Are there ''dyes'' out there to put color on clear
parts?.WHOA!!!!,meaning,the colored part will still be
clear/transparent?.(there,woo)
Rufus - 24 Feb 2006 02:00 GMT
> Are there ''dyes'' out there to put color on clear
> parts?.WHOA!!!!,meaning,the colored part will still be
> clear/transparent?.(there,woo)
What I do is use Tamiya transparent acrylic paints - lightly airbrushed
onto the inside of the clear part. I use a very thin mixture applied
very lightly.
You can pratice on a clear vacformed package blister to get the
aplication right before you spray the part.

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- Rufus
Bill Shatzer - 24 Feb 2006 04:55 GMT
> Are there ''dyes'' out there to put color on clear
> parts?.WHOA!!!!,meaning,the colored part will still be
> clear/transparent?.(there,woo)
http://www.warweb.com/vallejo.html
The transparent colors starting with VAL 935. Best applied with an air
brush.
Testor's Model Master and Humbrol make transparent paints as well.
For small items like light lenses, Kristal Klear tinted with food coloring.
Cheers,
Ozmoddler - 24 Feb 2006 09:13 GMT
u can purchase clear colours in Acrylic for most tints,red,blue,
green,smoke etc the brand I use is tamiya,
best of luck
Damien.
Disco58 - 24 Feb 2006 19:41 GMT
Depending on what color you need/want, just put some food coloring into
Future and dip the parts. Just be careful as the food coloring is
concentrated enough to make strong colors very easily; you'd be amazed at
what one drop per ounce will do. And yes, in case you're wondering, it's
a cheap, easy way to make clear colors for other uses.
Greg Heilers - 25 Feb 2006 01:01 GMT
> Are there ''dyes'' out there to put color on clear
> parts?.WHOA!!!!,meaning,the colored part will still be
> clear/transparent?.(there,woo)
Others have mentioned the Future+food-coloring route, which
works well. But even *this* is not necessary, if you
are doing very small areas, such as lights. On small
parts, food-coloring+"your_favorite_white_glue" (I like
Sobo brand) works wonders.

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Bob Bush - 25 Feb 2006 15:28 GMT
Check out:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tinting.html
> Are there ''dyes'' out there to put color on clear
> parts?.WHOA!!!!,meaning,the colored part will still be
> clear/transparent?.(there,woo)
Disco58 - 25 Feb 2006 18:21 GMT
After all the replies, which are all good, the only thing that remains is
your sense of economics, ie, $2 for a 1/2oz bottle of Tamiya transparent
acrylic paint (one color), or $5 for a 32 oz bottle of Future/Krystal
Klear (same same, clear acrylic) and maybe 85 cents for a box of food
coloring (four colors to make whatever combination you can imagine). A
little quick math in my head says for $6 you can then whip up 64 of those
half ounce bottles.
jhbright - 25 Feb 2006 00:43 GMT
I think that the cost factor here is peanuts compared to getting the results
you want. The thing that I have found in airbrushing Tamiya transparent
acrylics is they loose a significant amount of translucency in the process.
This probably isn't a problem if you are covering a solid background but if
you are doing something like tinting windows it is. Diluted Future when
applied right with an airbrush adds virtually no opacity. As far as the
tinting for Future I have always used a few drops of gloss acrylic paint
that I have on hand and it works fine -- no need for food coloring. There
are always so many variables that you need to do a test shot with what ever
you use before you apply it to your model.
Jim Bright
> After all the replies, which are all good, the only thing that remains is
> your sense of economics, ie, $2 for a 1/2oz bottle of Tamiya transparent
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> little quick math in my head says for $6 you can then whip up 64 of those
> half ounce bottles.
Ozmoddler - 04 Mar 2006 10:00 GMT
People keep using and mentioning "FUTURE".well its obviously a
brand name for something.that isnt on my shopping ventures.so could
somebody tell me what it is , what it is used for .and its chemical
composition.so is it the universal .product ...........lol ?????
Rich - 04 Mar 2006 13:12 GMT
A very good, and frequent question. This seems to be the defacto bible on
the subject, and it will change your life:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
rich
> People keep using and mentioning "FUTURE".well its obviously a
> brand name for something.that isnt on my shopping ventures.so could
> somebody tell me what it is , what it is used for .and its chemical
> composition.so is it the universal .product ...........lol ?????
Sig - 04 Mar 2006 13:28 GMT
> People keep using and mentioning "FUTURE".well its obviously a
> brand name for something.that isnt on my shopping ventures.so could
> somebody tell me what it is , what it is used for .and its chemical
> composition.so is it the universal .product ...........lol ?????
erm....... here in the UK its called Johnson's Klear
HTH ...Simon :-)
Rufus - 05 Mar 2006 04:29 GMT
> People keep using and mentioning "FUTURE".well its obviously a
> brand name for something.that isnt on my shopping ventures.so could
> somebody tell me what it is , what it is used for .and its chemical
> composition.so is it the universal .product ...........lol ?????
I think it's called "Kleer" across the pond(s)...it's a floor wax.

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- Rufus
Mad-Modeller - 05 Mar 2006 07:23 GMT
> > People keep using and mentioning "FUTURE".well its obviously a
> > brand name for something.that isnt on my shopping ventures.so could
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> --
> - Rufus
Errm, actually it's a clear acrylic coating for floors. AFAIK, no 'wax'
is involved.
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
jhbright - 05 Mar 2006 05:52 GMT
>> > People keep using and mentioning "FUTURE".well its obviously a
>> > brand name for something.that isnt on my shopping ventures.so could
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
Absolutely no wax! I think that the general thinking is -- if it's for the
floor it's wax.
J. Bright
Rufus - 05 Mar 2006 18:28 GMT
>>>>People keep using and mentioning "FUTURE".well its obviously a
>>>>brand name for something.that isnt on my shopping ventures.so could
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> J. Bright
Yup...I think that's the generic reference for it. "Acrylic floor wax".

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- Rufus
frank - 25 Feb 2006 15:48 GMT
You can also use RIT dye.
teem - 25 Feb 2006 19:34 GMT
Thanks gents! These clear parts are for the navigation/position lights
for the EnterpriseNX01 the scott bakula star trek,alot of these are
teeny tiny blips,others arepart of the ships structure.Guess polar
lights couldnt dye them,I will go the transparent paint route,thanks
mucho again!.
>You can also use RIT dye.
Rich - 26 Feb 2006 18:21 GMT
> You can also use RIT dye.
Could you expand on this? Using the RIT dye is a new approach/ idea that I
have not seen before. Better describe what it is too for all the folks who
may not know.
r
Mustapha, P - 26 Feb 2006 18:50 GMT
>> You can also use RIT dye.
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> r
All I remember about Rit from making Rit dyed plaster of paris for dioramas
years ago is that the water has to be HOT for the dye to properly dissolve.
Frank
bluumule - 26 Feb 2006 20:20 GMT
I have had good luck using machinist layout dye. Dyechem I believe is
the name of the stuff. It is available in blue, green and red. I use
the green for windscreens on canopies. I scrouged mine from a machine
shop. I filled small paint bottles with each color they had. Cost me
a six pack of barley pop.
Mad Modeller - 27 Feb 2006 04:44 GMT
> >> You can also use RIT dye.
> >
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Frank
It still works once it has cooled. I had a jar for the longest time
that I used for a base colour on the scenery on the layout. I just kept
adding water to the mix. I never tried it on plastic so I can't say how
it would have behaved.
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
Mustapha, P - 27 Feb 2006 17:47 GMT
>> >> You can also use RIT dye.
>> >
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
Hmm. Well it was 30 years ago. Maybe I wasn't using enough to color the
plaster properly.
Frank
Mad Modeller - 28 Feb 2006 06:01 GMT
> >> >> You can also use RIT dye.
> >> >
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Frank
30 years? Perhaps they've changed the formula since then?
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
frank - 05 Mar 2006 18:57 GMT
Just mix the RIT dye according to directions. For clothing & stuff it's
supposed to be pretty hot. For tinting clear plastic parts, I let it
cool some. I usually dip a piece of scrap to make sure it's not too
hot. When the temp's OK, dip the part in for a minute or so, pull it
out & see if it's as dark as you want it. If not, dip it again & as
many times as needed. When you get it the shade you want, rinse it in
water & let it dry. It's done. I've done some canopies before as well
as tinting some 6" clear styrene domes for some Major Matt Mason
scratchbuilt space vehicles I've done. Just remember, it's easier to
make it darker if it's too light, but once it's too dark, it can't be
reversed.
PaPaPeng - 26 Feb 2006 21:39 GMT
>Are there ''dyes'' out there to put color on clear
>parts?.WHOA!!!!,meaning,the colored part will still be
>clear/transparent?.(there,woo)
At my neighborhood Dollar Store is a crafts section. There they have
transparent colored liquid plastic for "faking" stained glass craft
projects. You pour the stuff onto a clear plastic sheet cell marked
off by a plastic bead applied earlier over a pattern. I don't know
what thinner they use, probably water. Of course if you need a deeper
color just apply a few coats between drying each coat first. A bottle
is just only 99 cents.