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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / March 2007Engine break-in questions. .
I have an RB TM323 that needs broke in. How warm deos it need to be outside for a proper break-in? Thanks. > I have an RB TM323 that needs broke in. How warm deos it need to be > outside for a proper break-in? Thanks. Don't know for sure, but I'd do mine with at least 50 degrees farenheit.  SignatureJustin Mahn *justinmahn on USEast SCL and USWest SCL > > I have an RB TM323 that needs broke in. How warm deos it need to be > > outside for a proper break-in? Thanks. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > *justinmahn on USEast SCL and USWest SCL bummer, that's a few months away here. . . . >I have an RB TM323 that needs broke in. How warm deos it need to be > outside for a proper break-in? Thanks. Outside temperature isn't as important as engine temperature. The engine will not break-in properly unless you can get the temps up in the low 200's for the break-in tanks. This could be accomplished in colder weather by restricting airflow to the cooling head (tinfoil works great, so do old socks). Temp must be watched carefully when doing this as you don't want to over-restrict the airflow and cook yer' new mill! Doc >>I have an RB TM323 that needs broke in. How warm deos it need to be >> outside for a proper break-in? Thanks. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >Doc So what you're saying is that you wouldn't worry about the cold air INSIDE the engine, as long as the block/sleeve/piston get up to temp? It's above freezing here, , but not much. Add to that the fact that I am right at (within 60 feet) of sea-level (I've always opend the HSN a quarter turn on new engines and it seems to make run-in go exactly by the book). I also thought about arranging my heat gun so it (from a distance) blows warmish air toward the engine, to negate the cold air, , but was concerned about the heating of the air altering the oxygen or something dumb like that. . Either way, I want to get this thing ripping. . . Thanks all. . > So what you're saying is that you wouldn't worry about the cold air > INSIDE the engine, as long as the block/sleeve/piston get up to temp? [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Either way, I want to get this thing ripping. . . > Thanks all. That's exactly what I'm saying. As long as the internal pieces parts get up-to-temp and have a chance to heat-cycle between tanks it should break-in fine. This is much easier to accomplish in warmer weather, but if yer' itchin' to get it running and don't mind spending the extra time it can be done. For cold weather break-ins I've done in the past, I've used a blowdryer to get the head temps up in the low 100's before I even attempt starting it. Once it's started, I let it idle as long as it takes to get the temps up in the 180-200's, refill the tank and THEN "begin" the break-in tank on the ground. This method uses twice the fuel of a warm-weather break-in but makes sure the engine is nice and warm before it's actually taken off the bench and driven. HTH, Doc >> So what you're saying is that you wouldn't worry about the cold air >> INSIDE the engine, as long as the block/sleeve/piston get up to temp? [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > >Doc Cool. Today I ran the first three tanks of teh break-in through it. I warmed it up to 160 or so before starting it. Took only a few minutes to get it to 180-190. It's gotten as high as 210, still blubbering rich. I'll run another through it super fat, then another three leaning it a little more each tank. I can tell this motor really wants to scream. Thanks. > For cold weather break-ins I've done in the past, I've used a blowdryer to > get the head temps up in the low 100's before I even attempt starting it. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Doc I actually take it a step further using a heat gun getting the head to around 180 or so. Starts with a single blip of the EZ Start when it's that warm. And only takes 4-5 minutes max with a heat gun. Brokein two 3.3 Traxxas motors on the same day doing this. Heat cycle method. It was about 45f out. Heated up to around 180.. ran them for 3-4 minutes (fairly hard) and let them cool to about 70. Then repeated 5,6 times, then ran em longer after that for eacy cycle (maybe 6-8 minutes). Never letting head temps go above 230. A sock was required at first on the head... later, just the body. So far they're both just rip snortin machines. :) Even in sub zero temps. I come from the Northwest Territories and have broken in a dozen or so engines of different sizes and under the extreme temps experienced by us folks up here. I have to say that all engines are running great. For cold/ winter running I use aluminium tape... it's pretty thick stuff and retains heat well. The engines are strong at any temp I run them keeping in mind the time needed to tune properly for the temps I'm running in. Running after -10c is my thresh hold to run them. I do have a concern where summer time broke in engines, then run in the winter will become winter engines. I have not had the guts to run any of my high end engines in below 0c temps and there hasn't been any snow on the ground at that time either. If there is any truth to this phenomenom, if the guru's out there in this group could provide a pointed direction I' sure it will be appreciated. MC > I come from the Northwest Territories and have broken in a dozen or so > engines of different sizes and under the extreme temps experienced by us [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > MC I'm sure there's some truth to it... winter engines if not watched closely won't run as hot, cause more wear. Then in summer when it's hotter if you run hotter, P/S dont' fit as tight and runs worse. My idea for this is no biggie. Always have 2 motors. The old one run all winter, and if it's junk in the summer, swap it for a new engine. Then in winter, but the old one back on. :) |
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