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Model Forum / General / Models / October 2005How to stir acrylics?
How do you stir acrylics? I noticed that it is written on Tamiya : stir slowly and carefully. On Pactra there is nothing like that. I stir Pactra by shaking the little bottle and so far I guess it is OK. Nothing bad hapened to the paint. And it seemed stirred well enough to me. Can I shake Tamiya too, or should I really stir it slowly and carefully? Maciek Personal experience, having been a shaker in the past (ugh...), is that I had more problems getting the bottles open. Paint getting in the threads, or sticking to the "gasket." I jut use half a bamboo skewer and stir for about a half minute or so. I just take it as a zin moment. rich > How do you stir acrylics? > I noticed that it is written on Tamiya : stir slowly and carefully. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Maciek WARNING wil robinson!DO NOT use a bent out paper clip as a stirrer!,I have that maker of paint-citadel colour from england,the bottle has a flip lid,when I tried to take the paper clip,it got snagged on the flip lid & i lost almost a 1/4 of paint!! the bottle tipped over,just passing along good info.On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 12:32:58 +0200, "Rich" <me@someplace.net> wrote: >Personal experience, having been a shaker in the past (ugh...), is that I >had more problems getting the bottles open. Paint getting in the threads, [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >> >> Maciek I open the bottle, use a piece of sprue to stir the bottom of the bottle, then I put the lid on and shake and roll gently.....if u look at the bottom of the bottle u can usually see when all the particulate matter is back in solution. > I open the bottle, use a piece of sprue to stir the bottom of the > bottle, then I put the lid on and shake and roll gently.....if u look > at the bottom of the bottle u can usually see when all the particulate > matter is back in solution. Hi all I have a small electric motor driven thing to whip or oam hot milk from IKEA, costs Euro 1,-!!! Something like: http://www.mainsales.nl/data/toon.cfm?Foto=7524&Image=1 It normally runs on 2 AA batteries (3V), but I isolated 1 battery and now runs slower in 1 battery (1,5 V) I cut if the round springy whipper on the end and left an L-shaped hook on the end. Works like a charm on acrylics and all other paints, costs nearly nothing. HTH, cheers, Dennis And now with fewer mistakes! Hi all I have a small electric motor driven thing to whip or foam hot milk. Bought it from IKEA, costs Euro 1,-!!! Something like: http://www.mainsales.nl/data/toon.cfm?Foto=7524&Image=1 It normally runs on 2 AA batteries (3V), but I isolated 1 battery and now runs slower on 1 battery (1,5 V) I cut off the round springy whipper thing on the end and left an L-shaped hook on the end. Works like a charm on acrylics and all other paints, costs nearly nothing. HTH, cheers, Dennis >Personal experience, having been a shaker in the past (ugh...), is that I >had more problems getting the bottles open. Paint getting in the threads, >or sticking to the "gasket." I jut use half a bamboo skewer and stir for >about a half minute or so. I just take it as a zin moment. Amen. "Stirred, not shaken." 006 7/8 What happens is some paint will adhere to the underside of the cap. When you put the cap on the table this gob of paint flattens out and wicks up the sides and threads. When you put the cap back on the paint is smeared onto the bottle threads and forms an excellent seal. Not only will that make the bottle hard to open, it (subsequent coats of dried paint) will also prevent it from closeing properly and therefore cause solvent loss. One can ruin many a paint stock this way. >>Personal experience, having been a shaker in the past (ugh...), is that I >>had more problems getting the bottles open. Paint getting in the threads, [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > therefore cause solvent loss. One can ruin many a paint stock this > way. That's why I always wipe mine down with a paper towel prior to putting the lid back on...sometimes I wipe out the cap as well. I also just use the back end of my paint brush as a stir. If you use quality sable hair artist's brushes, the finish on the handle also allows then to shed paint (enamels, in my case) with just the wipe of a paper towel. Simple tricks that help.  Signature- Rufus Next time you are McDonalds pick up some of the used coffee stir sticks. Just remember not to use them on non plastic compatible paint. > How do you stir acrylics? > I noticed that it is written on Tamiya : stir slowly and carefully. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Maciek I put two BBs (as in BB gun) in each bottle or tin of enamel paint and shake after stirring them with a toothpick. I've also done this with acrylics and it works fine to mix everything up. BUT... the acrylics tend to foam up and produce tiny bubbles on the surface of the paint in the bottle. This sometimes affects the brushing smoothness. I've heard there are anti-foaming agents available that can be added but don't know specifically what these are. Anyone know anything about these anti-foaming agents? Thanks, Martin > Next time you are McDonalds pick up some of the used coffee stir sticks. > Just remember not to use them on non plastic compatible paint. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >> >> Maciek Truth of the matter is, don't trust yourself. If it's an important project, new paint is one of the cheapest investments you can make. I have at least thre bottles of every paint I could possibly use. I really like Vellejo because it's in a dropper bottle and has less of a chance to screw me up, but I still have a back-up. No matter how good you are at assembly, no matter how good the model molding, paint will bite you if you don't pay attention to it. For some odd reason, no matter what I do, Tamiya acrylics gum up for me after two models, so I add that in to the cost of the kit if I'm using Tamiya acrylics. Vellejo has yet to do this to me. I also shoot Dulcote straight from the can and get good results. YMMV. Claude Allen |
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