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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / January 2004



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Question about Liquid Masking Film

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Gary W. Gerfen - 24 Jan 2004 22:23 GMT
I'm posting this again because I didn't get any response the last
time.  If anyone can answer these questions I'd really appreciate it.

I have some questions about liquid masking that I'm hoping someone can
help me with.  I've got a couple of 3 oz jars of Hobbico Master Mask
and one 2 oz jar of Parma Liquid Mask.  I've recently found out
there's another one called Bob Dively Liquid Masking Film, though I
haven't yet found a shop in my area that carries it. (So. CA, Pasadena
area if anyone knows of a place).  Here are my questions:

1)  Is any one of these clearly superior to the others, either in
useablilty or economy?

2)  Since they're all water-based latex I figure that they can be
airbrushed on provided they're thinned properly and used with the
proper tip.  I'm using an Aztek A470 dual action and I have all the
available tips.  What's the recommended thinning ratio and spraying
pressure for each and which tip would likely work best?

3)  Can the design be drawn directly on the dried mask with either a
pen or fine point marker without bleeding through or into the paint
being sprayed on?

4)  If, when cutting a design where two lines come to a point, the cut
extends beyond the tip of the point on one or both sides, will the
paint bleed through the cut, or does the mask self-seal to some
extent.  Otherwise, does the cut need to resealed with another light
coat of mask?

5)  If the mask is self-sealing should the entire design be cut before
any paint is sprayed on?  Otherwise, it seems the paint would likely
hide the other lines to be cut, right?  Would the next section to be
peeled off need to be recut to avoid lifting the paint just sprayed?

5)  Any particular tips to applying, cutting or removing liquid mask
that anyone can impart to me?

Thanks,

Gary
Gary W. Gerfen - 27 Jan 2004 09:30 GMT
FWIW, I've been doing a little experimenting with the Hobbico Master
Mask.  The first thing I found is that you can't thin it with
Isopropyl Alcohol.  I tried mixing in about 25% alcohol and the latex
in the mask immediately curdled and became all lumpy.  So much for
that!  Next, I tried windshield washer fluid (Wal-Mart's Super Tech
Summer Formula) mixed again at about 1:4.  I couldn't detect any scent
of alcohol (or anything else I could identify, for that matter) and it
seems to work well.  Thinned to a consistency slightly heavier than
whole milk (maybe half and half?) it sprayed well at about 25 psi in
the Aztek with the yellow large coverage tip adjusted for maximum
flow.  Even when sprayed on fairly heavy it dried to a very thin coat,
so I applied about 5 coats drying them with a hair dryer in between.
I applied one more coat tonight and will let it dry overnight before I
draw the graphic pattern on it.  I also cut up some old 1 liter soda
bottles and sprayed them with the same number of coats and I'll use
these to practice on at first.  I used Windex (original formula) for
cleanup and it works great.  Even the paint that's started to skin
over in the jar comes right off.  I think on the next one, I'll try
thinning with Windex.

I'm still hoping someone can address the other questions in my
original post.  This is my first paint job with any kind of intricacy
in the design and I want it to turn out as good as possible.

Thanks,

Gary

>2)  Since they're all water-based latex I figure that they can be
>airbrushed on provided they're thinned properly and used with the
>proper tip.  I'm using an Aztek A470 dual action and I have all the
>available tips.  What's the recommended thinning ratio and spraying
>pressure for each and which tip would likely work best?
 
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