  This is likely the same reason
it was dying after a few minutes of runtime.  The bubbles are the boiling
fuel.

Like I said, back the HSN and LSN (counterclockwise) 1 full turn each and
see how she does.  Also as the other poster suggested grab an on-board temp
gauge to help you out.  I use these ones:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGZK7&P=ML  Anything
between 200-300* F is ok.  Anything higher than that and you're asking for
trouble.

Doc
 
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