Model Forum / General / Models / January 2006

    That's probably the best way to go about it, making the outline
as close to the color of the surrounding area as possible.

I had to remake some decals for an F4-U Corsair. I scanned the top of
an Xtracrylix Gloss Sea blue and put a thick band of that colour
around the decals. Then I could cut them out without too much worry.
Stand back 2 feet and you can't see the join!

David
David Pennington
SBX Model Shop
http://www.sbxmodelshop.co.uk

Yep, kind of.  If the background is a reasonably common color, I make
the background for the decal that color. I don't worry about fine lines
when I do the art work- just ALL the background is that color.  My art
program allows any color background, and white lettering.

Then, after printing the decals, when I CUT out the decals, I try to cut
close to white areas.  This method works reasonably well.

One thing that you can do with most good paint programs is pick up a
color and set it as bankground color.  So you can paint a little sample
of the paint you will be using on a piece of plastic, then scan that
sample with your scanner. Open that as a seperate image from the art
creation image, pick up the color from the scanned sample and use it in
your design creation. It won't be perfect unless you are very good at
color matching, but again if you cut out reasonably close to the white,
it won't be too bad.

That'll work, if you can cut out the letters accurately enough.

The only other way to do it with an inkjet would be, instead of a thin
outline, use a solid background color that matches the paint on which the
decal will be applied.  When you cut them out, leave a bit of border; if you
matched the paint closely enough, the border won't be noticeable.

There's also an old technique that doesn't even use a printer:  Find some
dry-transfer lettering of the right size & style.  Paint the model gloss
white and let dry a few days.  Apply the lettering.  Paint the model in the
desired colors and let dry.  Use tape to pull off the lettering, exposing the
white paint underneath.  (You can also use this technique to create decals
with white decal film, using the same paint as on the model so that it
matches.)

Thanks for the advice. This should be interesting.

You might try the product offerred here:

    http://www.pulsar.gs/DECALS/a_Pages/1_MENU/1b_Overview/Overview.html

I have no personal experience with it, but it might do the job. If you do
try it out, please post the results, I'm sure I'm not the only one curious.

Rob