ezilla to accept ladder packs

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ian - 19 Jun 2007 11:34 GMT

anyone know whats involved in the conversion?

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Dre - 20 Jun 2007 00:11 GMT

> anyone know whats involved in the conversion?

Do you want to convert your existing one or are you telling us there is a
conversion kit???

If your wanting to convert yours, good luck, I've looked into doing it and
it would require MAJOR mods to the chassis, the gearbox cover/brace and the
covers that hold the batteries in.

In the end I just got some real nice big capacity stick packs and left the
ladders with my e-maxx...

Cheers Dre

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ian - 20 Jun 2007 18:16 GMT

: > anyone know whats involved in the conversion?
:
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
:
: Cheers Dre

oh bum. At first it i bought some male corallis. Then i realised it would
take more than that. One model shop suggested removing the plastic battery
housings and replacing with straps. Though i noticed as most of the chassis
in that area is metal the packs may short out if not very careful. As a
touring racer i have 6 sets of ladder packs. Also two cells burst in my
stick packs so i broke it down and replaced the cells and reassembled as
ladder packs.(vapex 4300). So now i have two 2000mah stick packs and 1 4300
stick pack and the rest are ladders. My xxxt conversion was straight
forward. As my coralli tubes are mounted onto the side of my packs so that
they fit onto my highwalled tub chassis they slotted straight into the xt.

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Richard - 20 Jun 2007 19:31 GMT

> : > anyone know whats involved in the conversion?
> :
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> forward. As my coralli tubes are mounted onto the side of my packs so that
> they fit onto my highwalled tub chassis they slotted straight into the xt.

http://e-savage.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=355&limit=recent

Above is what I was planning on doing to my Savage when my motor and esc
finally arrive. I'm going to make my own because I want to be able to use
various pack configurations.

Also check out this Emaxx, well almost a Emaxx. I think the only thing left
on it that is Traxxas is the diff gears. He's one of the guys from our track
and the roller (no electronics) cost him $1200 used.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMZeTJFA2f4

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Dre - 21 Jun 2007 00:21 GMT

>> : > anyone know whats involved in the conversion?
>> :
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
> and the roller (no electronics) cost him $1200 used.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMZeTJFA2f4

Not a bad idea, but still, I'd prefer to stay with stick packs, they sit
lower and closer to the bottom center of the truck, giving it a better
center of gravity. My 2 pairs of matched 3300mah batteries give me close to
30 minutes runtime and thats not just bashing around, thats flogging it
everywhere...

That dude is a bit paranoid about heat, LOL! Fans everywhere!

Cheers Dre

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Richard - 21 Jun 2007 01:52 GMT

> >> : > anyone know whats involved in the conversion?
> >> :
[quoted text clipped - 53 lines]
>
> Cheers Dre

I've got to run mine that way since I'm converting my nitro savage to
electric, plus I'm retaining the 2 speed and I think I'm going to be
worrying about the heat in my packs. I also have 6 pairs of match 3800 & 2 x
matched 4200 ladder packs and I'll eventually want to chuck a couple of
11.1v Lipo's in there some where.

I recon if that guy moved his esc to the front of the chassis, he would
loose about 30cm of wire and gain a lot of power and probably wouldn't have
to worry so much about the heat.

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Dre - 21 Jun 2007 02:22 GMT

>> >> : > anyone know whats involved in the conversion?
>> >> :
[quoted text clipped - 76 lines]
> have
> to worry so much about the heat.

Ahhhh, yeah a nitro savage to electric is another story :) You going to run
a second servo for the mechanical brakes?

Re the e-zilla wires, I really doubt you would gain *any* power advantage by
shortening those power wires. They are plenty big enough (IMO). If there
were a gain, it would be very minimal and I'm certain you wouldn't notice it
when driving the thing.

I personally dont worry about the heat at all, but I do leave the truck for
at least 5 minutes between runs as I drive my other cars then. In the
summer, the batteries, motors and ESC get *stinking* hot, but I've never had
a problem with them...

My e-maxx is the same, its allways gotten really hot (esc, motors,
batteries) and I've been using it like that for years, no problems.
Allthough, the motors are starting to get noisey and tired, but hey, thats
fair enough considering the treatment they have been given, time for some
BIGGER BETTER ones :)

Cheers Dre

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Richard - 21 Jun 2007 10:50 GMT

> >> >> : > anyone know whats involved in the conversion?
> >> >> :
[quoted text clipped - 79 lines]
> Ahhhh, yeah a nitro savage to electric is another story :) You going to run
> a second servo for the mechanical brakes?

Yep, third channel mixing via the JR XS3 radio.

> Re the e-zilla wires, I really doubt you would gain *any* power advantage by
> shortening those power wires. They are plenty big enough (IMO). If there
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Cheers Dre

We noticed a huge difference in the Emaxx by moving the ESC to the front
where the receiver was and running 2" long wires to the motor, I also
replaced the motor and battery wires. Much cooler running and tons more
power and longer run time. We also did the single speed conversion and got a
decent set of Bowties for it. Unfortunately I did everything at the same
time so I don't no which mod made the biggest difference.

If this motor/esc combo works out for the Savage I will be buying another
one the Tmaxx and we'll offload the Emaxx. Specially since I only paid $200
(AUD) for the motor and esc.

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Dre - 22 Jun 2007 00:38 GMT

>> >> >> : > anyone know whats involved in the conversion?
>> >> >> :
[quoted text clipped - 139 lines]
> $200
> (AUD) for the motor and esc.

With all due respect, I find that what you are saying about shortening the
wires and getting more runtime and more power to be absolute crap. If
anything you would get more runtime by making the wires *longer* as their
internal resistance rises but its certainly nothing you could measure
without instruments, definately not just by driving the thing.

The only gain you are getting is potentially better cooling as the esc is at
the front, not the back, but as far as electrical performance, the length of
these wires is completely irrelevant, they simply aren't thin enough to make
a difference.

Your improvments came from the fact that you removed rotating mass from the
gearbox by making it a single speed *and* you lost weight in the tires also
removing rotating mass, giving you more acceleration. The electrical side
of things was just as efficient before as it is now.

Cheers Dre

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Dre - 22 Jun 2007 00:41 GMT

>>> >> >> : > anyone know whats involved in the conversion?
>>> >> >> :
[quoted text clipped - 167 lines]
>
> Cheers Dre

Btw, *the* biggest improvement you can make to the electrical side of things
in any electric RC is to either direct solder all of the power wires or run
some high quality high power plugs, such as Deans Ultras. These can make a
big difference to electrical performance as the standard bullet and tamiya
plugs are quite frankly complete and utter crap :)

Cheers Dre

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Richard - 22 Jun 2007 06:40 GMT

> > With all due respect, I find that what you are saying about shortening the
> > wires and getting more runtime and more power to be absolute crap. If
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> >
> > Cheers Dre

> Btw, *the* biggest improvement you can make to the electrical side of things
> in any electric RC is to either direct solder all of the power wires or run
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Cheers Dre

Sorry Dre, One of the two above comments contradicts the other. I'm sure you
can explain it to me since you can obviously measure the difference in
performance gain/loss between running Deans connectors and Tamiya connectors
but you cant measure the difference between 80+ cm's (or more since more
cable equals higher resistance and higher resistance it better than less) of
wires and 20 cm's of wires.

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Dre - 22 Jun 2007 06:59 GMT

>> > With all due respect, I find that what you are saying about shortening
> the
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
> of
> wires and 20 cm's of wires.

Wheres the contradiction?

Okay, using the Tamiya/bullet plugs you loose performance due to their
massive resistance, they are a huge bottleneck in your electrical system.
(this can however give you more runtime)

If you use Deans plugs you gain performance due to the fact that they have
less resistance, ie you are removing the bottleneck in the system
(bottleneck between batteries to esc and bottleneck between esc to motor)

The main power wires however are no where near their limit so even using
20cm wires as opposed to 5cm wires isn't going to give you any gains.
They aren't a bottleneck like the plugs are.

If however the main power wires were say half their thickness *and* getting
warm, then yes, you are losing performance.

Have your main power wires ever gotten warm due to the current flowing
inside them?? nope, they are only getting warm due to the heat around them
like the motor (my e-zilla has the motor wires running over the motors for
example)

You have to remember, you aren't running 80cm between units, you are running
shorter lengths between units (esc, motor, batteries) and I'd be quite happy
to run 80cm of wet noodle from my batteries to my esc, another 80cm from the
esc to the motor because I wouldn't notice any difference when driving the
thing. Be a spaghetti monster though!

The gains/loses are so small you need instruments to measure them...

Cheers Dre

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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / June 2007

ezilla to accept ladder packs