Model Forum / General / Models / December 2005

    On models, It pays to use some form of primer that will show up any
imperfections in the finish so you can fill and sand them. This is
because the metal finish will certainly show up any imperfections you
don't fix.

    The primer coat finish will alter the finish of the metal put over it.
One of the more popular metal finishes recommends using a gloss black
primer coat before the metal finish.

    Definitely. I have found that varying the matt to gloss finish of the
undercoat will give variations in the sheen of the metal finish. Since
most operational natural metal finishes show some differences in panel
finish this was a good way to depict the difference on a model. Be
warned, most modellers will agree with me that a good natural metal
finish is the ultimate medlars challenge.

                            Bill Shuey

    Testors' Metalizers need to be applied to a perfectly smooth
glossy finish, preferably polished bare plastic.

I never prime them - spray them directly onto the bare plastic so they
can bite.

Then polish with a light Scotchbrite - you'll be amazed.

There are two schools of thought on this topic.

One says to spray onto the bare plastic....highly polished bare plastic; as
the metalizer will accentuate *every* surface imperfection, even revealing
those that escaped your eyes before.  Note that this also means one should
put some thought into how one fills the seams, as the texture of most filler
putties (even sanded smooth and polished) will render different results
under metalizers, than bare plastic.

Others say to prime the surface, to even everything out, and then polish the
primed surface to as smooth as finish as possible...and then polish, and
polish some more.

I can see it both ways.  I have never thought that mirror-perfect
"metalizer" finishes look real...no more real than over-hyped foil
finishes.  Under indoor lighting (as in most contests and exhibition
environments), these finishes look completely different than a natural
metal finish *outdoors*.

The best natural metal finishes I have ever seen on models, were ones in
which the artist did *not* strive for that mirror-smooth surface in the
preparation stage.  Real aircraft show scratches, scuffs, and even a grain,
in their natural metal panels.  The better models I have seen, have tried
to duplicate this by buffing individual panels on the models surface,
*before* adding the metallic paint, using something like 1200 grit (or
finer) paper.  Buff in one direction...alternating the direction on
adjacent panels.  One can even apply a thin wash over the metallic, to
later bring out this grain (in a subtle way).  When combined with slight
alterations in the metallic colors used (again, subtlety is the key),
realistic results can be approached.  The very best model I have ever
seen, using this technique, was at an IPMS Nationals years ago; on a
B-58 by the legendary Jamie Pye.  The model definitely did *not* have
a mirror-smooth surface under the metallic paints, as the aforementioned
buffed graininess was very apparent....and the model looked a whole lot
more realistic than any highly polished model...and definitely far more
realistic than *any* foil job you will ever see.

Remember...it is *not* the shininess that matters.  Look at any color photo
of a natural metal aircraft (or highly-chromed automobile).  Study it.
And then realize, that in printing that photo...*zero* metallic pigments
were used.  Look at paintings by your favorite aviation artist.  Notice that
the artist used *zero* metallic pigments.  It is all "tricks".  The same
philosophy can go into modeling as well.

I assume you are using the buffing type metalizers. You can apply them to
either a bare plastic  surface (not to wet so as not to allow the solvent to
attack the plastic) or to a primed surface. The primer is best if there are
possible blemishes that may be present as you can detect them and remove
them. To get the best polished finish you need an absolute smooth gloss
undersurface -- only properly applied gloss enamel will come close to this
without a whole lot of elbow grease. Highly reflective surfaces on models
don't look realistic as the reflectivity is out of scale. With Testors
Metalizer -- it doesn't take much sealer to dull them too much. The thing I
have noticed with unsealed Metalizer is that after a few years the surface
seems to tarnish to a very dull gray appearance. A better looking natural
metal finish can be had by rubbing SnJ aluminum powder over a gloss enamel
base but any sealer seems to make it go dead flat. The best polished natural
finish out there now, that I know of, is Alclad 2. It is smoother and
shinier than any of the others and the surface is much more durable. The
shine can be toned down, as desired, with a thin over coat of diluted
Metalizer sealer or diluted Future. The polished Alclad 2 needs the gloss
enamel undercoat to stick to since it has no binder in it -- only metal
particles and solvent.

Jim Bright