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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / January 2004OS CV-15 engine NO COMPRESSION on pull start
I have an OS CV-15 with pull start that has no compression with the pull start system. I pulled the start system off of the motor and everything looks fine. I pulled the glow plug and the piston does not move up and down with every pull of the cord. The piston will move normally about every 4th or 5th pull. The engine is fine if you manually turn the flywheel, and the engine runs fine when it does start. I'm lost for ideas. George Tampa > I have an OS CV-15 with pull start that has no compression with the pull start > system. I pulled the start system off of the motor and everything looks fine. I [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > George > Tampa George, The one-way bearing in the pullstart is probably slipping on the motor shaft. Drill a hole in the centre of the plastic pullstart cover and then spray some electric motor cleaner into the hole to flush out the bearing. Cover the hole with some tape afterwards to keep dirt out. If it still won't turn the motor over after that you will probably have to start stripping down the motor a bit more to see if the pullstart itself is broken somewhere. Chris Bad one way bearing in the starter. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSS33&P=Z Its the #1 problem that pullstarts have. Ive only ever broken about 2 ropes, but maybe 5 oneways. > I have an OS CV-15 with pull start that has no compression with the pull start > system. I pulled the start system off of the motor and everything looks fine. I [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > George > Tampa Update...I cleaned tghe bearing as the first post suggested, and it worked for about 10 pulls. What causes these bearing to go bad? The local hobby shop said that you couldn't get the bearing seperate, but once again tower Hobbies saves the world. Thanks for the link > Update...I cleaned tghe bearing as the first post suggested, and it worked for > about 10 pulls. What causes these bearing to go bad? The local hobby shop said > that you couldn't get the bearing seperate, but once again tower Hobbies saves > the world. Thanks for the link The oil in the fuel causes the bearing to slip more than it should. Ideally the inside of the pullstart should be dry and so should the shaft that the one-way bearing sits on. You might find that the backplate seal on the engine or crankshaft seal (if present) are leaking and letting fuel/oil into the pull start. The nearest easily available correct oil for a one-way bearing is automatic transmission fluid, just a small drop after cleaning the bearing out with motor spray and letting it dry out first. When running nitro cars in the wet with a 2 speed gearbox the one way can slip more than usual... it gets hot, expands and then slips some more, etc, etc. vicious circle until you get no drive. A quick pitstop and douse the gearbox with a drop of nitro fuel will cool and re-lubricate the bearing letting it grip again until the next fuel stop. Chris I did replace the backplate gasket. After i cleaned the bearing, it worked for a little while until the engine was hot, then it stopped working again. I pulled the truck out today and it started first pull. Once again it worked until the engine got hot. Will the engine shut off once it is hot and the bearing decides to quit for the day? i have noticed that in the last 2 days, after about 2 tanks, the engine shuts off and the bearing quits. Is there a permanent fix for the pull system? George > I did replace the backplate gasket. After i cleaned the bearing, it worked for > a little while until the engine was hot, then it stopped working again. I [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > George If the engine is getting so hot it's quitting and won't restart then you're a bit lean on your mixture richen up the top end a tad especially if you're doing a lot of WOT runs with little time at lower speeds. If you're doing a lot of low speed running and the engine is overheating then cut a few more holes in the body or run it around a bit faster to get some air flowing past the head. As for a permanent fix for the pullstart there are two options open for any car: 1. Yank eliminator (replaces the pullstart with a hex shaped socket at the back of the engine so that you can start it with an electric drill) 2. Starter box, you sit the car ontop of these and pressing down causes a rubber flywheel to spin up and contact the engine flywheel starting the engine. Chris where can I get the yank eliminator? The bearing finally took a final crap..lol > where can I get the yank eliminator? The bearing finally took a final crap..lol I think that Tower should stock one, I've never had to buy one as all my nitro cars have used a starterbox. Also being in the UK I don't know the best places for you to buy them so I usually start at Tower and then do a Google for any other sites here's Towers offering: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSN77&P=7 I'm sure other people on here have their own suppliers maybe at better prices. Chris BTW, the yank eliminator uses its own one-way. But since its not mounted to the engine, it may last longer. Just be sure to wipe clean the shaft before you try to start. > > where can I get the yank eliminator? The bearing finally took a final > crap..lol [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.560 / Virus Database: 352 - Release Date: 08/01/2004 |
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