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How to Thin Model Master Enamel for my Air-Brush

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cyberborg 4000 - 21 Jan 2006 21:42 GMT
How much do I thin the Model Masters Enamel to use in my Air-Brush I
have the following paints I want to use.  RLM-02 and RLM-71 and RLM-62
and RLM-65. Would somebody please help me with what I have to do to
spray them.  

I've got the Badger #-350 bottom feed single action , external mix
Air-Brush.
Will this brush do a pretty good job of spraying all the paints I want
to spray.  Should I filter it thru anything at all and

Also what's the best way for Masking Off the wings and the fuselage for
when I do the Camouflage scheme.  I am rather new to the whole idea of
using the Air-Brush.  That's the reason for all my questions.

I really Hope you can help me here

 ...  Carl  ..........

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Francis X. Kranick, Jr. - 22 Jan 2006 02:15 GMT
> How much do I thin the Model Masters Enamel to use in my Air-Brush I
> have the following paints I want to use.  RLM-02 and RLM-71 and RLM-62
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Will this brush do a pretty good job of spraying all the paints I want
> to spray.  Should I filter it thru anything at all and

    No worries  - I've spent the last two decades using just this airbrush
and just that paint line.  It's easier than you think.
    Thin/reduce the paint as descibed on the MM paint thinner jar or the
paint bottle itself.  I like to overthin it by a little bit as well.
I'm not used to filtering it at all - I used to do this for PollyS
acrylics but haven't for any enamels or lacquers.  Thin the paint to the
consistency of milk.  A good way to estimate this is to actually get  a
half-ounce of milk in the Badger jar, shake it and see how it clings to
the sides of the jar.  You want the paint to behave similarly.

    What type of power will you use for the airbrush?  Can you regulate it
well?  Do tell...

> Also what's the best way for Masking Off the wings and the fuselage for
> when I do the Camouflage scheme.  I am rather new to the whole idea of
> using the Air-Brush.  That's the reason for all my questions.

    Again, no worries.  We've all been there.  What camo style are you
applying?  Hard-edged, soft-and-splotchy?  Hard-edge will benefit from
Tamiya masking tape (the best, in my opinion) but you can get perfectly
acceptable results with 3M blue painter's tape.
    If you're going for soft-and-splotchy or squiggles, you'll need to get
very acquainted with your 350 on paint delivery, air pressures, etc.

> I really Hope you can help me here
>
>   ...  Carl  ..........

    Give us a little more info on the air delivery system and we can go
from there.  Feel free to contact me offline if you wish.  I love the
350 and mine's served me since 1984...

Frank Kranick
Brian Hill - 22 Jan 2006 16:07 GMT
"Francis X. Kranick, Jr." <francisx1960@adelphia.net> wrote in message >
Thin the paint to the consistency of milk.

Yep. That's pretty much the ballpark rule for just about any sprayed finish.
Humidity and room temp are important too when trying to get the right
vescosity. Take for instance a real hot day and you over thin a little and
the thinner evaporates out of the finish too fast, cuasing finish problems,
orange peel etc.. It takes a little practice. Most models are fairly
forgiving because of the small suface areas.

B.H.
 
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