Model Forum / General / Models / October 2005

Alclad over Alclad primer or Mr. Surfacer and polish either one a bit
with micromesh. Unless the specific Alclad color calls for gloss black,
then use their gloss black base.

Trim as much of the clear carrier away as you can and apply like usual
over Alclad. You can use Polly scale clear gloss, satin or flat over
Alclad with minimal effect on the metallic look (the exceptions being
chrome, highly polised aluminum and stainlass steel).

Highyl polished aluminum with other aluminum shades for the duller areas.

Most likely silver doped so i'd use white aluminum or dull aluminum.

Doped, see above.

Various aluminum shades but not the highly polished.

Have you considered SNJ spray NMF?
I've had good luck with Testors as well.  Never used Alclad.
HTH,
Bruce

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Any surface imperfections will show through the metals. If you don't plan to
apply the metals to bare plastic, a first coat of anything will have to be
polished out. So, if you have to prime over any body work or decide to use
Alclad or SnJ, the primer and/or base coats will have to be polished out.

With Testors airbrushed metals, you would still have to polish out any
primed over body work but using Future on top of that saves you from
polishing out another base coat. I have built a couple doing it this way and
they turned out great. I also use another method which is a bit labor
intensive but I don't have to wait for anything to dry or cure before going
on to the next 'tint'.

As for decaling over Testor's, just make sure to use some kind of setting
solution or water *under* the decal to help placing them or you might not be
able to reposition them

Google for me here on rms for each technique and alt.binaries.model.scale
for the results. Or check here for the Hun I did using Future as a base
coat:
http://members.toast.net/toledoplasticmodelers/RC04_F-100.jpg

--
Chuck Ryan
Springfield OH

Around here, the preferred primer for Alclad is Tamiya black gloss
paint.  I prefer the Alclad if I want a really shiny finish.  This is
good for airliners.  Testors is fine for wartime subjects where finish
is not polished regularly.

The trimotors were not shiny at all.  I do trimotors with flat aluminum
paint.

Hi Ray, I too recently took my first trip into the NMF realm with a
1/72 Mig-21 F-13.  I got several different opinions on different
products - some more durable than others etc. etc.  This is what I
ended up doing and I was reasonably pleased with the ease of the
process and the end result.  I used testors metalizer with an airbrush.
One useful hint is USE IN A WELL VENTED AREA.  This stuff is very
noxious; more so than your typical enamel.  I had to take several
breaks and open windows during the process.  I primed the model with
flat grey enamel b/c the model did have some filler work to do and I
wanted to make sure it was done well enough.  After priming and
prepping, I gave it a good coat of future to make it smooth.  Then I
sprayed overall polished aluminum buffing metalizer.  I masked with
Parafilm-M (despite being advised that it would not adhere, it worked
pretty well and did not pull off the metalizer) and then did select
panels in magnesium buffing metalizer.  I buffed these panels until
they were very shiny and some of the undercoat of aluminum showed
through to tone down the contrast.  I also masked off a few areas and
did them in polished aluminum non-buffing metalizer for additional
contrast.  I did the engine exhaust area in steel buffing metalizer and
over sprayed the edge in burnt iron and jet exhaust buffing metalizers.
I then buffed this area heavily to blend the colors and give it a nice
shine.  All masking was done with Parafilm-M which worked well for me.
After painting was done, I gave another coat of future and put the
decals on with some setting solution.  I did some panel line washing
with artist oil paints and then sealed the whole deal with another coat
of future toned down just a bit with some Tamiya acrylic flat base.  I
am pleased with the finished product and it was relatively simply for a
first crack.  Good luck and do beware of the strong fumes. - Jack

I use Alclad. Period.

It's the best NMF I've found, regardless of the final finish you want. It
comes in several tints and shades and the final gloss or lack depends on
what type clear finish used (or not used) to complete the model.

Here's the best part. I use any lacquer based primer‹gloss black for very
bright finishes, but usually I use Mr. Surfacer 1000 thinned with Mr. Color
Thinner. Alclad dries in seconds and two light coats are always better than
one heavy one (as with any paint) and when it's dry, I can mask over it with
duct tape if that's what I want and it will NOT lift. The resulting
finish‹if my primer was polished out correctly‹will be smooth and decals
will lay down with no need of a gloss overcoat.

I've used just about any NMF on the market and this is the most "nearly"
fool-proof of the lot. SNJ metal finish is very good and with care can be
masked over but it's just a bit more sensitive. Almost anyone can use Alclad
and still get an acceptable natural metal finish.

And no, I don't work for Alclad. I just use it.

MB

Ray,
Visit the SnJ Model Products web site. snjmodelproducts.com
SnJ Spray Metal does not require primer. You can mask over it without
any problem or concern. You do not need to paint any other colors under
it as it is too opaque to matter.
Scott Bell, Owner
SnJ Model Products

I have had very satisfactory results with a mix of SNJ buffing powder,
Future and a touch of rubbing alcohol for NMF's. The Future gives it a nice
"sheen" and the mixture doesn't "clump up" like regular SNJ once it has been
opened.

http://www.percongrp.com/pelikan/aircraft/p51h_ms.htm

If Testors, no primer.  It needs to be applied directly to the bare
plastic, and will bite a bit because it is a laquer.  After you apply
it, try polishing the surface with fine or medium Scotchbrite...you'll
be amazed.

I find no real difference in the finish between using Metalizer from a
can or airbrush when using my Scotchbrite technique - just remember that
it's hotter stuff, and don't over-do your coats, if you use it.