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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Land Models / January 2004Trinity Stock Motor Question....
Hi, Can someone please explain to me what the difference is between the Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Pro Motor and the Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Motor? I'm about to buy a 2wd buggy kit and can't see the difference between these two motors. Regards, Ish > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Ish Usually when you see the word "Pro" after the name on stock motors it simply means that the motor has been tuned and run on a dyno already. This is a plus for most amateur racers, as no break-in is needed and the brushes and springs have been custom-selected for them. Top-rank racers prefer to break in their own motors and usually have particular brush and spring combos for the specific track that they are running on that day. Below is an example of what Towerhobbies says about "pro" and regular Trinity motors: "COMMENTS: The difference between the Chameleon Pro and the Chameleon (TRIC44088) is that the Pro is dyno tuned (and therefore is broken in) and has better brushes and brush springs" HTH,  SignatureDirk (aka "!bungle") '96 LS650 (aka "Rhino") "Well, you may be a lover but you ain't no d-d-dancer" >> Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > This is a plus for most amateur racers, as no break-in is needed and > the brushes and springs have been custom-selected for them. Oh, yeah- I'd go ahead and get the Pro version... and if you're wondering, both versions are viewed as the same motor by the rulebooks. That is, a "pro" version of a "stock" motor is still legal in the "stock" class. (just to further screw up the use of the term "stock" in r/c!) SignatureDirk (aka "!bungle") '96 LS650 (aka "Rhino") "Well, you may be a lover but you ain't no d-d-dancer" > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Ish http://teamtrinity.com/motors/stock.asp handwound, trued, dynoed....seems to give more torque and RPM. On Trinity new motors there's a little yellow sticker on them with the specs. Read the labels at a hobbyshop >> Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >On Trinity new motors there's a little yellow sticker on them with the >specs. Read the labels at a hobbyshop All true except for one thing...NO stock motor is handwound, that would make it illegal for any sanctioned stock racing. But they CAN be hand BALANCED, by some strategic drilling on the armature laminations(& the Epic Binary actually uses epoxy balancing, but that's also illegal for sanctioned racing, as is its quad-magnet setup)....:) >Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > >Ish If this is your first attempt at r/c stuff, and you are going to use your buggy to mess around with, then there would be nothing wrong with the stock version. You'll be happy with it. The pro motors usually have better brushes in them, they are balanced, and usually the comm is trued. So yes... it's a 'better' motor. How much 'better' you need, is really up to you. But the softer brushes wear out quicker. For 'fun' you can enjoy either. For guys that are starting to race, the pro is a better choice. For guys that have been racing a while, it doesn't make too much difference, as they will be taking the thing apart, and tweeking it the way they want too... Just so you'll know, we've seen pro versions come out of the pack and show outstanding performance. Good enough so that you don't even want to mess with them. And of course, there are some that do not. The chances of you getting a 'hot' motor, are better in the pro catagory, however. Have fun.. Dan ---------------------------------------------- Now that food has replaced sex in my life, I can't even get into my own pants. > The chances of you getting a 'hot' motor, are better in the pro > catagory, however. Have fun.. Good points "Chuck". One of the thnigs that I have noticed that makes a huge difference while running stock motors is to have battery packs that are high voltage. Matched packs seem less important than top voltage. A pack with 1.18 or 1.19 volts per cell will perform way better with a stock motor than cells at 1.15 or 1.16. >> The chances of you getting a 'hot' motor, are better in the pro >> catagory, however. Have fun.. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >voltage. A pack with 1.18 or 1.19 volts per cell will perform way >better with a stock motor than cells at 1.15 or 1.16. If one is just interested in hacking around, I'd rather buy two packs of okay quality, as one expensive pack.. We run carpet oval, and I practice with older batteries, and race with fairly good ones. There is a difference, but it isn't like adding nitrous oxide, as some people think. Personally, I think it's more that the better packs have lower resistance, than because of the extra voltage. You'll rarely get beat by a lesser driver, that has killer packs.. By the way, if you got a line on 1.19v cells that you don't have to trade your first born child for...... let's talk!! If you're checking your cells, and discharging at 30A and getting 1.19, those are sweet!! Dan ---------------------------------------------- Now that food has replaced sex in my life, I can't even get into my own pants. Thanks for the help guys... Sorry about the stupid newbie question.... > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Ish > Sorry about the stupid newbie question.... There isn't such a thing as a stupid newbie question. |
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