Hi again folks.
I have some Squadron Green putty and I've used it before
on figure filling with good results. The thing I don't like about
it is how it's like 'Bisquick' bisquit dough when you don't use
enouph flour. Is there a way to make it more 'creamy' so
I can apply more like you would bathroom caulk around
a tub seem? I don't want to have to sand of every rivet
in obvious places.
>Is there a way to make it more 'creamy' so
> I can apply more like you would bathroom caulk around
> a tub seem?
Just mix it with Testors liquid cement (the kind from the glass bottle
with a brush that has the viscosity of water, not the one in the black
plastic bottle with the applicator tube). You can mix a little glue in or
a lot, and make it as easy to work with as you wish. Also, make sure you
knead the tube before you use it; sometimes it separates while it's
sitting on the shelf. Mix the glue and putty in a well-ventilated room to
avoid experiencing the '60s all over again.

Signature
Jess
Greg Heilers - 07 Mar 2006 04:30 GMT
>>Is there a way to make it more 'creamy' so
>> I can apply more like you would bathroom caulk around
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> sitting on the shelf. Mix the glue and putty in a well-ventilated room to
> avoid experiencing the '60s all over again.
Also....you can use Bondo (red) "Spot and Glazing Putty".
This is the *same* product as Testor's "red putty"
(both made by the RPM Company), and can be thinned with
Testor's Liquid Cement.

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Greg Heilers
Registered Linux user #328317 - SlackWare 10.2 (2.6.13)
AUS
.....
He gets it from your side of the family, you know. No monsters on my
side.
-- Homer Simpson
Treehouse of Horror II
DaveJr - 07 Mar 2006 05:09 GMT
> >>Is there a way to make it more 'creamy' so
> >> I can apply more like you would bathroom caulk around
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> (both made by the RPM Company), and can be thinned with
> Testor's Liquid Cement.
I have 'Ambroid' liquid weld. It's in the glass bottle with the
viscosity of water. Will that work?
Greg Heilers - 07 Mar 2006 05:52 GMT
>> >>Is there a way to make it more 'creamy' so
>> >> I can apply more like you would bathroom caulk around
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> I have 'Ambroid' liquid weld. It's in the glass bottle with the
> viscosity of water. Will that work?
I do not know...test it first. Years ago, I "tested" such
with Micro-Weld....and the result was a "sand and liquid"
solution. Definitely *not* compatible.
:o)

Signature
Greg Heilers
Registered Linux user #328317 - SlackWare 10.2 (2.6.13)
AUS
.....
He gets it from your side of the family, you know. No monsters on my
side.
-- Homer Simpson
Treehouse of Horror II
DaveJr - 09 Mar 2006 07:07 GMT
> >> >>Is there a way to make it more 'creamy' so
> >> >> I can apply more like you would bathroom caulk around
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
> with Micro-Weld....and the result was a "sand and liquid"
> solution. Definitely *not* compatible.
I tested it with Ambroid and I got similar results. Gritty grout
like stuff. Note to modelers...Ambroid liquid weld and Green
Squadron putty don't mix.
Stephen Tontoni - 07 Mar 2006 07:00 GMT
Green Stuff will thin with lacquer thinner, and it sets up nicely. No
need to use liquid glue to make it creamy.
That said, if you use thinned Green Stuff, put it on very sparingly; it
will attack the styrene more than regular Green Stuff will.
--- Tontoni
Wayne C. Morris - 07 Mar 2006 16:54 GMT
> >Is there a way to make it more 'creamy' so
> > I can apply more like you would bathroom caulk around
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> with a brush that has the viscosity of water, not the one in the black
> plastic bottle with the applicator tube).
Regular model cement will also work; it's basically just liquid cement with
some clear styrene dissolved in it to make it thicker.
> You can mix a little glue in or
> a lot, and make it as easy to work with as you wish. Also, make sure you
> knead the tube before you use it; sometimes it separates while it's
> sitting on the shelf. Mix the glue and putty in a well-ventilated room to
> avoid experiencing the '60s all over again.
Also note that the more you thin it, the more it'll shrink as it dries, so
you'll have to build it up in layers, letting each layer harden completely
before applying the next.
> Hi again folks.
> I have some Squadron Green putty and I've used it before
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> a tub seem? I don't want to have to sand of every rivet
> in obvious places.
Have you tried diluting it with thinner? I have some old Testors putty
tubes and when the putty starts to get dry I mix in a very tiny small
amount of Testors airbrush thinner and mix it somewhat like 5 minute
epoxy. That seems to do the trick, and the thinner evaporates pretty
quick. You may also try isopropyl alcohol - denatured for short. You
can get some at the drugstore, or if you want to get fancy, you can use
the Tamiya acrylic thinner which is the same thing with a different
scent.
Good luck,
Ray
Austin, TX
===
> Hi again folks.
> I have some Squadron Green putty and I've used it before
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> a tub seem? I don't want to have to sand of every rivet
> in obvious places.
I had grown very frustrated with Sq. green putty, so on the
recommendation of my local hobby shop owner I tried Tamiya putty. It's
world's better, and I would recommend you trying it if you can find it
somewhere.