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Iridium - 09 Feb 2007 12:54 GMT Anyone used an RC recently? Any new pics? Any news? Anything else to report?
 Signature Dan
ian - 09 Feb 2007 14:11 GMT : Anyone used an RC recently? Any new pics? Any news? Anything else to : report? bought two carson electric rolling chassis. Trouble finding places that sell spares. Have sold one chassis. two people have asked me to keep the remaining one and sell it as spares. personally i'd rather race it myself and find a place in the uk or europe still selling bits. or perhaps other cars that parts will fit.
Doc - 09 Feb 2007 21:35 GMT > Anyone used an RC recently? Any new pics? Any news? Anything else to > report? Tooooo....................f**king.................cold! We've had record lows the past three weeks and it ain't supposed to warm up till March! It's been averaging -5F to -25F during the DAY with the wind chill factored in. Probably too cold for the little nitro mills, and definitely too cold for me!
Planning on grabbing an X-Ray NT18MT as soon as it warms up a bit and might unload the Kanai buggy towards a MP777 ST-R.
Brrrrrrr!
Doc
Averix - 09 Feb 2007 21:52 GMT The new Team Associate nitro buggy is comming out in March.
www.neo-buggy.com
Doc - 10 Feb 2007 16:49 GMT > The new Team Associate nitro buggy is comming out in March. > > www.neo-buggy.com I wouldn't drive an associated vehicle if it was given to me for free! Same goes for Team Losi. I've had bad experiences with both from both a reliability and customer service standpoint and refuse to give them any of my $$$.
Doc
Iridium - 10 Feb 2007 17:02 GMT >> The new Team Associate nitro buggy is comming out in March. >> [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > reliability and customer service standpoint and refuse to give them any of > my $$$. <has flashback of RC18MT>
Amen brother.
 Signature Dan
Justin Mahn - 12 Feb 2007 07:10 GMT >> The new Team Associate nitro buggy is comming out in March. >> [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Doc That's because AE and Losi make cars for racers, not bashers. The hell you put your Savage through would make most stadium racers puke their guts up.
 Signature Justin Mahn
*justinmahn on USEast SCL and USWest SCL
Averix - 12 Feb 2007 17:31 GMT Ha ha ha...
So if Team Associate and Losi are so bad, what is a good model for Electric Buggy?
Just getting back into the hobby/sport.
Thought I would start simple before I get my X-ray.
Thanks for the help.
Snowing here too.
Justin Mahn - 12 Feb 2007 22:36 GMT > Ha ha ha... > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Snowing here too. There's nothing wrong with AE or Losi buggies if you plan on racing them. Duratrax also makes a buggy that isn't too too bad. Traxxas makes a heavier buggy, and to get any stronger you have to move away from the buggy class. The reason AE and Losi are winning so many sponsored events (ie nearly all of them) is (1) because they are the most popular, and (2) because they are made lighter for more speed on the track. If you want to bash, I'd suggest going with a stadium truck, or even better, a 4wd monster truck.
 Signature Justin Mahn
*justinmahn on USEast SCL and USWest SCL
Doc - 13 Feb 2007 04:20 GMT > Ha ha ha... > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Snowing here too. Will you be running on a groomed dirt track or another type of surface? If other, skip the buggy and follow Justin's advice and grab a stadium or monster truck. Buggies shine in dirt and pretty much stink on anything else IMO, so unless you have a nice dirt area you can run in get something suited to your surface.
Doc
Doc - 13 Feb 2007 04:14 GMT > That's because AE and Losi make cars for racers, not bashers. The hell > you put your Savage through would make most stadium racers puke their guts > up. Justin,
You must not be a racer? Racing is harder on stuff than bashing! FWIW, my purebred racer (Kyosho Kanai III) is the toughest of them all, Savage included. It is IMO indestructible.
Doc
Justin Mahn - 13 Feb 2007 04:44 GMT >> That's because AE and Losi make cars for racers, not bashers. The hell >> you put your Savage through would make most stadium racers puke their guts [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Doc No, I race and bash. No offense, intended, but what chassis WOULD you suggest for 2wd lectric buggy? AE and Losi are quite strong enough for their intended purpose.
I think we got confused somewhere along the line. I've seen mention of a 1/8 buggy, an 1/18 MT (My 7yo loves his btw), electric offroad, and whatever else I missed. Averix, I think you should decide exactly WHAT you're going to race or bash before you decide on a purchase. Jumping around between the classes only leads to a huge, expensive stable of vehicle that you never really learn to drive. If you intend to race AND bash, then yes, go with Stadium truck or 4wd Monster.
 Signature Justin Mahn
*justinmahn on USEast SCL and USWest SCL
Averix - 13 Feb 2007 14:30 GMT I see.
I have the old AE stadium truck back in 2000. That was about the last time I had. I used it for bashing, but now, I want to race them. So I was thinking of starting out in electric to get the feel back before I move into gass buggy. I am more for the buggy since I have a turck. Then again I could be persauded to race truck again. It would really depend on how big the field is for either one.
Trucks tend to be more stable, correct?
Justin Mahn - 13 Feb 2007 22:21 GMT > I see. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Trucks tend to be more stable, correct? The stadium truck in 2000 was the T3, I think. There would certainly be no harm in throwing a few new parts on it, and brushing up your track skills with it.
As for stability, the e-truck and a Gas buggy are so far apart on a dedicated race track, that you can really only say they both have 4 wheels.
e-truck: 2wd, harder to corner (spinouts), smaller jumps, and as doc said, breaks easier, but also easier to maintain and clean
g-buggy: 4wd, more setup to fiddle with, MUCH bigger jumps, explosive acceleration, much more expensive, and requires nitro tuning.
Another option you might consider: 1/8 gas truck, or truggy, has the same advantage of e-truck over e-buggy. More stable, slightly slower, and at this point, a slight bit more popular, and not much more expensive. I'm not talking about high center monster trucks like the Savage. These are derived from 1/8 buggy chassis, and given stadium truck geometry. If you've been out of it since 2000, you've missed a whole revolution. 8)
 Signature Justin Mahn
*justinmahn on USEast SCL and USWest SCL
Averix - 14 Feb 2007 16:12 GMT Finally someone has explained to me what the heck a truggy is. Thank you so much. Everytime I ask, I get flamed.
I think I might have to check and see what truck I have, I don't think it was a T3, I want to say it was a T2 even. That then puts me back farther then I thought. Wow, I am old school. Now that I think about it, it was a T2.
Any ways, I was thinking it would be a great way for me to start over was to rebuild it, but like all things from the past, I can't find half the stuff I had for it. I was thinking it would be a bit easier for me to start over and to really learn how to build. I had someone build the turck for me, when I was younger.
All the help has been great, I think I will start with truck and then work my way up from there.
I did notice that mini are comming on strong, but there seems to be a huge differance in what is classified as a mini. 1/18 to 1/24th scale, not so cut and dry really.
I think tonight I will be heading down to my local shop just to check it out.
And if a revolution has taken place, man do I have a lot to learn again. When I started, batteries were simple looking things, now we have the whole NiCad (SP?) and chargers are different. No longer need the car battery to charge.
I think I should start a new topic saying...Please help, completly lost and would love all and any kind of information about the sport/ hobbie.
Justin Mahn - 15 Feb 2007 12:11 GMT > Finally someone has explained to me what the heck a truggy is. Thank > you so much. Everytime I ask, I get flamed. Not a problem. :D
> I think I might have to check and see what truck I have, I don't think > it was a T3, I want to say it was a T2 even. That then puts me back [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > for me to start over and to really learn how to build. I had someone > build the turck for me, when I was younger. If you could restore the Gold Tub Chassis T2, you'd have a nice piece to put on the shelf, or display at the local hobby shop, though.
> All the help has been great, I think I will start with truck and then > work my way up from there. I have no problem recomending AE RC10T4 at all. Parts are cheaper than the Losi, and more available than HPI. If you're worried about breakages, then go with Traxxas Rustler, but it'll be a cow next to the AE.
> I did notice that mini are comming on strong, but there seems to be a > huge differance in what is classified as a mini. 1/18 to 1/24th > scale, not so cut and dry really. Mini's really shine indoors, whether carpet, paved, or dirt. Outside, they tend to be dwarfed by the pebbles and ruts left by the larger vehicles. Even 1/10 scale trucks look like the Junior league on a full blown 1/8 scale outdoor track. Mini's also don't have the tolerances and quality you're used to from the T2, because, dangit, they're just too small to make quality parts for cheaply.
> I think tonight I will be heading down to my local shop just to check > it out. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > have the whole NiCad (SP?) and chargers are different. No longer need > the car battery to charge. Bear in mind that my advice is biased towards Racing 80%/Bashing 20%. You still haven't said clearly whether you wanted to primarily race or bash. My best piece of advice that I could possibly give you in regards to racing is to visit the track you plan to frequent on a race day BEFORE you make a purchase, or at least talk to some of the regulars from your track. I would hate to think you bought a vehicle that no one else races, because it's popular in MY neck of the woods.
> I think I should start a new topic saying...Please help, completly > lost and would love all and any kind of information about the sport/ > hobbie.
 Signature Justin Mahn
*justinmahn on USEast SCL and USWest SCL
Doc - 14 Feb 2007 05:16 GMT > No, I race and bash. No offense, intended, but what chassis WOULD you > suggest for 2wd lectric buggy? AE and Losi are quite strong enough for [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > vehicle that you never really learn to drive. If you intend to race AND > bash, then yes, go with Stadium truck or 4wd Monster. My comment towards AE and Losi was in regard to their nitro vehicles, as this is what the OP originally mentioned. AE and Losi both make nitro vehix intended for bashers and also vehix intended for racers, all of which are grenades waiting to explode IMHO.
With regard to anything electric, I cannot say. I don't run em' hence have no experience with them. Perhaps AE and Losi make great 2WD electric buggies; when you weigh 4 lbs and yer' only going 25mph it's kinda hard to break stuff anyways. ;-)
"We" got confused when "you" assumed the response I made about the upcoming AE nitro buggy release carried over to their electric stuff as well.
GOYMFHHYGDAHALTR
Doc
Justin Mahn - 15 Feb 2007 12:27 GMT >> No, I race and bash. No offense, intended, but what chassis WOULD you >> suggest for 2wd lectric buggy? AE and Losi are quite strong enough for [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > intended for bashers and also vehix intended for racers, all of which are > grenades waiting to explode IMHO. I was mainly thinking of my beloved RC10GT, and RC10T3 pair, so Nitro vs. Electric really didn't come into my head. They're certainly not as durable as a Savage or any other 1/8 vehicle, though, I'll readily admit.
> With regard to anything electric, I cannot say. I don't run em' hence have > no experience with them. Perhaps AE and Losi make great 2WD electric [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > "We" got confused when "you" assumed the response I made about the upcoming > AE nitro buggy release carried over to their electric stuff as well. As AE has never made an 1/8 scale buggy, you must be basing your opinion solely on the MonsterGT (admittedly not their best effort) and 1/10 scale vehicles. That's not entirely fair, considering the durability of the HPI Rush vs. the Savage, now is it? :D
I think the RC8 is going to be an awsome chassis, because of AE's competitiveness in racing.
> GOYMFHHYGDAHALTR > > Doc
 Signature Justin Mahn
*justinmahn on USEast SCL and USWest SCL
Averix - 15 Feb 2007 18:15 GMT AE just made their version of the buggy, I have only seen the pictures.
Anyways, to answer Justion's question.
I would like to race. I am new to area and would love to start racing again and meet people from the track. So that's kind of way I am staying away from bashing. If I want to bash, I ussally pull out my mini.
Thanks again for the help.
I think I might get myself the truck. Now if you have a chance to explain the whole burshless and then radio systems that would be greatly appericated too.
Is there a dummies guide this stuff?
Justin Mahn - 16 Feb 2007 12:05 GMT > AE just made their version of the buggy, I have only seen the > pictures. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Is there a dummies guide this stuff? Well then. we have a good direction to take this. :D
I'd suggest the spectrum radio system, or at least any brand of synthesized, selectable fm channel radio. They all work the same way they did in 2000, your memories from the T2 should serve you well if you had an ESC.
I prefer Novak brushless, mostly because I have one. They come in various power bands. You should know that any brushless you install will put you in the unlimited modified class of racers, and you'll be racing against the very top class at your track. They'll have the uberest equipment, and Lipo batteries that make their cars go twice as long as any nicd or nimh, and a little faster, too.
Just don't forget to pay attention to your tires. Hardpacked tracks favor tires like the Pro-Line Square Fuzzy T, whereas wet or loose tracks will favor the Step Pin. In both cases you'll want the softest rear tire compounds that you can afford. By this, I mean that the softest compound tires will wear out faster, but have much better traction. Fronts almost always use Pro-Line Edge type tires.
And last but not least, the very first driving lesson is not how to jump far. It's not how to pass. It's not how to hack your opponents and get away with it, although you may feel that way after watching the fast guys. The very first driving lesson is how to get around the track and not crash. Not even once. Not even a little one. Make this your goal every day, and you will become one of the fast guys much quicker.
 Signature Justin Mahn
*justinmahn on USEast SCL and USWest SCL
Averix - 16 Feb 2007 14:44 GMT I like this mentality. Either go big or go home. What are some of the other classes? Is going brushless with all the uber tech really the right way for me to go, especially right out of the gate? Or would it make more sense to learn slowly and then build my way up?
Then again, when I did play paintball, I did just all the nice stuff so I knew it wasn't my equipment, it was me that sucked. You might have a really valid point to this. I accept this idea.
Tires and weights of oils must just come with more testing and driving or simply learning how drive. I am thinking I should really just get down to my hobby shop and pick up the stadium truck.
Thanks for the help guys.
GTD - 14 Feb 2007 06:04 GMT >> The new Team Associate nitro buggy is comming out in March. >> [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >Doc I have an MGT, and I must say I've had to replace more than one part. I know much of it was my crappy driving, but I've driven my kid's revo, my Hyper7, and my kid's Ultra mbx (BTW, know a good place to get a body for that?) JUST as crappy, and not broken anything on any of them (except a burned up servo on the revo and a trashed engine on the same, due to basic stupidity). I'm thinking about selling the MGT as a roller and replacing it with a (gasp) savage, partially bacause I want to try out the 3-speed tranny.
Doc - 14 Feb 2007 15:53 GMT > I have an MGT, and I must say I've had to replace more than one part. > I know much of it was my crappy driving, but I've driven my kid's [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > roller and replacing it with a (gasp) savage, partially bacause I want > to try out the 3-speed tranny. The MGT 4.60 SE is a piece of junk IMO. Have you had any issues with the drive pins (in the CDV's and transmission) shearing off? My bud's MGT was a nightmare. First he had two CVD pins shear off which was a minor inconvenience, then he had two go in the tranny which cooked 1st and 2nd gear plus reverse as it let everything just kinda bump around in there. After he got it all put back together, the 2-speed clutch wasn't working as the engagement pawl had worn down to a nub. This in addition to the various broken parts caused from what I would consider minor crashes. If it performed like a SOB I could overlook some of the reliability issues, but it always was a bit of a pig compared to the other MT's it ran with. Associated's response to the sheared pins and worn 2-speed, all within under a gallon of fuel was "tough sh.t."
He sold the MGT as a roller, complete minus tires, electronics, and engine (with the cooked 2 speed) for $119.99 on e-bay. He got $25.99 for the wheels and tires, $59.99 for the engine and $31.00 for the electronics. Total of $236.97.
If you're looking to go Savage, here's what I recommend to build the most kick-assest truck on a budget:
1) Grab a roller on the bay! ($100-$150-ish) 2) Three speed ($50) 3) Dirt Bonz tires w/ standard offset wheels ($50) 4) Mach .26 or Mach 427 with 16/49 gearing ($100) 5) HPI polished pipe ($25) 6) Motor Saver air filter ($10) 7) HPI wheelie bar (REQUIRED) ($15) 8) Hitec 645MG on steering, standard on throttle/brake ($35)
This combo is guaranteed to put a smile on yer face! Guaranteed to powerwheelie into 3rd gear at 40+ mph. I have mine built this way (along with a ton of aluminum bits) and it's an absolute animal. Yes, the total price adds up to around that of a new X RTR, but this thing will absolutely anihilate out-of-the-box RTR Savages, even the X SS.
Doc
GTD - 14 Feb 2007 19:46 GMT >The MGT 4.60 SE is a piece of junk IMO. Have you had any issues with the >drive pins (in the CDV's and transmission) shearing off? No, not even with an RB TM728 engine. Have had some pins fall out, , but no shearing.
>My bud's MGT was a >nightmare. First he had two CVD pins shear off which was a minor [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >wheels and tires, $59.99 for the engine and $31.00 for the electronics. >Total of $236.97. I'll probably sell mine as a roller, with the original tires (keep my upgraded ones)
>If you're looking to go Savage, here's what I recommend to build the most >kick-assest truck on a budget: [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >7) HPI wheelie bar (REQUIRED) ($15) >8) Hitec 645MG on steering, standard on throttle/brake ($35) Already have that in the MGT, I'll probably take it out and put the stock servo back in. I also already have a TM728 from the MGT that I will keep for the Sav. I also have a novarossi .28 as a spare, , and I'll keep the original MGT motor, since it's in my kid's Ofna Mbx ultra.
>This combo is guaranteed to put a smile on yer face! Guaranteed to >powerwheelie into 3rd gear at 40+ mph. I have mine built this way (along [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >Doc GTD - 19 Feb 2007 18:06 GMT >1) Grab a roller on the bay! ($100-$150-ish) >2) Three speed ($50) [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >7) HPI wheelie bar (REQUIRED) ($15) >8) Hitec 645MG on steering, standard on throttle/brake ($35) Anything I should know about the Savage's motor mount? Seems some are having trouble fitting some engines bue to the monoblock design of the mount. ..
Doc - 19 Feb 2007 20:55 GMT >>1) Grab a roller on the bay! ($100-$150-ish) >>2) Three speed ($50) [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > having trouble fitting some engines bue to the monoblock design of the > mount. .. It'll work with any standard-sized big block engine. Some motors with larger backplates (such as the SWK .26 I have in it now) limits how big a cb you can throw on it, but other than that I haven't heard or read about any problems. Someone makes a 2-piece mount for the Savage (I've seen it somewhere!) if the stock mount doesn't cooperate for some reason.
Doc
GTD - 10 Feb 2007 05:16 GMT >Anyone used an RC recently? Any new pics? Any news? Anything else to >report? Not much driving, was too cold, , ,then too much snow (4 days in a row with 12+ inches), then it got warm and sloppy for the last couple weeks. Still too cold to break in the new engine, , ,picked up an RB concepts TM323, with header, pipe, and engine mount for a T-Maxx, new in box for cheap . Been spending the last couple weeks getting it fit into a Hyper 7, largely because people say it can't be done :). My kid has the same engine in his Revo and it just throws the truck around. Wheelies at 1/2 throttle with +1 tooth over stock CB. Can't wait to see it rip. . .
Doc - 10 Feb 2007 16:50 GMT >>Anyone used an RC recently? Any new pics? Any news? Anything else to >>report? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Wheelies at 1/2 throttle with +1 tooth over stock CB. Can't wait to > see it rip. . . Nay to the naysayers! Think of the weight savings using the TM323 instead of running a big-block!
Doc
GTD - 10 Feb 2007 23:32 GMT >>>Anyone used an RC recently? Any new pics? Any news? Anything else to >>>report? [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > >Doc All I need now is some cooperative weather, , got her all hooked up :)
Doc - 11 Feb 2007 04:38 GMT >>Nay to the naysayers! Think of the weight savings using the TM323 instead >>of running a big-block! >> >>Doc >> > All I need now is some cooperative weather, , got her all hooked up :) Any pics? Curious to see how you did it!
Doc
GTD - 11 Feb 2007 17:07 GMT >>>Nay to the naysayers! Think of the weight savings using the TM323 instead >>>of running a big-block! [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >Doc Soon. It's ugly and unpolished in places, , but overall it's not bad. Basically I made a new plate out of 1/4" aluminum for the tmaxx motor mount to bolt to, and that bolts to the chassis. I also had to raise the center diff up about 1/4" and lean it slightly away from the engine, which also required notching the servo mounting plate for the new location of the diff/spurr gear. I rasied the throttle/brake servo up 1/4" also, as well as some major linkage tweaking on the throttle side. Once I cut the tmaxx header off right in the middle, and re-coupled it with a silicone connector, I was able to adjust the exhaust to something relatively acceptable. The revo pipe would work better, but the revo motor mount would be almost impossible to use.
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