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Paint thinner question

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Kevin Judd - 19 Aug 2005 16:23 GMT
Just getting back into model building after many years & new to using an
airbrush. I'm confused about what paint thinners to use with enamel
paints (Testor, Model Master). Are there different grades for airbrush
use, cleaning brushes, and general cleanup? I bought a small bottle of
Model Master airbrush thinner, which works great, but it's a little
expensive. I also got a cheap can of mineral spirits, which hardly works
at all. Is there something out there that's both effective and not too
expensive?

-Kevin
Stephen Tontoni - 19 Aug 2005 16:42 GMT
In article
<PPmNe.635147$cg1.271100@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,

> Just getting back into model building after many years & new to using an
> airbrush. I'm confused about what paint thinners to use with enamel
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> -Kevin

I use Floquil enamels and buy lacquer thinner in a gallon tin from the
hardware store. It works well for thinning as well as cleaning. I also
picked up a smaller container of xylene to experiment with; it was
equally effective at thinning. I didn't notice any great difference
between thinning floquils with lacquer thinner or with xylene.

FYI, lacquer thinner is pretty hot; you can glue plastic together with
it, all sorts of nasty stuff. When you thin your paint with it, there's
not enough to damage the plastic although I'm sure it helps the paint
bind.

my two cents --- Stephen Tontoni
Chek - 19 Aug 2005 18:21 GMT
> In article
> <PPmNe.635147$cg1.271100@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
>
> my two cents --- Stephen Tontoni

The main advantage of using lacquer thinner is that it makes
for a
nice low density paint-particle solution going through the
nozzle.
You can spray for hours (if you need to) without the needle
getting clogged.

The majority of the thinner will evaporate before it hits
the surface; the trick is to
get to know when it's just enough to hit the plastic surface
wet, then almost dry instantly.
DO NOT let the surface get wet, or it will start eating away
at it.

It's also a good medium in that you can 'overthin' the
paint, and lay on thon 'smoky'
colour layers, handy in these pre-shading days. A couple of
drops of clear varnish
(matt or gloss) added to the mix can help too.

Chek
Kevin Judd - 19 Aug 2005 21:19 GMT
>>In article
>><PPmNe.635147$cg1.271100@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
[quoted text clipped - 59 lines]
>
> Chek

Thanks for the tips! I'll give lacquer thinner a try next time.
-Kevin
Don Stauffer - 20 Aug 2005 15:07 GMT
>> The main advantage of using lacquer thinner is that it makes for a
>> nice low density paint-particle solution going through the nozzle.
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Thanks for the tips! I'll give lacquer thinner a try next time.
> -Kevin

I have had bad luck using lacquer thinner with Testors enamel.  The
pigment seems to want to clump up into small globs.  Tends to clog
nozzle and not flow as smoothly. It does seem to work with some other
brands of enamels, though.
Alan Dicey - 20 Aug 2005 11:12 GMT
> Just getting back into model building after many years & new to using an
> airbrush. I'm confused about what paint thinners to use with enamel
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> -Kevin

Kevin,

Well, you have opened up a can of worm here - and you thought it was
paint!  Two responses have already wandered off into the use of lacquer
thinners, which can work with some enamels but is not really an answer
to your question.

You can clean up with many more solvents than you can use for thinning -
thinner has to work properly with the paint chemistry, cleanup just
needs to carry it all away.  I airbrush enamels, and use white spirit
(which is called mineral spirits in the US, I believe) for cleaning
brushes and for most of my airbrush cleanup.  Final clean for airbrush
parts is in Badger airbrush cleaner, which is an aerosol can of xylene.
 It think it is important to clean the airbrush throughly after each
painting session.  Paintbrushes get a wash with detergent-and-water.

The safest answer *for thinning* is to use the manufacturers thinner
with each brand of paint.  That is the only way to be sure that the
paint chemistry is not upset.

Other solvents can work well, or can be a disaster,  the only way to be
sure is to experiment. I once tried thinning Revell enamels with white
spirit.  The resulting mixture took about three days to dry!

Apparantly Revell enamels are 'synthetic' enamels, and the chemistry is
not as simple as I am used to.  White spirit works for cleanup, but thin
with Revell Color Mix thinner.

I mostly use Humbrol and Xtracolour enamels in the airbrush, and have
found that both of these can be thinned successfully with white spirit
(the UK name for mineral spirits). Humbrol do make their own thinner,
but over the years I have never had any problems using white spirit.
But try it out for yourself!
Don Stauffer - 20 Aug 2005 15:02 GMT
> Just getting back into model building after many years & new to using an
> airbrush. I'm confused about what paint thinners to use with enamel
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> -Kevin

Yes, you can use different solvents.  I have yet to find a substitute
for the Testors thinner as far as actual airbrushing, so I buy the
Testors stuff.  BTW, it is available in half pint cans, that makes it
cheaper than the bottles. Some other concoctions work, but not as well
as the Testors thinner.

For cleanup and airbrush cleaning, I use hardware store paint thinner.

You will find if you use the Testors stuff for thinning only, it goes a
long ways.  A half pint lasts me at least a year, and I do a lot of
modeling.
Kevin Judd - 20 Aug 2005 16:40 GMT
>> Just getting back into model building after many years & new to using
>> an airbrush. I'm confused about what paint thinners to use with enamel
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> long ways.  A half pint lasts me at least a year, and I do a lot of
> modeling.

Hmmm... this question seems more complicated than I thought. It sounds
like matching Testors paint with Testors thinner would be the best
choice for applying paint, but to use the laqcuer thinner for cleaning.
I read elsewhere about one method for cleaning airbrushes by first
flushing out with mineral spirits, then cleaning with lacquer thinner.
It seems like this should work. My original concern was that the mineral
spirits wasn't cleaning the airbrush thoroughly enough, which was why I
was using/wasting my airbrush thinner for cleaning. Thanks again for all
the advice.
Stephen Tontoni - 20 Aug 2005 19:56 GMT
--snippage--
> Hmmm... this question seems more complicated than I thought. It sounds
> like matching Testors paint with Testors thinner would be the best
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> was using/wasting my airbrush thinner for cleaning. Thanks again for all
> the advice.

If you're referring to Testor's Model Master enamels, I've found that
they spray better with lacquer thinner than with any other thinner I
have tried. I do use Floquil military or railroad enamels, as well as
Aeromaster enamel (Floquil by everything but name) and lacquer thinner
is the best that I've used yet.

Again, I referred to this page before, but do check it out. The words of
the master, Ted Holowchuk:

http://www.ipms-seattle.org/tips/hints.htm

---Stephen Tontoni
Don Stauffer - 21 Aug 2005 17:08 GMT
> Hmmm... this question seems more complicated than I thought. It sounds
> like matching Testors paint with Testors thinner would be the best
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> was using/wasting my airbrush thinner for cleaning. Thanks again for all
> the advice.

I find paint thinner or turpentine cheaper than lacquer thinner, and it
does a better job if paint is not too hard. I only clean old airbrush
jars with lacquer thinner when paint has not been cleaned out well
enough and let sit. It does seem to disolve the hard stuff better than
paint thinner, but when I clean the brush after spraying (and for
cleaning actual brushes), the paint thinner seems to work better.
Peter W. - 20 Aug 2005 16:36 GMT
I use all sorts of thinners with all sorts of paints (and lots of
experimenting).

But I don't use Lacquer Thinner with Testors paints.  Also, each brand
of Lacquer Thinner has a slightly different formula - so unless someone
mentions a specific brand - you'll have to experiment yourself.  Most
of the time, Lacquer Thinner is too "hot" for styrene plastic.

I use Testors Thinner exclusively with Testors paints.  And your Hobby
Shop can order bigger quantities.  I buy mine in metal tins. It is much
cheaper than buying it in small bottles.

But for cleaning my airbrush (after painting), Lacquer thinner is the
best!

Peteski
 
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